24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening



A study was done on using copper. What worked best was two bare copper wires connected to a 9 volt battery. Connect one wire to the plus side and the other to the negative side. Create a barrier by runniing the wires 1/2 inch apart. Do not let the wires touch each other since that will short the battery. When the slugs cross the wires they complete the circuit and it will repel or kill them.

Agree with Rodney the growing medium could be your problem. If you don't want to re-pot the plants, you might try adding a nitrogen containing fertilizer or supplement...just be careful, adding too much nitrogen could hurt your plants. You can also sprinkle soil on top and water it in to help balance out the organic matter.
This post was edited by grandad on Tue, Sep 16, 14 at 7:10


I plan to cover carrots with straw to keep the ground from freezing so I can continue harvesting. Kale doesn't get any cover. Beets can stand up to light frosts.
I would go ahead with hoops and row cover on broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower but throw a blanket over at night if it's going to get really cold. Take off in the morning. They can tolerate some cold. I have a high tunnel and it gets as cold inside as outside at night so I still have to use row covers inside when it gets colder.
I have not used plastic and hoops because I worry about ventilation. If' it's a sunny day, even with double door open and sides rolled up, my high tunnel can get very warm. Many days in summer it got over 100 but peppers loved the extra heat. I debating now when to roll down the sides. A frost is probably going to happen Friday night and I'm going to be away.


As pea pods get bigger, they tend to stay flat and wide before seeds start to develop (at which point they are usually too mature). I think the seeds in shelling peas expand as the pod gets larger and the pod starts getting round right from the beginning. I grow peapods and sugar snaps. Once the pods start showing, I think you'll be able to tell the difference. They aren't going to stay on their own side of the fence.


Centella asiatica is a medicinal herb, so you may get better responses in the herb forum. I know little about except that it can be grown as an annual. It is a tropical plant and subject to frost, so overwintering would require a green house environment. That means both light and sufficient warmth so I doubt that a garage would be sufficient. You could probably treat it as house plant.
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Gotu Kola


Silvering is just a silvery-colored pattern that appears on the leaf veins of some types/varieties of squash (as you can see in your pic). It's a natural leaf variation. You see it a lot on zucchini.
Rodney
This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Sun, Sep 14, 14 at 19:07

I can't speak for Spaghetti Squash, but Acorn squash is ripe when it is a very dark green (most varieties), gets an orange spot where it was touching the ground, and is hard to dent with a fingernail. Acorn squash ripens fairly quickly, relatively speaking, and is not as finicky about being 100% ripe to be tasty (but does not store as long).

this is english walnut, so low juglone. The root system will be an asset to your garden, once it is well dead and decomposing. A decent way to kill the tree is to cut it flush with the soil, then paint Round Up around the cambium.
I would even suggest that you bury whatever branches are left, or save the wood chips for mulching in future years. Build the beds on top of the stumps. The juglone will disappear quickly once they are dead.
You could also buy a wood stove with catalytic converter, and use the wood ash to fertilize your beds (only add nitrogen). Walnut wood is high quality, probably there will be someone willing to pay for it.


I tried planting them in early July, and the seedlings just sat there, unhappy with the heat and not growing until the weather cooled, and I won't even be close to being on target to get sprouts this year unless we have a very mild December and I get lucky with Christmastime sprouts. I assume I will have similar troubles planting in June, it will probably be hot by the 4th of July. Was it perhaps the variety, can you recommend one for our zone for growing over summer?
TracyDR: That makes sense. My available horse manure does break down quickly, and in MA we have chopped leaves! I JUST happen to have bed very much like your description. I was planning onions, but perhaps I will put a few Brussels at one end, to test my soil!
Mark: I am rolling in cabbage immediately next to the Brussels, and they are just starting to head up nicely. Which is good, cause we just started eating second planting of Caraflex from another bed. I parked them there, on a lasagna compost system, sans carpet, from last year. I didn't expect much, soil was very young, but they are great.
Our summer was cooler than usual, nights in low 60's, and hi 50's. Most days 70-80, with a week or so higher in August. Basically perfect broccoli weather. A local vegetable gardening friend told me to look at calcium in the soil. Does low calcium affect Brussels, but not cabbage, broccoli, or cauliflower? My memory says it is a trace nutrient... Off to check.
KateQ