24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin

With a garden of that size, an electric fence sounds like the most cost-effective option. In my rural garden, I use a hybrid fence of electric fencing high, and chicken wire low. The wire not only keeps out the deer, it keeps the racoons out of my corn. To make an entryway, I just tie pieces of twine between two poles with quick-release knots... the deer could come through there, but once bitten by the fence, they don't seem to know the difference between wire & string.

But like almost any other method of animal deterrent, an electric fence is most effective when used proactively, to keep them out before they learn what's on the other side. If the animals know that something they like is inside, they will find a way through... so putting up a fence after damage has begun is less likely to discourage them.

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noinwi

"Those are some weird deer that eat squash and not tomatoes. I guess maybe there are regional tastes in deer?"
Mama deer teaches her babies to eat what she has developed a taste for.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Sure looks like multiplying onions to me. Here is a good article on How to Grow them. They just need feeding now and then, keep them watered, harvest a few from each bunch 2-3 times a year as needed. If you want them to expand faster transplant a few as you have done. Mulch them well in the fall for some winter protection.

http://www.gardeningblog.net/how-to-grow/multiplier-onions/

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pnbrown

There are many cultivars of "multiplyers". Knowing your climate and zone would help.

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Several things can make radishes more or less hot. How much water they get, how fast they grow, the temps they're grown in, and most importantly the variety. I grew Long Black Spanish for the first time last year and holy geez those things were hot and it didn't matter what time of the year I grew/harvested them.

Rodney

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pnbrown

The reason a lot of N sometimes results in small roots/tubers is because it causes reduced availability of K - which is what is required for large root and tuber crops. OTOH, if K is low to start with failing to supply the crop with N is not going to help.

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jenandwya

I have 6 rows, each are 3X13 ft. One row has a wire tunnel over it for cukes to vine on one side and green beans to vine on the other. Will put corn, tomatoes, zukes and squash, carrots dispersed properly over the other rows. raspberry and blackberry bushes in the corner. And a bag of compost/worm castings to throw off to the side and stick some watermelon seedlings in there to vine out away from my rows. Have 2, 1x13 ft beds off to the side for wildflowers to feed the honey bees so they will pollinate my garden. No raised beds. Have a, 18 ft lettuce bed with radishes in it as well. And a little 4 ft herb bed

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charlieboring

I do not have a lot of room, so I use something called "edible landscap

ing." I have landscaping around 3 sides of my house where I have a variety of flowering shrubs and flowers. Among the landscape plants on the south side, I have planted bush cherries, a blackberry bush, a pomegranite bush and a strawberry patch. In the spring I intend to add 3 cranberry bushes and some tomatoes and eggplants. In front of the house I have interspersed herbs among the flowering shrubs and flowers. On the northside of the house I plant tomatoes, eggplant and peppers among the flowering shrubs and flowers. In front I also have a Japanese persimmon tree and a cherry tree. In the backyard I have a plum, 2 asian pears, 2 paw paws, 2 jujubes, an apricot and 3 fig trees. A also have a blueberry, 2 raspberry and a blackberry bush. I have a trellis on which I run 3 hardy kiwi vines and a pergola on which I run 3 fuzzy kiwi vines. For additional garden plants I have a 10'X20' garden plot where I plant beans, greens, parsley, garlic, leeks and tomatoes. I also have a raised garden where I have 2 gojiberry bushes and I am planting artichokes, radishes and carrots. Finally, I have 2 honeyberry bushes. Here are some pictures.

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zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin

Ditto on a reduction in watering, which would be my first guess on the cause. However, as the plants age, there will naturally be some leaf die-back on the lower leaves. Your plants are still producing, as long as the new leaves & fruits look healthy, there is probably no need for concern. Given the size of the container, it's possible a light application of fertilizer might be necessary, but I would not do so until the plants stop bearing.

For good California gardening references, I would add the Sunset New Western Garden Book. They are up to their 9th edition now (I still have the 4th from when I lived in California in the 80's). It is a very comprehensive garden book, it was of enormous help to me when I gardened in San Diego and Pala Alto.

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gaynor42

My leaves (the older) look like they have powdery mildew and at one point I did have white fly which I sprayed naturally but it still kept the bees away. Now I have a plant that is producing what looks like great fruit (and a conjoined) but most have just shrivelled, turned brown and well that's it

This is my first time trying to grow cucumbers but some how everything else I have grown from seed is doing fantastic... I'm losing friends off handing the stuff!

Why the heck are the cucumbers being so god dang awful to grow! There are heaps of flowers although I admit not many male when I last looked. What the heck am I doing wrong??? Oh and it is grown in a large wooden container with struts for growth.

Any help before the season here in Australia finishes would be so welcome and thank you in advance for the help.

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dirtguy50 SW MO z6a(6a)

I use the one from Territorial Seeds which is $25.00 a year if you renew after the 30 day free trial. It is worth it to me to make notes to review what happen in the previous years. I have been using it for 3 years now and think it is worth every penny.

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PRO
KROSAGRO

You can find some tutorials on the Internet and it will be much more cheaper.

www.krosagro.pl

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jeanwedding(6 ky)

Ky Derby, first Saturday in May.....yeah rain finally stoppped this afternoon hope to get asp planted soon and can cover with straw.....

thank yall

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PRO
KROSAGRO

Originally asparagus grew in swamps or wet places, so maintaining consistent soil moisture is very important for good production.

www.krosagro.pl

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zzackey(8b GA)

Around here most people plant on March 1st. They start extras in case of a late frost. We didn't get a late frost this year so they won.

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

I don't have a soil thermometer, but we've had temps well into the 70swith a few exceptions for several weeks (If you HAVE to have a drought, at least have beautiful weather!). It's been close to 80 the last few days. Planting most things tomorrow. Nancy

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zzackey(8b GA)

It only costs 7 bucks per test in Florida and they recommend what to use to amend your soil. You could get 7 soil tests for 49 bucks. Hopefully WVa doesn't charge more than that.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

<thanks but got to many diff places to test here....>

Is this your native soil? If so then there won't be much difference from one place to the next? Doesn't happen that way. If they are all growing on your property in native soil then they will all be within the same very narrow margin and one soil test made up of several selected samples is all that is needed. And keep in mind that pH changing, if it is needed, doesn't happen over night anyway so trying to amend many locations would be a major chore. If you want to grow blueberries and if your soil is too alkaline it would be better to "create" a specific location for them made up of trucked in acidic soil.

But if that isn't enough for you then a simple $25-50 soil test meter is all that is needed.

Dave

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zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin

No. Years back, I grew a naked-seeded pumpkin (Streaker Jack) that was impure; one of the plants turned out to have hulled seed. I had (unknowingly) used male flowers from the hulled plant to hand pollinate some of the others in the row, and when harvested, the seed from those plants was still hull-less. Since I liked the quality of the good seed, I wanted to try growing it again... but the vendor had dropped it, probably due to other complaints. :-(

I've grown Kakai as part of a 4-variety trial of hull-less pumpkins, and the seed was large & high quality. The yield was somewhat temperamental, though, and it had problems with seed sprouting inside. If you grow it, I would recommend opening the pumpkins as soon as possible after they are fully ripe.

There is another hull-less variety that I received in trade several years ago that has a high yield & does not sprout, but it also had a hulled impurity... I hope to select a pure hull-less strain from it in a few years.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Duplicate post. Here is a link to your post of this same question last week.

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/2900704/where-is-the-best-place-to-order-cucumber-seed

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quilg

This is an old question. However, I want to clarify a bit for folks who are new to growing with plastic mulch in large sheets. Dennis explianed it well. I'lI just add my four cents.

Which is way too much.

So here's the short version

1- Dennis is right and use big sheets

2- make round holes, they tear less.

3- pick up and store plastic away from winter UV

4- don't worry about the weeds and grass. do not till, add compost only at the holes, before putting down the plastic. Water only until the plants are established. A week or 2. No irrigation needed. Ever. Well, maybe in the SW.

5- soil is 5° cooler under black plastic in the summer (Rodale c.1985).

6- Relax,

until Mid August then protect from fifty-five°

I'm not kidding!

The long version.

I have been raising melons, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers and more, using six mil or thicker black plastic since the nineteen seventies. My parents started with ten mil (I think), which I inherited and it lasted eight years of leaving it out year round. The winter UV finally killed iit.

My first suggestion is that you roll it up and store it in a dark place. I get six years or more out of six mil black.

Pre-drilling with inch holes is a great idea and I'll try it at about one foot intervals. I just poke holes in puddles when they appear. His nail on a broomstick in a better idea than my method of using whatever is at hand. Why?

Because plastic tears in a line. If you make a longitudinal cut, instead of a round hole or puncture, in later years it will tear more easily.

So, do not make your planting holes with an "x". Make them round with scissors, or as I do. I cut both ends of a can, around four to five in diam, hold it with vise grips and heat the other end with a propane torch. Take a deep breath and psst, cut a nice round, sealed hole and put the circle in a trash bsg . For melons I use six foot diagonal spacing. Less for tomatoes, even less for peppers, eggplant, basil, etc. Plan well, because that's the configuration for years to come. I often use twenty by twenty sheets so I could just turn it each year for crop rotation. You might just slide it down the length of the garden, if north south orientation augers against turning the layout

Now, its about time to plant. Clear plastic will heat up your ground before you plant. Black plastic will not. Clear plastic solarization is thought by some to disturb/ destroy the beneficial biota of you topsoil. So heat with caution and read more to find your way. That aside: in spite of the wind, lay the black plastic on the ground...no need to weed or cultivate. Drive a short stake into the center of each hole. Pick up the plastic and prepare the area at each stake as you wish. I try to remove a half bushel or more of soil to my compost and fill each hole with a compost soil mix. Replace the plastic. Batten down the edges with soil, stones boards, etc. Plant and water individually, as needed for a week or two.

Then forget about it. You may need to weed three inches on all sides of each plant. You will not need irrigation. You have stopped evaporation. The ground in most regions is wet when you plant. It will stay perfectly moist all summer. I have had a few six week periods of eighty to a hundred degrees and no rain w/o water stress. Rodale tested mulches sometime in the eighties and determined that six mil black plastic kept the soil five degrees cooler than bare soil.

For me the major problem with melon production is that i crowd them. So stepping on the vines as I pick and some mildew. I do not lift the melons off the plastic, but puncture a puddle occupied by a melon. Bigger still is that after over thirty years, I cannot tell if a watermelon is ripe.

Beware the heartbreak of late collapse in canteloupes! Fifty-five degrees will make you cry in the August dawn. Get some cover material and get out there on that cool evening, when the clouds go away. A few nights later,you can relax until fall. That's for Western Oregon, Wash, Penna, and the garden state. In NH prepare to keep the patch above fifty- five.

Sorry about the length... I just love eating melons!

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quilg

Whoops! Dennis said make eigth inch holes. Larger holes will give you spectacular individual weeds

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree that with clovers you need to mow well and close, then till it all in at least a month before planting.

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jnjfarm_gw(5a)

I have mowed off and tilled part of garden for early crops and tilled more as I needed space. this creates more matter to till under. if it is really tall you could mow off and let regrow .

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Pond Plant Girl(9)

Cool. What part of AZ are you in, Azcanner? Arizona has many diverse areas between the desert and the mountains.

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azcanner(AZ Zone 5 US Zone 9)

Phoenix metro (salt river valley). Some things can grow year round here (broccoli, carrots, onions, garlic, beets,...)

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

It occurs to me that one good reason to transplant is cutworms, which are a problem for me. Now, if I transplant, the plant is *right there*, so I know exactly where to spread my DE or Sevin dust. If I put in seeds, and if I don't mark exactly where those seeds were put in, and where I expect them to come up, I can't do responsible cutworm management. They'll get the seedlings as they come up, probably before I even see them come up. I suppose I could dust the whole seedbed, but that's a bigger proposition.

I suspect that transplantation does do some root damage, but I guess one just has to be careful. I never direct seed my squash and melons, and they always do fine. The best strategy for me is to transplant, but while the containered plants are still quite small.

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engineeredgarden1

You are about 3 weeks too early...I live in the NW corner of Alabama, and wouldn't even think of planting seeds for squash earlier than mid-April. For you, I would sow seeds on the first of April, and things should turn out quite well....

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