23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

5 gallons is a small container for an eggplant too.. 10 gallons or bigger would be ideal.

thank you all for your help, thefoegottenone : yes i think i was over watering , the soil is good mix but my fault is watering them everyday with too much water.slimy_okra: i do fertilize them with balanced fertilizer and i used some epsom salt too(just once so far). i will reduce the watering amount and will see. will post more pictures if it became better in the futer.
but anyone can tell me if it will give me any fruit in the futer before the fall
thank you all

Well, I've never grown broccoli in a pot but that does seem a little small considering how tall and wide the plants grow in the open garden. Regarding watering I can't give you any rules. They will show if they need water by their behaviour. Only when needed applies to all plants - it's just that some need more than others. Feel down in the soil if you can't tell from looking at the plant. It doesn't have to be wet on top but it needs to be moist (not wet) an inch or so down.

Thanks floras,

Thanks for the response. I guess I wait and hope they turn orange.
Elaina

I had kabochas about two years ago. They're my favorite eating squash. Even in AZ, where the summer was much too hot for their liking, my kabocha tried to overtake the garden and yard. I'd say that ten feet for kabocha is pretty "short".

Excerpt from a publication on the subject by Clemson University:

Although the drain field may seem to be the ideal place to have a vegetable garden, it is not recommended. Even though different soil types differ in their ability to filter contaminants out of the effluent, there is no way to be absolutely sure that everything is being filtered out. Therefore it is not recommended to plant vegetables in a septic drain field because of the health risks associated with bacterial contamination. Also, vegetable gardening requires frequent cultivation of the soil, supplemental watering and fertilization. None of these practices are recommended for a drain field. Using a raised bed is also not recommended. The additional soil over the drain field reduces the effectiveness of the system to filter the effluent because it interferes with evaporation of soil moisture.

Short and direct from Perdue:

Never place plants meant to be eaten (fruits or
vegetable plants) over septic systems.

I'm wondering how far from a septic TANK can you plant a fruit tree or a vegetable garden or shrubs like blueberry or haskap? I have a modern septic system.

Also would a deep taproot plant like comfrey be dangerous to grow over a leach field?

Peter1142, could you protect carrots with a simple low tunnel of garden fabric? I have a portable one I use to protect a late planting of bush beans from frost. We usually get a frost mid-September but if they can get through that we get some good weather and fresh beans. I just planted bush beans after harvesting garlic.

I've had good luck with spinach wintering over without protection. Even without good snowfall, it started growing in early spring. So, if it doesn't get big enough for harvest, you can always wait until spring.

Mollyjane, I think you can plant broccoli, spinach, lettuce, greens and beets. When is your first frost date? I used Johnny's Seeds calculator to get a list.

Peter, I have had carrots do fine with the first few frosts (mine is usually October 15th). Even after that, even if the tops die, a layer mulch makes mine harvestable for some time into the winter. I would start them now, in fact, I need to go out and start some.

i water it every morning, i was told vegetables need to be watered daily
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That is the problem.
Too much water also washes out nitrogen. Yellowing is a sign of over watering and nitogen deficiency.

Thank you everybody, I think yes, I watered it too much
Do you think that it will be good if I water it properly, we are in the end of July, or it is too late for it

Triploids are not. That is why you have to interplant pollenizers with seedless watermelons.

I know. I don't quite understand that article's point. I wish they would develop them for just that reason. Gardeners with limited space don't want to devote a whole vine's worth of ground to a pollinator they don't want to eat.

But what I can't understand is the failure/inability/indifference to developing a parthenocarpic cucumis melon.

Thank you everybody! There is no hurry to pick... I am a first-time gardener this year and really have no idea what I'm doing. I'm actually really surprised the potato plants are doing as well as they are! I really appreciate all of the input.

That plant in the photo looks very healthy, and clearly colorado potato beetle hasn't found you yet. Be happy while ye may!

I am concerned aboout the botulisim scare. And is there any way to know for sure that the garlic bulbs and/or scapes are free from botulism. Are there any bloggers that know a lot about this subject?

It is important to keep botulism in perspective rather than to let it scare you. First understand the c. botulinum spores are all around us all the time in the air and especially common in soil. You live with them all the time.

But the spores pose no threat to you. The threat is from the toxins they produce if food contaminated with them is stored in an anaerobic environment and you then ingest that food. So in this case your fears are totally unfounded.

Is there anyway to know if your garlic is free from spores? The odds are high that they are not, that they do have spores on them as well as other soil-borne bacteria since they were grown in the ground. But those spores won't hurt you anyway so there is no need to worry about it. Before you would eat the garlic anyway you would wash and peel it and likely cook it in some way. That eliminates the problem.

Not sure why you would want to read a blog about it. Blogging is just one person's personal opinion, not facts. If you want to learn more about it go to a legit info source on botulism like the CDC website or NCHFP.

Dave

Thank you everyone for helping with my question on garlic scapes. I realize now that I harvested the scapes too soon and they are not developed enough to plant this fall. And yes I do know that each seed will give me only one clove and not a bulb. I enjoy experimenting. this is my first time experimenting with scapes to eat. so......I waited too long to harvest the scapes to eat. They were too big. Lesson learned. And I will check out the info sites you mentioned Dave. Thanks again everyone. (note:) Its a good thing I only tried this with a few scapes. I still have enough bubils that are almost ready to cut for seed. So next year's garlic crop I'll remember to cut some of the scapes when the tops are still small so I can try some recipes I've found online.

Thanks, galinas. We had a lot of clouds over the weekend so I thought that would give the plants some time to bounce back. They have perked up a bit, some better than others but the tomato plants have continued to curl up (the entire branch, not just the leaves), although one did set fruit. This morning, to my horror, I noticed that the edges of the leaves of several of the plants have black/brown edges. Is this just stress from all the rain or a bacterial infection? Should I pull these plants up so it doesn't spread?

That's probably physiological leaf roll on the tomatoes due to the excess moisture. It shouldn't effect production much, if at all, but the affected leaves will probably stay that way. New growth should come in normal.