23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
If you are talking about fungal-type diseases, you need to realize that they are the toughest of diseases to treat, whether you mind poisons or not. Also, the metallic carbonates are true chemicals, not placebos. They deter by making the environment not so hospitable for the spores, and they add nothing toxic to humans.
Buying harsher chemicals will probably be a waste of money. Not every productive remedy involves clobbering the problem with a sledge hammer.
Here are some of the products I refer to:
Previcur Flex (propamocarb, Bayer)
Tanos (fenamidone + cymoxanil, DuPont)
Ranman (cyazofamid, FMC)
Gavel (zoxamide + mancozeb, Dow AgroSciences).
These are claimed to have some curative properties against DM, that I wonder about.
Well, I got a few tomatoes before the late blight got them, but with all the rain in central PA, I have had a really hard time. Peppers just can't keep up with the rain and the onions almost rotted in the field. My beans are doing pretty well, but they were planted on the highest and droughtiest part of the garden. Maybe that helped? *shrug* About the only good thing about all the rain is that the lettuce hasn't bolted. Small favors, eh?
I agree. Way too many plants in one smallish container. A 2.5' diameter pot should grow one tomato or one or two cucumber plants only. And probably way too much water as well, depending on the drainage properties of the medium.
Do you have both male and female flowers? If you do and the fruit is aborting, you have a pollination problem. Yes, most likely due to the use of Sevin. No bees... no cucumbers.
The foliage in the picture you posted looks like plants at the end of their life span, unfortunately. More likely that than a disease or bug problem.
AinhoaNY wrote: " bought the Portuguese kale seeds distributed by Franchi of Italy. I bought them at Seeds of Italy This would be Galega de Folhas Lisas...which also reminded me of caldo gallego :-) http://www.growitalian.com/kale-galega-de-folhas-lisas-smooth-green-leaf-35-11/";
That actually looks pretty similar to the Italian broccoli 'Spigariello' which is grown for its leaves instead of the heads:
http://www.veggiegardeningtips.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/10/Leaf-Broccoli-Plant-Photo.jpg
I find that cuke plants have a shorter lifespan than most veggies so if you planted yours back in May or so they have already given their best and are now saying bye-bye. I get around this by planting cukes 3 times during the season, when the first ones bloom I plant set #2, when #2 blooms I plant set #3. Set Number 3 is now beginning to bud up while #2 leaves are turning yellow/brown and saying bye-bye with it's last cukes on the wane (Set #1 is long gone). Squash is similar in timing and planting.
As for the old soil, I don't use containers so that question is best left to someone who does.
I agree with vgkg -- cuke vines just give out after a while. I've been gardening a long time and it's always the same, lots of cukes in july then slowly the vines give out, turn yellow, then brown and stop producing. Staggered planting is the answer if you want cukes into the fall.
Well, that's plumb scary. Yeah, pumpkins are particularly ozone sensitive and resistance to damage will vary within a particular crop. Will be curious to see if the other varieties of pumpkin you have planted will exhibit the same response. If not, guess you'll know which ones to plant next year. Do you think the vines will hang in there long enough for the fruits to mature?
Yeah, as of yet they look like they will. Actually August 22nd is the maturity date from when I planted for this variety according to seed catalog but we had a wet, cool June so things got delayed a bit because of it so I'm guessing at least 2 weeks after that date until they are ready. I will try and get some updated pics posted and put them on a separate post as Ozone Damage.
I use lots of plastic mulch and leave it down if possible. the paths are permanent and stay down and just get more on top when they are holey. Most of the beds need to be replaced with fresh but I am trying to leave the cucurbit area and have that be potatoes and sweet potatoes next year without anything done. I use drip tape.
A lot of people think plastic mulch isn't organic but Jere Gettle uses it! I tend 22000 sq feet and need that mulch to be able to produce that much food and not spend 100 hours per week weeding.
There are biodegradable plastic mulches available but be aware that they often start to degrade before the season ends.
I agree of the importance of incorporating nutrients back into the soil. You can leave the plastic in place up to the time to renovate- I find it easier to pull up in the spring when vegetation has dried up and degraded a bit. It is just part of my farming routine that often takes less than 4 hours for me to accomplish and I lay (with tractor) over a mile of the stuff.
1. You can try to prevent it if you want.
2. Planting two varieties next to each other doesn't cause deformed fruit. Yes, they will cross pollinate but that doesn't affect this year's fruit, only the plants next year (if you save the seeds to plant next year). Deformed fruits goes along with number 3.
3. With planting in containers it can sometimes be difficult to provide adaquate water. Inconsitent watering is one reason for deformed cukes. Another cause is fertilizer related, which can also be a challenge to keep consistent in containers because the nutrients run out every time you water. Yet another is incomplete pollination. If the container is of the proper size and you provide the plants with the necessary water and nutrients then they shouldn't be stunted.
4. No reason to. Just pick them when you want to eat them.
Rodney
This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Tue, Aug 19, 14 at 19:01
The ones sold in grocery stores are commercail green house cucumbers and they are semi parthenocarpic.They develop seeds if pollinated. some varieties are Kalunga', 'Bellissma', 'Millagon', 'Discover', 'Marianna', 'Fitness', 'Aramon', 'Fidelio', 90-0048', 'E1828', 'Futurea',Bella and 'B-1157'. All were developed in Europe and probably descended from the Telegraph.
Here is a link that might be useful: English cucumber
Hi Dimitrig,
I found the following description from Johnny's website, which specifies a variety shrink-wrapped in plastic. It seems matching what you had in mind. Here is the link. I grew something like it one year and really liked it. But the seedling came from a nursery.
Dutch cucumbers such as Tyria are 14"-long, thin, spineless cucumbers usually grown in a greenhouse. Their thin skins contribute to their excellent eating quality, but cause them to dehydrate quickly. They are often found in supermarkets shrink-wrapped in plastic.
Here is a link that might be useful: Shrink-wrapped in plastic
The reason why is insufficient water and fertilizer and possibly too much competition from weeds.
They didn't self-seed.
Instead, the cloves you planted just plain failed to develop the multi-clove head you wanted because of the above reasons.
Thanks everyone. Going to be planting some spinach and lettuce this evening or tomorrow evening. I got seeds from a local hardware store yesterday, buy one get two free!
Carrots are Great tasting when planted now and harvested from TGing thru Feb. I find them much sweeter than summer carrots (Nanites variety). Just keep them well weeded and they can be used until the soil freezes up too hard. I also leave a few in the ground to regrow tops and bloom next spring for attracting beneficial insects.
Spinach is also good to plant now, after a brief fall picking it's very winter hardy and will give you another early picking next March.
Others goodies are collards, beets, kale, turnips, and broc & cabbage (both as transplants). For the first time I planted lettuce and peas this past week to see if they do well here in my Z-7 local.