23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Yeah plus no way to reduce all the N either. But there is still time to replant.

What variety did you plant?

Until the seed sprouts I use a spray bottle to wet the surface. I use a little peroxide in the spray bottle to keep the damping off from killing the seedlings.

I bottom water and cover with domes for 48 h before seeding anything. By that time, the evaporation/condensation has moistened the mix evenly.

Try blanching romaine lettuce, then drizzle it with oil and soy sauce. The texture change is surprisingly good.

I second fava beans. The tips and young leaves can be eaten just like pea shoots. They also stand up well to brief sauteing.

The important thing about peas is that they don't like heat (I suspect you won't get too much heat in Seattle anyway), but they are freeze tolerant to 20F, which I suspect you don't get lot in the winter in your zone which, I believe, with regard to plant hardiness and winter survival, is the same as mine. (Everything else is different!) I plant my peas in November/December, and harvest in April. So yes, you definitely get another chance in the fall for peas. Yes, you COULD get a killer freeze, but it isn't likely, and the plants would be small then, so easy to protect. I used to live in Portland.

Since you mention cooler temps, you may want to look into some of the Russian varieties of tomatoes--from what I know, they tolerate and produce well at cooler temps.

@rina_ Because they will overcrowd, The rest will go outside

How deep is that soil? It looks like there would have been room for much deeper soil in the tray so why so little?

Dave

IME, the tricky part about starting any peas or brassicas indoors is that they are much less frost-tolerant than direct-seeded plants. Kale, one of the hardiest crops, will get zinged by even a light frost if you start it indoors and put it outside. Hardening off against wind and sun does not entirely help. You need to harden them to cold by exposing them to several cool nights (35 to 40 degrees F) in a row. Just something to think about for next year if you decide to go with transplants.

The peas have started sprouting! Not like crazy, but I have a few sprouts peeking out. I got the trellis up today.

I put my brassicas I transplanted under cover at night. I also put out my artichokes, and have them under cover also. Got a lot going now! Garlic, Leeks, Onions, Peas, Broccoli, Cabbage, Potatoes, Beets and Lettuce all sown or transplanted.

Then yes, I'd say it is far too early to be seeing growth. Down here in Arkansas mine are just now kicking back into gear this past week - both the hard necks and the soft necks.

Dave

in Michigan the hard necks are three inches tall. so it should be any day now. But it depends also on how late you planted them in Fall. The earlier they were planted, the earlier they emerge.

OK, I'll leave them be. Sorry -- I should not have used the word "dispose" ! I was not planning to harm them -- just wondering if there was a way to move them safely. But it seems not, so I will leave them in peace and hope one day they return the favor to my lettuce. :)

<and hope one day they return the favor to my lettuce. >

Welll, that might be expecting just a bit too much. :)

Dave

I learned a lot of gardening from those old shows. They showed so much down to earth gardening. I would love to see them again. They are so much better than the new shows.

I hope someone out there has a bunch of old recordings that will end up on YouTube for all who have interest can benefit. I found two of my fathers old recordings. I'm going to try to post them on YouTube somehow. Stay tuned.

you can use ctrl + or - to adjust the size

Menu at the top. "View" -> Zoom. Also reading glasses (which I use routinely).

You might consider a greenhouse location for a later date if you will start your own seeds.

Oh and plan room for flowers to help attract the need pollinators (either inside or outside of the fenced area.

My advice would be to create a walkway all around the inner perimeter of the fence. It's hard not to think about the fence as great trellis space, and to sacrifice all that square footage, but it is much easier to keep the critters out when there is a 'DMZ' separating them from tasty nibbles than when they can see/smell/taste tasty nibbles just inside the fence.

For deer, make the fence taller than you think it needs to be.

For rabbits, make sure it's made of metal.

For groundhogs, leave the top floppy so they can't climb over it, and either bury the bottom or bend the bottom outward so they can't dig under it.

~emmers (formerly of NJ)

I grow cukes up by tying a string (using jute twine) to the seedlings stem and running the string up to a crossbeam I have screwed to my bed frames. This holds even during the hurricane winds CT has at the end of the growing season when plants are loaded with their fruits.

It works so well I also tie up any other vines as well as tomatoes which can be heavy during Aug. & Sep. and works much better than those useless tomato cages.

I do use those cages for peppers and eggplants.

While any string or wire will work jute twine is compostable yet holds for the the growing season. Even if you don't compost the fall cleanup plants it makes cleanup easier since the plants can be quite twisted around the string. I would not use something you think can be re-used each year.

I actually use those trifold tomato cages to trellis my container cucumbers. This one works perfectly in a large container for four to six plants.

Thanks Dave. Good to know that BiotaMax has a positive reputation. It's something like $6 for a quarter-acre, so not too bad. I have limited garden area and would like to try minimizing the occurrence of Verticillium wilt in eggplants and peppers.

I believe that BiotaMax needs to be reapplied every week to thirty days, while RootShield suggests every 6-8 weeks. RS can also be applied in tank mixes with almost anything, including fungicides. That's extremely important for commercial applicators.

BM is not OMRI certified, RootShield is. That's also extremely important to certified commercial growers, not so much for back yard growers.

RS promotes soil borne disease protection as its primary purpose. It can be used on seeds, cuttings, in any kinds of growing medium including mist. It can be applied through fertigation and misting systems at the same time as soluble fertilizers.

I really don't think that the two products can be considered the same, so comparing the price alone doesn't make sense.

Click HERE for information about RootShield