24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

I seem to get some at the end of each season. Not sure, but it seems that the more humid areas get it earlier.

I do make sure I don't compost the diseased plants. They go out to the far field compost pile! (diseased plants, flowering weeds, morning glories, roses). Of course, I'm a lazy composter and we don't get hard freezes, so tings don't really get killed by freezing. Nancy

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Humsi(USDA 9b/10a Sunset 23 SoCal)

Like Peter, PM is the bane of my existence every year without fail. Hot, little/no rain in the summer, foggy mornings to make sure leaves are nice and damp before they go into the afternoon heat, no freezing to kill it off over the winter, and lots of wind to spread it around.

I've gotten to the point that I just have replacement seedlings ready for things like squash and cukes that are guaranteed to get it, pull when the PM is to the point they stop producing and replace with my starts. The milk or baking soda concoctions don't do much, and I really don't want to be spraying copper or serenade constantly as we garden all year round here. I just figure it into my gardening plan and try to be prepared.

Oh, nancyjane, I never used to compost PM vegetation either, but I finally figured I'm getting it every year regardless and I hated throwing away all that potential compost. Into the compost it goes.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Thanks, tishtoshnm. My soil is over caliche, so it is basically full of free lime. My vinegar test results in a nice "head" of foam! That's a good CSU report, and makes the important point that if you have free lime, you ain't gonna get there, with regard to acid loving plants. I think the point about adding loads of organic material is that you eventually just displace a lot of the free lime. So it's still there, but the concentration is lower. Now, as I said, if you have alkaline water, as do I, you're just alkalizing the soil every time you water. So acidification becomes a losing proposition.

As to rainwater collection, that's a great idea, except the OP says that he/she hardly gets any rainwater. So it's a good idea in principle, but maybe not in practice.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Marianne W (zone 10A)

I've been thinking about this for a while--I have a grasp on your conditions. My soil is alkiline clay & caliche, my water is 8.5 ph and I've got hard water, but not as hard as yours and about 6 inches of rain a year. So, yeah, makes sense.

One big thing that will help is leeching your garden. The most effective way is with rain water--it will pick up more of the minerals and alkalinity than your well water will. So, if I were in your position, I'd run gutters along my roof eaves and then connect the downspouts to hoses. I'd run a temporary hose system from the rain gutters out to the GH and flood it every time it rains. No pumping needed, no permanent install, no storage and you'd get enough water to leech with.

Not sure about affordable water treatment systems for your greenhouse. It will depend on what your test results say. But, I'd look into those portable water treatment systems designed for villages in the third world, I'll Google around to see if I find any that are cheap solar distillers.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Helen Zone 6 Ohio

I'll keep an eye on them. One vine seems to be dying. Others are still green, as are the pumpkins. I have them in several locations so they are not ripening at the same time. The dying vine has some powdering appearance to it so I guess that is some kind of blight.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
elisa_z5

The powdering appearance is probably powdery mildew -- very common in squash family plants this time of year, and will not affect your pumpkins. Agree with others here that leaving them on the vine is best as long as they are not in danger -- you could put them up off the ground on an inverted plate or some such to protect from burrowing insects, and/or throw some netting over them to protect from deer.

When you harvest, the best storage conditions are cool and DRY, so beware of a humid basement or a garage with windows that are open to morning fog. An unheated bedroom is often suggested (we should all be so lucky to have big houses with extra bedrooms!), but it gives you an idea. I put mine on shelves in an area away from the heat of the kitchen.

Also, as others have mentioned, once fully ripe and cured in the sun for a week or two, they will last for months, even into spring, so lasting until late October will be a cinch.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
glib(5.5)

Mais o menos. I could speak english at work, and that held me back. My wife is pretty good, and my daughter went to school and became fluent. I miss pedaling to work (not that I could get a car easily. The bureaucracy there is atrocious), and breakfasts with two bananas, two papayas, two guavas and a cup of coffee.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jessekimmerling

I'm in the same boat. I'm planning my garden for a location at sea level in Ecuador. I'm in the seed buying stage, so I can't comment about results. I'm attempting about 10 types of peppers, amaranth, thai long beans, asian eggplant, a couple tomatoes that will probably struggle, thai basil, cilantro. Everything else I'll buy in Ecuador from local farmers... lemon, orange, papaya, lemon grass, mint.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

<I purchased a soil test from my local hardware store and the N was high, PH was between 6.5-7.0.>

In this case I agree with the others - do nothing. Simple time fixes any high N issues.

But for future reference those do it yourself kits are a rip-off and quite famous for being inaccurate. What they are actually testing is the water you mix with them so you should never do anything to your soil based on one of them. For about the same price you can get a professional soil test done through your local county ag extension office.

Dave

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

You could cover your bed with shredded leaves, but it'll do a lot more good to dig them in. Especially if you're trying to use up nitrogen. Aeration will help remove ammonia, which is a volatile form of nitrogen that comes out of urea that bacteria use to produce non-volatile nitrates. Covering your bed with a top dressing won't help that aeration.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jnjfarm_gw(5a)

I replant green beans every 2 weeks. I pick off of a bunch for about 2-3 weeks and then out they go to make room for another crop.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Peter (6b SE NY)

My French Filet bush beans produce a consistently decent harvest until frost. Of course, nothing beats that first flush of beans... or the production of the Fortex pole beans.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I can't say. It isn't a one or the other choice. it is different spectrums at different stages of growth.

I grow in greenhouses so we only use lights for supplemental lighting and we only grow to transplant stage and aren't interested in blooming or fruiting.

Most of us here are outdoor gardeners which is why I referred you to the other forum where they deal with those issues all the time. They can also explain why the fixture has to be so close to the plants (4-6" above max) and what that does to the effective footprint size of the light and why 9 hours isn't nearly long enough (16 hours minimum is a common recommendation), how you will have to control for the molds and humidity issues in basements, etc.

I don't see the dimensions on your box but even a 4 foot 4 tube fixture only gives an effective light footprint of 2x3'. If you look at all the light set-up pics over on the Growing from Seed forum and the Growing Under Lights forum you'll see multiple fixtures used butted up next to each other.

Sorry I can't be more help.

Dave

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
balloonflower(5b Denver CO)

I have not been on the "growing under lights" GW forum, though it sounds interesting and I will have to check it out. You could also look into forums at the aquaponic source--I haven't been there much since I don't have room for a system, but have been to their local store and they are very knowledgeable. Touring their factory, they gave just quick runs on the pros/cons of different lights. I also have fluorescent fixtures that I use over winter with my potted herbs, but it's more just to keep alive and not encourage growth.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
zzackey(8b GA)

What is a passive greenhouse?

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
katerlyn

I had beautiful yellow blooms last year. Was so surprised when the vine reached long lengths and still no flowers this year, possibly the same seeds. I thought it might be because I egged it on with horse manure compost tea, something new. The other plants just got 3 leaves and quit... I loved those yellow blooms! I will try covering them?

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
William Hartley

Thanks. I will remove any plants which show any symptoms and spray the others with what I can get my hands on.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Peter (6b SE NY)

I suggest you contact your local extension to report the case and get a confirmation. They do free testing for LB, and can recommend a treatment.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

jopolitesse- Doesn't sound like it was anywhere near mature yet. You can probably use it as you would a large summer squash.

Rodney

1 Like    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree with Rodney - it is safe to eat, it the taste that will determine if you want to eat it or not.

Dave

1 Like    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

The plant in the photo doesn't look healthy to me. It has powdery mildew and appears stunted in growth. Whether that is causing the color issues or not I can't say but it could sure be a contributing factor. So could heat, lack of nutrients, and fruit left far too long on the vine. When fruit is left to turn yellow, to go way over-ripe, the plant tends to shut down.

But abnormal fruit coloring is almost always a lack of nutrients issue.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Don V

They are yellow from start and in same place as tons of other plants that are 100% fine, including old cucumber plants - except cuc beetles are bad and plants get ti fairly quickly. Weather is not a factor.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Slimy_Okra(2b)

If you're not in a hot summer zone, use dark coloured containers. Okra likes warm soil.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sunrisemadness(7b)

Grew Clemson Spineless in 5 gallon bucket with home made mix (1/3 ProMix BX, 1/3 coir and 1/3 Perlite with Tablespoon of Osmocote). Fertilized with MaxiBloom 5-15-14 weekly. Clipped each leaf when I harvested the 3" pods. NO branching at all. They have been very productive. Will plant 4 per 5 gallon bucket next year. They only get about 4-5 hours of afternoon sun on the deck. Over 5' tall now and beginning to show signs of stopping production (9-1-2015).

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Marianne W (zone 10A)

Eggplants can be picky. They probably just didn't like the weather. Did you get good production?

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Peter (6b SE NY)

I got decent production - more than I can eat so I can't complain - but we did plant two rows because I started way too many seeds. I don't think the weather alone can cause leaves to yellow and wilt (sometimes the telltale half of the leaf), but who knows.

As you can see in the pic, we've had a second round of flea beetles this year.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

High humidity coupled with hot air temps are the enemy to pollen. It turns tacky and no-viable. That leads to blossom drop. So that may part of the problem. There is a FAQ here all about it.

Plus, with self-pollinating plant like eggplants many times the pollen has already been distributed even before the bloom opens all the way. So that may be what you are seeing too.

Dave

1 Like    Bookmark