23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I could not find any sources on suckers growing in hydroponic medium. Here's what's available for in-ground suckers:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/suckers-growing-corn-plants-53804.html
So the great cob is a teacher, why is it the cocky ones seemed to have flunked math? A four foot wide bed with 1' spacing makes 5 rows. As well youcan put 11 plants lengthwise in 10' beds. So we now have 165 plants in 3 beds, not 120. You can do less, just thought I'd be as cocky as you!
I have plenty of room. I use rows 28 inches apart and 12 inches apart in the row. The varieties I grow usually make one nice ear. Some make a shorter second ear in good conditions. Granted, those shorter second ears are high quality.
Hi, i had to pull all my zuchinni and summer squash plants yesterday. I noticed the frass on some of them, to where it was almost cut in two. I also noticed the roots on the plants had these ball like things like a pearl necklace. Some were huge clumps. Since I live in central Florida I am wondering if it's the humidity or the soil. I know I have alot of potassium from the sand in the soil, but I added garden soil and manure and blood meal before planting, The plants started out great, but the fruit started and then just rotted before it got any bigger. I noticed these brownish red milipedes and water bugs in the dirt and used the de but the plants have never recovered. The plant itself looks great, It flowers and starts the fruit but dies, What could cause the roots to ball up like that? Is it the moth that was discussed? i know that it's getting too hot to replant here so thinking of starting them again in the fall. haven't had much luck with growing squash here. Thanks
Mostly Red Russian because it self sows and I find it the sweetest and most tender. It almost tastes as if it already has butter on it. I've also grown Winterbor and Pentland Brig but can't tell much difference between the various curly kales. I sometimes grow Cavolo Nero but nowadays I mainly just let the Red Russian grow itself. I grew Redbor once but it was a pitiful plant compared with the green ones when I tried it.
Hi, just wanted to do a small update:
Both kales are now permanently outside! The redbor has recovered brilliantly and is pushing out little leaves at every crevice and branch. Tasty :) Unfortunately, the winterbor is still yellowing and dropping its older leaves at about the same rate it is growing new baby ones, at the very tippy top. I'm wondering if it's too hot for winterbor already? Haven't felt confident enough to try a taste and see if the leaves are getting bitter since there aren't that much left.
I guess I do not have any secret, just the basics. Good seed variety, good soil, good air movement, full sun, water when needed but do not overwater. I do plant the seeds in compost. And I talk to my plants. ;)
It takes a little bit of effort to keep them trellised properly in the beginning. An every other day task of carefully weaving the vines in and out of the trellis as they grow. When vines get taller than the trellis and start to bend down I simply train them along the top of the trellis. Once plants start producing I spend very little if any time having to train vines, other than helping out an occasional vine while I am picking.
Basil never seemed to do well for me in the garden either. Not bad, just mediocre. I get such better results planting it in containers that I have never taken the time to figure out why I was having problems. Switched to container growing and never looked back.
Re starting this great thread with AWESOME photos, thanks for posting!!!! BTW did you remember the variety that you planted or a good one that will grow well up a Cattle Panel Trellis?? I love seeing Scarlet Runner Beans going up a cattle panel arch! THanks so much.
I agree with all the advice you've been given.
But let me add a couple things.
First off, it ISN'T a caterpillar. Learn to recognize caterpillars, because with them, you DO want to remove them and discard.
Aphids -- strong jet sprays on the undersides of the leaves usually does the trick. I use a spray nozzle with the water turned on just a tad. The trick is to be diligent -- every 3 days or so for a good couple weeks at dusk. If that doesn't do the trick, then you would want to use the least toxic and target specific pesticide for that particular pest, ALWAYS. -- so I.D. is terribly important. For aphids, that would be either neem oil or insecticidal soap.
Another idea is to, as you said, is to not "let nature take it's TOLL." , but to let nature take it's COURSE. In other words, research Integrated Pest Management. Planting certain plants that attract the GOOD bugs to control the BAD ones.
Good luck and btw, great looking cuke plants(except the aphids)!
Kevin
Rhubarb should not be picked the first year it's transplanted - not just new plants but any transplants. They need to use their energy establishing their root system in their new home, and it takes the first year to really get it going. So with plants planted this year, just let them be, keep moist. The leafs will die back end of summer/fall; Leave them be and next spring clean up the dead leafs and you'll be rewarded with new rhubarb growth.
Next year follow the rule of picking no more than 1/3 of the plant, as previously suggested. I typically quit picking at the end of June or 1st half of July. They will need the remainder of summer to store up energy for winter..
Cut off any flower stalks that appear. If left on, the rhubarb will get woody.
Rhubarb typically doesn't like real hot weather. My sister has tried it several times in zone 6/7 with no luck with it coming back or it dies before end of 1st summer. They like cool and moist....
I have a 12ft+ row of red 'Martha Washington' rhubarb that I've had for 28 years at this house and for 8 years at prior house. Just picked some this am for my co-worker. She's bringing in rhubarb crisp tomorrow:)
Sandy
Glad to hear you've got your answer. The link to the previous thread is below.
Rodney
Here is a link that might be useful: What cocoon?
Tent caterpillars that are striped yellow and black? It doesn't sound like tent caterpillars. But presumably you've looked at photos. To answer the other part of your question, no they aren't all related. At least not any more than all birds are the same. Various caterpillars favor different foods and have different degrees of "pest-ness", and plenty turn into wonderful butterflies and moths. Your cottony coccons could maybe be the work of the cabbage moth, especially if the corn is handy to the brassicas. Or it could be one of the untold hundreds of small moths and butterflies that go unidentified by most since they don't get up to anything bad in the garden.
Found out that the unidentified cocoon in my previous post is from the gypsy moth. Got my Purdue Extension newsletter today which had a picture of it as well as the history of the gypsy moth. Seems that our state has been hit with infestations of them this year.
Madonna
Yea, that's them... They usually leave older plants alone but they're a pain when direct seeding, growing soft fruit near the ground, or growing plants with tender leaves...
Good to hear that your plants are healthy.... Your plants are probably just good habitat for them bugs...
I planted some bulbs Jan 2013, didn't see anything so dug them up, at least I thought I did. This spring 2014 they were the first thing to pop up. The greens are tall, the base is thick and everything looks healthy above the soil. A friend just told me to wait for a little bulb to form at the top of the stem and then I'd know if they were good/ready? I was surprised to see them and can't wait to see if they are edible. Plant and experiment!
Oh, I get it. Cover as in frost blanket. Okra goes from bloom to maturity in about 3 days here. That's why I have to pick okra every. single. day. Ideally, you'd leave the pod to dry on the plant but I've never really paid attention to that timetable. You really just need the pod to be there long enough to get really big and woody. That's about a week, maybe two. You can cut the stem and dry the pod off the plant if you have to. I wouldn't leave it on the plant if it was about to freeze, even covered.
It shouldn't be a problem though. Just bag the first bloom and save that one. 4 months is plenty of time.
Leslie
I'll try it. Is it too late to save the ones in pic 2? I have more seeds I can plant. Thanks Dave!
This post was edited by soilgarden on Fri, Jun 6, 14 at 15:37
I can't tell from the pic if it has any new growth or not. If it does then it should recover. The one in first pic will do ok.
Dave