24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening



It can be done, IFF it has not been for a long time: If vinegar has penetrated into the peppers already it cannot be reversed.
== drain the liquid
== rinse with distilled water
== make brine with ditilled water ( 3 TBS sea salt in one quart of distilled water"
ADDITIONALY, add plain yogurt whey to get is started quicker. Yougur whey has "Lactic Acid", produced by the batcerium called "Lactobacillus ". So adding yogurt whey you are in fact introducing lacto fermentation culture.
JMO

Zackey, that's true, commercial citrus was all over central FL. We tested the new garden site at a lakeside place a few years ago and it was oddly high in copper (though not toxically high) until one remembers copper sulfate's use as a fungicide. It was very high as compared to normal for central fl sand (almost zero).

Our temps are supposed to (finally) drop out of the 80s!
I still have to put several beds to rest. I keep a couple with radish and greens etc, but compost and cover several and try to clean up the weeds, which kinda got out of control this year! Nancy

About 50% of our veggie gardens are now at rest though there are still a few sickly tomato and eggplants hanging on. The other 50% is now fall crops. If winter doesn't come on too strong or too quickly here we'll have some nice broc, cabb, peas, asst greens and root crops going until Dec, ending with carrots into Feb. Just have to keep one step ahead of the deer.


Ground nests are fairly easy to deal with, provided they are not adjacent to anything flammable. Go out at night with some rubbing alcohol, a stout metal bucket/bowl/kettle, and some matches. Quickly dump the alcohol into the hole, stand back, and throw a match to light it. Once lit, quickly tamp the metal container of your choice over the hole, pressing it into the soil to seal the edges. The flames will deplete the oxygen, which along with the hot fumes, will kill the nest.




Well, for one thing....nothing wrong with snagging a tumble weed (which came from Siberia, and are called Siberian thistle BTW! ) or three and painting it white or silver and making it into an Xmas tree! DONE THAT! LOL
We have such a hard time between summer/fall plants, cause some of our summer stuff can go as late as November! It makes it difficult to start by seed, not knowing when we will be getting a killing frost (anywhere from Sept to Jan!)
I usually just buy starts for the fall/winter garden. Nancy
NOT this year, though! All summer stuff is done in and I'll be cleaning up the beds to cover up for the winter.

Still have carrots under a low tunnel here, and they're doing fine.
Our growing season this year featured frost on June 12th, and several days of freezes between September 10th and 13th. It has been in the mid 20's five times since then, and two of those nights were in the 20's for more than 8 hours. Lost count of how many nights were frosty.
Tough year, but carrots are tougher.


Could it be the Purple Bell in the Burpee Canival Mix? The Carnival Mix seeds are commonnly found on seed racks in the spring.
Here is a link that might be useful: Burbee Carnival Mix

Are you not allowed to use organic pesticides either? Because neem, spinosad, and pyrethrums will pretty much take care of nearly anything trying to eat your garden, bugwise.
If its squash bugs row covers will do the trick, if you can be sure they won't be "borrowed" away from your plants. I think by the time they start blossoming and you have to remove them, most of the squash bugs are gone.

Indeed I find DE is effective on a small scale. It also adds Ca to the soil which rarely goes amiss in the east.
Those who subscribe to the notion that malnourished plants are easily susceptible to insect attack sometimes pinpoint low S as the main issue.
Another strategy is to grow a crop in the general class but different enough that it may not suffer as much predation. Examples: cowpea is less favored by MBB than common beans; some kales and collards less favored by ICM than heading cabbage/broccoli/cauliflower; edible gourd is less susceptible to pests and some diseases than the three main squash species.



Onion seedlings typically sprout folded in half and unfold themselves after a few days to look like thin grass blades.
Lets get this straight:
OP ordered seeds , not seedlings. So the first ID of any onion family seeds is BLACK color, rough shaped. It does not mater what color, variety of onion.
SECOND:
It is probably too late to start onions from seeds in zone 7. It should have been sown like 40 days ago, to germinate and grow a little and overwinter.
THIRD:
You have to order the right variety for your LATITUDE.
There 3 kinds of onions: (1) Short Day (Like for way down south) . (2) Intermediate Day: where longest days are 14-15 hours (that would be like central USA) (3) Long Day: where summer days are Very long, like in northern states and Canada. Onion growing is more tricky than one might think.
I would personally plant onion plants in the spring time (sold at BBS in bunches like scallions).
I would suggest that you post in "Alliums Forum" for more expert ideas.