23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Indescriminate spraying is never a recommended course of action. Know what is causing the damage first, then spray for that particular pest/fungus/disease. Or if you know for certain that a fungus/disease is prevalent in your area you can start a preventative spraying program.
In the case of your cucumbers, I'd bet that it's cucumber beetles transmitting bacterial wilt to your plants. Nothing you can do about the wilt once your plants have it but you can control the beetles. A search here will pull up a lot of info on them.
Rodney
And a third vote for completely normal in Red Russian.
I love this kale. If you leave a few plants to go to seed you will never need to sow it again. To get a new row I cut some old flower stems with the pods on and lay them along newly sown pea rows to keep the cats off the fresh earth. By the time the peas are finished and cut down (NOT pulled) there will be a row of Red Russian seedlings in their place using the nitrogen from the pea roots to get started in life. They just need thinning and there you go.
For years I planted a few store bought green onions in the back of a border just for the flowers. The underground parts were frequently different from year to year. Seems produce people sell a variety. The parts below ground are sometimes quite good to eat.
Gardenweb is good because of the people and they content they create. The layout, search engine, and relationship with the site owners is terrible IMO.
Some of the guys who like tropical fruits started their own forum due to lack or response to feedback from GW regarding this site. Waiting for the day that happens with vegetables :)
All right, I hate to do this but I do have a complaint (my previous comment wasn't meant as a complaint, it was a solution to an issue). My complaint is that entire threads are gone/missing. None of the other stuff that has been mentioned bothers me but the missing pages are frustrating. I was just reading a thread from 2002 on the Garden Experiments Forum about preventing fungus issues with corn meal. In that thread there were links to other GardenWeb discussions relevant to the topic and when I clicked those links it goes to a missing files page that says "Oops! Sorry, this page isn't available."
Rodney
Concur. With those varieties, the worst scenario is that the Silver Queen will cross pollinate with the Incredible and end up a bi-color. As lazy gardens stated field corn cross pollination will adversely affect sweet. Even worse are super sweets (SH2) which will have the consistency of rubber when cross pollinated with regular corn.
Technically, it probably is too late but if you have the right mindset that you probably won't get a lot of melons but want to experiment, I say go for it. If not, you could go for another crop that grows faster that you love just as much. I remember seeing a woman, on a garden show, who did plant her garden late because she had recently moved and she had a great garden. She lived in 5a or 5b. I believe she started right before July 1st. You never know, it might be a warmer fall. I planted a few things late last year because I had a similar situation as you did where an extra plot was abandoned. I got lots of zukes but the winter squashes just didn't make it in time. Still, it was a fun learning experience.
This is essentially a duplicate post. Dave gave a good answer on your other one.
Rodney
Here is a link that might be useful: is corn a thirsty plant?!?!
Dave: If the OP is on the coast, there's no problem with lettuce, except maybe a couple times a year when the famed Santa Anas come. And we "shouldn't" see any more until Late Sept/Oct. I say shouldn't because this year we got some in the Spring, which is a rarity.
Kevin
Peppers have their share of pests...even the Tomato Hornworm will feast on it's fruit.
Holes can be a number of different beetle or caterpillar types.
In my experience - unless the plants are be severely compromised - I leave them alone. Except if I see hornworm evidence (frass on the leaves...[poop]). Then I must do seek and destroy - actually seek and give to the chickens - a real treat for them.
Is it possible you have moles? They dig tunnels under the soil and it can cause the roots of the beans to be exposed to air, and they die. You can gently press your foot close to the bottom of your plants, and can feel if there's too much give (meaning there's tunnels).
Not too late to plant more beans.
I don't know if there's a product for rabbits, but look at Shake Away. It's in pellet form, and is made from the urine of predators. We've used it successfully to repel Raccoons, and they make one for Deer.
We purchase it at a local Feed store, but it can be found on Amazon and other places.
Here is a link that might be useful: Shake Away
The drip rate is quite often. Faster than you might expect. I don't have a number but it is not a steady flow. A couple a second possibly.
The tape you purchased is rated at 40 gallons per hour per one hundred feet. Usual working pressure is 8-10 psi. If the pressure is higher it will put out more water. Max working pressure is 15 psi. At 10 psi each emitter will put out 0.30 gallon per hour. If the drip tape does not lay close to level the rate will vary.
I would suggest just getting a 10 psi regulator so you don't have to keep adjusting to get the flow right.
Here is a link that might be useful: Aqua-Traxx Drip Tape
that is about the rate. things will vary with line impedance (far emitters will drip a bit less), slope of terrain, and undetected leaks.