24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree. The odds are 9 to 1 that what you have is one of the hybrid varieties simply because they are far more common. Plus asparagus seeds have a very low germination rate and the greens will be the dominate gene so what you get, if anything, will most likely be green.

You will have much better results, faster production, and better quality if you just invest in some additional crowns and plant them instead.

Dave

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balljoint

Understood. I will start by checking my invoice to see what variety I paid for.

The seeds will still get planted because, well, it's fun. I will note germination rates as well as colour results.

Thank you for the responses.

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

I planted out my leeks on April 9 last year, April 5 the year before. Actually did the artichokes at about the same time, maybe a week later. Both did fine, no need to wait until last frost. Cheers!

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laceyvail(6A, WV)

If leeks get too much cold weather when they're young, they think they've been through a Mediterranean winter and they bolt.

Seen it several years when we have one of our spring freezes here in WV.

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mrdoitall(7)

This is what pin rot looks like....The tissue becomes soft and gives off a very bad odor.

Here is a link that might be useful: SalinasValleyAgriculture

This post was edited by mrdoitall on Sat, Jan 10, 15 at 5:39

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jennieboyer(8)

Thank you - I didn't see anything like this, so don't think that's my issue. Not sure what in the world, but hopefully won't have it again.

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zzackey(8b GA)

Thanks for all of the ideas! I like the cornmeal, egg shells and coffee ground ideas the best. The tooth picks sound good too.

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zzackey(8b GA)

Thanks for all of the ideas! I like the cornmeal, egg shells and coffee ground ideas the best. The tooth picks sound good too.

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

I'm probably not going to be very popular, BUT.... I had a bed that had great soil, but had hardware cloth( wire very strong and spaced very close together) already in place from crops before we planted our gus.
We ended up planting it just about 6" deep and topping it with tons of compost (as we do each year!).
This is not the optimal way of planting asparagus, but for our situation, it has worked very well!
The gus is ever expanding, and we almost have too much! (NoNo! Never mind! Gus soup is in the freezer!) Nancy

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harryshoe zone6 eastern Pennsylvania

I won't be planting until March. I was just taking advantage of a warm December to prepare a new garden space.

I have a large supply of good garden soil from my previous vegetable garden which will no longer be used. It is a raised lasagna-style bed loaded with rich, wormy, black soil. One way or another, that soil will end up in this new garden.

I don't have rodent problems because of the feral cats living in my back yard.

Thanks

Harry

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tishtoshnm Zone 6/NM

If it is the bag stuffed, it is likely not hot and should have been consulted before you bought it. I think it would be fine to use. If it was coming straight out of a coop, then a couple of weeks would not be long enough.

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Thanks tishtosh. Yeah, I wouldn't think the bagged stuff would be too hot. The reason why I asked was sometimes there's a "little" bit of warmth to those bagged manures.

Kevin

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nugrdnnut(6a n-c WA)

My (limited) experience is that I winter sow brassica seeds in January. They will sprout when mother nature nudges them to. Last year I planted in raised beds 3 weeks prior to average last frost. They (cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower) all did well. I sowed seeds for the fall crop ~ the 7th of July. I had nice fall crops of cauliflower and broccoli, but the cabbage didn't have enough time to form. I may sow seeds this year 1.5 - 3 weeks earlier for cabbage and probably 1 week sooner for the other 2.

For you, you will want to know your average last freeze (spring) and average first freeze (fall) and sow & plant accordingly.

Also see link below to winter sowing.

regards,
tom

Here is a link that might be useful: wintersowing FAQ

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planatus(6)

The planting dates are really confusing and hard to believe. As others have said, cabbage and broccoli can be double-cropped in 6B, with spring crops seeded indoors in late Feb, and fall crops seeded in early July. Cauliflower seeds need to be started in early July, too.

I have never gotten decent B sprouts or cauliflower from spring plantings. I now start B sprout seeds the first week of June; the plants bear in November.

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oneshotveth

Yep. Just came back to say I found that forum. Sorry everyone.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Not a problem. :)

Dave

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Deeby

If you decide against towels I sure hope you'll take them to the pound/shelter. Dogs lay on the bare cold cement inside the cages. I know this for a fact. Just donated three old comforters. Pounds always need blankets, towels, quilts, and comforters.

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

If rain isn't in the forecast while you're on vacation it might be easier just to throw a tarp or a sheet of plastic over the garden. That it as long as you don't have any desirable plants growing.

Rodney

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grandad_2003(9A/sunset 28)

jennieboyer, I generally watch the cauliflower florets at the base of the head and look for separation. I try to catch it when they just start to separate. This is not always easy to see, especially for the self blanching cauliflowers...Below is a Candied Charm head that is noticeably separated.

Here is a Candied Charm head that is just starting to separate.

Here is a Romanesco Veronica head that is showing first hints of separation. Its a bit hard to see - look close at the bottom florets. I picked it because we are supposed to reach 20 degrees in the AM and I did not want to take a chance on an essentially ready-to-pick head This is my first year growing the Romanesco Veronica and I'm not sure of it's hardiness. I have several smaller heads and will soon know of their hardiness.


. But as noted above by farmerdill it's really a matter of preference.

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

grandad: those are just about perfect.. any more separation and one has waited too long.

Jennie: I wouldn't let FULL size interfere with harvesting a week or so prior to that potential. Better a week early than a week late. :

Kevin

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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

why havent you shown us a pic of the inside ... drooling too much after cutting them open.. to pick the camera back up ... lol...

any observations as to rind thickness etc???

ken

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gregplantaine7(7a)

The skin was around 1/2 inch thick or less. The rest was the edible orange area.

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

bella-trix, I have raised Nancy Hall many times. I kind of like it as I prefer yellow over orange , red, and white ones. Nancy Hall is sweet but a bit grainy. O'Henry is a yellow that is very smooth. Steele Plants carries both.

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fusion_power

Since this is an older thread, I'll suggest two varieties that are not mentioned. Bradshaw is one of the best flavored orange sweet potatoes I've grown. Covington is a recent release that is also an excellent sweet potato.

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djkj(9b)

Thank you, I have done that!

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zeuspaul(9b SoCal)

I have Reed, Pinkerton, Fuerte and Hass. Hass is the most reliable producer, has very good flavor and hangs well on the tree.

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livewombat

I wasn't trying to overwinter eggplants, but I had one that was growing nicely in a 2-gallon grow bag and had unripe fruit on it. After the eggplants ripened and were harvested, I cut off the foliage and neglected the plant on a windowsill with a plant light running on a timer for another plant. The eggplant promptly put up new shoots, and I started watering it once in a while. Now in early January, it is looking full and vigorous. I am curious enough to keep watering it and see where this leads.

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

We had a somewhat unpredicted "hard freeze" last week -- temps of 28F, and I didn't have a chance to protect my peppers (jalapenos) and eggplants (ichiban). which I was thinking about keeping over the winter. Both were doing fine in temps of 30-40F. The peppers did well in the freeze -- no damage at all, but the eggplants were half-killed. In fact, the peppers were more exposed, and the eggplants were on the south side of the house. I ended up pulling the latter. Comes as a bit of a surprise that the eggplants seem to be a lot less frost tolerant than the peppers. I would have thought they'd both be about the same in that regard, but that they're not is consistent with what I'm reading here.

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lantanascape(z6 Idaho)

1. Only plant ONE cherry tomato plant, and give it 4x4' to itself.
2. Keep it simple, stupid
3. Plant more cabbages and don't bother with Brussels sprouts
4. Get soakers or drip lines installed first thing, and mulch heavily to keep the watering labor under control.
5. Don't plant so many summer crops; leave room for fall crops
6. Be prepared with mulch or row covers in case of freak early winter weather like we had in November.

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elisa_z5

These were fun and inspiring to read.

Good luck, everyone, in 2015!

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