23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

It's normal.

Rodney

    Bookmark     July 11, 2014 at 11:26AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
elisa_z5

Normally, the flower rotting is normal--it serves its purpose to pollinate the fruit and then rots and falls off.
If the fruit is rotting when the squash is still small, then as Peter says, it's because the fruit didn't get pollinated so it is dying.
What you have to do is, in the morning when the flower opens on the female (the fruit) pollinate it with pollen from an open male flower.

If you're getting rot when the squash is bigger, then I don't know what is going on.

    Bookmark     July 11, 2014 at 11:14AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

It might be blossom end rot. How big is the squash when it starts molding/rotting?

Rodney

    Bookmark     July 11, 2014 at 11:20AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
AthenaASB(Kentucky- Zone 6)

Is there anything that will steal the entire berry? Last year every time I had one close to being ready to be picked, it was taken.
I'm trying to come up with a new plan of attack this year. I live in a rural area with woods on 3 sides, so lots of critters. I feel like every year I have to come up with a battle plan so I can actually enjoy my fruits and veggies.
I'm thinking this year I'll do some of those hanging strawberry bags on my deck, and then drape them with netting. For the last two years I have attempted to grow strawberries and have yet to enjoy one single berry because of the nasty little thieves who keep stealing them all :( I do not plant them to share with the wildlife. The strawberries are the only thing I can't seem to get any of. Everything leaves my blackberries, raspberries, and blueberries alone, and since switching to trellises, stopped losing so many cucumbers and squashes to bugs.

    Bookmark     March 12, 2014 at 1:05AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mjo27

I buried my strawberry plants right in the ground and what I thought were harmless grubs turned out to be strawberry eating pests! I also made the mistake of letting plants grow around it and although I will take care of that ASAP, I need to know what plants are attracted the moisture all the plants are creating. Then I can finally take forth in ridding my delicious straw berries of pests. Can somebody please tell me what pests I have probably attracted, and what I can do about it? I would like to use an organic insecticide and mabey other insects that are of help. (Note: I already know I have, strawberry sap beetles, roily ploys and possibly strawberry weevils.)
If anyone can help me out please do!
Thanks!

    Bookmark     July 11, 2014 at 10:22AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Cool. It will definitely help. I don't know about where you are, but it's been definitely warmer here this year. I hardly ever lose a mater to sunscald, but this year have had to abort about a half dozen or so thus far.

Kevin

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 6:28PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
planatus(6)

I have more sunscald some years than others, depending on how the season goes. The smaller-fruited varieties seldom have this issue, but the big bells can run into problems. I think your shade cover is perfect. The only reason I use tulle is that it stays put in the wind better than other types of cloth or row cover.

    Bookmark     July 11, 2014 at 7:58AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

As long as the top is live and growing, it can help the tubers to grow bigger and mature. Potatoes, depending on the variety need 80 to 110 days from sprouting.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 11:46PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Steve349

After they bloom, you can scratch some out. But wait till the plant turn yellow or die down. Good luck.

    Bookmark     July 11, 2014 at 7:48AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Mama2Luvu- Was the blossom dried up and shriveled, yellow and open, or was it green and unopened? In any case, you'll know soon if it was pollinated or not. If it was, it will grow. If it wasn't, it will fall off. And a female blossom always has a little fruit behind it from the time the flower starts to grow (before it's pollinated).

Rodney

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 8:06PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

A few of my early ones looked like that. I origionly thought my daughter's bad watering while we were gone for 2 weeks was the culprit, but it also could have been bad pollination.
Either way, I've got one zuk and one crooknecked yellow that are producing like gangbusters! Nancy

    Bookmark     July 11, 2014 at 2:08AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mav72(10b)

Somthing has eaten the tops of my late shallots but I was thinking it was one of them little grasshoppers... I saw one jump into some bushes when watering the plants...

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 9:49PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Onions are poisonous to cats? Try telling that to mine!

When I saw the thread title, I was going to reply with "a big white and orange male cat from SoCal!"

Kevin

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 10:58PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Well first of all, 1.5 foot tall peppers are much too large to be transplanted, in my opinion. Bigger is not always better when it comes to transplants. The bigger the transplant, the more stress it undergoes when it's roots are disturbed. That's why they took a while to start growing and were having issues from the get go.

Second, the reason they continue to have issues is because of your watering. Peppers don't need watered 2-3 times a week, especially when they are mulched. You're probably drowning them. Deep, infrequent watering is best. Once a week should be sufficient. Check down a few inches in the soil and see if it's moist before watering. If it's moist, wait a day or two. If it's dry, water. If you correct your watering practices your peppers should survive.

5-6 hours of sun a day is less than optimum but it should be enough. And they might need some fertilizer.

Rodney

Edited to add link to the OP's tomato thread.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato plants' leaves curling. How much sunlight needed?

This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Thu, Jul 10, 14 at 22:56

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 10:21PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Agree with Rodney, but you got some pics?

Kevin

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 10:30PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Peter1142(Zone 6b)

That is the rationale for leaving them in the ground for extra time, not for leaving the vines to rot in place, I think? Can't you cut down the dying vines and leave them in the ground and the same thing would be accomplished?

    Bookmark     July 8, 2014 at 2:38PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Peter1142(Zone 6b)

Yield was not great... dug up just under half the 8' or so row and barely got enough for mashed potatoes.

My first year gardening hasn't been very fruitful so far. A lot of small harvests, I am getting dribs and drabs...

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 10:05PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
noki

Based on the one pic, they look like common Bush "green beans" like "Royal Burgundy". They look fine to pic now, I agree that they don't look like they are going to get longer.

Maybe a seed mixup.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 9:45PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Agree. They are a purple bush type. And yes, those are ready to pick. When the seeds inside start swelling like that they are past ready.

Rodney

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 9:50PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ilovecucumbers Zone 6b, NE PA

Japanese Beetle!
If you know what's good for you
Off the eggplants NOW.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 4:48PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
loribee2(CA 9)

Seeds planted
Birds, critters, bugs and elements conspire
The war begins

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 6:03PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

Is it too late to start seed for brassicas for the fall?

I started cauliflower [two varieties to space it out] on June 21st and about 5 broccoli of two varieties. then i started the main fall broccoil on July 4th. I have 3 varieties to space it out some.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 3:03PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
prairiemoon2 z6 MA

Thank you Wayne! I guess it's not too late, if I get cracking. Good luck with your fall crop! :-)

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 5:28PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

It's a cross.

Rodney

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 4:53PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
springtogarden(6)

I agree. A cross

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 5:16PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
2ajsmama

Figured Bt would work for any caterpillar. Have to see what the moth looks like - these are new up here. They aren't bothering the curly kale though I should just pull that now, that's the only brassica I'm growing. Think if I just pull all the kale and wait a few weeks I'll have them die out, or will it be just in time for the ones who have already matured (?) to lay eggs? I really hate to spray if I don't have to.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 4:22PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jkduke22

I got a bunch of different worms all over my cabbage etc this year. I picked them off and put on row cover and that kept the worms away without spraying.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 4:36PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ltilton

I have the opposite problem. Stunted, yellowish, rusty leaves with blossoms before they should be forming. It's weird that I can grow healthy bush beans, but my pole beans are always a bust.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 4:12PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
CourtneyB123

I also have bush beans but they are so limp and small! It has produced one bean but they are just so fragile looking I can't imagine it producing anything much!!

As for the fertilizer, I initially put in a fertilizer specific to vegetable gardens and followed package instructions with mixing fertilizer with my regular south florida soil! Hopefully it's not too much nitrogen for them! I'll post if it starts to produce any vegetables!!! Thanks for all the help everyone!

    Bookmark     July 10, 2014 at 4:23PM
Sign Up to comment
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™