23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yeah plus no way to reduce all the N either. But there is still time to replant.

    Bookmark   April 5, 2015 at 7:33PM
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slimiest_okra

What variety did you plant?

    Bookmark   14 hours ago
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gumby_ct(CT it says Z5)

Until the seed sprouts I use a spray bottle to wet the surface. I use a little peroxide in the spray bottle to keep the damping off from killing the seedlings.

    Bookmark   last Saturday at 2:34PM
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slimiest_okra

I bottom water and cover with domes for 48 h before seeding anything. By that time, the evaporation/condensation has moistened the mix evenly.

    Bookmark   15 hours ago
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pennypond USDA 10 Sunset 21 CA

Try blanching romaine lettuce, then drizzle it with oil and soy sauce. The texture change is surprisingly good.

    Bookmark   Yesterday at 12:27AM
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slimiest_okra

I second fava beans. The tips and young leaves can be eaten just like pea shoots. They also stand up well to brief sauteing.

    Bookmark   15 hours ago
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

The important thing about peas is that they don't like heat (I suspect you won't get too much heat in Seattle anyway), but they are freeze tolerant to 20F, which I suspect you don't get lot in the winter in your zone which, I believe, with regard to plant hardiness and winter survival, is the same as mine. (Everything else is different!) I plant my peas in November/December, and harvest in April. So yes, you definitely get another chance in the fall for peas. Yes, you COULD get a killer freeze, but it isn't likely, and the plants would be small then, so easy to protect. I used to live in Portland.

    Bookmark   20 hours ago
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balloonflower(5b Denver CO, HZ 5-6, Sunset 2b)

Since you mention cooler temps, you may want to look into some of the Russian varieties of tomatoes--from what I know, they tolerate and produce well at cooler temps.

    Bookmark   16 hours ago
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Aaron .

@rina_ Because they will overcrowd, The rest will go outside

    Bookmark   16 hours ago
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

How deep is that soil? It looks like there would have been room for much deeper soil in the tray so why so little?

Dave

    Bookmark   16 hours ago
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slimiest_okra

IME, the tricky part about starting any peas or brassicas indoors is that they are much less frost-tolerant than direct-seeded plants. Kale, one of the hardiest crops, will get zinged by even a light frost if you start it indoors and put it outside. Hardening off against wind and sun does not entirely help. You need to harden them to cold by exposing them to several cool nights (35 to 40 degrees F) in a row. Just something to think about for next year if you decide to go with transplants.

    Bookmark   last Friday at 8:36PM
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Peter (6b SE NY)

The peas have started sprouting! Not like crazy, but I have a few sprouts peeking out. I got the trellis up today.

I put my brassicas I transplanted under cover at night. I also put out my artichokes, and have them under cover also. Got a lot going now! Garlic, Leeks, Onions, Peas, Broccoli, Cabbage, Potatoes, Beets and Lettuce all sown or transplanted.

    Bookmark   16 hours ago
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Then yes, I'd say it is far too early to be seeing growth. Down here in Arkansas mine are just now kicking back into gear this past week - both the hard necks and the soft necks.

Dave

    Bookmark   17 hours ago
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glib(5.5)

in Michigan the hard necks are three inches tall. so it should be any day now. But it depends also on how late you planted them in Fall. The earlier they were planted, the earlier they emerge.

    Bookmark   16 hours ago
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grendelsdad

OK, I'll leave them be. Sorry -- I should not have used the word "dispose" ! I was not planning to harm them -- just wondering if there was a way to move them safely. But it seems not, so I will leave them in peace and hope one day they return the favor to my lettuce. :)

    Bookmark   17 hours ago
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

<and hope one day they return the favor to my lettuce. >

Welll, that might be expecting just a bit too much. :)

Dave

    Bookmark   17 hours ago
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kswildflower

I learned a lot of gardening from those old shows. They showed so much down to earth gardening. I would love to see them again. They are so much better than the new shows.

1 Like    Bookmark   Thanked by joep13    last Friday at 7:38PM
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joep13

I hope someone out there has a bunch of old recordings that will end up on YouTube for all who have interest can benefit. I found two of my fathers old recordings. I'm going to try to post them on YouTube somehow. Stay tuned.

    Bookmark   17 hours ago
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Weeds are a fact of life in gardening. You'll have them either way. :) However wasting good, proven-to-be-productive soil would be awfully difficult for the gardener in me to do so yeah I definitely use it. As you move the soil many of the clumps of weeds should be easy to pick out and toss.

Dave

    Bookmark   21 hours ago
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Weeds are self-seeding, so if you do a decent job weeding this year, next year will probably be easier. If the seeds are getting blown in, putting in new soil isn't going to help in the long run. If you don't do decent weeding, it's going to end up filled with weeds as well. The weeds aren't a property of the soil. They've been added to it. If it works, use it.

    Bookmark   20 hours ago
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jctsai8b(8B)

you can use ctrl + or - to adjust the size

    Bookmark   20 hours ago
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Menu at the top. "View" -> Zoom. Also reading glasses (which I use routinely).

    Bookmark   20 hours ago
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Sure you can. No reason not to.

Dave

    Bookmark   21 hours ago
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gumby_ct(CT it says Z5)

You might consider a greenhouse location for a later date if you will start your own seeds.

Oh and plan room for flowers to help attract the need pollinators (either inside or outside of the fenced area.

    Bookmark   Yesterday at 9:09AM
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emmers_m(9a/Sunset 7 N Cal)

My advice would be to create a walkway all around the inner perimeter of the fence. It's hard not to think about the fence as great trellis space, and to sacrifice all that square footage, but it is much easier to keep the critters out when there is a 'DMZ' separating them from tasty nibbles than when they can see/smell/taste tasty nibbles just inside the fence.

For deer, make the fence taller than you think it needs to be.

For rabbits, make sure it's made of metal.

For groundhogs, leave the top floppy so they can't climb over it, and either bury the bottom or bend the bottom outward so they can't dig under it.

~emmers (formerly of NJ)

    Bookmark   Yesterday at 10:13AM
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gumby_ct(CT it says Z5)

I grow cukes up by tying a string (using jute twine) to the seedlings stem and running the string up to a crossbeam I have screwed to my bed frames. This holds even during the hurricane winds CT has at the end of the growing season when plants are loaded with their fruits.

It works so well I also tie up any other vines as well as tomatoes which can be heavy during Aug. & Sep. and works much better than those useless tomato cages.

I do use those cages for peppers and eggplants.

While any string or wire will work jute twine is compostable yet holds for the the growing season. Even if you don't compost the fall cleanup plants it makes cleanup easier since the plants can be quite twisted around the string. I would not use something you think can be re-used each year.

    Bookmark   Yesterday at 6:58AM
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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

I actually use those trifold tomato cages to trellis my container cucumbers. This one works perfectly in a large container for four to six plants.

    Bookmark   Yesterday at 8:31AM
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slimiest_okra

Thanks Dave. Good to know that BiotaMax has a positive reputation. It's something like $6 for a quarter-acre, so not too bad. I have limited garden area and would like to try minimizing the occurrence of Verticillium wilt in eggplants and peppers.

    Bookmark   last Saturday at 8:41PM
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

I believe that BiotaMax needs to be reapplied every week to thirty days, while RootShield suggests every 6-8 weeks. RS can also be applied in tank mixes with almost anything, including fungicides. That's extremely important for commercial applicators.

BM is not OMRI certified, RootShield is. That's also extremely important to certified commercial growers, not so much for back yard growers.

RS promotes soil borne disease protection as its primary purpose. It can be used on seeds, cuttings, in any kinds of growing medium including mist. It can be applied through fertigation and misting systems at the same time as soluble fertilizers.

I really don't think that the two products can be considered the same, so comparing the price alone doesn't make sense.

Click HERE for information about RootShield

    Bookmark   Yesterday at 6:40AM
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