23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Properly stored - cool and dry - they are viable for at least 5-6 years. Even longer according to some over on the Seed Saving forum when they are stored in the fridge.
And can growing conditions affect the pod shell? Most definitely. Air temps especially as well as watering practices.
Dave
I think there are definite variations in pea strains, and I'm saving seeds from a shell pea I really like. But I agree that cultural conditions make a huge difference, especially planting date.
The wait for mature pea seeds is much shorter than many other veggies -- only about two extra weeks. The pea variety I like is expensive to buy, so my little knot of spoiled rotten seed plants should save me ten bucks.
Brown dots on the back of leaves (clustered together) may be eggs of the squash beetle. You may also see little beetles walking around the plant.
Use the sticky side of some tape (duct tape works good) to remove the eggs by pressing the tape on the eggs. Also works on the walking beetles.
These beetles are diff from the Squash Vine Borer (SVB) which lay eggs of the same color but are laid singly on the stem of the plant.
While to can try to save the wilting plant, it can be futile. Plant more plants if you haven't had enuff yet.
Lori...love that book! I'm in the Stony Point/Todd area,the flat lands, so we are usually several degrees cooler in fall and winter than SR or RP.
I'm a lazy winter gardener and usually cover most of my raised beds with cardboard to keep the weeds away, but usually have some broccoli, chard, kale, carrots, celery.
Nancy
Where exactly do you live? In Saskatchewan, carrots should have already been planted, although it is not too late to seed now. Turnips should also go in within the next week. Keep in mind that most fall veggies tolerate frost, so don't go by the first frost date. Go by the first -5 degrees C date as this is usually when those veggies start to decline unless protection is provided. Beets can be seeded in mid to late July.
There are lots of non-root fall veggies that can be planted as late as late August here. Look at the DTM and add 2 weeks plus typical time to germination, then count backwards.
so will mature sperm wait inside an immature flower for a few days and then pollinate it when the female is ready?
No, viable pollen is very short lived, hours, not days, with the number of hours determined by both hormonal and environmental conditions. That's one reason why you normally get so many more male blooms and why most plant more than 1 plant (to insure the timing for pollination)..
The female bloom in your picture looks like it will open within 12-18 hours of when the photo was taken. You or a bee and a newly opened male has to be there at that time . :)
Dave
So I just had them hit my zucchini hard. I suggest fighting the good fight! I had one plant that had the entire stem chewed down to about 3/4 of its original size. It was literally hanging on by a few single strands! I used my finger to clear out as much of the goo as I could and then sprayed the entire wound with a strong mix of BT. After I let the BT sit and work all morning i used my hose to really clean the wound well. Once the wound was clear and only green tissue was left, I applied a big mound of compost/soil mixture around the base covering the problem area by at least 6 inches. Basically a cone of dirt around the stem. I then applied a compost tea and watered twice a day for a week or so. I followed up with BT spraying/injections around various sections of the stem during the following two nights and mornings and placed TP rolls around exposed stem areas. After a few days, the plant was back to its original vigor! So, yes you can save them!! Just add the BT to your regime. This kills the worms. Also, if you let your squash run along the ground, bury various nodes under the soil because they will develop separate root systems. This makes it so the plant will live even if a svb severs the vine in between the buried sections. The wounds will also grow new roots so keep them buried and watered well until they establish the new roots. Good luck
This post was edited by PlanterJeff on Wed, Jul 9, 14 at 13:25
Thanks for the advice! I think I will try the BT and burying the stems more....the plants truly are out of control and are vining several feet on the ground instead of standing upright as I thought they were suppose to do. So, I think they will be good candidates to getting more roots going in the way you described.
Thanks!
I can't remember where I saw this, but there is a marvelous YouTube video around about using diatomaceous earth to deal with stink bugs. Yes, everyone says to use it, but they don't really say how!
What you do is get your shop vac out, and connect the hose to the output, so you use it as a blower. Then mist the tomatoes. Now grab a handful of DE and, while standing in front of the tomatoes, blow the DE all over them. It sticks! My understanding is that this *completely* removes the stink bug problem. Yes, rinse off the harvested tomatoes before you eat them. This treatment needs to be done just every few weeks (unless it rains hard.)
I had a bad problem with stink bugs and tomatoes last year, before I heard about this strategy. I was picking and vacuuming until I was blue in the face. I've been prepared to use this strategy, but haven't yet seen a single stink bug.
If you are gonna spray, then I agree with Dan.
But for this time of year, if it is not the stink bugs it will be something else. I would pull them out, and replant for the fall crop. Organic tomatoes in Texas are only good for spring and fall. Forget about trying summer unless you want to go to war with bugs.
Spring: harvest by May, then pull.
Fall: start seeds indoors now for fall crop
June-August is prime bug time.
I got a late start (not harvesting by May for tomatoes) on everything & now all the veggies are infested. I plant stuff to attract beneficial insects, so I'll give them a chance to eat the enemies first before I pull.
Home tests are unreliable, so save your money.
It's in a container, right?
Your best bet, at this point, for feeding would be to get a water soluble all purpose fert like Miracle Gro All Purose(24-8-16) or Foliage Pro (9-3-6). If you go with the MG, you'll still need to supplement with Calcium and Magnesium--- Calmag.
Giving weekly doses at half strength is better than full strength every 2 weeks like the label says.
Herbicides will stay for quite a while, so stop adding them and you should be ok. It's pretty tough to kill a pepper plant.
Good luck.
Kevin
It is your soil mix.
Never uses grass clippings that were sprayed with anything, even if it was months ago. I'm assuming you didn't fully compost them before adding. The grass clippings are burning your pepper plants (too much nitrogen, and herbicide residue)
While tomatoes and cucumbers love high levels of nitrogen, pepper plants are more sensitive to the extra nitrogen, and will curl leaves, and usually won't produce or produce very little.
"I'm growing 127 Cossack Pineapple, 16 Cape Gooseberry and 16 Goldie plants this year."
My eyes glazed over after "127". Yikes!!! That will be a lot of bent over, off the ground harvesting... and you'll need to do it often. Chances are that you will need to control rodents somehow, even in my small planting I found many chewed, empty husks. They eat the ripest ones first, probably attracted by the smell.
Yes, I think I went a little overboard this year ;-). I had rodents in mind when I planted so many, since I know I'm going to lose some of the fruit. They even went after my beets and turnips and chewed a hole through the side of my tunnel to get in. Inside the tunnels, where I have 48 ground cherry plants, I'm going to set a lot of traps baited with PB and hope they find PB more attractive. The crows could do with a meaty snack, right? Outside, I'll just hope for the best - there are lots of hawks and feral cats on patrol.
I was wondering the question about the multiple photo thing myself, I couldn't figure it out so I just create a collage of the pics I have and post them. I have posted at the most a collage of 4 photos and it seems to work out ok since most computers these days can zoom-in on a picture.
On the transplanting, I can say that I'm pretty good at it even though I'm new. I've even successfully created new plants from clippings which was fun, and a bit of a science project too. I prep either the ground or a pot with soil on the bottom, then squeeze the container the plant came in so it loosens, then I carefully tip the plant upside down, the plant and soil, and roots drop out, place it quickly in the new pot or ground, and quickly cover it up and around with soil, give it a good water, and leave it out of full sun for a few days to recover. The plant has to process sunlight and draws nutrients from its roots to do so. If the roots are in shock, it will be stressed to process the light. Lots of my plants have gone through shock, but I can say that the only plant that died was a nearly fully-grown sunflower I accidentally yanked from the ground with the roots. Don't ask. lol
The cucumbers look OK, I generally don't sweat the seed leaves, but I do keep an eye on them a little closer if I think they are fading before they are supposed to.
Colorado gardening is tough for many unique reasons (as is everywhere). The high altitude means our sunlight is far more intense then it is at sea level and our summers, though sometimes short, can be blazing hot. Denver is regularly ranked in the top 3 driest cities in the country. 70F for a week and then 1' of snow. 80 MPH winds (which in the summers heat feels like your standing in a blow dryer) just saps every lick of moisture out of EVERYTHING, including your plants. The climate is really just a b!@#$.
We do, however, tend to have fewer pest and disease issues, and the 40-50* drop in temperature between noon and midnight makes for mighty tasty produce, if you can make it to that point lol.
Don't be a stranger over at the Rocky Mountain forum either.
Thank you, Dave, I will try it this year and let you know how it works on carrots.
I don't have root knot nematodes but I did the mustard treatment after my potatoes last year anyway. It was kind of fun to do, chopping the greens and getting them turned under in 30 minutes. I think it was good for the soil in a yum yum way, and because of the digging and chopping I managed to get every last spud out of the ground. That spot went to onions this year, and it has performed well.