24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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beesneeds(zone 6)

prariemoon-

Do I use dill in the kitchen? Yes and yes! It's one of my top three herbs that I use the most of. For pickling, sure. But dill has a great way of perking up most herb things the way lemon has a way of perking up with a touch of acid. We eat a lot of fish, so dill often is a seasoning there- and I make tartar sauce, and that always has dill. And stew and soups can benefit from a pinch or few dried to a small handful fresh- not enough to give a dill flavor, but to enhance the other herbs. Dill is part of my homemade ranch mix, and is in a lot of my cold pasta salads. Handfuls of it in homemade dill dip to go with raw veggies. It's yummy in scrambled eggs- and great with cooked spinach. Tuna salad and egg salad for sandwiches too. It pairs well with a lot of mild white cheeses as a topper and garnish. In the summer, we always have a tub of cottage cheese seasoned with dill, pepper, salt, and parsley in the fridge for a quick and cool nourishing snack. It's great with a lot of cucumber dishes and salads too.

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prairiemoon2 z6 MA

Thanks, Beesneeds, Those are a lot of great ideas for some way to use more dill. I'm sure I can try at least a couple of them. :-) It seems like such a waste to have a steady supply and not use it.

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gridgardener

yes and lots compost. planting legumes is common choice.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Corn is a big nitrogen user especially, and just as with all crops it also uses P and K and micro-nutrients and minerals. So yes you would need to refresh all that after harvesting it for the next crop to succeed. Just as with ALL succession planting, the soil needs amending.

The form of the replacement is your choice. What you use as the follow-up crop may all depend on your location, your zone, and the DTM of that crop. Some would recommend beans as they don't require (or tolerate) lots of nitrogen but with well amended soil you can plant the crop of your choice.

Dave

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greenman62

." Why wouldn't you just plant them in potting mix "

it would be a tad bit harder to find and recover all the seeds, germinated or not...

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"Also curious as to why you didn't also plant some seeds directly in a seed starting or potting mix."

I wanted to plant some melons.

i had read that fulvic acid increases the ability to uptake minerals.

most people start their seeds in either paper towels, or in a soil-less media. in that respect, a paper towel shouldn't be much different, but, that would be a different experiment anyway.

My intent was to see if fulvic acid really made a difference. i had some worm castings, so, i was curious how they would stack up against the water and fulvic.

i also didnt start any in pure sand. i wanst trying to test every media.

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As fas as why i said i would use fulvic acid when it has a lower germ rate...

i want a healthy , strong seedling.

i dont need to maximize the number of seedlings that germinate.

if i really want more than one plant, then, i can plant 20 seeds.

my end goal is healthy strong plants

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

I sow canteloupe seeds, and the majority of my other veggie seeds directly into the garden and expect (and get) a germination rate so close to 100% that I never notice the duds.

For those that I start early for transplanting, the seeds are sown densely into heated seed flats until germinated, then transplanted directly into cell packs to grow under lights. 100% of my cells packs are filled with robust little seedlings.

My garden soil is mostly dense red clay amended occasionally with free wood chips. My germination medium is coarser than most, probably, and my preferred mix for the cell packs comes from Fafard....quite porous and fast draining.

I have to say that I have never understood why people germinate in paper towels, etc. That's not at all a criticism in any way. It's obvious that there are many ways to get the job done and we each will employ what we believe to be most efficient and successful and satisfying.

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dave_f1 SC, USDA Zone 8a(7b)

Some people grow 3 plantings, with 2 weeks between sowings. Or you can plant all at same time, but with varieties with different maturity dates. I grow melons next to my early corn planting so the vines can ramble in there after the corn harvest.

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I grow 7 plantings with about 10 days between.

I suggest a good rotation time for melons...melons tend to have more sicknesses than anything else I know.

And no, I don't plant a second planting in the same place, but rather I plant a cover crop following the first 6 plantings.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

12" spacing is pretty standard so in 4x8 bed I'd plant 20 as you can't plant right next to the frame edges and you want to leave some room for replacing any that don't survive.

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

I started with a dozen, got antsy, planted another dozen and all are doing well. Just saw my first baby come up the other day! Nancy

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SunshineZone7(7)

I knew the soil temp would be cooler than air temp outside. However, I made the assumption (maybe a poor one) that the soil in a 3oz starter cup would be about the same temp as the air temp in a house. How much different could the soil temp be?

Thanks again for all the responses :)

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

How much different? The thermal conductivity of soil is very different from that of air. How much difference and the duration of that difference depends on the type of soil, the degree of compaction, the volume of soil, and the type of heat used. In a container outside the average is 5-10 degrees cooler than surrounding air temps, indoors can be as much as 15 degrees cooler. If watered with cool water then it will be even colder.

Dave

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tabbycat(8b swGa)

Nice!

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I don't care to get retinue e-mails either. Still, I liked the Dave's Garden D mail which were person to person mail that stayed with the site.

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

If you post in a discussion, you will be automatically "following" a post, such that notification of comments will be e-mailed to you, as per the frequency directives that Humsi was talking about. Those directives are for ALL e-mails, from ALL discussions. But at the bottom of the discussion that you have posted in, there is, in little green letters, a clickable link "Click to switch off notification about new comments >". If you simply want to turn off notifications for that discussion. Click that. This seems to work fine. As noted above, I just wish that the default was that you DON'T follow a discussion you contributed to, and select if you wanted to. That's the way it was in the old GW.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree with sunnibel7 and find that the main causes of problems with hardening off is either (a) plants that were started far too early and so are less tolerant of hardening and transplanting, and (b) starting the hardening off process far too early. It isn't the size or age of the plants that should determine when to harden-off, it is when is the planting time?

Planting dates are determined before seeds are even started and other than weather at that time which we can't control, you start hardening off a few days to a week before planting time. If you can't plant until May 15th (for example) why would you start hardening off May 1 ? Rather wait till May 12th when the weather will likely allow the plants to go in the shade and just stay there until planting time. Bringing them in and out and in and out only stresses the plants and defeats the point of hardening.

Check out the FAQ here that describes how to use various containers like a laundry basket under a shade tree to harden off. Even a cardboard box works. The goal isn't direct sun exposure, it is air temp, UV, and wind acclimation.

Dave

PS: Hardening off Discussions and FAQs

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ZachS. z5 Littleton, CO

Here's what I do and it generally works pretty good.

I don't babysit the plants. I simply refuse to do it. When it's time to start moving them outdoors, they go outdoors all day starting day number 1. I put them in a real shady spot for the first couple days then a spot that gets dappled shade, then partial sun, etc etc. I don't play the "hours" game I don't have time for that lol. All day, everyday (unless the weather turns sour).

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

As I said in my previous comment, I do have other beds elsewhere that I haven't shown. :) And while I do enjoy drawing up the plans and try to stick to them as best I can, there is almost always a some kind of problem.

Rodney

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jagdjh

I must admit I did most of it just to get through winter. The biggest thing it did was let me know how many different plants I should get. Before I made the diagram, I had about 5 more different pepper seeds, and about 3 more tomato seeds. After making the diagram, I knew I had to eliminate some choices, which wasn't easy :).

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gridgardener
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

jnjfarm, were you able to get signed in?

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Looks good! I was wondering how it was going to turn out.

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

Yes, I had mentioned that clustering related garden forums was a desirable thing. One forum missing there still is Soil and Compost...and please remove giant vegetables

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gridgardener

Soil and Compos

t is still there you just need look under organic gardening tab

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vanisle_bc

In order to identify the female plants I think you'd have to grow them to seed bearing age (3 years?) - and you might want to make sure they don't get a chance to drop potentially-female seed before weeding them out. Some writers suggest you don't want any seed to drop anyway, to avoid overcrowding the bed with new volunteer plants.

As for shipping across borders, many US companies do ship seed to Canada but I haven''t found any willing to ship asparagus root. Whether that's because they're prohibited, and whether it also applies to other plants, I don't know.

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vanisle_bc

Please ignore this comment - it's only a personal test of how the new website works

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illiveggies

The front of my house faces east, and none of the plants that require full sun do very well in the front. Those that can stand partial shade do better.

My guess is that you would get some harvest, and that might make you happy, but if you have other options, might be better to invest the money for the raised bed somewhere that gets more sun.

One other point to note - the front beds take much longer to dry out after a rain - again, this might be an advantage or a disadvantage, depending on what you plant, and your drainage.

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annehay

The location of the sun sounds good to me. My garden sits in a similar position. I just wanted to add that raised beds need more water because the soil dries out faster in hot temperatures. Also, if the yard slopes away from the house, your water will presumably run off as well (I assume the landscaping is designed for this). So be sure to water with some frequency.

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