24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Tripleione, you did well to collect tomato seed your first year. I still havenâÂÂt tried that, being a little more involved and messy.
I did the same thing , not a lot of effort, but I guess IâÂÂm going to try to make a little more effort.
Minnie, I didnâÂÂt think of saving cucumber seeds, does it work with hybrids? And how long do you leave them on the vine?

I'm not Minnie, obviously, but I'll answer the cucumber question. To save seeds from cucumbers you leave them on the vine until they are golden before picking them. If you save seeds from hybrids you won't know exactly what you'll get next year. It's also best if you only grow one variety to avoid cross pollination (although there are ways around this).

The above photos were taken last year and are a couple of Ellen's Family White cucumbers. The one on the left is a good size for eating/pickling (it could have gotten a little bit bigger). The one on the right is perfect for saving seeds, which is what I did with it.
Rodney
Here is a link that might be useful: Saving Cucumber Seed

1. Do you consider yourself at least moderately intelligent?
2. Do you read the instructions on pesticide containers?
If you answered Yes to both questions, don't hesitate to use Rotenone for SVBs. It works, and used properly, it is NOT harmful to the environment. Kind of like driving a car - assuming you don't drive drunk or deliberately drive up on the sidewalk to see people scatter, it's both useful and harmless.

I use cardboard with mulch/wood chips between some of my raised beds. It seems to work fairly well for me. The weeds that do come up are easy to pull out. I've also started experimenting with paver stepping stones surrounded by different groundcovers (creeping herbs, sweet potatoes, strawberries, etc). That is still an experiment in progress, though using sweet potatoes as groundcover does seem to choke out the weeds (as well as completely cover the stepping stones).



You must be down under, so I suspect the plants had already done a majority of their vegetative growth. I suggest dig a couple up and see if they have formed any new potatoes yet, if so harvest them all. Either way they are unlikely to make much more progress - the little sprout the old tuber will put out after having put nearly everything into the first attempt will not amount to much. Better off using the ground for something else unless you have loads of garden space.




I used the type called "benne", a landrace from coastal SC.
It is very likely the same that Jefferson kept trying to develop as a viable edible oil source at Monticello. Apparently it grew well enough in the climate there but harvesting and pressing were problematic, probably for financial reasons. What is less well known is that benne oil was produced for many years in ante-bellum SC and GA, part and parcel of the rice culture, both of which were brought with the slave-trade. It was the Africans themselves of course who brought the cultural knowledge for both those crops.

Forgot to mention:
Although the established plants are fairly drought-tolerant, the seed needs moist soil. So if your soil is sandy - which is good for the mature plant - you have to keep the seed-bed moist. This can be a challenge at any kind of scale, or if attempting dry-land culture, because by planting time for sesame the weather is hot and if rain is not frequent germination will be very poor.

"As a side note, once I dug up the main rows I left intact the trailing vines which re-rooted and now I may have more out there to possibly harvest before first frost. Will wait and see if this is true or not. Be nice to get a 2nd crop even if they are smaller."
Just to update my quote above - Today I dug up those leftover runners from my harvest on Sept 1st and I did get a good 2nd crop after 2 months of decent weather. I est that this 2nd digging was about 40% of the 1st harvest, not bad for just letting them run wild. Half of them are bakers and half are smaller for yam dishes. Next year I may do the same but prep the nearby soil for better re-rooting head start. Hope you all had a good crop!.

shayneca25,
How do you cook sweet potato leaves?
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/asianveg/msg0717221413726.html?14

http://www.stokesfoods.com/nutrition.htm
Since the Stokes Purple is locally grown in the USA, it is NOT irradiated before it reaches the consumer. Other varieties of purple sweet potatoes that are imported from overseas must be irradiated when they enter the USA. Also, Stokes Purples have not been genetically modified in any way and are classified as Non-GMO sweet potatoes.
Just planted the purple skin purple fleshed sweet potatoes slips ordered from Georges Plant Farm.

Thanks for the help! It definitely was red spider mites, once I looked closer I could see them. I mixed up an organic insecticide and it seems to have gotten rid of them but I'm going to keep sprtizing the plant with it for a while.
I live in NYC by the way and have it in a window that gets a lot of sunlight. Before the infestation is was growing quite happily.It has about six tomatoes growing right now. I'm going to try giving it some plant food to help it recover. Wish me luck!

I think having it inside causes spider mites for some reason. I've never seen them outside on maters. Try to isolate it from your other plants so it doesn't spread. We always threw out plants at the garden center I worked at that had spider mites. My boss said they were so hard to get rid of.

You need to learn about onions to grow them.
Look at
http://www.dixondalefarms.com/
click on Learn option near the top
and then look at the online guides, Downloadable Guides
(PDFs) and Frequently Asked Questions. Look at the catalog and learn all you can. Several questions are answered in detail in the guides.




Lot's of people overwinter carrots, there are many methods to doing so. The method that I use is a think layer of mulch comprised of grass clippings and shredded leaves. The mulch has worked for me over several winters in Pennsylvania.
Nope, no need. The tops of all these vegetables will tolerate freezes much lower than 29 degrees. The only concern with a container is that the soil and roots could freeze, but a container with moist soil has sufficient thermal mass to not freeze during a 29 degree event. If it was getting to the mid-20s, I'd be more concerned about it happening. How big are your containers?