23,822 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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tobemeghan(5/6)

Jean,
The green house is about 75 of cloudy days and 80-85 with sun (then I open the vents). At night it gets to about 55-60.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2014 at 9:46AM
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Slimy_Okra(2b)

What kind of potting mix are you using? Are you fertilizing them? Are you over or under-watering? A picture would be helpful.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2014 at 11:24AM
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jensubzero

Thanks terry_neoh for all those possible problems, it's really good to know all these. I will definitely look them up for more info and see if I can dig around to see what's down there.

And, the pollination, yes, I've been going out each morning with a tiny paintbrush to pollinate if I have to. It's kind of fun! I've also tried to plant more flowers around to attract the bees.

Thanks art_1! I had high hopes for Mel's Mix, but it was disappointing. The mix was just too light and needed more "substance" as my neighbor told me.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 7:09PM
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MrClint

Looks like you may not have selected a suitable compost element for your Mel's mix. I've been using homemade compost in Mel's mix for years and it works well, as advertised and expected. Also, the bed doesn't look raised to me. The idea is to use Mel's mix on top of the native soil, not incorporated into it.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2014 at 9:18AM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

As was said, leafminers. Do as the other poster suggested.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2014 at 2:06AM
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pnbrown

BTW, did you know that the red russian kale is a superb self-sower? Let them go to seed and you won't have to buy seed again, most likely.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2014 at 7:04AM
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johns.coastal.patio(USDA 10b, Sunset 24)

I am sorry you are having trouble, but it is tough starting out, when you haven't seen good (and bad) growth cycles before.

Did you remove the cover after seeds popped up? One problem can be too much humidity and too little light.

Since I don't have grow lights I try to get them by a window as soon as possible. And with the top of I prefer watering with a mister.

This may not help, sorry. Maybe watching some (more) seed starting videos will help.

In terms of how much time you have, have you found a garden calendar (online) for your area. I found one for my zone with nice "do this now" and "you are late" instructions.

Good luck.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2014 at 12:27AM
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tracydr(9b)

Pea sprouts are delicious. If you do need to thin make a salad or stir fry with the peas and micro-kale.

    Bookmark     April 29, 2014 at 8:51PM
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moraleagle(6a)

Still, the idea of eating seedlings is not attractive to me... So I'll transplant this Sunday before the rain.

    Bookmark     May 2, 2014 at 4:25PM
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wertach zone 7-B SC

You might want to re-post this in the Allium forum for better answers, I don't have a clue myself!

Here is a link that might be useful: Allium

    Bookmark     May 2, 2014 at 11:20AM
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PranaVida(11)

Thanks, I just did that.

    Bookmark     May 2, 2014 at 11:25AM
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Newbie-gardener

Here's an update. They look a bit better now now that they have more air circulation and less watering. The peat pots actually got a chance to dry lately. Here's a closer look at the possible mold. Probably mold, yes?

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 11:02PM
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Newbie-gardener

A look at the curl and yellowing. The new leaf looks green and happy at least.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 11:04PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Thanks for catching that Slimy. I missed the okra completely.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 8:09PM
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ceth_k(11)

Assuming the soil textures in equal condition, the one thing that decides plants watering need is the characteristic of their roots. The stronger, longer, wider, deeper root types need less watering(the exceptions here are those root crops that need a lot water ) and the shorter, weaker, shallower root types need as frequent watering as they could get(i.e. most leafy vege and squash family).

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 10:59PM
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tishtoshnm Zone 6/NM

So Wayne, does corn have to be covered if there is a freeze coming. My soil is warm enough but my last freeze is May 15th. Of course, I could just try some and see what happens. Where else could I get my jollies for just a $2 packet of seeds?

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 1:49PM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

Sweet corn is more tender than field corn and anything below 35ð or 36ð may damage them some. Freezing temps ? forget it.

Covering helps, yes.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 4:47PM
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howelbama(7 NJ)

Wikipedia

Here is a link that might be useful: Cutworms

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 11:16AM
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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Cutworms +1

Stick about 3 toothpicks right next to the stalk so they can't wrap around and clip them. Haven't lost a single seedling to them since I started doing this.

Kevin

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 2:43PM
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pnbrown

It is the heat more than anything else and that was considerably exacerbated by being in containers. Early march is overly late to plant in the Orlando area - mid to late january is the correct time. A half-zone north in Lake county I plant in late january and that generally strikes a good balance between mostly avoiding frost-nip to the emerging foliage and the mature plants running into long hot days. Greater Orlando has much fewer frost events, depending of where you are you might even plant in late December.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 8:22AM
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missxnish

I planted red potatoes bought from the farmer's market. This book I'm reading said to plant in March so I did. I'll try February next year. I put 4-5 potatoes per gallon 15 gallon container.

Thank you all for your comments and advice.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 1:30PM
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pureguava

It's erratic spring weather out here (80s one day, 50 the next, high winds, sometimes frost- Colorado!) I definitely started the melons too early- they are going crazy! I wanted a jump on the season and got too eager. The aerogarden is great for seed starting but now I have near 60 plants in need of bigger pots because it got crowded. I put some in peat pots but have been reading that those aren't good (for moisture management) so will be heading back to the store to get plastic pots for the super-leggy tomatoes and peppers.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 12:52PM
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howelbama(7 NJ)

well, good thing about leggy tomatoes is you can just bury them deep when you transplant.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 1:02PM
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ceth_k(11)

OMG the kittens are so cute and cuddly !

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 7:46AM
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ltilton

Cats are very good on voles. Mine are inside/outside cats and living in doesn't blunt their predacious edge.

Getting old does, however, alas.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 10:22AM
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terry_neoh(5b)

The change in the leaf stems give them a higher surface area to volume ratio, which would make them more efficient at expelling and evaporating water. It would do this either to rid itelf of harmful ammounts of water, or to cool the plant, or a combination of both.

However, leaves (foiliage) woud be naturally more efficient at these tasks than stems. So maybe something on the leaves like naturally occurring wax, or a build-up of sprays and dust, could be blocking the leaves from efficiently evaporating. Maybe hosing them down good with a light soap (quickly-you don't want to soak them if they are alteady too wet.) Good luck, and remember that new squash plants grow very quickly (from seed) and may be your easiest way out of this problem.
-Terry

This post was edited by terry_neoh on Thu, May 1, 14 at 6:12

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 5:55AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Flat, markedly elongated, and split stems are caused by a severe insufficiency of the needed light if grown indoors or sun if grown outdoors. You don't indicate where growing - in or out. Their color is also an indication of very poor light/sun exposure.

Ambient air temps can contribute to the problem but since you give no indication of your location or zone I can't comment on how that could have contributed in this case.

These seedlings are not salvageable.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 9:43AM
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terry_neoh(5b)

Keep outer skins dried, and mulch and dirt pulled back from the top half of the bulb as it progresses. This is some extra work that the commercial growers probably do not do.

The drying skins at the top can accumulate rain, whick, if not quickly dried, can start to rot. This can not only ruin that cover layer to the onion but can tranfer some of the fungus to healthy, growing leaves.
-Terry

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 6:29AM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I don't understand the keeping dirt off the upper bulb. I like to see a bit added to keep them from greening ....got along good my way.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2014 at 8:54AM
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