23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening


Shade if you can...and yes, very hot the next few days.
I plant very thick, especially when the hot weather is coming...though this is a bit early for us...NY/NJ....
My salad beds are shaded 50%. I still may have trouble with the spring mix but i already have a hot summer mix i've been cutting...
I have salad all summer by planting a heat tolerant blend and shade...don't have the water pressure for misting but would if i could. (gravity spring fed)
We will never loose the water/burn/magnifier myth...
I've had a few mid day showers this spring with the sun shinning...no harm

Since I pulled out the infected plants should I consider an alternative organic preventative for the remaining healthy plants instead (like the baking soda or milk solution options)?
Planatus, thanks for that link. That list will help me plan for next year.

Baking soda and milk have never shown any beneficial result in scientific testing. They are both considered anecdotal treatments at best. So using them is your choice.
However there are a number organic controls available in the form of copper fungicides. And they have been proven to be effective as a control for several of the fungus/bacteria caused diseases. The only preventative effect any fungicide has is if applied from day 1 of plant out. Once the fungus or bacteria has a hold on the plant then even the strongest fungicides become controls, not preventatives.
Dave

I'm doing broccoli, cabbage and brussels sprouts as a fall crop this year because they've never done well in the spring even when I get them in in early April. Brussels sprouts are actually supposed to taste better after a frost, so I'm taking my first frost date and going back 90 days to get an idea of when to plant. Will probably aim to get them in by July 15 here.
Oh, and your cukes and peppers look just fine to me. Mine are about the same color and are forming cukes already.

Thanks Caryltoo, that's good to know. I'm going to take photos of what I have left tomorrow to post. I imagine I should be able to leave the brussel sprouts plants for the fall, if I have any left. And thanks for the confirmation that the color is okay on the cukes and peppers. This week is supposed to be hot so maybe that will help them.

So hot and humid here I can't think about soup. Hope it turns out.
FWIW, I probably would have steamed the peas, tossed with pasta and tuna, basil and maybe a little oregano, olive oil and a pat of butter. Maybe the goat cheese if no tuna - or have the cheese with lettuce, EVOO, a little balsamic vinegar, and if you have any dried cranberries, fresh strawberries, and walnuts or pecans that would make a good salad (though I prefer spinach to lettuce).

Hard to tell what's going on in the picture. Have you had hot weather where you are? A really hot day can cause the growth tips of peas to shrivel. The rest of the leaves look healthy, so that would seem to rule out other common problems like powdery mildew. Do you know what variety this is, and the variety of the ones doing better? Though on the whole peas hate hot weather, some varieties are somewhat better than others.


Check out the lecture on Blackberries by master horticulturist, Alan Chadwick, here:
(See the latter part of Lecture 17)
Here is a link that might be useful: Alan Chadwick

I transplated a couple tomatillo seedlings I bought about 4 weeks ago, planted into a large container (25L). They're growing like crazy! Every day they've grown another inch or so. Lots of blossoms, and I think a couple might have already pollinated.
I'm afraid they're already too leggy. One has shot up to over 2" in the past week, but the stalk is pretty think (unlike my tomatoes/ground cerries that are puttering away) Should I try burrying/trenching them a bit deeper now? There's about 2 feet of thin stalk I'm worried about. Or in a couple weeks I might be able to plant them straight in the ground (new garden). I don't want to distrub fruit growth if it's already started though.
Didn't know about trenching. Very good idea!

This is how we start carrots in July and August in Kansas. It may be a little overkill, but we have always been successful.
For the most part, root vegetables and plastic mulch don't work. I have seen it done successfully with transplanting beets into plastic mulch, but that is a lot of work.
Here is a link that might be useful: Starting carrots in summer

There is a valuable tutorial on growing carrots here:
The Biodynamic French Intensive Method of Alan Chadwick
Weeds are not really the horrible culprits some people make them out to be. Just remove them as they begin to compete with your carrots, and they will help create fertility in the process. Be sure to put them immediately (while they are still green) on the compost pile, and you will soon have the best fertilizer you can get.
Here is a link that might be useful: Alan Chadwick

Can i mix something in it to correct my mistake. My plants are small, i can correct the soil and put the plants back in it again?
You'll do more damage than good by trying to remove and replant them. You are boxed in to using liquid nutrient sources but that is fine.
You can always buy some garden lime and mix a very small amount in water, let it sit for a few hours and them water the soil with the water. But it really isn't necessary as long as you feed them. They are small because the container lacks nutrients.
If you want strictly organics then there are any number of liquid organic fertilizers available on the market to use - fish emulsions and/or fish and kep blends mixed into water - sold at any of the big box stores or nurseries and discussed here in infinite detail.
Or you can use Miracle Grow diluted to 1/2 strength and feed every 7-10 days.
Dave

Sure looks like. If you believe that spraying baking soda will get rid of it, fine, do it. It won't help IMO - nothing cures or eliminates it once established - but it can't hurt. Or you might want to do some research into the various fungicides that are proven to at least slow the disease process
Yes you can still eat the cukes.
Dave

Concur: Baking soda can be helpful for Powdery Mildew. But nothing is really effective for Downy Mildew. Copper based fungicides may slow it abit, if applied early enough.
Here is a link that might be useful: Downy Mildew

It continues to grow, incredible.
BTW as a scientist I was looking through a NASA handbook and found male human urine is safe and sterile unless there is a urinary infection. NASA needed to know how safe it would be on a space mission.
There is a Finish study which showed that urine mixed with wood ash used on tomatoes outgrew untreated and treated with commercial fertilizer and, the price is right.


Thanks!
Stuffradio, the Pac Choi is actually Fordhook Giant Chard. :)
I love the galvanized tubs as well loribee! IMO they cant be beat for the price. They should last a long, long, time.
Hopefully my lettuce doesn't bolt in the heat we are expecting this week! I have misters set up to try to keep them cool!

From Better Homes and Gardens (yeah, I know...)
The best time to control sawflies is early in their larval stage. The natural insecticide spinosad will control sawfly larvae. Conventional insecticides such as malathion are also effective. Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), which is an effective natural control for true caterpillars, is ineffective on sawfly larvae.
From me (yeah, I know...)
Sawfly isn't a caterpillar, so BT won't work. It's a wasp family larva.

Oh man!! I'm so sorry!! You must live near me, I was in the Milwaukie fred meyers when it was coming down today, and the sound of the hail hitting the ceiling there was crazy. I was sure Id have garden damage, but came home and it didn't hit me here in SE Portland.





Yep. Sunburn. Nothing to worry about RIGHT now, but colored bells take a while to ripen to final color and SUNSCALD might become an issue. The blackening will go way as it ripens, but too much sun on that area MIGHT turn into scald... a bleaching and rotting of the flesh. See what you can do to manipulate the foliage to shade it better or use some shade cloth during the peak of the day.
Blackening/purpling of the stems is completely normal.
Pics of the leaves would be helpful, but probably nothing to worry about.
Kevin
Thanks so much guys! I didn't even think about sunburn/sunscalding. It makes sense, since the peppers get a lot of sun during the day and it is the middle of summer, lol. We'll try to readjust the foliage, and if we can't, I'm sure my dad can rig up something small to help protect them!
Glad to hear the blackening of the stems is normal :)
Thanks again! you certainly cleared up a lot of our questions!