24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening


try the carnivore forum, http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/carnivor


I've seen reduced vigor and smaller and weaker seedlings with old tomato seeds. I've had the seeds for about 10 years and there is no way of knowing how old they were before I got them. Once the weak seedlings reach the first or second true leaf stage and start getting some fertilizer/nutrients they begin growing well.
Seeds just a few years old don't usually show any reduction of vigor or strength. Although the germination rates will start falling.
Rodney


Well, I'll lug my shop vac out ONCE to coat the plants with DE. But if you're just going to be plucking mature bugs, get a mini-vac and do it that way every time you go out there. If you do the former, ideally you'll never have to do the latter.


I have noticed something that is a bit strange...and then maybe not so strange. I usually have a few corn plants that are not as healthy as the rest. These make a smaller ear, yet I find these to be smaller grained and more tender than all the rest when picked at just the right time!!!

My corn put out just one nice ear too--this year. I've had two or even three ears per stalk in previous years, IIRC.
I've had better years for corn. (I grow Vision, from Johnny's Seeds--super sweet, my husband says it's the best he's ever eaten.) The stalks were very small this year. Although I still got one nice ear per stalk, the stalks themselves seemed significantly smaller than the ones last year. Just one of those garden mysteries, perhaps?

I wouldn't risk next year harvest with planting old bulbs. I wouldn't even plant old bulbs mixed with new bulbs - old can care fungus, that usually affects old bulbs. But if i have a spot I do not need next year, I would try to plant them to see what happened) You can even try them now - plant few and see if the green comes up(make sure soil is moist). if they come up - they will produce something, but may be not the best bulbs. Again, it is all question of space and time for trial.

Don't know if this helps --- I was roasting cut up strawberries with a cut up habanero pepper early summer. Once, the pepper had no heat. Next time I went shopping, I bit off the end of a pepper to test it - no heat --- stopped at about 5 (Yes, I did buy all of them). About a week later, I figured I'd just add them to my smoothie. I added all. OMG, I had to dilute that smoothie a lot. Sitting there on my counter, shriveling up, the heat sure did pick up.

I am intrigued by the dill! I will have to try that. Thank you for the suggestion. Finding earwigs in things is always upsetting; they show up in our cabbages a lot too. The ants are "farming" the aphids and moving them around, which is why I'm attacking both of them. It's just all so gross. :P

I have one choke which I am waiting on to flower. It was doing well for a while then we had a hot spell and it seemed to shrink.
re earwigs I had a problem with them for a while but squirted some diatomaceous earth around the foliage on the base of the plant and haven't seen one since.


Well, the aquifer the water is stored in is surrounded by limestone which happens to be the foundation for my soil. The majority of the water for my garden comes from the hose. So all of those things in the water that makes it hard is being added to the already alkaline soil. Most of the plants in my vegetable garden handle this okay, some of my roses, not as much and my Japanese maples get rain water, only. Of the 2 outdoor spigots on my house, one gets water through the softener and one does not. I hook the hose up to the one that does not, just due to the high price of the potassium. I give dirty looks to the person in the house who will sometimes use the other spigot out of convenience. If I have to water a more sensitive plant with the hard water, I sometimes add some vinegar to react with the limestone. I also make a point to make sure to leave some beds open (i.e., do not cover all with row cover fabric) so that any little of natural precipitation I get can help leach out some of the build up from the water.

I think that's the right strategy. Treat the pH for sensitive plants, and not the minerals per se. They're already in your soil. It's the same for me. My water is not distateful-type hard, but it is alkaline from percolation through limestone. So anything I do to acidify my soil is pretty much defeated by irrigation with groundwater. I've pretty much given up trying to acidify my beds.

Every year there are more and more. I have a 6" baby tree that I've had to dig down almost two feet to clear out. They make great stilts and telephone poles but miserable backyard trees. I couldn't say they are the 'black' variety or not. I know I have killer thorns on them though.

Cull lumber is poor quality - something wrong with it- maybe cracked, chipped, warped, or otherwise not first quality wood. My thoughts were it's just going in the garden so didn't have to be perfect.
HD used to have a section for cull lumber that was marked down. Only problem was they always cut to 4ft lengths. Problem? It was almost perfect for 4x4 beds. I say almost cuz you were about 2in short on one side - but who cares? Not me.
Your produce dept. may also use the word "cull" for fruits & veggies that are no longer salable.
fwiw - I believe the HD's near me stopped this practice for some reason. Could be all their wood was warped?
I was not aware of locust trees (wood) but I imagine it is prob expensive too. I say take the least expensive way out until you figure just how much this works for you. Most Gardeners I know change something every year.
Tip - IF you don't have one start a garden notebook to list things you've done and want to do/grow. Make note of what worked well and what needs improvement when/as you think of it cuz when the time comes (if you are like me) you will forget the thought until it is too late. A list of seeds to order or what to plant - planting dates, etc is something else to make note of.

My lab/boxer mix loves fresh cabbage. It lays down with a middle of the cabbage head, holds it in her paws and eats it, like a bone, to the end). It also brings home fallen peaches, even not fully ripen yet and eats them at home, leaving the pit aside. If it manage to get into the garden(Restricted!) it will eat strawberries and raspberries form the bushes.


I have several orange cucumbers this year and I don't believe they are over ripe. They are firm and have been orange since they were small. Also, the link mentioned above about GMO cucumbers that contain beta carotene talks of cucmbers that are orange on the inside, which is not the case with mine. Mine are orange on the outside and white on the inside, and quite large. Mine were purchased as small plants from Home Depot and according to the picture are supposed to be a green heirloom cucumber good for pickling. Just by comparing photos I'd say mine resemble the Poona Kheera ones.





Let me add that with regard to watering, my understanding is that overwatering can induce cracks, and it can also make the melons less sweet, as the melon juices get diluted. People seem to say that a good strategy is to withhold water a week before harvest for maximally sweet melons. I frankly don't understand that, as my melon vines are going to have lots of melons on them of all different sizes, and if I start withholding water to sweeten the big ones, it isn't helping the small ones. Anyone understand that strategy?
Interesting thin about the Savors--they were all different sizes as you can see in my photo. But despite their variety of sizes, all were ripe--the bigger ones more aromatic, the flesh a tad softer, but even the smaller ones were intensely flavorful and pleasant-smelling. Mine never turned the shad of yellow in the video before they split, though.