23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Depends on what you planted it for, how you plan/planned to use it. Only for fresh eating, for canning or freezing or dehydrating?
If you like it but only want to eat it fresh then you might as well pull it and replant in the fall. That gives you the best fresh flavor without the bitterness.
If you planted as a green manure for soil benefits then turn it into the soil or toss it in the compost bin.
Dave
I wouldn't do seeds unless you have a way to bring the seedlings close to the light. They need to be no more than a couple inches from the bulbs. Given that, I'm not sure what value you're getting by putting them in a glass container. They need air circulation, which they wouldn't get in there, and it may end up too hot.
There is a forum called "Garden Junk". Some seriously creative people over there who might give you some ideas on what you can do with it (though you'll no doubt get one or two telling to you plant a fairy garden in it, LOL)
Personally, I'd use it as a terrarium for houseplants (after repairing the crack(s) first) rather than a greenhouse for vegetables.
As loribee2 said, veggies need a high amount of light. When people use flourescent lights they keep the bulbs only 1-2 inches away from the top of the plants. If the bulbs are any higher it leads to "leggy" plants. Good air circulation is a must to prevent damping off (fungus) problems. And it seems like watering the plants would be a bit of a pain. Plus, it just doesn't seem big enough to start many plants to me.
Rodney
Forget the 3 sisters idea. It doesn't work for many reasons that are discussed in the many previous threads here about it.
But yes, IF you can plant so that the okra section of the bed doesn't shade the melon section - depends on how your bed lays in relationship to the sun position it could work.
You'd still have the different water and nutrient needs of the plants to contend with so separate them as much as possible.
Dave
The drip rate is quite often. Faster than you might expect. I don't have a number but it is not a steady flow. A couple a second possibly.
The tape you purchased is rated at 40 gallons per hour per one hundred feet. Usual working pressure is 8-10 psi. If the pressure is higher it will put out more water. Max working pressure is 15 psi. At 10 psi each emitter will put out 0.30 gallon per hour. If the drip tape does not lay close to level the rate will vary.
I would suggest just getting a 10 psi regulator so you don't have to keep adjusting to get the flow right.
Here is a link that might be useful: Aqua-Traxx Drip Tape
Indescriminate spraying is never a recommended course of action. Know what is causing the damage first, then spray for that particular pest/fungus/disease. Or if you know for certain that a fungus/disease is prevalent in your area you can start a preventative spraying program.
In the case of your cucumbers, I'd bet that it's cucumber beetles transmitting bacterial wilt to your plants. Nothing you can do about the wilt once your plants have it but you can control the beetles. A search here will pull up a lot of info on them.
Rodney
And a third vote for completely normal in Red Russian.
I love this kale. If you leave a few plants to go to seed you will never need to sow it again. To get a new row I cut some old flower stems with the pods on and lay them along newly sown pea rows to keep the cats off the fresh earth. By the time the peas are finished and cut down (NOT pulled) there will be a row of Red Russian seedlings in their place using the nitrogen from the pea roots to get started in life. They just need thinning and there you go.
For years I planted a few store bought green onions in the back of a border just for the flowers. The underground parts were frequently different from year to year. Seems produce people sell a variety. The parts below ground are sometimes quite good to eat.
Gardenweb is good because of the people and they content they create. The layout, search engine, and relationship with the site owners is terrible IMO.
Some of the guys who like tropical fruits started their own forum due to lack or response to feedback from GW regarding this site. Waiting for the day that happens with vegetables :)
All right, I hate to do this but I do have a complaint (my previous comment wasn't meant as a complaint, it was a solution to an issue). My complaint is that entire threads are gone/missing. None of the other stuff that has been mentioned bothers me but the missing pages are frustrating. I was just reading a thread from 2002 on the Garden Experiments Forum about preventing fungus issues with corn meal. In that thread there were links to other GardenWeb discussions relevant to the topic and when I clicked those links it goes to a missing files page that says "Oops! Sorry, this page isn't available."
Rodney
Concur. With those varieties, the worst scenario is that the Silver Queen will cross pollinate with the Incredible and end up a bi-color. As lazy gardens stated field corn cross pollination will adversely affect sweet. Even worse are super sweets (SH2) which will have the consistency of rubber when cross pollinated with regular corn.
Technically, it probably is too late but if you have the right mindset that you probably won't get a lot of melons but want to experiment, I say go for it. If not, you could go for another crop that grows faster that you love just as much. I remember seeing a woman, on a garden show, who did plant her garden late because she had recently moved and she had a great garden. She lived in 5a or 5b. I believe she started right before July 1st. You never know, it might be a warmer fall. I planted a few things late last year because I had a similar situation as you did where an extra plot was abandoned. I got lots of zukes but the winter squashes just didn't make it in time. Still, it was a fun learning experience.
This is pretty common. Let them grow to nourish the crowns for next year's crop.
I get new shoots after heavy rains.