23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Slimy - Link below is to NCHFP (Natl. Center for Home Food Preservation) and all their data on storage times for various forms of storage. It should cover all the items on your list. It also has tips on packing things to use (ie: wet sand, burlap, etc.) to extend the storage life.
Like cold_weather said, we old timers used a root cellar and it is good for months for most all root vegetables (not leafy greens) of storage but the average temp in a RC is 40-45 degrees so it's more like a fridge.
But if you can drop even a few degrees below 50 you'll increase the store time exponentially.
And don't forget dehydrating for even longer storage - root crops will dehydrate and reconstitute really well.
Check out the harvest forum for even more info on methods of food preservation and storage.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: NCHFP - Food Storage Guides
As i posted on another thread of yours IF Bacterial Wilt is what you have - and there are ways to get a definitive diagnosis - then what you can grow in that area without first treating the soil will be severely limited.
BW has at least two or three different bacteria that cause the disease and that allows it to affect many different crops depending on which of the bacteria is in your soil.
It can infect all of the cucurbit family, many of the squash varieties, all of the solanaceous crops, and even many grasses.
So once the diagnosis is confirmed extensive treatment that includes intensive long-term solarization, beneficial nematodes, and acidification of the soil is recommended before planting anything there.
Lots of info with both making the diagnosis and treating the soil is available from your local county ag extension and online too.
Dave
I think proactive scheduled spraying for Powdery Mildew and tomato Blight are important to prevent it from happening I am talking about my own situation. Pest/insects control is a different issue. In most cases you have to identify it first and then fight it.
I have already sprayed my tomato plants with neem oil once. I will do it in another 2 weeks or so. With squash, cucumbers I will also do it bi weekly.
So it really depend on your situation and what you are growing.
Let's not forget to stay on top of resistant varieties, as the original poster mentioned. I won't grow a cuke that's not resistant to PM and bacterial wilt, and my tomatoes are evenly divided between OPs and the latest blight-resistant hybrids, which are amazing.
zackey: if it's still there, I'm sure it's still installed. But, to check --- tools, add-ons, extensions.
I'm thinking malware. Download malwarebytes free version and do a scan. If it doesn't get it, download combofix and run it.
Kevin
Do you mean ABP (AdBlock Plus)?
If it is installed and you're still getting pop-ups, follow Woohooman's advice and install the FREE Malwarebytes, then run a scan.
Get it directly from its home site, and make sure you get the FREE version, not the Trial or paid(Premium) one...
Here is a link that might be useful: Malwarebytes
It didn't really frost this month, but it has been cold and wet many days, a continuation of the cold winter. What confuses me is that it is just the 'Golden Summer' and 'Red Belt' plants from one nursery. They were fine last week. The oldest leaves are fine also.
Maybe the nursery had them out in the frost? Dunno. Odd that damage wasn't apparent at time of purchase if it is frost damage.
Like I mentioned before, just clip those affected leaves and look out for new foliage before pulling them.
Kevin
No you don't have to use rows. Many folks use Sq Foot gardening guidelines but don't use Mel's Mix in the bed. You can plant just as Sq foot does and work more nutrients into each square or you can reduce the number you put in each square. It is up to you. But either way you will have to add more nutrients to what you have so far.
And if you are direct seeding then all you have to do if it looks overcrowded after they germinate is just thin the plants out. Even as they grow if it gets over crowded remove a couple. Don't over-complicate the process. Nothing says once planted it has to stay there if it is creating problems. Pull it so the others can do well.
Dave
Planting in native ground is very hit and miss. For example, a few years back I started trying to grow vegetables for the first time.I planted Radishes and they were growing and getting leafy. The problem is that they weren't bulbing up ever. A year later, I tried again with another area, and the Radishes did really well! So native soil can be hit and miss.
Environmental damage - sun scald/wind burn. Both common in spring plantings depending on where you are located - which would be nice to include in the space provided for best info.
Poses no long term harm to the plants unless they weren't well hardened off prior to planting.
Dave
The sun damage would be consistent with our weather ��" there have been a few consecutive sunny days lately and until then the plants had been in a sunroom waiting for nighttime temperatures to drop.
I filled in the zone box. Missed it when posting from my phone and didn't even think about the importance. Hopefully it doesn't show much more about me other than being new to the art.
Thank you all! Looking forward to learning a lot more this summer.
Dave
There is no law of gardening that says you must add fertilizer before planting. :) Many gardeners never do it first.
Besides different crops need different nutrients and some need them at different times so even if you had added it you'll still need to add more later too.
No need to be concerned. The seeds will do fine until after they come up anyway and then you can feed them with liquids or whatever you want.
Google 'side dressing plants with fertilizer'.
Dave
You can top dress granular (regular and slow release) and also feed with water soluble ANY TIME during the season. Actually, IMO, this way you get a bigger bang for the buck, by delivering it where and when it is needed.
This post was edited by seysonn on Sat, May 24, 14 at 7:17