24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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Larry Welch

It was suggested to me that anti sprouting chemical could be washed off of super market SPs in order grow slips. Has anyone here done this? I'm tempted to give it a try but wonder if the store would be able to identify the variety on hand.

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thedudefrom1976(6 Long Island NY)

It can't be washes off its soaked through the tuber. That being said a small percentage of tubers resist over time ( maybe the agent wears out???) and sprout anyway. Jean yes its early but I have a grow closet with lights and wanted to get slips growing indoors so that come warm weather I can start a succession planting.

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mushibu10(zone 8 (UK))

sorry for delay in reply. phone konked out.

thank you for the advice. now got the garlic onion and shallot sets all in modual trays to get the going while i finish digging.

now i am aware it is far to late for digging, now cause i cant use the frost to brake up the soil, hoiw can i get it to a fine till (i think the word is) i have a basic soil rake and a leaf rake a metal one. i will be double digging and adding in around 200ltrs of manure as that what i can afford at the moment,. i have bags of odd compost (wont be using the ericatous)that i'll be adding into the soil too.

i have poles from an old broken green house that i;ll be using to build a netting cage. an old child door gaurd that i will be using top grow peas or something else on, old fan covers to use as protection. (about 15" round)

anything else you can advise?

thak you

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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

It is not at all too late to dig, mushibu. Winter digging is traditional but you can do it any time the soil is not frozen and not too wet to work. If you rough dig now there will almost certainly be a couple more days with a frost to help it along. The word you want is 'tilth' and you get it by digging over with a fork, raking lightly with a metal tined rake, not a leaf rake, and by not standing on the soil. After a few years of adding as much compost, etc. as you can get, all it will need is light forking or just stirring up a bit. You'll only need to double dig once. BTW I would never spend money on compost to add to the garden. You do have a compost heap going don't you?

I dug some of my patch over in the mild weather around Christmas but since then I've left it alone. I'll do the rest as I need the ground. Planting some broad beans tomorrow.

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grandad_2003(9A/sunset 28)

Those look plantable to me.

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raymondo17(z9 Sacramento)

Thanks for the feedback. I went ahead and stuck 'em in the ground. I'll report back if they successfully sprout for me.

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Nitsua(6b MO)

Thanks for posting this. I'm quite intrigued by this growing method and have bookmarked your page as I already know I'm going to have to try this some day. It actually appears to be rather easy to do with minimal effort.

Must start saving coffee containers immediately.

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jnjfarm_gw(5a)

Nitsua, look up "mhpgardener " on youtube. He has lots of ideas and his own research on kratkey method.

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davids10 z7a nv.

above the photo it says advice.click that it will take you to a page where on the left side it says garden forums,click that and you're in. and yes it is more convoluted but houzz is a home improvement site that now has a garden feature. that isn't going to change but gw remains the same.

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zzackey(8b GA)

Thanks!

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jeanwedding(6 ky)

I know its different but if everyone leaves how can we learn and help each other??? Please stay yall....

wouldnt it be nice if most gardeners in most places lived near each other so we could share more??? share crops and ideas.... as long as a gardener did not over fertlize etc.....lol

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zzackey(8b GA)

I'm done grumbling. I can get on now using my email. I wasn't able to do that before. Now I can go right to the latest posts. Jean, I checked out 4 other forums and nothing compares to this one.

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gridgardener

you should have manured and covered it with straw.
how deep was raised bed. well given it takes 3 years till harvest for aspoergus.
you have time deal with past mistakes if made one.
As for price that varies from seller to seller.

8 for is not bad but it has been while since priced asparagus plants.

if is good depends on how old the roots are.

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jnjfarm_gw(5a)

you planted it already sounds like. I would have done some research first on how to grow, then picked a spot as this is a perianal and will last many years if properly cared for. It will take at least a year to get production if you have 2-3 year old roots. plant would have waited to be planted. they are shipped by mail all the time

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gridgardener

finally Wayne something i agree with you on the newbie need learn ask question and included lots info in beginning or it is like pulling bad tooth blindfolded.

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

People! These are forums designed to share experience and knowledge. Those that show up TO help should do so willingly and without criticism. Those that show up FOR help should be able to do so without being reprimanded. Participation within the forums is voluntary. If you don't like that novices come armed with little if any knowledge, then don't bother yourself with those people. Skip those posts! I've done it myself.

Find a different venue, one that doesn't cater to those pesky newbies. How dare they stumble into the GardenWeb Forums hoping for some guidance and answers.

We have SO much to share. If someone is not of the mind to help the novices, then don't. Share great info and pictures with the rest of us, but don't make it a mission to drive newcomers away, grid.

This has been a forum where I can expect to find an exchange of ideas, experiments, eye candy, helpful hints. I put on my educator hat because I enjoy that aspect of GardenWeb, but surely understand that others do not.

I'll really have a problem if newcomers are made to feel stupid; if they retreat from here and never return.

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whineathonsoh lord will they never end.
Posted by davids10 z7a nv.
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Eventually!

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gridgardener

maybe you should send them some cheese to go with there whine

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

To know the zone and state or province tells me very much. I can infer most of the rest.

By all means lets keep this dead horse alive!

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gridgardener

wayne with frost date I can tell you a lot whole more. then USDA zone could tell you

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prairiemoon2 z6 MA

'Sungold' Tomatoes have been the one variety of vegetable that have made it into every vegetable garden since we first tried them. Best tasting tomato I've grown and rarely make it to the table, because of snacking in the garden.

'Gonzales' Cabbage - a miniature that takes up only 10" so I can fit 4 across in our 4ft wide raised bed. Easy to grow, the size of a softball and just enough for one large bowl of cole slaw. Just right for us. Very happy with this variety and growing it for the 2nd time this year.

'Ministro' Cucumber - out of the FEDCO catalog last year, wow. Cucumber after cucumber for a long time. No trouble at all. Last year was 1st year for this variety too, so hoping to repeat this success this season.

'Sugar Snap' Peas, a winner. Very sweet, healthy and productive. I like that they grow tall and I can use all the height of my trellis.

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nanelle_gw (usda 9/Sunset 14)(9/Sunset 14)

Another vote for "Sugar Snap" peas. I have also tried various short and tall snap pea versions, including "Super Sugar Snap". Sugar Snap" for the win.

I would add Sungold but we ate them until we were sick. Think cherries in "Witches of Eastwick". But I still grow them.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Not sure why you would want to paint terracotta to begin with but I don't see an problem with using them if you do.

Dave

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

You're concerned about toxicity, I assume? The paint shouldn't be an issue because you'll be sealing both surfaces before you apply any paint. The inside, especially, will need to be made water impermeable. Leave the bottom untreated, though, would be my advice.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Wow that's a lot to fit into that small space. The notch entry faces west, right? I'd put the tomatoes along the back wall trellis so they don't shade everything else, the squash on the north side trellis, all the peppers in the south end, and find somewhere else out of the garden for the melons. It all depends on how many plants of each you want.

You could space 4 (maybe 5) tomato plants on that back wall, maybe 4 pepper plants in the south block, and 2 squash plants in the north end block.

Hope that helps.

Dave

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mmckey2(8b)

definitely helps. perhaps I should have been more clear, I do not plan to plant all of the same things in here again this year. I definitely want to do tomatoes and bell peppers again. the rest I will likely plant somewhere else, especially the melons. open to suggestions on anything else, was thinking maybe some carrots in front of some of the others where I don't have trellises.

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BahamaDan ZTropic

Sounds very fancy Jorgen! You must be quite experienced with different cultures then. I have lived for a few years in Mississippi, US but have moved back home for college. And always good to have access to free organics! Seaweed is also very good for our local soils; a few years ago I used that along with the horse manure for the bananas. I never washed it (with our rainy season and porous soils I saw no need) and the plants did fine. And yes I know the soil here is very poor; it is a continuous struggle but I have seen people have good success here with raised beds.

You are quite welcome; please keep us updated of your progress. Here is my first banana flower in 2012 from a plant that was put in native soil and fed nothing except deep mulching with horse manure and seaweed.

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BahamaDan ZTropic

Forgot to mention that I have not tried out the raised beds yet but have had some success with containers which also do very well here, and you can move them around to get the amount of sun best for the plants (eg. southern side of house if needing full sun, easter or western side if our full sun is too strong for the plant).

Tomatillo:

Adenium:

Soursop/Guanabana seedlings:

Pineapple:

Jalapenos:

Kale:

You get the idea; I would post more but I think I have reached the limit for photos per post ;)

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balloonflower(5b Denver CO)

Berfy--As one very familiar with growing herbs, with that little direct sun you are limited on the most well known culinary ones. Basil, while it may not like full Texas midsummer sun, does require more than dappled shade for less than 4 hours per day. You may get some small plants if there's enough reflective light, but they'll probably not thrive. On the other hand, it's easy and cheap to seed so may be worth trying spring or fall when the tree isn't fully shading. Otherwise, cilantro or mints (inc lemon balm), chives, parsley may be worth a try. The arid Mediterranean types like rosemary, thyme, oregano, etc need more sun. Lots of trial and error in your future--don't give up! Try the leafy greens and peas for starters (this year I'll be trying a dwarf container pea called half pint).

On the secondary topic of zones, they do have usefulness for basic info. Yes, there is a lot of variation in climate between different locations zoned the same, but they do provide some good basic starting point info. The more of that type we have, the more useful our answers can be--that's why we ask, and those who seem to know the most will continue to ask and have found the way to include that in their name.

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Wow. Sunset Climate Zones. I was not aware of these, and they seem quite nice. As they say on their website ...

"A plant's performance is governed by the total climate: length of growing season, timing and amount of rainfall, winter lows, summer highs, wind, and humidity.
Sunset's climate zone maps take all these factors into account, unlike the familiar hardiness zone maps devised by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which divides most of North America into zones based strictly on winter lows.

The U.S.D.A. maps tell you only where a plant may survive the winter; our climate zone maps let you see where that plant will thrive year-round."

That's precisely what I've been saying.

Also, I see that the Houzz folks are listening hard to us, and have included a text field for garden zones in their Advanced Settings. Thanks! I need to fill that in for myself. Now as I've been saying, inclusion of some identification of garden zone is a great idea. The question is what text provides the best identification.

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