23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

As lori said - how old are the plants? They may just be finished as they don't live indefinitely.

Otherwise the yellowing leaves indicates over-watering, not under-watering and the interveinal chlorosis (green veins surrounded by pale leaf tissue) usually indicates nutrient deficiency.

Dave

Zone 10, I would think it is too hot right now for beans, There either done growing are getting sun burned.

Its normal for bush squash plants to 'flop around' a bit as the vines grow. If the plants are as healthy as you say they are, further thinning isn't needed.

Good to know, thanks!

How would you spray an acre of crop? By tractor? Seems like more work than it is worth for the small benefit.
The biggest benefit of foliar feeding is under situations where the nutrients would get locked up in the soil, for example, iron chelates.

Last year was just my 2nd year of growing pumpkins and did not have as many as this year so I actually poured the labels instructions mixing ratio directly on the ground along with a granular fertilizer that was applied when planted and had great results with doing so. I would be spraying with a ATV and sprayer.

A growing guide is just a starting point...
Broccoli is a cool weather crop, meaning cool soil. You can help keep the soil cool by mulching and watering deep, not every day. May buy a bit of time but sudden hot weather like we are having right now and the past few weeks, hot/then cold, will pretty much toss planting guides out the window.
Not every crop will do as planned every year...
I had great broccoli, cauliflower, broccoli rabe, and hearty greens a few years ago but a bust the past few...too hot too soon.
Some crops do great every year no mater the weather...
Peppers like this weather but may not have liked going in so early. Mine have only been in two weeks now. I let them be until i see flowers, then start feeding....
With so few varieties, study the needs of each plant. An all-for-all soil mix does not exist.

Asparagus really wants to be off on its own. If you like it where it is, you might want to add a division board so it can be left undisturbed and mulched separately. If it does well, the summer fronds will get dense and 4-5 ft tall after a few years. May even shade you veggies.
Though that can sometimes work to an advantage. Get a compost pile going if not already...next year your soil will thank you for it. Fresh bags of this and that in a new bed are often not so great...just seems like it should after the sticker shock...

Root maggots - I dug up one of the plants. The roots are solid, but very small. Either something is damaging the roots, or the same thing is damaging both the leaves and roots.

Peppers - The plants are very small, but they are flowering and there is even a tiny pepper.

Asparagus - They are on the north side of the garden (about 30" wide by 15' long, running N-S). I can put in a partition this fall.

Yep. Sunburn. Nothing to worry about RIGHT now, but colored bells take a while to ripen to final color and SUNSCALD might become an issue. The blackening will go way as it ripens, but too much sun on that area MIGHT turn into scald... a bleaching and rotting of the flesh. See what you can do to manipulate the foliage to shade it better or use some shade cloth during the peak of the day.

Blackening/purpling of the stems is completely normal.

Pics of the leaves would be helpful, but probably nothing to worry about.

Kevin

Thanks so much guys! I didn't even think about sunburn/sunscalding. It makes sense, since the peppers get a lot of sun during the day and it is the middle of summer, lol. We'll try to readjust the foliage, and if we can't, I'm sure my dad can rig up something small to help protect them!

Glad to hear the blackening of the stems is normal :)

Thanks again! you certainly cleared up a lot of our questions!

I've always found that cold water on the root zone, not the leaves, is most effective. Also that close planting encourages bolting, and giving each plant head space tends to keep it - as well as giving more direct access to the root zone.

Shade if you can...and yes, very hot the next few days.
I plant very thick, especially when the hot weather is coming...though this is a bit early for us...NY/NJ....
My salad beds are shaded 50%. I still may have trouble with the spring mix but i already have a hot summer mix i've been cutting...
I have salad all summer by planting a heat tolerant blend and shade...don't have the water pressure for misting but would if i could. (gravity spring fed)

We will never loose the water/burn/magnifier myth...
I've had a few mid day showers this spring with the sun shinning...no harm

Since I pulled out the infected plants should I consider an alternative organic preventative for the remaining healthy plants instead (like the baking soda or milk solution options)?

Planatus, thanks for that link. That list will help me plan for next year.

Baking soda and milk have never shown any beneficial result in scientific testing. They are both considered anecdotal treatments at best. So using them is your choice.

However there are a number organic controls available in the form of copper fungicides. And they have been proven to be effective as a control for several of the fungus/bacteria caused diseases. The only preventative effect any fungicide has is if applied from day 1 of plant out. Once the fungus or bacteria has a hold on the plant then even the strongest fungicides become controls, not preventatives.

Dave

I'm doing broccoli, cabbage and brussels sprouts as a fall crop this year because they've never done well in the spring even when I get them in in early April. Brussels sprouts are actually supposed to taste better after a frost, so I'm taking my first frost date and going back 90 days to get an idea of when to plant. Will probably aim to get them in by July 15 here.

Oh, and your cukes and peppers look just fine to me. Mine are about the same color and are forming cukes already.

Thanks Caryltoo, that's good to know. I'm going to take photos of what I have left tomorrow to post. I imagine I should be able to leave the brussel sprouts plants for the fall, if I have any left. And thanks for the confirmation that the color is okay on the cukes and peppers. This week is supposed to be hot so maybe that will help them.

So hot and humid here I can't think about soup. Hope it turns out.

FWIW, I probably would have steamed the peas, tossed with pasta and tuna, basil and maybe a little oregano, olive oil and a pat of butter. Maybe the goat cheese if no tuna - or have the cheese with lettuce, EVOO, a little balsamic vinegar, and if you have any dried cranberries, fresh strawberries, and walnuts or pecans that would make a good salad (though I prefer spinach to lettuce).

Everything you have sounds a lot better than what's in the grocery stores ! Garden fresh too !

Not really sure what type it reay is
It's from Home Depot
Was in a box

Planted it years ago..

Check out the lecture on Blackberries by master horticulturist, Alan Chadwick, here:

Alan Chadwick Lecture Index

(See the latter part of Lecture 17)

Here is a link that might be useful: Alan Chadwick

I transplated a couple tomatillo seedlings I bought about 4 weeks ago, planted into a large container (25L). They're growing like crazy! Every day they've grown another inch or so. Lots of blossoms, and I think a couple might have already pollinated.
I'm afraid they're already too leggy. One has shot up to over 2" in the past week, but the stalk is pretty think (unlike my tomatoes/ground cerries that are puttering away) Should I try burrying/trenching them a bit deeper now? There's about 2 feet of thin stalk I'm worried about. Or in a couple weeks I might be able to plant them straight in the ground (new garden). I don't want to distrub fruit growth if it's already started though.
Didn't know about trenching. Very good idea!

Yours should already be in the ground. Trench them. I did with mine about a month ago. They now have thick stalls and have tomatillos growing on them.

This is how we start carrots in July and August in Kansas. It may be a little overkill, but we have always been successful.

For the most part, root vegetables and plastic mulch don't work. I have seen it done successfully with transplanting beets into plastic mulch, but that is a lot of work.

Here is a link that might be useful: Starting carrots in summer

There is a valuable tutorial on growing carrots here:

The Biodynamic French Intensive Method of Alan Chadwick

Weeds are not really the horrible culprits some people make them out to be. Just remove them as they begin to compete with your carrots, and they will help create fertility in the process. Be sure to put them immediately (while they are still green) on the compost pile, and you will soon have the best fertilizer you can get.

Here is a link that might be useful: Alan Chadwick

Can i mix something in it to correct my mistake. My plants are small, i can correct the soil and put the plants back in it again?

You'll do more damage than good by trying to remove and replant them. You are boxed in to using liquid nutrient sources but that is fine.

You can always buy some garden lime and mix a very small amount in water, let it sit for a few hours and them water the soil with the water. But it really isn't necessary as long as you feed them. They are small because the container lacks nutrients.

If you want strictly organics then there are any number of liquid organic fertilizers available on the market to use - fish emulsions and/or fish and kep blends mixed into water - sold at any of the big box stores or nurseries and discussed here in infinite detail.

Or you can use Miracle Grow diluted to 1/2 strength and feed every 7-10 days.

Dave

Thanks Dave