24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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nickrosesn

This was my first year at growing onions and it went better then I thought. I started the seeds in garden last October and then in April I moved them to there final location. Right now there in the final curing stages. This October I will do Walla Wallas again, and then a long storage type and then a long storage red onion.

Walla Walla Onions

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hudson___wy(3)

Nice onions NickRose - that's impressive that you started them from seed!

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wertach zone 7-B SC

Maybe a seedless cuke instead of Marketmoore?

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calliope(6)

I had very late development of the hard seed coat on my cukes this year, and suspect it was weather dependent. The temps varied little from day to night, and we had numerous showers and it was like growing in a greenhouse. Some of the fruits I nearly discarded because of their size turned out to be quite palatable yet, with small, tender seeds and lacking the tough kernels. If your marketmores (and it's a variety I grow every year along with my picklers) were still green, they were immature. A ripe cuke goes yellow. Poor pollination on a marketmore would have yielded no or misshapen fruit, not one with no seed coat.

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Cut the flowers off since they are just wasting energy. If they are vining types it might help to clip the ends of the vines... maybe. Other than that I don't think pruning the plants will help.

Rodney

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planatus(6)

The fingernail test is the best way to tell if they are not ready. If a thumbnail easily pierces the rind, not ready. With pumpkins color is a good indicator, and with others you can check the bottoms of the fruits for a color change toward yellow or orange.

My Baby Pam pie pumpkins are on the curing shelf along with a few buttercups, but most of the fruits aren't ready. The longer they stay on the vine, the better, but bad things don't happen to them on a shelf in warm shade. I do leave the field pumpkins out until the vines start dying back.

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springtogarden(6A)

Thank you, defrost49! I was wondering if the sugars would be better after sitting. I would have made a mistake. I will let them cure before eating them.

planatus, I so agree! Bad things can and do happen on the vine. I am debating it right now just for that very reason. I will look at the bottoms for coloring and keep doing the fingernail test. Thank you!

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missingtheobvious(Blue Ridge 7a)

If all the leaves at the end of a branch are wilting/dying -- and the branch tip is also, I'd suspect squash vine borers (SVBs).

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grubby_AZ Tucson Z9

Wood remnants grow fungi dedicated to the breakdown of dead materials. As far as I know, this is an entirely separate plate of beans from the predatory things that may be affecting your living plants. For instance, the two main "mildews" that affect cukes may gather in wood chips but they would also do the same in bare dirt, straw, pine needles, old gloves, and so on. The spores are everywhere, but wood is no magic safe nurturing harbor for them.

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laceyvail(6A, WV)

I have used wood chips for the paths, not the beds, of my permanent bed garden for many years. I use hay, not straw, around the veggies. No problems.

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

Yes, get them started and keep well watered.

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drscottr(7)

Got them from Kube Pak. Ison's sells them too.
For Kube Pak I made up the name of a nursery and filed a form as a nursery.

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

Hmmmmmmm. Lori, You may have helped me with a dilemma I've had! DH bought me a pretty cheapo tumbler. It's almost impossible to get the stuff out without spilling it all over the place.
If I just place it over a fallow bed and dump it every once in awhile I'll have the best of both worlds!!!!!!! Thanks! Nancy

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chickencoopcomposter

I've been using a 'chicken coop composter'. The chickens live over the compost and scratch and shred it, and eat the kitchen scraps. It takes up relatively little room. I posted videos on youtube on how to make it. Just search my user name, chickencoopcomposter, on youtube.

Here is a link that might be useful: youtube

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erin_nc(7)

Growing up on the farm, raccoons in the corn was a real problem. I remember my parents trying just about everything. The thing that finally worked was the least expensive of all.

My teenage brother had horrendously smelly feet. Mom would make him do a few barefoot laps around the corn patch very couple of days.

I know it sounds ridiculous, but it worked.

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klem1

That boy must have sooommee stinky feet.

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Slimy- about as sure as I can be without a camera monitoring it! But really it is that they do not ripen when brought inside after collecting fallen fruit.

I thought the premise was that the fruit only fall off the plant when ripe or very near ripe- the husk is yellow to brown and papery dry. So when you scoop them off the ground you bring them in and let them sit a couple of days or so then open your husks to hopefully find ripe fruit. What I have been finding is distinctly greenish fruit in a brown husk and those fruit stay green for so long (weeks, months) I eventually toss them. There are usually a few that are actually ripe.

Lily, thanks for the commiseration! If I ever figure it out, I'll pass along the info!

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cedar_wa(z8)

Just came home from our 4-H daycare garden. The Ground Cherries (Aunt Molly) are ripe this year and a big hit with the kids. I have heard that they are poisonous until they fall off the plant. I warned the kids that they need to carefully pull up the leaves to find the ripe ones on the ground. This is an unusually warm sunny summer here in PNW so there should be a lot of GC until fall. I tasted some and very sweet - almost like a cherry. The fruit was almost the size and color of sungold tomato.

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farmerdill

watermelon, possibly a citron

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tracydr(9b)

I had random watermelons show up twice in my yard. I think the seeds were in flood irrigation or carried by birds. Mine mad a lot of big melons from about 5 volunteers but they were in shade so never fully ripened.

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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Lack of pollination. They'll grow those several inches on their own. You must be the bee.

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

I always thought that they only carried 1 or 2 fruits per vine to ripeness. I don't think the vines have the nutrients to ripen all those potential fruits, so they are unneeded backups. But maybe I'm mistaken, it's only my second season growing winter squashes.

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hilnaric

Hi, shelleyk.

You might want to ask this in the Australian vegetable gardening forum, since your challenges and options for dealing with them are going to be different than they are in the US, where most of the folks who post here live.

Here is a link that might be useful: Australian vegetable gardening

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