24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I use Fert-a-lome. It is available near me. It is a combination starting and potting mix.

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donnabaskets(Zone 8a, Central MS)

My first seed starting attempts were with Jiffy Mix and later, with peat pots. I never had good results AT ALL. (the peat pots dry out in no time and before you know it your seedlings are dead) For a long time I used just a high quality potting mix, and it worked pretty well. But a couple of years ago I decided to experiment with Gardeners Supply Seed Starting mix. I like it very much and I do believe I have a higher rate of germination with it. I also keep a bag of vermiculite on hand for dusting over fine seeds. It holds in the moisture and the seedlings can come up through it very easily.

I really think that for most beginners, it's more about technique than it is about the medium. It certainly was for me. Read the seed packet carefully. If it says the seeds need light, be sure they have it This may mean you just press the seeds into the soil and don't cover. If it says dark, put the pots in the dark, keeping close watch so you move them into light as soon as they begin to come up. Also, pay attention to the germination temperatures that are stated. They are very important. It's always a good idea to google the plant you are growing and learn all you can before you begin. And finally, moisture control is crucial. Moisten your medium well before you put it in pots. Sow seeds and give just enough water to settle them. Let them drain a few minutes and then put them in an airtight location. I use Rubbermaid clear storage crates for a whole flat. If you are only starting a pot or two, you can put them in a ziplock bag. This will keep the atmosphere moist and help the plants come up more quickly and more uniformly.

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Peter (6b SE NY)

I have it marked on my calendar for March 14th (zone 6b NY), to be transplanted out about a week or two before last frost towards the end of April. I also don't want them to get rootbound. This is my first time with them though so I can't say yet how it will go.

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mr_bailey(6)

In Zone 6, as well. I tried starting my early spring crops this early last year and they ended up pretty leggy. I had them in my window sill (facing west). I suppose now would be a good time if you have a grow light set-up. Otherwise, I'm targeting March 1.

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

I agree with glib that there's probably a good chance they won't make it through the winter.

Rodney

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Bob(6a/5b)

I'm in eastern PA too and did the same as mfran. The beet (tops) I didn't harvest really looked shot after the first hard freeze. From the top, they looked very dead. So it's possible they'll regrow new tops?

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oldgardenguy_zone6

I like turnips so I always mix a few in with other cover crops. It's a good day to think of these things just came back in from filling the bird feeders Brrrrrrr!!! windy and 12 above probably colder where you are.

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oldgardenguy_zone6

Found the Ambrosia Bicolor in my last Jung seed catalog I'm putting it on my order list it will be my 2nd crop . I have three generations (wife kids and grandkids ) who always make sure I'm ordering that Kandy Korn. can't wait to try it , I won't tell them it's something different see if they notice.

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gridgardener

jnjfarm_gw the garden for all series predates the joy gardening by several years.

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jnjfarm_gw(5a)

I have some of the pamplets listed . Most of the info is in his books including JOY OF GARDENING.

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Larry Welch

It was suggested to me that anti sprouting chemical could be washed off of super market SPs in order grow slips. Has anyone here done this? I'm tempted to give it a try but wonder if the store would be able to identify the variety on hand.

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thedudefrom1976(6 Long Island NY)

It can't be washes off its soaked through the tuber. That being said a small percentage of tubers resist over time ( maybe the agent wears out???) and sprout anyway. Jean yes its early but I have a grow closet with lights and wanted to get slips growing indoors so that come warm weather I can start a succession planting.

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mushibu10(zone 8 (UK))

sorry for delay in reply. phone konked out.

thank you for the advice. now got the garlic onion and shallot sets all in modual trays to get the going while i finish digging.

now i am aware it is far to late for digging, now cause i cant use the frost to brake up the soil, hoiw can i get it to a fine till (i think the word is) i have a basic soil rake and a leaf rake a metal one. i will be double digging and adding in around 200ltrs of manure as that what i can afford at the moment,. i have bags of odd compost (wont be using the ericatous)that i'll be adding into the soil too.

i have poles from an old broken green house that i;ll be using to build a netting cage. an old child door gaurd that i will be using top grow peas or something else on, old fan covers to use as protection. (about 15" round)

anything else you can advise?

thak you

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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

It is not at all too late to dig, mushibu. Winter digging is traditional but you can do it any time the soil is not frozen and not too wet to work. If you rough dig now there will almost certainly be a couple more days with a frost to help it along. The word you want is 'tilth' and you get it by digging over with a fork, raking lightly with a metal tined rake, not a leaf rake, and by not standing on the soil. After a few years of adding as much compost, etc. as you can get, all it will need is light forking or just stirring up a bit. You'll only need to double dig once. BTW I would never spend money on compost to add to the garden. You do have a compost heap going don't you?

I dug some of my patch over in the mild weather around Christmas but since then I've left it alone. I'll do the rest as I need the ground. Planting some broad beans tomorrow.

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grandad_2003(9A/sunset 28)

Those look plantable to me.

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raymondo17(z9 Sacramento)

Thanks for the feedback. I went ahead and stuck 'em in the ground. I'll report back if they successfully sprout for me.

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Nitsua(6b MO)

Thanks for posting this. I'm quite intrigued by this growing method and have bookmarked your page as I already know I'm going to have to try this some day. It actually appears to be rather easy to do with minimal effort.

Must start saving coffee containers immediately.

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jnjfarm_gw(5a)

Nitsua, look up "mhpgardener " on youtube. He has lots of ideas and his own research on kratkey method.

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davids10 z7a nv.

above the photo it says advice.click that it will take you to a page where on the left side it says garden forums,click that and you're in. and yes it is more convoluted but houzz is a home improvement site that now has a garden feature. that isn't going to change but gw remains the same.

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zzackey(8b GA)

Thanks!

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jeanwedding(6 ky)

I know its different but if everyone leaves how can we learn and help each other??? Please stay yall....

wouldnt it be nice if most gardeners in most places lived near each other so we could share more??? share crops and ideas.... as long as a gardener did not over fertlize etc.....lol

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zzackey(8b GA)

I'm done grumbling. I can get on now using my email. I wasn't able to do that before. Now I can go right to the latest posts. Jean, I checked out 4 other forums and nothing compares to this one.

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gridgardener

you should have manured and covered it with straw.
how deep was raised bed. well given it takes 3 years till harvest for aspoergus.
you have time deal with past mistakes if made one.
As for price that varies from seller to seller.

8 for is not bad but it has been while since priced asparagus plants.

if is good depends on how old the roots are.

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jnjfarm_gw(5a)

you planted it already sounds like. I would have done some research first on how to grow, then picked a spot as this is a perianal and will last many years if properly cared for. It will take at least a year to get production if you have 2-3 year old roots. plant would have waited to be planted. they are shipped by mail all the time

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gridgardener

finally Wayne something i agree with you on the newbie need learn ask question and included lots info in beginning or it is like pulling bad tooth blindfolded.

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

People! These are forums designed to share experience and knowledge. Those that show up TO help should do so willingly and without criticism. Those that show up FOR help should be able to do so without being reprimanded. Participation within the forums is voluntary. If you don't like that novices come armed with little if any knowledge, then don't bother yourself with those people. Skip those posts! I've done it myself.

Find a different venue, one that doesn't cater to those pesky newbies. How dare they stumble into the GardenWeb Forums hoping for some guidance and answers.

We have SO much to share. If someone is not of the mind to help the novices, then don't. Share great info and pictures with the rest of us, but don't make it a mission to drive newcomers away, grid.

This has been a forum where I can expect to find an exchange of ideas, experiments, eye candy, helpful hints. I put on my educator hat because I enjoy that aspect of GardenWeb, but surely understand that others do not.

I'll really have a problem if newcomers are made to feel stupid; if they retreat from here and never return.

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whineathonsoh lord will they never end.
Posted by davids10 z7a nv.
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Eventually!

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gridgardener

maybe you should send them some cheese to go with there whine

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

To know the zone and state or province tells me very much. I can infer most of the rest.

By all means lets keep this dead horse alive!

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gridgardener

wayne with frost date I can tell you a lot whole more. then USDA zone could tell you

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