23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Thanks for the link. I will definitely look into neem oil. Sorry I took so long to reply. After I did that strenuous project I went onto another one...TAXES! lol totally drained me in more ways than one.
I've grown Golden Bantam before. It's very small. Funny there's a 3 Stooges episode where Curly was biting on the cuckoo clock's weights and after Moe confronts him he say he thought it was Golden Bantam which is about the same size.
Yeah Andy, corn is really sensitive. I figure I only have last year's seed to lose. I could replant later. Oak leaves aren't out yet but are starting here. Traditionally you plant when they're the size of squirrel's ears. However you still can get some cold so it;'s always a good idea to have something like straw or row covers to protect them over night.
I've been adding sand to heavy clay soil for over 40 years, and it always improves plant growth. I grow some of the rarest and most difficult plants on Earth in clay soil amended with sand. It is best if the sand makes up at least 25% of the soil by volume. Don't listen to the hysteria; just try it yourself. The main problem is that you need to wait until the clay is workable: not too wet, not too dry.
But remember that there are many other variables that you need to worry about, such as adjusting soil acidity and providing fertilizer and water at the right times. Hopefully, there is plenty of sun in that area, or you aren't going to have much luck with veggies.
If you want to understand how sand interacts with clay and silt to make soil, Google "soil triangle". Loam and sandy loam soils are the best garden soils for general-purpose gardening. If you have clay loam, you can make loam or sandy loam by adding sand. If you have pure clay, you probably need to replace it with purchased soil. My rule of thumb: any soil which produces a good crop of weeds or grass can be amended to make good garden soil.
One of the best things about using sand is that the improvement in your soil is permanent, because sand does not decompose like compost. So you won't have to spend the rest of your life lugging compost and digging it in. On the other hand, it's always a good idea to add a little compost every year. Mulching with compost is the easiest way to do this, and helps to keep the soil cool and moist.
In the past I've planted well over 9 seeds per square for beans and have gotten excellent results. It really turned the area into a jungle of beans. I wouldn't recommend doing more than 9 seeds per square, but I've really been poor at thinning in the past (still not my strongest area). But, we did get a number of large harvests. One of the things about intensive gardening you do likely get less per plant than what you likely would get if you didn't plant intensively, but because you have more plants in a given area you often get more from the area. That said, intensive gardening does require the soil to be in really good shape and to give proper care to the plants. Also, don't expect to be taking many photos of your harvest and having large sized items. Intensive gardening and giant pumpkins don't go together.
"Sorry, but I've got a bad case of cabin fever......"
Nah, that's just gardener's frost bite. ;-) Got a pretty bad case of it myself. I'm wondering if all of the transplants I've got indoors will get planted on time, or whether they will die waiting for good weather (as most of them did last year).
OWW Zeedman, that hurts when you baby them, then lose them!
I just raised the lights again on my tomatoes and peppers, I started from seed 4 weeks ago.
I was planning to plant them this week, under a hoop, but the weather is too bad. They are getting too big for the solo cups and no end of bad weather in sight.
I'm going to run out of head-space for the lights and I'm probably going to have to re-pot them again. If I do I'll have to rig up lights somewhere else unless it warms enough to harden them off outside for the second time........
Just this past Thursday alone we got about 2" of rain. It rains almost constantly up here. And the thing is that we get NO run off, because the rain is very gentle. It never pours down like down in GA. That is why I have raised bed with well drained soil. I have also covered the beds with black plastic , leaving just a 8" circle hole for the tomatoes. So most of the water runs off.
If you get standing water in the moat, can you drain it? Use a hose for a syphon? Bail with a bucket?
Here is how we grow tomatoes when it's overly wet.
Here is a link that might be useful: Floating garden
This post was edited by terry_neoh on Sat, Apr 19, 14 at 14:06
I never really thought about it and don't recall it ever coming up. I would mostly just eyeball them for healthiness and decide based on that. Are the roots pliable, not brittle and dry? Are they free of mold and not slimy? Then they are probably good to plant.
Potatoes are just like tomatoes (first cousins) . They can grow in a wide pH range ( 5.5 to 6.8 ?) . But usually they(potato farmers) make potato soil more acidic( low pH about 6) that is just to prevent scabs not because of productivty or plant's health. Since you are not going to sell your crop, a few scabs is not going to matter much. Just grow them in the same pH range as you do tomatoes, peppers,..
What may affect potato productivity is POTASH for better tubing. So fertilize with a high "K" fertilizer.
Add some crushed dolomotic limestone (agricultural lime) with your potting mix. This will help neutrilize the soil if it is too acid, and it will add magnesium.
Many plants, especially solanaceae (tomatoe, peppers, potatoes, eggplant) need magnesium to form chlorophyll (the green stuff in plants). It, quite literally, can't hurt.
Slimy Okra I think you're spot on when you say:
"Overwatering compounded by too-cool nights can easily do them in, usually by triggering a fungal infection. That would also explain why your okra, cantaloupe and cucumber seedlings are doing the worst of all."
I *think* this is what has happened. Everything else seems to be doing splendidly! Well darn, I was quite fond of those heirloom tomatoes. Guess I'll just start more seeds this weekend. You live, you learn.
Thanks so much Tracydr and everyone else.
I planted the seeds about a week ago in egg cartons and have been watering them once in the morning and once in the afternoon, none have sprouted yet but I'm sure they'll take some time.
Cross your fingers for me! :) x
Crossing my fingers! If any of your seeds are for peppers you may want to put them in a warm spot so that the soil is about 75-80 degrees. Tomatoes, too. Move them off the warm place when you see them pop up.
Celery ,parsley and cilantro (coriander) also do well in fall. Arugula is very easy, just sprinkle seed on the ground and keep it damp for several days.
nancyjane, Perhaps you could save one bed for winter planting. Cover crops are nice for beds not in use.
I planted the first planting of sweet corn [of 7] a couple days ago. Also we planted part of the potatoes, set out the rest of the early broccoli, set out the early butterhead lettuce and spinach, and sowed beets and carrots. The ground is working up nicely.
I am In Atlanta, and I can say that our weather has been having a few uncharacteristically cold nights of recent. And by recent I mean all month. I think you will see them grow healthier over the next three weeks when our soil temps get well above the 60 degree point. Right now our soil has been hovering around 45-50 which can be a little cold for them. Especially if you started them indoors.
I'm experimenting this year. I had some left over seed potatoes and planted them in 30 gallon Rubbermaid tubs. We will see how it goes. I used just a general purpose potting mix I picked up at the hardware store, can't remember the brand though.
First, you will need a deep container.
You fill your container about 10" from the bottom.
Place the seeds on it and covert with about 3 to 4 inches of additional soil. So far you have used about 13-14" of depth. Tomato will grow roots (NOT TUBERS) in this portion of the soil and will get the moisture and the nutrient from that part.
After the tomato sprouts and grows, you start filling around/between the stems: THIS IS WHERE THE TUBERS WILL GROW. This part needs NOT to have ANY nutrients but has to be fluffy so the tubers can grow in it easily. This part should have a depth of about 8". So this results in an over all container depth of about 20 -22 inches.
Therefore it is important that the lower 13" (wher the roots will grow) to consist of very rich and balanced nutrients, before you plant in it. I will mix in some compost, manure , pine bark fine, peat moss and some perlite. Or use something like ProMix with added CRF.
anatomy of potato plant. Though not a very good one.
mdfarmer I would recommend getting a soil test from CSI ( Crop Services International ) and get a very good soil test that will change everything in your garden. You will find what is tied up and get minerals and all the good things back into your soil to bring back the teast you once had.
I have got one from them this Spring and am very pleased with what I did not know about my soil. NO more NPK testing any more.
In response to the tomato ripening issue I found out the hard way last year that tomatoes are the true "Goldie Locks" of the garden: they don't like it too cold, or too hot, but juuuuust right.
The below is copied for horticultural website but can be found in numerous places... Hope it helps!
"Ripening and color development in tomatoes is governed primarily by two factors: temperature and the presence of a naturally occurring hormone called "ethylene."
The optimum temperature range for ripening mature green tomatoes is 68��"77 deg. F. The further temperatures stray from the optimum, the slower the ripening process will be. And, when temperatures are outside the optimum range for extended periods, conditions may become so stressful that the ripening process virtually halts.
At the same time, tomatoes do not produce lycopene and carotene, the pigments responsible for ripe tomato color, when temperatures are above 85 deg. F. So, extended periods of extreme heat cause tomatoes to stop ripening. The resulting fruits often appear yellowish green to yellowish orange."
http://www.motherjones.com/blue-marble/2011/04/your-organic-compost-really-sewage-sludge-rosario-dawson-kellogg-amend
Story on Kellogg using sewage
Here is a link that might be useful: Sewage in Kellogg soil
The Mother Jones info is dated. Perhaps it is why Kellogg changed the product. Amend is now OMRI listed and OMRI listed products do not contain biosolids/sludge composted or otherwise.. I have some of the old product and the new. The label is different and so is the smell.