24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Since your new bed can't possibly have any active soil micro-herd, no soil food web of bacteria, developed yet to convert the added organic fertilizer then no, you don't need to worry about any "burn" issues, a minor concern anyway.

Of course it won't do much for the plants either and that is the real issue. Until the soil food web has a chance to develop and that takes time and more time, the nutrients aren't available to the plants. You might want to do some research into how dry/granular organic fertilizers work (vs. liquid organics) and what you have to do to tide the plants over until the soil food web develops.

Dave

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rook81styles

Thanks for the info Dave. I'm not sure exactly what's in the soil, but this isn't a brand new garden plot. It's a 14x14 plot in a community garden, and I don't know what has been grown in that plot since it opened 2 years ago. I probably should've done a soil test before planting. Another gardener there told me that a couple had rented 3 plots in a row last year, including mine, but didn't tell me what was grown or added to the soil. If I see him again I'll ask him if he recalls what was there... though even that prob wouldn't be as good as a soil test.

Now that I think of it, was my terminology incorrect when I said I made a raised garden bed? It's just a 3x14 wide bed raised about 6" above the walking paths. It's not enclosed with boards or anything... Just sloping down to the paths on each side.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Hi Bob - check out the article linked below for all the details.

I have had good results using beneficial nems, specifically H. megidis as I prefer organic controls. But they have some availability issues depending on where you live. Other varieties are more available but testing shows, not quite as effective.

Dave

Wireworm Pest Management in Potatoes

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Persimmons(6b Southern MA)

I third Dave's advice. Stacking them will allow you space to grow 'deeper rooted' veggies, but I also agree with Nancy Jane and others that using them directly on the native soil will allow anything 'deeper rooted' the space to grow out.

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blueswimmer68

I have nine of these and love them. My oldest is four years old and looks as new as the one added in March. I do amend and dig the native soil underneath before filling them. I have had great success with tomatoes and peppers in my beds along with greens, edamame, cukes, garlic, and many more veggies and herbs. Sometimes the corner pieces could have been sanded better, making it a bit of a challenge to slide the boards in but overall they are easy to put together and sturdy.

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mekia02(USDA 7b/8a, NC)

Glib what do you mean it wont matter? Is that good or does it mean I need to wait because it is bad?

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glib(5.5)

for the bale method to work you need the straw to decompose. On decomposing, ammonia gases will be released. I would use the method myself, a neighbor grows huge cabbages this way, but I have no source for a lot of cheap straw bales.

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farmerdill

sure looks like it. try some Bt (Dipel)

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pd0xgard_

Yeah, I know, I was just being lazy. :)

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Hope you like lots of slicing cukes. IME Straight 8 is VERY prolific!

In addition to Rodney's suggestion above, there are also many less expensive sources for all those varieties other than Burpee. Just for future reference. :)

Dave

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

Looks like the pupa of one of the ladybug varieties. Remember your elementary school biology....egg, larva, pupa, adult?

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balloonflower(5b Denver CO)

I tried to move it to a jar--this was just a husk. The pattern did remind me of a ladybug larvae--I've just never seen the pupae stage.

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tsugajunkie z5 SE WI

I plant my Fortex pole bean seeds around the last week of May. Rarely later, but sometimes sooner if the soil has warmed.

tj

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beesneeds(zone 6)

I used to live in Racine, just south of Milwaukee. I had success planting in beans as early as the end of April to as late as Memorial day. It kind of depended on the beans- some drying beans take longer, some fresh beans are pretty fast.

There are a couple garden centers/nurseries in the area that sell good plants. There was a something and daughters on highway 32 just north of Racine- and a really nice place on highway K? Maybe it was G- just west of 94. I always skipped Milaegers because they were so darn expensive. Steins sometimes had good stuff, sometimes didn't.

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zillah2004

Thanks Carol , are you saying that those causing damage ?
Do I need to keep washing them ? Any other remedies if those are causing the damage

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

No, the aphids are not the pests that are chewing holes in the plants. Carol was simply identifying them for you.

Aphids damage plants by sucking the photosynthates (sap) from the plant. Aphids should be squished or knocked off the plants with a stream of water.

You've been given the possibilities for the chewing damage. It's your challenge to be a detective and find the culprits. Going out at night with a flashlight can be helpful.

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jujujojo_gw(6b 7a)

Posted by Raistlyn none (My Page) on Mon, Jul 8, 13 at 9:24

If you read the post of denninmi, it is believed that these are "easy" to grow ... hmm.

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thirunilakantam

Dandelions white and yellow grow here in mild tropics 400m altitude here in the Philippines.i tasted the leaves milder than mustard leaves. I eat raw mustard leaves.climate change caused little bit cooling here in the tropics of Asia.this favor the growth of temperate plants in the tropic at higher altitude.

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chaman(z7MD)

We are growing Sweet Potato slips little differently.Few sweet potatoes from this year's crop have started sprouting.We picked two of the potatoes with good sprouts and planted just one inch deep from the root end in a pot to see if the sprouts give good slips.

This post was edited by chaman on Tue, Oct 28, 14 at 18:22

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yolos - z 7b/8a Ga.

Farmerdill said " . If the slips get too big you can cut the slip into 6 inches pieces and plant each piece."

Do the roots grow from the bottom of the cut piece or from a leaf node. do you remove the leaves that are planted under the soil. My sweet potatoes have long vines that I want to cut and plant but I cannot find specifics about taking a long vine, cutting it up, and planting the pieces. Can someone help.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Just go to the person's member page (click on their name or type their name in the search) and if they have listed their email as available just click on it and message box opens. If they haven't approved making their email public you can't.

Dave

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bwood1982

Yeah I killed probably 25 of them on 10 plants. They left like a silk web under the leaves, and they were lime green I'd say. I'm kind of color blind so that doesn't help. The only pics of horn worms I found were big caterpillars. Whatever they are they sure showed up hungry.

I transplanted this early because the weather had been fantastic, 70-80 day and 55-60 night. The 20-30 mph winds had been the only deal.

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hotpickles

The bugs may have been some of the problem. When moving peppers from indoor lights to outdoor locations you must slowly get them used to "actual sunshine". The stronger rays burn the leaves quickly. Not to worry though new leaves will appear most likely. Next time when you transfer to out side keep them somewhat shaded and relay them out starting at 1 hour then move to 2 hours, then 3 hours, then try 5 hours. Be sure and keep them protected from strong winds unless you had fans on them when in the house. I start using fans in the house at least a month before transplanting to harden them off to the wind. I also put small stakes next to each plant and a twist tie attached to the stake to help protect the plant from breakage. I start my pepper in January and can't plant until June. When I plant they are providing pepper in two to three weeks. It's Great!

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