23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I also wonder about the move into more sun as the problem. If you have experience of starting seed indoors, you understand that you have to gradually acclimate your new plants to more sun exposure before planting out. Maybe this is the same idea. Moving a potted plant from shade to sun should be done carefully. Maybe covering the plant or shading with a lawn chair until it gets used to the new location. Moving in a time period of 3-4 days of rainy cloudy weather. Etc. No experience with this issue though, just a guess.
Thanks, guys. I was thinking at the time that I did it that this was a move from full sun to full sun but I do think that it was probably getting afternoon shade from the tomatoes in the old location. So partial shade to full sun.
Now to find someone who will help me carry it back up the stairs!
Modern varieties of sweet corn generally produce two ears per stalk and don't produce any more after that. Older, heirloom varieties might produce more ears per stalk over a somewhat longer period of time.
Corn produces pollen from the tassles and silk from the ears at the same time.
Perhaps because your corn was water stressed it got a little confused and some ears silked too late to get good pollenation (that's why the ears are small with no or very few kernels forming). The one node with four ears coming from it is just a mutation that's not uncommon.
It is a whoopsie. You should plant spinach as soon as the ground can be worked. Now the soil temperature is too high and the seed has gone dormant. Expect spinach plants in that bed next year. When they come up, write down the date, subtract 15 days, and you will get the best time for planting spinach in your area.
Lettuce seed is more heat resistant. It germinated, but it will bolt soon. Mine has already bolted and was replaced by beets June 17, just ahead of the last several days of rain. Plant lettuce as soon as the soil can be worked, too.
In a previous GW thread, florauk said basil hates cold. I think that's the same person as floral_uk. Anyway, the thread's below.
You thinking there's a lack of minerals and such because of the high pH lockup? There doesn't seem to be any consistent pH info about basil on the web. It's all over the place.
Here is a link that might be useful: earlier GW Basil thread
Basil does not like cold, but it just goes dormant in cool temps and quits growing. I highly doubt that temp made it bitter. The ph may be, but my soils here in Denver are around 8 and my in-ground basil still thrives.
Some basils are much more camphor tasting. Did you grow from seed, or buy a nursery plant. It may have been mislabeled. Picture?
Maybe we have tougher weeds down here, but in my experience, even drenching both plant and soil with vinegar only kills the visible part of the plant, if that (and not always even that if you use vinegar from the grocery store). It's useless for serious weed control.
You have good instincts, Steve.
GW has a pest forum. I'm not familiar with it. May or may not help.The Garden Clinic
Can you plant both in the same hill about 10-12 inches apart? Then, in a couple weeks, you could remove the smaller or weaker one by cutting it off at the base rather than pulling or digging it up. There are often problems with small cucurbits when you first plant out, like insects or root damage. If you have both in the ground to begin, you have a better chance of ending up with a healthy one.
I guess you can't tell from the pics but there's actually 6 individuals in each pot, so I was planning on planting one pot, and snipping off the weakest 3 from that group after a week or two. I don't have the space for 2nd pot atm, so back it goes!
All this talk of this and that pot... starting to get the munchies. ;p
Edit: On closer inspection, it might be 3 plants with 2 stalks each forming a V shape that meet below the dirt. Is that normal for cantaloupes? Not familiar with out they grow. These are Super Hybrid 45, btw.
While I'm on it, can I use a black construction (garbage) bag cut open and with weep holes punched to cover the mound? I've read to cover the mounds with tarp or clear plastic but I don't have anything like that but the black construction bag.
This post was edited by Raptor666 on Sat, Jun 21, 14 at 16:01
I don't mind the pic confusion...takes a bit to figure it out. And who has the time when the garden needs tending, ; )
Some salad mixes the past few years have a mixed blend of salads and greens. Meant to be planted tight and cut young, then come up for another round or three...
To be eaten fresh, not cooked...but if grown thin, will obviously become a larger plant to be cooked...a few holes do not matter. They look healthy but don't really like the heat. Could get a bit tough and woody if not picked. Stops growing. A bit of shade helps.
And mulch...
A row cover keeps the bugs out. In the heat of July a bolt of tulle is handy to have for a cover...
I don't have BT but not a bad thing to have but i've not had the need yet...
sorry, what's "a bolt of tulle"? It's kind strange that this is the first year (over about 4 years) I have had a "bug" problem in my veggie garden...I never have before and have never had to used pesticides! I think the reason there is lettuce in with the collards is because I planted lettuce in fall but nothing came up so I planted the collards later, when the seed packet said to plant. I guess some lettuce decided to grow after all. Since I love most greens, I guess "mixed blends of salads and greens" will work out great for me! Besides, I don't mind...I'm pretty laid back with my garden - I do very little thinning out of seedlings, transplanting, etc., I let some weeds/grasses grow to keep some veggies off the soil. My main source of fertilizer is rabbit manure and some chicken manure. I usually end up with way more veggies than my husband and I can use. I love giving away my produce to friends, family, leaving some at church and the office, etc. I just love gardening - especially the experimenting part. Every year I try to add several new vegetables to my garden selections, even if I don't like to eat them - there's always someone out there that want them. When people look at my garden they are amazed that it produces as well as it does...I call it organized chaos...lol
I've tried it for the first time this year. So far, so good. Also, the stems are EDIBLE!!! I cut off the leaf at rubbed a paper towel over the stem until all the stickers came off (for some pesky stickers, I used my thumbnail from behind the safety of the paper towel. They steam like asparagus or can be snipped in to pieces like green beans. They taste like a combination of green beans and the squash. They are DELICIOUS cooked up in eggs. They don't store long, though, maybe a couple of days in the fridge before the shrivel and loose all their moisture, But then you can use them like a dried vegetable as they weren't moldy, just shriveled.
The leaves are edible too, but I haven't figured out a way to remove the stickers from them. They just tear underneath the paper towel. Some sites say you can peal them, but really, how do you peel a leaf??? Also, if you boil them in soups the stickers aren't supposed to be an issue, but its too hot out here for soups, so my leaves have been finding their way to the compost heap or the trash if they're spotty.
Oh, and yes, I've been cutting at the base of the stem where it comes out of the main stalk of the plant. The stemps are hollow, so it's scary. You'd think anything could crawl in there and infect your babies, but the bottom stems tend to turn yellow and brown and rot off anyway, and the lower leaves are the first ones most likely to get diseases, so removing them has to be good for the plant too.
Occasionally cukes are deformed like that. However, in the photo, I see no leaves except for one. And that leaf is brown and shriveled up. That is not normal. On a healthy cucumber plant there should be a lot, and I do mean a lot, more leaves than I see. You didn't spray with vinegar again, did you?
Rodney
I don't think the soil(neither in the pots, nor in the bed) was to blame. The plants were happy in the pot. Secondly the plants root never managed to get out of the pot.
About Cucurbits:
They are very cold sensitive. I don't know what your climate is like but they did not die of cold, although it could have contributed.
At this stage, you should either start anew from seeds or get new plants. EVEN IF you are successful in reviving them, they are so badly stressed that any plant started from seed today will come and surpass those. Just within last week I lost some of my cucumbers to cold. There is no or little hope when cucurbits are stressed. I am going to re-seed again.
Probably a good thing where I'm at -- everything's clay! I have a soaker hose anyways and it gives me more control over how much water they get. I hear they actually get sweeter melons if you slack off on the water when they're ripening because it concentrates the sugars, where as too much will dilute them.
If you have the soaker under the plastic, that should work well. While the plants are young and vining, they do need plenty of water.