23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I put in a raised bed (12") over Bermuda without digging it up or killing it and that stuff has no problem coming up in the raised bed, especially along the inside edges. Next time I'll certainly kill it first and use the cardboard method described above.
Good luck.
I put in a raised bed (12") over Bermuda without digging it up or killing it and that stuff has no problem coming up in the raised bed, especially along the inside edges. Next time I'll certainly kill it first and use the cardboard method described above.
Good luck.
I plant mine about a foot deep but leave the trench open and only cover the crowns with a few inches of soil. Then I fill it in gradually keeping the growing tips always above the soil level so the young plants can keep photosynthesizing. The following year they'll come up right through that soil on their own.
-Mark
The requirements are sounding like they are driving you to get one of those store-bought containers. At least the fencing or chicken wire would be a reasonable building material for some, but that seems to be disallowed.
Buy a trash can for about $20 or less. The 32-gallons are around this price range but are much smaller than 64 cf.
But for a really free option, use the free pallets. Many or most are already 4x4 so you don't even have to worry much about measurements. Make a lid of some sort to fill in that first requirement but I think such a large bin isn't really good to have a lid.
Why not go over to the Composting forum here as they have FAQS about all the various types of containers you can buy and build already posted. Plus unlimited discussions about the advantages and disadvantages of many of them.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Soil & Composting Forum
Non of our local organic nurseries (We have MANY in Sonoma Co!) have frost sensitive veges out more than a week or so before our last day of frost date (April 15th) and even then they usually have a sign that there is still a possibility of frost and to protect your plants and look at the weather reports for a few weeks.
The big box stores had them out mid March! Buy em, plant em, come back and buy em again when they freeze! Nancy
I concur with the others about not using the big box stores as a timing for when to plant stuff. Lowe's already has tomato and pepper seedlings for sale here. In Michigan. We're still at least 3-4 weeks away from the time tomatoes can be planted (even then we have to look out for an occasional frost/low temp). And it's more like 6-8 weeks for peppers. It's still getting down to the 30's at night and it's only 40*F here as I'm writing this.
As for the original question about the Farmer's almanac, I never used it.
Rodney
This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Wed, Apr 23, 14 at 11:03
traps baited with peanut butter work pretty good for mice. for voles, find their tunnel entrance holes. set mouse traps at the entrance but tie them down with wire or drill a hole in them & anchor them with a large nail. with the squirrels I live trap them or get out my air rifle. last year I carefully harvested the buckeyes from my bottle brush buckeyes . every one that I planted the squirrels got. I just dispatched one ten minutes ago digging up bulbs.
I just germinated a tray of various beans tonight. I set all if the beans out to soak this morning, so they soaked for about 12 hours. After I put them in the tray I set the tray on a seed heating mat. This is my first time trying this method. I'll be sure to let you know how it goes.
Slugs eat the ferric (iron) phosphate (Sluggo, Correys, etc.) and die from within the "stomach." It doesn't kill them by them crawling over it. It has low to no toxicity. It's not a "poison," unlike the other kinds of slug killers.
The following website has answers to all your questions about it. I find these pellets to be the easiest and safest way to deal with slugs.
Here is a link that might be useful: iron phosphate info
I saw a BCS when I bought the Honda, but it was just tiller (I think you could order implements for it.
They were about the same price, but the Honda has 2 forwward speeds (which about doubles the price.) I got it half off, though, since I lived in TN at the time and after 4 years of drought, the dealer has been sitting on it a long time.
I've kept this tiller so long because I don't want to put out the bucks for a new 2 speeder, and I won't have it any other way.
Thanks for the answers. I do have enough space to try my "mutts" so I may do that, though after reading these answers I reordered some new Orangeglo seeds. One thing about trying my mutts....how awful would it be if I turned out to have some incredible new variety and would never be sure how to recreate it! I had a total of 6 varieties of watermelons all together so there is no telling which one may have pollinated the melon I got these seeds from!
I really do appreciate you all explaining the pollination/offspring thing even though it was probably a very elementary question to most of you. I must say I really enjoy growing several different species of watermelons and cantaloupes so I guess I'll just be buying new seeds each year! Thanks again.
Seeds do last more than one year. (if you had any left over) What I do is I just plant more seeds as the years go by and as germination rates go down.
Then again, in 1/2 acre, maybe you used all your seeds?
So here's a dumb question for you: are you selling watermelons?
Cutworms may be prevalent where there was sod. If you plant toatoes, peppers, or brassica plants you can put a little collar of aluminum foil around the stem about an inch above and below the surface.
Unfortunately, you may may still wake up one morning to find a row of beans mowed down. If this happens, try to find the critter just under the soil at the last plant eaten, and send him to the Elysian Fields.
Here is a link that might be useful: cutworm
I think you are going to find the Growing from Seed forum here the most helpful. Lots of FAQs covering all the basics including equipment needed, how-tos, recommended soils to use. Just click on the blue FAQ button there.
While many gardeners routinely grow their own transplants from seed indoors, using rockwool is not common or recommended as it is used primarily in hydroponics and has some unique issues potting mixes do not have.
Personally I would return them to the store that pushed them off on you. But if you want to use rockwool specialty equipment will be needed and the folks on the Hydroponics forum here can best help with that,
Good luck.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed forum
I agree with Wayne_5's method. With a last frost day in mid-May, you could put yours out around June 1. I suggest you start over by planting new seeds 3-4 to a cup around May 1. As he said, it's best if they are no more than three or four weeks old when you plant them outside. Before putting them outside, use scissors to cut all but one of the seedlings out of each cup leaving the healthiest one. Can you give them more light? They need to be very close to a sunny window, and they need sun all day. If you have fluorescent lights, you can grow them one or two inches under the lights and give them 16 hours of light a day.
We all make rookie mistakes. That's how we learn. Don't get discouraged. In my many years of growing plants I've probably killed many more than I was able to brag about.
They are treated in the fields with various treatments - see link below. Supplemental treatment may be applied in storeage. But the inhibitors don't prevent sprouting, just slow it so yes, stored potatoes will usually sprout - eventually.
There are many discussions here about using store-bought poatoes as seed potatoes in the home garden. The forum search will pull them up for you. It is a fairly common practice.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Potato sprout inhibitors
Farmerdill and Digdirt - Dave,
THANK YOU for your information and links.
I have added "Sprout inhibitors" to my-words-of-wisdom-list.
Thank you again..... Lola