23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I found this link very helpful for our Zone 5 planting:
Here is a link that might be useful: PLANTING CALENDAR
Looking at the zone you are in you should be fine. The last two years due to the drought I've planted the first week of July here in zone 6a and they have produced well. I cover mine with about a 1/4" of potting soil and keep it moist and then harvest and plant the slips as they form. I usually go straight to the garden with them and then cover with a light covering of straw for a few days if it is going to be above 80. Set them out last year and the next day was 100 and I lost one out of 30 slips. The problem I have with putting them in water is they tend to get slimy and will die in 3-4 days if water isn't changed. If I can't plant them and I'm going to be around I just wrap a wet damp cloth around them. They will send out roots and do fine until I find time to plant them.
Looking at the zone you are in you should be fine. The last two years due to the drought I've planted the first week of July here in zone 6a and they have produced well. I cover mine with about a 1/4" of potting soil and keep it moist and then harvest and plant the slips as they form. I usually go straight to the garden with them and then cover with a light covering of straw for a few days if it is going to be above 80. Set them out last year and the next day was 100 and I lost one out of 30 slips. The problem I have with putting them in water is they tend to get slimy and will die in 3-4 days if water isn't changed. If I can't plant them and I'm going to be around I just wrap a wet damp cloth around them. They will send out roots and do fine until I find time to plant them.
Yes they look like bean seeds only a bit rounder. Just as with bean seeds, the radish "seed" is the little radishes that develop inside the pod. Pod and all are edible. Look at pics below, you can see the size of the seeds/radishes inside the pods.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Rat Tail radish pics
Here is an interesting fact about cucumbers. When you over water them they start wilting. Strange, right? Like they getting dry... In fact - they are!!! Roots when soaked in water can't move water up to leaves. And cucumber plant dries out staying in a puddle of water. From other point, sometimes plants are pretty much stronger then we think). I helped my mother to transplant some melons she started in the milk cartons. She watered them in the morning of transplanting day still in pots, but few hours later I noticed one melon still sits in a puddle of water. I checked the pot - sure enough it missed drainage holes. Just this one. When I took that melon out of the pot, I found that it kept all it's roots in top 1 inch of soil. And it was in that pot for almost 2 months... So I planed it in the ground and said to my mom that it most likely already dead. That was a week ago. Guess what? It didn't even wilt once during this week and shows signs of new grows. My mom promised to update me on its well been through out a season
Welcome to the site!
Where are you located? What types of crops are you having problems with? How large of a bed are we talking about?
Cultivating twice with at least a few days inbetween helps me quite a bit - before seeding or transplanting. Also, keep track of what is growing in the garden year-round (not just at planting time).
Many of the conditions that vegetables like encourage weeds. How often do you weed the bed?
Best of luck!
edit- I now see the 50x60 plot size -should be large enough to see some results from all of your effort.
This post was edited by cheapheap on Sat, Jun 7, 14 at 5:09
Last year's continuous rain really set me back because I couldn't keep up with the quickweed (galinsoga), and the "seed rain" that came from outside the garden was probably huge. But my problems are small compared to Bermuda grass, which I dealt with in another garden. Raised beds will just introduce more frustration because the runners will hunker down in the corners. Your best bet is to install a permanent perimeter around the garden using heavy duty geotextile fabric covered with wood chips. You'll have to clean out the grass and renew it every winter when the grass is dormant, but it does work.
Straw is 4x the cost of hay around here and that's if you can get it in any way - which you can't. Even hay is used for Halloween decorations in this neck of the woods.
The availability of both straw and hay is regional folks. So if you can get straw - great. If you can't, get hay. And both have advantages and disadvantages to their use just like any other form of mulch does. But either one is far more beneficial than no mulch at all.
All the other benefits of mulching aside, you want to see weeds (in all caps)? Just don't use any mulch.
Dave
Of course, things are different down here. I mulch with leaves. My lot has LOTS of trees. many live oak, but many with leaves that drop and, around here, they don't really drop until January. Cottonwood, cedar elm, and a humungous red oak next door. I mow over the leaves on the grass, which mulches the turf, but everywhere else, like between the houses, they just pile up. In the spring, when crops are up, and it's getting hot, I till gently between the rows, and then pile on the leaves. At least six inches deep. I have to water half as much as I would otherwise and, once I water, the leaves bind together so they won't blow away. At the end of the season, they're pretty well digested, and I just dig them in.
I have neighbors who garden, but who don't have that many trees. In January and February, when lots of people are raking and bagging, and leaving the bags out for city pickup, they just grab the bags and stack them up until summer.
I could not find any sources on suckers growing in hydroponic medium. Here's what's available for in-ground suckers:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/suckers-growing-corn-plants-53804.html
So the great cob is a teacher, why is it the cocky ones seemed to have flunked math? A four foot wide bed with 1' spacing makes 5 rows. As well youcan put 11 plants lengthwise in 10' beds. So we now have 165 plants in 3 beds, not 120. You can do less, just thought I'd be as cocky as you!
I have plenty of room. I use rows 28 inches apart and 12 inches apart in the row. The varieties I grow usually make one nice ear. Some make a shorter second ear in good conditions. Granted, those shorter second ears are high quality.
Hi, i had to pull all my zuchinni and summer squash plants yesterday. I noticed the frass on some of them, to where it was almost cut in two. I also noticed the roots on the plants had these ball like things like a pearl necklace. Some were huge clumps. Since I live in central Florida I am wondering if it's the humidity or the soil. I know I have alot of potassium from the sand in the soil, but I added garden soil and manure and blood meal before planting, The plants started out great, but the fruit started and then just rotted before it got any bigger. I noticed these brownish red milipedes and water bugs in the dirt and used the de but the plants have never recovered. The plant itself looks great, It flowers and starts the fruit but dies, What could cause the roots to ball up like that? Is it the moth that was discussed? i know that it's getting too hot to replant here so thinking of starting them again in the fall. haven't had much luck with growing squash here. Thanks
normal for emergance. Subsequent growth will more uniform green.
I grew some last year from some five year old beans that my mom grew. The first leaves on mine looked exactly like yours and I was paranoid that they had some sort of disease but they turned out normal...