24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Menu at the top. "View" -> Zoom. Also reading glasses (which I use routinely).

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zzackey(8b GA)

Dan the print was 3 times smaller than normal. It has corrected itself now. Thaks to the others for the advice to correct it. If it happens again I will know what to do.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

It is a temp response with an element of moisture added. The leaves seal together to prevent transpiration of moisture in chilly temps.

Dave

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Miss_Moose (Winnipeg, Canda. Zone 2)

Thanks Dave

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

No need to toss it - yet. Many times they recover. The badly damaged leaves will likely die and fall off or you can remove them but watch for new growth and it should be normal in appearance. If not, then you can toss it.

On the other hand, since you already pruned it the production will be markedly reduced as Sweet n Neat is a very small determinant plant to begin with. So since it is so early in the season you might want to invest in an additional plant to get more fruit.

dave

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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

OP said "exactly what happened, came at the end of the day, lot of drooping plants."

Yep, environmental stress -- ran sort of water, even though have been very briefly.

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gumby_ct(CT it says Z5)

Until the seed sprouts I use a spray bottle to wet the surface. I use a little peroxide in the spray bottle to keep the damping off from killing the seedlings.

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slimiest_okra

I bottom water and cover with domes for 48 h before seeding anything. By that time, the evaporation/condensation has moistened the mix evenly.

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

The important thing about peas is that they don't like heat (I suspect you won't get too much heat in Seattle anyway), but they are freeze tolerant to 20F, which I suspect you don't get lot in the winter in your zone which, I believe, with regard to plant hardiness and winter survival, is the same as mine. (Everything else is different!) I plant my peas in November/December, and harvest in April. So yes, you definitely get another chance in the fall for peas. Yes, you COULD get a killer freeze, but it isn't likely, and the plants would be small then, so easy to protect. I used to live in Portland.

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balloonflower(5b Denver CO)

Since you mention cooler temps, you may want to look into some of the Russian varieties of tomatoes--from what I know, they tolerate and produce well at cooler temps.

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Aaron .

@rina_ Because they will overcrowd, The rest will go outside

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

How deep is that soil? It looks like there would have been room for much deeper soil in the tray so why so little?

Dave

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slimiest_okra

IME, the tricky part about starting any peas or brassicas indoors is that they are much less frost-tolerant than direct-seeded plants. Kale, one of the hardiest crops, will get zinged by even a light frost if you start it indoors and put it outside. Hardening off against wind and sun does not entirely help. You need to harden them to cold by exposing them to several cool nights (35 to 40 degrees F) in a row. Just something to think about for next year if you decide to go with transplants.

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Peter (6b SE NY)

The peas have started sprouting! Not like crazy, but I have a few sprouts peeking out. I got the trellis up today.

I put my brassicas I transplanted under cover at night. I also put out my artichokes, and have them under cover also. Got a lot going now! Garlic, Leeks, Onions, Peas, Broccoli, Cabbage, Potatoes, Beets and Lettuce all sown or transplanted.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Then yes, I'd say it is far too early to be seeing growth. Down here in Arkansas mine are just now kicking back into gear this past week - both the hard necks and the soft necks.

Dave

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glib(5.5)

in Michigan the hard necks are three inches tall. so it should be any day now. But it depends also on how late you planted them in Fall. The earlier they were planted, the earlier they emerge.

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grendelsdad

OK, I'll leave them be. Sorry -- I should not have used the word "dispose" ! I was not planning to harm them -- just wondering if there was a way to move them safely. But it seems not, so I will leave them in peace and hope one day they return the favor to my lettuce. :)

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

<and hope one day they return the favor to my lettuce. >

Welll, that might be expecting just a bit too much. :)

Dave

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Weeds are a fact of life in gardening. You'll have them either way. :) However wasting good, proven-to-be-productive soil would be awfully difficult for the gardener in me to do so yeah I definitely use it. As you move the soil many of the clumps of weeds should be easy to pick out and toss.

Dave

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Weeds are self-seeding, so if you do a decent job weeding this year, next year will probably be easier. If the seeds are getting blown in, putting in new soil isn't going to help in the long run. If you don't do decent weeding, it's going to end up filled with weeds as well. The weeds aren't a property of the soil. They've been added to it. If it works, use it.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Sure you can. No reason not to.

Dave

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gumby_ct(CT it says Z5)

I grow cukes up by tying a string (using jute twine) to the seedlings stem and running the string up to a crossbeam I have screwed to my bed frames. This holds even during the hurricane winds CT has at the end of the growing season when plants are loaded with their fruits.

It works so well I also tie up any other vines as well as tomatoes which can be heavy during Aug. & Sep. and works much better than those useless tomato cages.

I do use those cages for peppers and eggplants.

While any string or wire will work jute twine is compostable yet holds for the the growing season. Even if you don't compost the fall cleanup plants it makes cleanup easier since the plants can be quite twisted around the string. I would not use something you think can be re-used each year.

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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

I actually use those trifold tomato cages to trellis my container cucumbers. This one works perfectly in a large container for four to six plants.

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slimiest_okra

Thanks Dave. Good to know that BiotaMax has a positive reputation. It's something like $6 for a quarter-acre, so not too bad. I have limited garden area and would like to try minimizing the occurrence of Verticillium wilt in eggplants and peppers.

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

I believe that BiotaMax needs to be reapplied every week to thirty days, while RootShield suggests every 6-8 weeks. RS can also be applied in tank mixes with almost anything, including fungicides. That's extremely important for commercial applicators.

BM is not OMRI certified, RootShield is. That's also extremely important to certified commercial growers, not so much for back yard growers.

RS promotes soil borne disease protection as its primary purpose. It can be used on seeds, cuttings, in any kinds of growing medium including mist. It can be applied through fertigation and misting systems at the same time as soluble fertilizers.

I really don't think that the two products can be considered the same, so comparing the price alone doesn't make sense.

Click HERE for information about RootShield

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albert_135(Sunset 2 or 3)

Mexibelle(?) perhaps? A hybrid that looks like a common red bell pepper but develops ''hot'' when left on the bush.

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Miss_Moose (Winnipeg, Canda. Zone 2)

I dunno but that's pretty neat!

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rook81styles

jnj, I have clay soil, so probably retains moisture well, but I've read that seeds and seedlings need constantly moist soil. I know a less frequent deep watering encourages stronger root growth, but I thought that was once they're well-established. I watered Friday afternoon and am out of town until Tuesday evening, so I have a friend watering either this evening and tomorrow evening, or just once tomorrow afternoon. Supposed to get some rain Tuesday morning. Sounds like you think they'd be fine without water from Friday til Tuesday.

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rook81styles

Thanks again for the input vgkg. The info I got says the plots are rented 3/15 through 10/31 and that all plots will "be cleared of any and all debris/material by October 31st." It also says parks & rec is responsible for tilling at beginning & end of the growing season. Yeah, so that along with delaying the opening a couple weeks and not having water available due to a water line break, and then the 15x15 plots actually being more like 13.5x14, it's not a perfect situation, but my options are limited living in a townhouse.

Regarding carrots, I was planning have a total of nine 3' rows stagger-planted over a period of about 2 months, and then replant the rows throughout the summer as I harvest them. I guess I'll stick with that plan and just harvest all remaining on 10/31 Regardless of size. I'll also try to give my other fall crops a bit more time to mature by 10/31.

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