23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Robinsons, in England, who grow award winning onions as well as producing seeds for exhibition, heritage and general edible use, have been maintaining a 200 year old onion bed. I, myself, because of endemic white rot on my plot, have a raised bed area where I grow garlic, every year. While crop rotation is a precursor to plant health, it is only one strategy out of many and for some crops (most notably beans) a permanent trench system has been in use for centuries.
I also committed the cardinal sin of growing potatoes in the same place for 2 successive seasons (and am still waiting to be cast down into purgatory by the god of gardening). Go ahead, Bart - life is too short to get hung up on everything....if it works, great and if not, well then, a lesson learned....but who is harmed by your little experiment?
Baby rabbits can get through a 1" hole! I've watched them. Whatever you use, make sure it's less than 1" - I use 1/4" plastic coated metal from any hardware store and sink it into the soil 6" and up over the rest of the metal barriers to a height of about 2". Bunnies are tiny!
The following link takes you to a video where the webcajun shows the five stages of the pink eye purple hull peas. He has quite a few videos on growing, harvesting and canning them. I pick my peas beginning at the "Racing Stripe" stage and continuing until just turning all the way purple but still soft.
This post was edited by yolos on Tue, Jul 29, 14 at 21:10
Well heck, what happened to my link. here it is.
Here is a link that might be useful: When to Harvest PEPH peas
Our bird population is pretty healthy, although robins are generally seen more in January/February. I have plenty of other predators (lizards, skinks, garter snakes). I think this is probably one of those waves. The density I am seeing now is definitely an anomaly compared to the past. They are not swarming but the numbers I see are staggering, and these are just babies, I hate to imagine what it would look like if they all reached maturity.
The chickens are only going in 2 at a time when I can supervise, although if the grasshoppers they clean out everything, I may let them rummage some more. If I were to move and start a new garden, I would probably do the four paddocks for the chickens or a chicken moat around the garden.
Thanks @Peter1142 for the response. I didn't think it was related to sun stress due to the fact it has been raining for weeks. But it's totally possible, B/C when it is sunny.....boy, is it sunny. Very hot and humid over here. I did some additional research and found some photos of Thrip damage that looks like this. So it's one or the other I guess. I suppose in either case, the leaves are okay to eat? I hope so, my harvest is pretty modest. Thanks!
Well I'm not an authority on the matter, but my romaine had something similar going on, and you could see it was only on the outer leaves exposed to the sun in summer, the inner ones were normal. And it didn't happen to the lettuce that matured earlier.
I ate them all and lived to tell about it ;)
I wouldn't worry about it, just wash it well of course. You can't expect blemish free leaf crops....
I bought them many months ago, the leaves seam to have a powdery underneath. If the main plants cant be saved do I need to destroy all the runners also, I have so many and I was hoping to grow more for next years plants.
They have been well watered and some of the others that are starting share a bucket with healthy looking plants. I would like to be able to at least save the runners.
Chris
It sounds like a fungus...which is (probably) an opportunist due to stressed conditions. Treating with a fungicide and correcting dryness or wetness or whatever other environmental stress made them susceptible to the fungus in the first place.
However, that's a definite guess and please don't take it as authoritative.
Most of my tomatoes got septoria leaf spot after two days of cool rain a couple of weeks ago. The tomatoes are continuing to ripen, and the crop looks pretty good.
I'm trying Plum Regal paste tomato this year for its blight resistance. It had very little early blight and was growing like a champ until the septoria episode. The fruits are bigger than Romas and there are lots of them.
Yes, all of the above should be of some help. However, I occasionally remind people of a simple, effective treatment learned many years ago. As a furrow/planting hole is made to plant beans, carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, etc. (either young plants or seeds) toss in handfuls of regular granulated sugar and plant as usual.
For those with large gardens 40# bags of dried molasses can be substituted for granulated sugar. Available where horse feed is sold. This year we are trialing a dry molasses mix that has dried kale added. This is all that was available here. So far all plantings are healthy and repelling the RKN.
For plants that take a bit of time to mature it would be wise to scratch in a sugar top dressing halfway through the growing season.
There is still time in your zone to grow some other crops. Give this sugar method a try.
I dont believe so. Everything I've seen of blossom end rot shows the bottom of the fruit as being black and molding. This looks perfectly normal except up close it looks like its shriveling a little and when I felt for firmness it was soft. Soft as in it gives just a little
when I go back in a few days (my garden is at a friend's house) if it hasnt gotten any better or worse, I'll take a photo
Potatoes like it cool, dark, and moist. ..38ð With the storage you plan, they may or may not do some sprouting in January or February and if so, they need the sprouts broken off.
In the meantime, I prefer to leave them in the ground unless it is unduly wet.