23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Depends what tools you have to work it with.
My beds 25ft x 7 ft. I weed with a shuffle hoe. I have 10 of these beds. I put a peice ply wood (1 ft. x 8 ft.) across them to plant.
i used to have 3 foot wide bed , To me They were alot of trouble.
Agree with the above but please don't layer your additions. That creates drainige and rooting problems. Rather mix in all the ingredients you add well throughout the bed.
Your woodland soil should work fine but can't say for sure without seeing it. And adding in lots of quality compost can only make it better. It may take a day trip out of the coutny to find cheaper stuff.
Good luck.
Dave
It sounds like your beds are already in place but I'll say this anyway.
What I do to suppress cost of materials and soil amendments is to match the plant root requirements with box size. As a result, I have cost saving 5 inch beds on top of clay-ish soil that work out well for things like spinach and kale. From deeper root systems like tomatoes that love their roots well drained, I have higher beds.
For me, the main importance of raised beds is to keep soil from being compacted, to drain the water more freely, and to avoid weeding. Unfortunately my clay soil means I have to import compost, etc.
Mine here in FL are doing the same thing. There is huge diversity in the "onion" world. The flowers may be sterile, in which case they won't decrease growth very much. If they do make true seed, they may prove to be good self-sowers, which can be very handy.
Posted by garyfla 10 Florida (My Page) on
Sun, Mar 9, 14 at 7:24
Hi
i went to visit my daughter in se Kansas and carefully chose May to avoid the cold weather Was snowing on the day we arrived!!! .
Thankfully it has not done so since . Whenever I start to whine about the weather i always think of Kansas lol gary
Yuup native NE Kansan here....... May snow is not uncommon
We're had several days of 60 mph wind gusts. Posted pics of my low tunnel fabric, sigh....... Parts of Nebraska are getting a blizzard & it's 78F here!
My hot peppers right now more then a foot tall. flowering and branching... Good news? No, bad) They have 2 more inches to grow to overgrow the window I have for them... And I can't even set up my portable heated green house on the deck as usual - the heater is no match to freezing temps that expected for at least 3-4 more weeks...
And ground is still frozen...
I try to convince my tomatoes to slow down... Looks like they do not understand either English or Russian)
like a fat green onion. But I didnt plant green onions, I starter white onion from seeds.
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To my understanding :
There is no difference between what is called GREEN onion and just onions in early stage. Any onion harvested young and early is called GREEN onions , scallions. Some onions are bred as BUNCHING onions that would not bulb much. BUT they are all ONIONS.
You could try pulling them apart and planting a few and tossing the rest into dinner. Your best source of information would be the seed packet. If it is a bunching onion, you may as well eat them now. If it is a bulbing onion, you could try a few in the ground to see what happens.
Could be amount of light exposure - they are bending to reach more light. Could also be that the stems were lanky/leggy/too weak to begin with so they bend back and forth in an effort to support the top growth until the stems can strengthen up some.
Could also be excess N stimulating too-rapid top growth for the plant to adjust to.
Dave
They are in full sun except where there might be shading from other veg plants. I change beds every year and every year it is the same. I will do some soil tests. Just read they have opinions about pH. The stems are very hefty -- the base gets so big around I have to use a saw to cut it.
Also read they want a lot of feeding during the season. I must admit that except for compost at planting and the odd drizzle of fish/kelp solution, I'm not good at fertilizing.
Just took a walk through the community gardens and past the farm. BS plants left standing through a hellacious winter are STILL standing up straight and tall. My one remaining plant (left for late fall harvest and then ... whammo, way too much snow too soon) is laid flat out.
Looks more like ultraviolet damage to me (the first pic anyway). The lights may be too close or they may be getting light when it is too cool. Ensure that it is at least 70 degrees during the photoperiod.
The leaves also look very tender. On warm days, try exposing them to some sun and wind to harden them off a bit.
I had this problem with eggplants in the past and it went away when I exposed them to some sunshine to force some hardening off.
This post was edited by Slimy_Okra on Mon, Mar 31, 14 at 11:02
ok. that makes sense. I keep my house on the cooler side...I don't run the furnace unless it gets below 60. I thought the lights would keep it warm enough. I can set them out on the porch this week since the weather will be in the 70's all week here.
Thanks!
If you sowed it last spring then it should have been harvested last year. This year it would have flowered and the elongation of the stem in your picture indicates it was about to. Onions can be tricky and in less than optimal conditions often don't 'bulb up' giving you a thin stem as in your picture. Unless, of course you planted what we call 'Spring onions' and I believe you call scallions, which are not meant to bulb up.
Hey y'all, don't know how many of you know there is a mid-atlantic forum here too and those folks are planning a meetup/plant swap for spring. Don't know if I can make it to Burtonsville, but maybe some of you are interested?
Here is a link that might be useful: Maryland swap thread
Lights are blue or white LEDs (I'll have to look for specifics in the morning). I typically keep the lights very close to the plants once they start to come up. The containers I use are 4-pack cells bought from the local garden center.
I think I'll just stick to direct sowing or using volunteers for my brassicas from now on. It's too much work and space to have these things keep dying.
The pot pictured above has a bottom that is approximately 2" smaller in diameter than the top, so it's 23" at the top and 21" at the bottom
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So it has over 23 DRY GALLONS of volume.
I rest my case with digdirt (Dave) . He wrote :
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" ...You have a 9-10 gallon pot so you could do 2 plants in it but they will be smaller than normal and will require more feeding and more watering than if just 1 plant was in it. .."
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Now how many peppers you want to plant int it, it is your choice.
This post was edited by seysonn on Mon, Mar 31, 14 at 5:12
This is my first try with tomatillos, too, and mine started out a bit leggy as well. I potted them up, burying the stem as with tomatoes, and now they are happy as can be. I have kept the lights so low they almost touch since then and that seems to be helping as well.
You've asked this question before and it has been answered. See the link below. As I said in your other post, all garlic grows well here (I'm about 20 miles SW of Detroit). It's just a matter of your personal taste preferences and whether you like them hot and garlic-y or if you like them more mild.
Rodney
Here is a link that might be useful: Garlic
i'm in a similar zone to you and i planted my garlic on the 15th of october. it has really taken off now (we have had a warm spring):
but the time for choosing your variety is in the fall. perhaps you could find some later in the summer at a farmers market and then save the largest cloves of ta type you like.
This post was edited by jonathanpassey on Sun, Mar 30, 14 at 22:07
If you like snow peas, there are some early varieties that don't grow but about 2 feet tall. They would probably work. I think burpee has a carrot called little fingers that can be planted one inch a part, great container carrot, and then one called short and sweet. I think it's a 3 inch carrot. My experience with edible pod peas is that they put on from the bottom up, so you may find that you could get a bit of a harvest before they got root bound. In my area, the heat gets to peas before they would naturally peak out, So I often just get a few pickings. Zone 6 probably is better for peas.
Sure, you can plant any and all of them in 7.5" deep soil, as long as they are watered and fed. That includes peas too.