24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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foreignlady (5b - Montreal area)

Well, I did eat one and it was very nice, but the skin is rather tough. I think I'll do relish then, hadn't even thought of that! Thanks for your help. And wishing I had chickens I could feed too!

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foreignlady (5b - Montreal area)
FYI they turned into some marvellous relish. Thanks again.
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pmarrie

I have the exact same situation, mine are as hot as my fresno peppers. Have grown Jimmy Nardello's for years and never been this hot. I don't remember if I bought the sends or saved them from last year. Wondering if they will cross breed with my other peppers I grow.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

You might want to post this over on the Hot peppers forum. That's where the pepper experts hang out.

Dave

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/pepper

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jnjfarm_gw(5a)

need thinned out. I put mine in 30" wide beds about 18" equidistant apart. cabbage same way. If I grew cauliflower I would also plant that way. I would also trellis those peas. You have more than enough broc plants to cover a huge area

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

Stirey, you need to become acquainted with your Ohio Extension office, if you haven't already. Local information is extremely important.

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Tracy West

Kabocha are my favorite squash. Will c.maxima do okay in the southeast?

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rgreen48(7a)

Tracy, there are many heirloom maximas that were found in this area of the country. They do very well in most of the SE. Perhaps some better than others, but they love the sun, and the SE has plenty.

However, we also have thriving colonies of pests. The SVB has 2 generations per season, and is even now, in late August, still a threat (I saw one on my N. Georgia Candy Roasters just yesterday.) Unfortunately, the maxima is one of their favored targets. There are also cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and maybe a few others.

That said... find your fav for next season and, in the spring, plant away! If you have the acreage, and to ensure a good harvest, you may want to over-plant. Or, you can learn some defensive techniques. In either case, I find that all squash do pretty well... at least here in E. Tn.

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grandad_2003(9A/sunset 28)

I had similar results in my zone 9 climate... until I started planting in late August and more-so during September. (You might also have bad seed.)

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Tracy West

Cilantro in grocery stores is probably grown in cooled greenhouses,maybe hydroponically, except in winter,when they grow it outdoors in the south.

It's very cool season, a lot like arugula that way. In AZ,usually I had it in November and January.

if it's not germinating,maybe you're planting too deep or not keeping the moisture consistent?

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

The OP was about community gardens.

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jnjfarm_gw(5a)

a 10 x 10 area planned out and using succession planting can produce a ton of food. I am an urban farmer and 1 of my plots is only 20 x20. I am in my 3rd and 4th planting on this plot now. I have sold hundreds of dollars of radishes, green onions, lettuce mixes cucumbers tomatoes peppers and have replanted with fall beets turnips lettuce mixes and more radishes. This is my smallest plot but most productive and profitable per square foot

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

For me, it's about doing it right versus doing what works. There's a lot of that going around!

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jnjfarm_gw(5a)

I use regular potting mix for seed starting and to fill grow bags. I even reuse the contents from the grow bags. mix with new mix and add fertilizer. It may not be the right way, but it works and saves money.

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

I go to a seed exchange/bank that is all organic and all the seed is from plants grown in this county. Yes I AM lucky! Nancy

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jnjfarm_gw(5a)

The concept sounds good, but I would prefer to know exactly what the variety of the seeds are. as a market gardener I can't afford mid season surprises.

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charlieboring

Here is an update on my chokes. Here are 5 of my 11 plants. I have both globe and imperial. So far I have 15 artichokes on the 11 plants.

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Tracy West

Looks great ,Charlie! I didn't get any started this year. We moved to NC and I'm hoping they like it better here. I had good luck in AZ, although aphids were always an issue. They weren't as meaty as store bought,maybe due to soil,heat or aphids.

once you get one going, it's easy to dive for more. Mine went dormant in AZ each summer and each winter.

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farmerdill

Concur; White melons and Jubilee is considered a white melon do not turn an obvious yellow on the bottom. Thumping works butit takes a good ear and you need an unripe melon to compare the sound.

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usnea

Belated thanks! Alas, I don't have a good ear. Funnily enough I wondered if maybe these watermelons didn't get yellow on the bottom so tried looking up Jubilee specifically and all the sites said to look for yellow on the bottom, lol.

I think maybe I left the first on the vine too long; it doesn't taste that great to me, kind of woody maybe, but I'm not that big a fan of watermelons really. Others say they're really good but I can' tell if they're just being nice. I actually grew 'em more for my father. I had 2 others ready at the same time and gave 'em away. One weighed 30 pounds so I'm guessing the big one I gave to my father must have weighed 35 or so lol.

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Let me add that with regard to watering, my understanding is that overwatering can induce cracks, and it can also make the melons less sweet, as the melon juices get diluted. People seem to say that a good strategy is to withhold water a week before harvest for maximally sweet melons. I frankly don't understand that, as my melon vines are going to have lots of melons on them of all different sizes, and if I start withholding water to sweeten the big ones, it isn't helping the small ones. Anyone understand that strategy?

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ilovecucumbers Zone 6b, NE PA

Interesting thin about the Savors--they were all different sizes as you can see in my photo. But despite their variety of sizes, all were ripe--the bigger ones more aromatic, the flesh a tad softer, but even the smaller ones were intensely flavorful and pleasant-smelling. Mine never turned the shad of yellow in the video before they split, though.

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jocoyn

I need to look into surround but the pickleworms go for the flowers big time as well as for the growing tips. I do spray my flowers with spinosad but ONLY the outside of those a few days before blooming not the day before..it does seem to help but .............

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mauldintiger

So I have a new solution for my butternut types, ladies knee high hose. Lot of work,but it's working so far. Slide the hose over the squash, it's very stretchy and allows the fruit to grow normally. $.89 per pair at the grocery here in upstate SC.

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CloningHow do I clone my plants? I'm expecially interested how to clone VFTs.
Posted by Smugung Smungung(Zone 6)
4 Comments
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Smugung Smungung(Zone 6)

What is layering?

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stevie
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

I've never noticed that older seeds tend to produce weaker plants. Of course, I only store seeds for a few years. Maybe you start to see effects on weak/slow growth with *really* old seeds?

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

I've seen reduced vigor and smaller and weaker seedlings with old tomato seeds. I've had the seeds for about 10 years and there is no way of knowing how old they were before I got them. Once the weak seedlings reach the first or second true leaf stage and start getting some fertilizer/nutrients they begin growing well.

Seeds just a few years old don't usually show any reduction of vigor or strength. Although the germination rates will start falling.

Rodney

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elisa_z5

Yes, definitely use the vacuum end on the bugs themselves once you've got an infestation. But early in the season, perusing the undersides of the leaves with duct tape and "sticking off" the eggs works wonders.

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Well, I'll lug my shop vac out ONCE to coat the plants with DE. But if you're just going to be plucking mature bugs, get a mini-vac and do it that way every time you go out there. If you do the former, ideally you'll never have to do the latter.

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