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I can't say. It isn't a one or the other choice. it is different spectrums at different stages of growth.
I grow in greenhouses so we only use lights for supplemental lighting and we only grow to transplant stage and aren't interested in blooming or fruiting.
Most of us here are outdoor gardeners which is why I referred you to the other forum where they deal with those issues all the time. They can also explain why the fixture has to be so close to the plants (4-6" above max) and what that does to the effective footprint size of the light and why 9 hours isn't nearly long enough (16 hours minimum is a common recommendation), how you will have to control for the molds and humidity issues in basements, etc.
I don't see the dimensions on your box but even a 4 foot 4 tube fixture only gives an effective light footprint of 2x3'. If you look at all the light set-up pics over on the Growing from Seed forum and the Growing Under Lights forum you'll see multiple fixtures used butted up next to each other.
Sorry I can't be more help.
Dave

I have not been on the "growing under lights" GW forum, though it sounds interesting and I will have to check it out. You could also look into forums at the aquaponic source--I haven't been there much since I don't have room for a system, but have been to their local store and they are very knowledgeable. Touring their factory, they gave just quick runs on the pros/cons of different lights. I also have fluorescent fixtures that I use over winter with my potted herbs, but it's more just to keep alive and not encourage growth.

I had beautiful yellow blooms last year. Was so surprised when the vine reached long lengths and still no flowers this year, possibly the same seeds. I thought it might be because I egged it on with horse manure compost tea, something new. The other plants just got 3 leaves and quit... I loved those yellow blooms! I will try covering them?



The plant in the photo doesn't look healthy to me. It has powdery mildew and appears stunted in growth. Whether that is causing the color issues or not I can't say but it could sure be a contributing factor. So could heat, lack of nutrients, and fruit left far too long on the vine. When fruit is left to turn yellow, to go way over-ripe, the plant tends to shut down.
But abnormal fruit coloring is almost always a lack of nutrients issue.


Grew Clemson Spineless in 5 gallon bucket with home made mix (1/3 ProMix BX, 1/3 coir and 1/3 Perlite with Tablespoon of Osmocote). Fertilized with MaxiBloom 5-15-14 weekly. Clipped each leaf when I harvested the 3" pods. NO branching at all. They have been very productive. Will plant 4 per 5 gallon bucket next year. They only get about 4-5 hours of afternoon sun on the deck. Over 5' tall now and beginning to show signs of stopping production (9-1-2015).


I got decent production - more than I can eat so I can't complain - but we did plant two rows because I started way too many seeds. I don't think the weather alone can cause leaves to yellow and wilt (sometimes the telltale half of the leaf), but who knows.
As you can see in the pic, we've had a second round of flea beetles this year.

High humidity coupled with hot air temps are the enemy to pollen. It turns tacky and no-viable. That leads to blossom drop. So that may part of the problem. There is a FAQ here all about it.
Plus, with self-pollinating plant like eggplants many times the pollen has already been distributed even before the bloom opens all the way. So that may be what you are seeing too.
Dave


Amusingly, aged urine will precipitate out white crystals that are called Struvite, which is a phosphate material containing magnesium and nitrogen. Struvite is great fertilizer. I have to think that disgust about using urine for fertilizer would be relaxed if it weren't actually a golden liquid, but an inoffensive white powder instead.

I have never had squirrels take EVERYTHING. Absolutely everything? Since it's probably not the Southern Arizona Black Squirrel (Pic), have you considered the two-legged neighborly twit?
There are advantages with having coyotes everywhere but they don't chase everything away...

That looks more like downy mildew to me: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Downy_mildew
I have powdery mildew. Milk with oil and dish soap has been working for me. My sugar pie pumpkins stopped producing until I started using the solution.

I feel like the picture about half way down this page is pretty close to what I have.
http://scriptogr.am/waste24brass
I will try the baking soda + water solution

I had pm on my virgina creeper, lilac, squash and pumpkins. I used a combination of 4 cups milk, 2 T canola oil, 1 t of dish soap (surficant) and 2 and a third gallons of warm water to control it. I apply the mixture weekly. So far, the vagina creeper, squash and giant pumkins are PM free. Some is still present on the sugar pie pumpkins, but its about half as it was.
I tried using a fungicide on the squash, but it did nothing. The milk is working better than I could have imagined.



<I purchased a soil test from my local hardware store and the N was high, PH was between 6.5-7.0.>
In this case I agree with the others - do nothing. Simple time fixes any high N issues.
But for future reference those do it yourself kits are a rip-off and quite famous for being inaccurate. What they are actually testing is the water you mix with them so you should never do anything to your soil based on one of them. For about the same price you can get a professional soil test done through your local county ag extension office.
Dave
You could cover your bed with shredded leaves, but it'll do a lot more good to dig them in. Especially if you're trying to use up nitrogen. Aeration will help remove ammonia, which is a volatile form of nitrogen that comes out of urea that bacteria use to produce non-volatile nitrates. Covering your bed with a top dressing won't help that aeration.