24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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jagdjh

I've put some out the last two years. Midwest gardening, with the kids helping out. Might have to filter out a few videos of the kids though :). Just search Handyl710

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buckeyefaninfl(Z9 Wesley Chapel, FL)

I will put in my vote for Growing Your Greens. The guy's name is John Kohler and has inspired me to plant as much as possible.

Thanks for the other suggestions guys, I wil have to check them out.

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Help identifying an unknown vegetableCan you help me with identifying this vegetable?
Posted by green_go (Canada, Ontario, z 5a)(5A)
2 Comments
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

It's chayote.

Rodney

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green_go (Canada, Ontario, z 5a)(5A)

Thanks!

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carolb_w_fl(zone 9/10)

I thought pepper blossoms were self-pollinating, so crossing isn't a big problem unless you're growing different varieties near each other? I've saved seed from a number of open-pollinated varieties of peppers (mostly chiles) over the years & they all came true. Chile peppers are often open pollinated, & the pics look a lot like piquin/pequin peppers, tho there's a chance it may be a hybrid. You'll definitely get a pepper plant from the seeds & it could be a fun experiment...

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Agree that they could also be pequin. And while pepper blossoms are self pollinating they are also prone to crossing by insects. Some pepper seeds I got in a trade last year ended up being crossed.

If you have other peppers growing nearby then all you have to do to get pure seed is to bag some blossoms until the peppers start to form. At which point you can take the bags off and mark the peppers with yarn so you know what peppers to save seeds from. Little organza bags you can get at craft stores work well to prevent cross pollination. This is assuming the plant is open pollinated to begin with and isn't a hybrid.

Rodney

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A J(9A)

All of that information is freely available at your local county extension office. The layout is nice but information is tedious to input and your weather integration will likely be off. I don't think you add $15/year in value which is what you intend to charge people. Sounds harsh but if you're going to tell people to try out your beta version you should hear it now.

All that information could easily be inputted into a simple, offline spreadsheet that is free. Calculations, type of vegetables, crop rotations, weather days, etc could be already inputted and linked as well. Google spreadsheets will even email when a certain date occurs i.e. harvest, spray, check, frost day approaching, etc:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1IbCbxutPxqE9vIJV5jXNghPXQzu7rCtXY05oAH9nnA0/edit?pli=1

I'd scale back to just your region, integrate more with smartphone app, and get that right first. You would also know your own weather better as well.

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illiveggies

Thanks A J - appreciate your time to look and your feedback. The pricing was an old model, which I don't think will work out, as you rightly point out. My current interest in the tool is more as a means to capture the great information that people have in their spreadsheets and help draw intelligence from that for others (I am not looking to make some $). My sense is that the experienced gardeners have extensive knowledge about what to do, both instinctively and based on data over the years. Some of that is apparent in forums like this one, but the data that they have is less obvious.

The weather integration is an open question, and that is what I wanted to check with a broader data set. From the research that I have done, there are crop maturity models for grains based on degree-days, but not so much for vegetables. The local extensions do provide great information, and I have talked to master gardeners from my local extension and they have been great sources of advice, specially where pests are concerned.

Once again - thanks for you input!

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Thanks for the replies. I've got a garden weasel but since this tool has such small tines and unique look I figured it had to have some very specific job. It doesn't work in grass nor does it work on hard or even semi-hard ground (not that I really expected it too).

And I did find some more markings under the tool when I brushed away some dirt and rust. AT-200 C 5 -8 (or maybe it's 8- ). With the C, 5, and -8 off on their own. These haven't helped me either.

Rodney

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Gardevator! That's what it's called. It was damn near impossible to find much information about it but it was made by Ansan Tool and Manufacturing Company in Chicago, IL.

Earlier today I got some space cleared out in my garden for me to finally try using this tool on some freshly turned soil and it's awesome. Effortless to use and makes a smooth, uniformly textured seed bed in just mere moments. If anyone happens to come across one I highly recommend you get it.

Rodney

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Chris B(6a NY)

Ok - thank you. I've read about people saying to use it and others say it doesn't really matter. Since I have a small area that I'm growing the vetch, I'll give the inoculant a try.

Hopefully the shelf life is longer than one year, since I'll have 1 lb of vetch seeds and inoculant that treats 8 lbs.

Thanks again.

Chris

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Chris B(6a NY)

So my vetch has been growing since probably the third week in August and I'm confused as to why the sunnier spot is doing so poorly.

Also, is the vetch in the second picture far enough along?

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LoneJack Zn 6a, KC

It probably depends on how well your garlic bed drains. If the soil drains well the rain should not be a problem and the moisture will help the garlic to sprout and grow roots. If the soil drains poorly then it could cause cloves to rot before getting well established. But then again poorly draining soil may be problematic for the garlic period.

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Chris B(6a NY)

They will be in a 4'x6'x1' raised bed, so drainage is pretty good.

Thanks.

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I find that the spring Sugar snaps are more reliable than the fall ones.

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Peter (6b SE NY)

The peppers are still looking great. I love my Biscayne and Ace peppers. I will be eating fresh garden peppers (red ripe ones) for weeks after the last frost.

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Marianne W (zone 10A)

It has been 108 (with a low of about 87) at my house the last few days...basil germinated in 3 days, direct sown. I planted some zucchini on Monday too--maybe it will be up by tomorrow!

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LoneJack Zn 6a, KC

Thought I would report back on my results of this fall planting. The Boston Pickling Cukes began flowering Sept 6 and I started harvesting Gherkin sized cukes on Sept 19. They are still producing but the fruits are maturing much slower than they do in July from my spring planting. The plants are also starting to look pretty ragged and don't seem to care much for the cooler weather and looking at the current blossoms it looks like 90% or more are male with very few females currently coming on. I am going to do one more batch of pickles this weekend and then inspect again for female blossoms and if I don't see many I think I will pull the plants and put that bed to rest for the winter. I think Mid July will be the latest that I try to sow Cukes in the future.

The yellow squash plant didn't do much at all. It didn't get enough sun due to some shading from a cherry tomato plant and trees. The plant never got over about 1 ft tall and 2 ft across but the poor little thing still tried to put out a few mini squash that only got about 4" long.

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elisa_z5

Report on results of planting 72 day corn in late July -- I ended up with baby corn!!! Very interesting -- even the cob is tender and sweet.

Chinese food anyone?

It's delicious, so not a 100% fail.

But will plant newer seed next year, and hope for much better germination.

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

My last planting on July 6th was extremely robust and came in early with many stalks with 2 GOOD ears... better than average. This year a later planting might have made some fair corn.

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

As long as they didn't die because of disease you're fine. But if disease wiped them out then I'd remove what's left of the plants, not till them in.

Rodney

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sepulvd(zn8,WA)

No disease. Ok thanks guys

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yeah I suspected we were talking about a long ago application. That is the important info when it comes to eating the fruit. So eat away.

Dave

PS: next time tell him per the label instructions, he needs to wait more than 1 day before mowing.

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zzackey(8b GA)

What is a bioswale? Is it a swale of water? If so you aren't following the label, which is against the law.

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Marianne W (zone 10A)

As a fellow desert dweller, I thoroughly wonder why you would consider mulching over pea gravel. My guess is that you don't know this is a thread about vegetable gardening.

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

I'm a bit perplexed by that as well, Marianne. Perhaps houzz4nan has a pine tree mulched with pea gravel and as the pine sheds needles they mix with the gravel? Not too sure how else the two could get combined unless it was done deliberately.

Rodney

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gumby_ct(CT it says Z5)

O so you have a season long enuff for melons... good deal.

I had one Bush Sugar Baby this year which is an achievement in CT. It was a personal size melon. I've had better and I have bought worse. Will certainly try again.

I've heard SC has the best soil for sweet melons.

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vgkg(Z-7)

Wish I still had a few tomatoes growing, all gone bye-bye here :(. Seeds from a seedless melon? be interesting to see the offspring, could be one of the parents?

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herotozero

beesneeds,
I have successfully grown "wild" asparagus from seeds in pots until fall (first hard frost). I cut the tops, remove the roots, cleaning them to remove the soil and I place them in the refrigerator. I plant the crowns the following spring. I have had great success doing this method of seed saving- planting. A few years back I had forgotten 15 roots and they looked pitiful after spending a year and a half in my crisper drawer. I planted them anyway and 12 of the 15 survived !
Good luck.

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Christina Arms

I need some advice on my own asparagus experiment. I didn't read up on these and stuck some seeds in a garden pretty late in the season. Six of them grew. I didn't do much soil prep and decided they wouldn't survive the first winter so I moved them into a large deep container. Two of them still live in my garden. I plan to plant them in a properly prepared raised bed this spring. My question is should my asparagus ferns be droppy or be able to stand up? Also some browning is happening on the container plants. I had read that you cut back after the whole plant turns brown. Is this what's happening or is that on older plants? I seem to have better plants in the garden now. This might be some transplant shock but overall, the plants are still getting bigger.

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