24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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Peter (6b SE NY)

Well the only thing lost is a few zucchini seeds. Go for it if you want IMHO, if it doesn't work out plant some more. I found zucchini to be very cold tolerant for tender frost sensitive veggies. The more sensitive nightshade transplants are another story.

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Katie Gooding(8b, Coastal SC)

Thanks for the great advice everyone. Just as an update for anyone who might come across this, here's what happened so far:

A couple days after the frost incident I stuck a couple squash seeds in the ground next to the poor frost damaged one. The new seeds sprouted, but before true leaves emerged the original plant had put on a bunch of new growth and I decided to pull out the seedlings. Next to the transplanted squash was another squash seedling that also took damage, it now has true leaves so I think we are on the way with that one. The four tomatoes all ended up with a small amount of damage, but appear to have recovered, and are now flowering. The bush beans are another story...about half of them came back, but the other half are still struggling. I planted another batch of bush beans (succession planting every two weeks) and those are doing well, but a good deal of the frost bit ones have no leaves and are just sad stems. I don't think they are going to make it and I am debating pulling them out or some spinach to make room for the next set of beans this weekend.

Either way, I've learned a lot from this experience, and I'm definitely going to try to be patient next year with my frost date?

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Very few suppliers apparently and most are in Europe and UK. Unless you can find them available in a grocery store and plant those you'll most likely have to order them online from overseas and pay the high shipping costs. Ronnigers Potato Garden has several other blue/purple varieties but this late many of them are already sold out.

http://www.potatogarden.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PG&Category_Code=NSP

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purslanegarden(Zone 8)

Your ideas sound great. With such a big yard like yours, I could never limit myself just to that area you have, so kudos to you for not turning the entire place into a garden.

I would wonder if during this renovation, you might add in some kind of watering system? I currently don't see any thing about an automated system so I thought maybe you are doing it manually.

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gumby_ct(CT it says Z5)

While I do like the layout can you just border the perimeter with a 2ft bed all around? I think that will save some building materials.

I don't think you need to make the bed 3ft wide for the zucchini. The plant can bush outside the bed but be planted within a 2ft bed, me thinks.

I prefer to compost on the ground right next to my plants as the roots will extend outside of the beds in search of nutrients. But I just compost in one pile

Is that gravel you are using as mulch? The beds don't look that old in these pics.

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

The optimal size for a sprout is ½ to ¾ inch long...preferably green sprouted. If the spouts are put where they get moderate light when they are small, they develop sturdy green sprouts. This is not absolutely necessary, but is highly desirable.

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sujiwan_gw 6b MD/PA

Every garden center I've visited in PA and MD has them now, so I figured they could go in as early as cabbage and broccoli since sprouts require such a long growing season. I was surprised to read otherwise.

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weirdtrev

You can plant brussels sprouts in the spring and fall in cool climates. As mentioned the fall planted ones are better. Here are the recommended planting dates for MD: MD Planting Dates

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purslanegarden(Zone 8)

I was also going to say, plant something else.

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dbarron(z7_Arkansas)

I agree, asparagus is not a one year crop, ever!

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Peter - why does failure to germinate mean the mix has to be contaminated? They will germinate in garden dirt - not recommended of course but still possible - which is far more contaminated than any potting mix. Of course whether they would remain healthy is another matter.

Dave

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Peter (6b SE NY)

Most people keep their potting mix very moist prior to germination (some put greenhouses over the seeds to keep the soil wet even and the whole area humid) and the seeds germinate fine. For not a single seed to germinate out of all those different plantings, IMHO there has to be fungus already in the mix. While you could grow seeds in garden soil riddled with various damping off fungus by keeping the soil very dry, no reason to use soil riddled with damping off fungus, when sterile potting mix is easy to come by.... sure, if you keep your mix too wet, fungus is going to find its way in there.... eventually.

Of course, JMO. All the same though, you don't think it is good advice to get a fresh bag of potting mix, to increase his chances of success?

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

What size is this insect? It could be anything from a tiny leaf hopper to a katydid, going by that image.

The first rule is to ID an unknown critter. Much of the time, with the worst of the plant pests, the damage simply isn't obvious until too late. Scale insects, aphids, and leaf hoppers, for example, aren't plant chewers but instead suck plant juices in large amounts.

You'd be surprised at the people who don't think aphids are a problem because they don't see any holes or chewing damage.

To glean good information from us, you need to give us good information: your location, behavior of the insect, size, etc.

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alanismcg

planthopper

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Peter (6b SE NY)

Unless your neighbor is growing any, but they are all pretty niche varieties of squash.

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

I grow butternuts every year, and we eat a lot. So my compost pile routinely features butternut seedlings, and I've transplanted some of them to my bed. That's exactly the situation you're in The fruit I get are pretty butternutty, though maybe shaped a bit different.

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shermthewerm(8 PNW)

The raised bed on the left was put in in 2011 (I believe). The rest of the area (minus the new little plastic raised bed in the middle) was my front lawn, which I covered in cardboard and 5" of compost January 2014. May 2014, I cut 4" holes in the cardboard, removed the grass under where I'd cut,

planted corn in the holes, and recovered with the compost. The corn did great! Granted I only planted 12 plants, but an in-ground garden is possible over existing sod.

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formerly_creativeguy

My property is bounded on 2 sides with horse farms, both of which have token plow horses and some antique agricultural equipment... so the idea isn't as far-fetched as some I've heard! However, the sod is far more likely to be covered with broad-spectrum pale ale than herbicide... not that I encourage anyone to drink and till... but a man's gotta stay hydrated, right? Thanks all for the input. It is, as always, much appreciated!

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

Well, Rob....It's very yummy! And I will allow you to put that into your article! ;) Nancy

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ilovecucumbers Zone 6b, NE PA

I'm betting Rob is looking for quotes/anecdotes. Rob, do some research, then come back and ask for stories based on what you find. I'm growing asparagus for the first time this year and it's a nail-biter, I'm tellin' ya.

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Humsi(USDA 9b/10a Sunset 23 SoCal)

I have a 4x12 bed with 3 zukes and 2 yellow squash and it's full. I can't imagine squashing (haha) 16 plants in there.

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

I can't imagine having more than 1 zuk and 1 crookneck unless there is a VERY large family! One of each was fine for our family of 4, but now that we are only 2 we give away quite a lot! Nancy

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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

Yes. If they are put into a growing medium. There are no seeds which don't become plants. That's what seeds are for.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

<I only asked this because a soil expert and phd agronomist expert in irrigation just advised that this idea of building up a bed of organic matter was a bad Idea and would cause more problems than help especially with even water and the water available to plants after the large volume that this composed OM basically pure compost will be able to hold relative to a more even mix of mineral content and OM and to just till in the supplemental OM rather than build up layers. >

That is correct. Planting in a bed of pure compost can be problematic about water. You can always compensate for it with more water. How much of a problem it is often depends on how decomposed all that organic matter is. The more decomposed, the more humus in nature it is, the less the problem.

The difference with lasagna beds vs. straight organic matter is the inclusion of several layers of soil. That is required for an effective and productive lasagna bed to function well.

Dave

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ninjaninku

Thank you for the information I will work with incorporating probably a pre mix soil into the layers from a local soil company as well as possibly some of the local soil depending on how deep the homeowners want me to go and how I think that will affect the overall consistency looking a few years down the road when it is all composted in.

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

I topped my asparagus bed the last couple of years with leaves and got asparagus beetles. Most were still edible, but just didn't look right.

I was told to spread food grade salt on the bed to control weeds. I haven't tried it yet. But no leaves for me next year! Nancy

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teowok

Thanks for the help. The vine weed is not morning glory. I too get bugs that lay eggs but I can control that with Sevin. Last year I used Round Up before the gus came up and I don't think it had any effect on the gus yield. I'll just get more crowns.

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