24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ralleia(z5 Omaha, NE)

What temperatures are you trying to grow them at? It's true that greens are a cool season crop. I googled to find the precise temperature, and Clemson U. says that lettuce prefers to grow at temperatures from 55 to 65 degrees F. I would think that 60F would be a reasonable compromise between the plants' growing preferences and the desire for quick growth.

The lighting depends on the type of lighting used. I prefer fluorescent tube shoplights on everything--brassicas, greens, nightshade seedlings, etc. They're inexpensive, readily available, and have a good lumen to watt ratio. It's also pretty much impossible to burn your plants. I hang them on chains from S-hooks and adjust them every day or so to make sure they're practically touching the leaves. Someday they'll make LEDs in the right red for plant growth, and then I'll switch over to those.

Some varieties of plants absolutely need light to germinate. I read that the light-seeded lettuces do, and you would have to undertake a complete researching of every type of green that you intend to grow to make sure that that variety doesn't need light. So I for one wouldn't go with no lights at all. Besides, unless you are very disciplined about checking them, there exists a good possibility that you will miss noticing that a few have germinated, and they'll be spindly weak little things searching in vain for a light source by the time that you hit the switch. Maybe you could compromise by leaving on just one bank of lights? It would make it easier to spot germination anyhow.

I wouldn't place the lights too close while trying to germinate. You'll be trying to have a good balance between warm but not too warm, and moist, but not damp to get the fastest possible germination. Everything germinates faster at warmer temperatures, ( 70 or 77 degrees, say), however the germination RATE of the cool-loving crops can drop precipitously at these temperatures.

For example, according to one source, spinach has a 96% germination rate at 41F, but takes 22.5 days to germinate at those temps. Raise the temperature to 77 degrees and you'll get germination in 5.1 days, but only 28% germination.

Parsley is simply slow-growing, and it is biennial, so I certainly wouldn't try growing it as an annual and harvesting the whole plant. Instead, I would have a permanent patch of them going and just harvest off the patch, allowing the individual plants to regrow continually. You don't have your climate zone information showing, but depending on your climate I would try to keep the parsley going outside. I have a permanent patch that seeds itself every year, and am working on establishing a patch in my greenhouse under double protection for winter use. They're one of the toughest of the cold-tolerant plants.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
theripetomatofarm(Zone 9)

It's funny reading this thread 4 years later and seeing people ask "what are micro greens?" Ha ha.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ltilton

Lime is alkaline - high pH. Acid is low.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mountstreet7

Hi everyone, I have a product that can be sprayed on a lawn and will kill all onion weed (and no harm to the grass) in one, maximum two applications (if infestation is very extensive).

I am in the process of commercialization - to be a specialized service where a contractor would come and spray for you or to sell for people to home spray.

As such I was going to ask the forum what they thought about pricing for this service/product and if there would be a demand for this.

Thank you for your help.

Regards, David

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
lazy_gardens

To get large roots, you need a large area ... which means that square foot gardening and yams will not work very well.

Containers have to be large enough to allow unrestricted root growth.

It might be a better use of your limited space to grow leafy crops and herbs. Buy yams from people who have the room to grow them.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
glib(5.5)

For mice/voles, I think the only viable, sustainable remedy is hanging barn owl boxes everywhere in the surrounding woods.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Creek-side(5)

Sorry, I thought I had already replied to a couple of these.

Anyway, I grow for my own use only.

I don't really have a deer problem. They have only gone after my beans, and I solved that with bird netting.

I don't want to create a permanent fence for various reasons. To keep out the rabbits I use 30-inch chicken wire that I don't bury at all. Then I lay a 12-inch roll up next to it to keep them from digging under it. Every couple of weeks I pull up the 12-incher and weed eat both sides of the fence.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
slowjane CA/ Sunset 21

woohooman - i had mites on my snap peas not snow peas. does that seem crazy? and also sweet peas. ? if that seems extremely atypical i wonder if it's because they were stressed plants - perhaps due to short days.

and thanks for suggestions about amendments and transplants. do you think direct sowing kale, spinach, etc is a bad idea? or are you saying i should wait til january to let the soil rest or just that you have better luck with seedlings? i did direct sow last year and they were slow to get going but successful.

dave - i will look into reflectors then. thanks for the tip!

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Jane: All I've ever grown is snow, so I wouldn't know about the others. But yes, a stressed plant is much more likely to get hit than a healthy one.

Also, regarding transplants... for spinach(because you want to plant tons of plants to get good harvests, direct seeding is smarter. BUT... I've done it and had slugs just wipe out row after row in one night. So, I prefer to start them in a bunch of pony packs and give them a fighting chance once I transplant. Either way, lay down some slug bait every couple weeks or so.

For the brassicas, it's so much easier to do transplants. First, most home gardeners aren't going to need a ton of plants. Second, they're ready in just a few weeks so if we happen to get a Santa Ana come by, I can hold off for a week or so. Third, controlling temps is so much easier than having to worry about them outside. Fourth, a 6 or 9 pack only cost a few bucks, even cheaper at walmart after they get rid of all the holiday stuff(much cheaper if self done at home). However, with KALE or collards, I have no idea how I'd use all that they would produce. 2-3 plants is sufficient for my small family. Fifth, now, when sunlight is low and weak, I can give my transplants a good 16 hours of light a day with a shoplight.

The only things I'd put in that soil right NOW is the compost and meals. In a month or so, they'll be acclimated. The bone meal will take quite awhile to break down, but better now than later.

Kevin

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
aftermidnight Zone7b B.C. Canada

Thanks Zeedman, I'll email Dan and see if he knows of a source.

Annette

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
defrost49

Yacon is in the Baker Creek catalog under Live Plants. Looks like you must pre-order.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Try "sampleseeds dot com.
Most of their seede cost $1.00 to $1.50 per pack. And shipping for average l order is about $3.50. I have not yet ordered from them but probably will order some tomatot seeds from them. They also have fairly good selection of peppers and many garden veggies.

NO: I don't own any interest in the company. hehe

I also visited Burpee's site. I find their prices beyond my budget.. They throw in a "Free Shipping" gimmick" as a bait. Hahaha. I aint no fish.

Seysonn

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
planatus(6)

I order about a third of my seeds online, always in situations where I want or need specific varieties that are worth the cost. Another one third comes from my saved seeds, and the rest I buy at retail racks in spring -- including box and Dollar stores. By far the best prices.

Garden Watchdog is great.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
tishtoshnm Zone 6/NM

I hope it works for you, zeedman. The one we used was a loaner, and we staked it with a piece of rebar but they are worth their price. I decided against live traps because I would not check it every day and it is more human to just kill them quick than to let them starve to death.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
elisa_z5

THanks for the ideas on trapping voles. My yard is a mass of tunnels now, so I think I'll need to do something next year to protect the garden.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Peter1142(Zone 6b)

My choices are Ace peppers, Hansel eggplant, and Pentagreen Okra. If it looks like it will be a hotter summer I will pick up some extra peppers and eggplant, maybe a black beauty, at a local nursery and grow them in pots.

I'm sure after all this planning it will be a hotter and longer than normal summer. :)

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin

"I'm sure after all this planning it will be a hotter and longer than normal summer. :)"

One can only hope. After last summer, I'd settle for "normal". ;-)

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Posted a link to all the how-to info over on your post of this question on the Harvest Forum here.

Dave

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Most likely edema, sometimes spelled oedema.

If so, physiological response to high humidity and moist soil Not a problem

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
peggyhamill(5a)

Thanks a million. That seems to be just what it is. I will try to water a bit less. I forgot to mention that this is in a greenhouse.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
planatus(6)

Peter, you will get only one harvest season from the plants. I start seeds the first week of June for harvest in Oct and Nov.

Spring seedlings "blast" in midsummer due to hot weather and there is nothing to harvest -- waste of time and space.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Peter1142(Zone 6b)

As I said, the idea was to try and get to harvest before the midsummer heat, by using an 80 day variety and starting indoors well ahead of time. We'll see if I will try, only if I have the extra space.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
galinas(5B)

Where do you get your transplants? Do you buy them or grow from seeds? I start mine inside in the beginning of Murch or even in end of February. They usually about 1.5-2.0 ' tall and flower by mid May when I transplant them. So they need about 2.5 month in ideal condition to start blooming(and this is for EARLY varsities, like 60-70 days ones). If you buy you plants couple inches tall, they may have not enough time, especially if they are not early ones...Also try to see if the light is sufficient. When light is low, they can grow tall, but not set blossoms...

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
laceyvail(6A, WV)

I long ago gave up on bells because they never produced much. Corno di Toro peppers are not shaped like bells, but taste just like them. They are prolific and bear very early.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
glib(5.5)

till them so the bacteria are injected, and BW roots get chopped. They are very distinctive, black outside, yellow wood. IME it is only near big roots that juglone lasts.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
RedSun (Zone 6, NJ)

I dug the soil closest to the stump, about 2' deep. Then I dug the trenches to plant the crowns. I'll leave the trench open for the winter and plant the crowns next spring.

I only found a couple of large roots, about 1/2" diameter. They grow at the top 1' of the soil.....

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Low sunlight & chilly temperatures are likely to be the problem, or much of it.

Beyond that, a picture is worth 1000s of words. Please upload one.
If you're not able, perhaps a friend or relative can help.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Could be what Jean mentioned and with the cold and low light, you likely won't get much the rest of the year. Even down here where the day temps are great, it's just too cold at night for much production. I've already started pulling some of my peppers because I know there's nothing left in them as it gets cooler.

But... the shriveling could be a sign that the compost is tainted with herbicide. You may want to test it with a link that Jean gave me once. And like she said, a pic speaks loudly.

Kevin

Here is a link that might be useful: WSU bioassay for herbicide in compost

    Bookmark