23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
It takes me more than a year, usually two, to use up a packet of broccoli or cabbage seeds, so I can only try so many updated varieties. Gypsy broccoli is fast and makes big heads. I think I like it better than Diplomat, the packet I'm working through now, which is also the variety many local organic growers are using. I've done well with small, fast cabbages like Pixie, Gonzales, Caraflex (pointed) and Alcosa (savoy).
No favorites on B sprouts. The top hybrids haven't been very impressive, so I'm trying OP Catskill this year and planning to fertilize the heck out of it. B sprouts grow into huge 3-foot plants, and I don't see how they can do that in 60 days. When days are getting shorter in fall, you should add 21 days to the estimated maturity time for veg varieties except leafy greens anyway.
Sunshine, I direct seed the rutabagas, carrots and leafy greens, and start all the others in containers. To get the seeds up in hot summer soil, I often cover straight rows with boards held aloft with bricks. With broadcast beds I cover wire hoops with an old sheet, secured with clothespins, to gentle down the sun. In dry years I've looped soaker hoses into squiggles and circles and planted direct-seeded crops in the drip line.
I was victim of that hail storm a few weeks back. It only shredded my pepper and eggplant leaves. They all survived. The shredded leaves are still there, but they grew new ones and everything is doing well. My squash/zucchini/cucumbers were not so lucky. Because the vines were exposed, the hail sliced the vines. I had two surviving squash out of six and two out of four cucumbers. I just started over (in pots). I'm better off. By the time my new plants are ready to go in the ground, the borer moths may be gone for the season.
I lost one tomato plant too, completely decapitated! Fingers crossed for no more hail!
There is a plant ID forum. It is active and they know their stuff. If, after researching catalpa, you are still not sure/convinced, try over there. Adding URL.
Here is a link that might be useful: Name that plant forum
Thanks auntnana.
Mine came yesterday. It went together easily. I took it to my garden for a spin this morning.
I have to say, the jury is still out. Also since we had a bad drought 2 years ago, the soil has been very hard. So it didn't do a real great job. And it's most definitely not a weeder. I found if I scraped the small weeds off with a hoe first, then used it, it went better.
I think I need to focus on improving my soil more, and then using the cultivator before hardly any weeds grow back (after the first big weeding). It worked pretty well if I went slowly, and went back over the same places a few times.
Once I get the soil softer, I think it will be great to use!
I have raised beds, but the soil packs down with the winter rains (not so much this year with the drought!)
I bought a little mini tiller from my neighbor, probably 60s-70's model and the thing is perfect! It fluffs up the beds and mixes in the compost down about 4-6"
I know some people say that in raised beds you shouldn't have to till, but I love mixing in that compost and having that fluffed look!
Sorry, no help with your tiller! Just had to comment about mine! =) Nancy
As lori said - how old are the plants? They may just be finished as they don't live indefinitely.
Otherwise the yellowing leaves indicates over-watering, not under-watering and the interveinal chlorosis (green veins surrounded by pale leaf tissue) usually indicates nutrient deficiency.
Dave
How would you spray an acre of crop? By tractor? Seems like more work than it is worth for the small benefit.
The biggest benefit of foliar feeding is under situations where the nutrients would get locked up in the soil, for example, iron chelates.
Last year was just my 2nd year of growing pumpkins and did not have as many as this year so I actually poured the labels instructions mixing ratio directly on the ground along with a granular fertilizer that was applied when planted and had great results with doing so. I would be spraying with a ATV and sprayer.
A growing guide is just a starting point...
Broccoli is a cool weather crop, meaning cool soil. You can help keep the soil cool by mulching and watering deep, not every day. May buy a bit of time but sudden hot weather like we are having right now and the past few weeks, hot/then cold, will pretty much toss planting guides out the window.
Not every crop will do as planned every year...
I had great broccoli, cauliflower, broccoli rabe, and hearty greens a few years ago but a bust the past few...too hot too soon.
Some crops do great every year no mater the weather...
Peppers like this weather but may not have liked going in so early. Mine have only been in two weeks now. I let them be until i see flowers, then start feeding....
With so few varieties, study the needs of each plant. An all-for-all soil mix does not exist.
Asparagus really wants to be off on its own. If you like it where it is, you might want to add a division board so it can be left undisturbed and mulched separately. If it does well, the summer fronds will get dense and 4-5 ft tall after a few years. May even shade you veggies.
Though that can sometimes work to an advantage. Get a compost pile going if not already...next year your soil will thank you for it. Fresh bags of this and that in a new bed are often not so great...just seems like it should after the sticker shock...
Root maggots - I dug up one of the plants. The roots are solid, but very small. Either something is damaging the roots, or the same thing is damaging both the leaves and roots.
Peppers - The plants are very small, but they are flowering and there is even a tiny pepper.
Asparagus - They are on the north side of the garden (about 30" wide by 15' long, running N-S). I can put in a partition this fall.
Yep. Sunburn. Nothing to worry about RIGHT now, but colored bells take a while to ripen to final color and SUNSCALD might become an issue. The blackening will go way as it ripens, but too much sun on that area MIGHT turn into scald... a bleaching and rotting of the flesh. See what you can do to manipulate the foliage to shade it better or use some shade cloth during the peak of the day.
Blackening/purpling of the stems is completely normal.
Pics of the leaves would be helpful, but probably nothing to worry about.
Kevin
Thanks so much guys! I didn't even think about sunburn/sunscalding. It makes sense, since the peppers get a lot of sun during the day and it is the middle of summer, lol. We'll try to readjust the foliage, and if we can't, I'm sure my dad can rig up something small to help protect them!
Glad to hear the blackening of the stems is normal :)
Thanks again! you certainly cleared up a lot of our questions!
Shade if you can...and yes, very hot the next few days.
I plant very thick, especially when the hot weather is coming...though this is a bit early for us...NY/NJ....
My salad beds are shaded 50%. I still may have trouble with the spring mix but i already have a hot summer mix i've been cutting...
I have salad all summer by planting a heat tolerant blend and shade...don't have the water pressure for misting but would if i could. (gravity spring fed)
We will never loose the water/burn/magnifier myth...
I've had a few mid day showers this spring with the sun shinning...no harm
Since I pulled out the infected plants should I consider an alternative organic preventative for the remaining healthy plants instead (like the baking soda or milk solution options)?
Planatus, thanks for that link. That list will help me plan for next year.
Baking soda and milk have never shown any beneficial result in scientific testing. They are both considered anecdotal treatments at best. So using them is your choice.
However there are a number organic controls available in the form of copper fungicides. And they have been proven to be effective as a control for several of the fungus/bacteria caused diseases. The only preventative effect any fungicide has is if applied from day 1 of plant out. Once the fungus or bacteria has a hold on the plant then even the strongest fungicides become controls, not preventatives.
Dave
I'm doing broccoli, cabbage and brussels sprouts as a fall crop this year because they've never done well in the spring even when I get them in in early April. Brussels sprouts are actually supposed to taste better after a frost, so I'm taking my first frost date and going back 90 days to get an idea of when to plant. Will probably aim to get them in by July 15 here.
Oh, and your cukes and peppers look just fine to me. Mine are about the same color and are forming cukes already.
Thanks Caryltoo, that's good to know. I'm going to take photos of what I have left tomorrow to post. I imagine I should be able to leave the brussel sprouts plants for the fall, if I have any left. And thanks for the confirmation that the color is okay on the cukes and peppers. This week is supposed to be hot so maybe that will help them.
So hot and humid here I can't think about soup. Hope it turns out.
FWIW, I probably would have steamed the peas, tossed with pasta and tuna, basil and maybe a little oregano, olive oil and a pat of butter. Maybe the goat cheese if no tuna - or have the cheese with lettuce, EVOO, a little balsamic vinegar, and if you have any dried cranberries, fresh strawberries, and walnuts or pecans that would make a good salad (though I prefer spinach to lettuce).
Chipmunks maybe? They'll squeeze through, then pull the leaves down to their level and munch away.
Mice? That last pic with the webbing looks like it's from a spider. I see things like this in my garage frequently and sometimes there's a spider hidden inside.
Rodney