23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

NoNoNo! #1 gophers will chew right through CW if not squeeze through! #2Voles will just saunter through like it was a hallway to the vege palace! #3 They will rot out in a couple of years. Do you want to dig out ALL of that dirt just to do it all again?
Do it right the first time and use hardware (or gopher) cloth! It is worth the extra $! Our origional 4 beds have not failed in13 and 10 years. We had a shovel go through accidentally in one bed, but were able to dig down and repair the tear in the wire.
All those tiny rhodents can squeeze themselves down to about the size of a fat thumb.Sorry I was so adament! LOL I hate gophers! LOL Nancy

    Bookmark   March 24, 2014 at 9:15PM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

NoNoNo! #1 gophers will chew right through CW if not squeeze through! #2Voles will just saunter through like it was a hallway to the vege palace! #3 They will rot out in a couple of years. Do you want to dig out ALL of that dirt just to do it all again?
Do it right the first time and use hardware (or gopher) cloth! It is worth the extra $! Our origional 4 beds have not failed in13 and 10 years. We had a shovel go through accidentally in one bed, but were able to dig down and repair the tear in the wire.
All those tiny rhodents can squeeze themselves down to about the size of a fat thumb.Sorry I was so adament! LOL I hate gophers! LOL Nancy

    Bookmark   March 24, 2014 at 9:16PM
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Natures_Nature(5 OH)

"they like stop developing, and sit there for 2-3 weeks with almost no visible development, some of them got a very small true leave, that doesn't grow. After that they start to get dry from the border of the leaves and finally just dry out."

I had an aphid infestation last year and it did just that. The sprouts with cotyledon leaves just sat there for weeks, kind of deformed looking, with very small leaves. I finally examined the little month old sprouts, they had dozens of small aphids tapping the stem for nutrients. If not, Perhaps damp off?

    Bookmark   March 24, 2014 at 5:50PM
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galinas(5B)

Thank you both! I think the word "suffocated" will be exact word! I remembered what i did different last two years. I red in Vegetable garden guide online that cabbages like very firm soil. So I thought it is applicable to the seedlings as well. So I compacted the mix in the pot a little, before I planted the seeds. And I didn't do this first year, as I didn't know the fact the cabbage likes firm soil). So sometimes, no knowledge is better, when you follow the common sense. Fortunately, the spring is so slow this year, I can plant them again and will not be too late to plant them out when they ready.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2014 at 7:02PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

In a couple hours since I've posted, both of the smaller plants are back to normal. Like nothing happened.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Very interesting. This outright rules out any root problem. IMO any root problem is no/cannot be reversible.

Wilting like what I see in the picture, can be due to TWO things:

___ extreme thirst'
___ extreme heat/sun

In both above cases, plant will perk up after watering and after the source of heat/sun has gone.

You say you water them every other day. But is it possible that you forgot watering for much longer than that ? OR maybe it is not just enough.

It happens to me all the time. Just a week ago some of my tomato seedlings were wilting to the point of dying: THE CAUSE: thirst. After watering, they perked up but the lower leaves did not recover.

Sure, soil less medium is better but I have grown all kinds of things in pots filled with garden soil.
The problem with compaction and root bounding is that the pot cannot hold enough moisture for a long time (maybe not for one day), in the dog days of summer. Probably you have summer like weather in Florida right now ?

THE BOTTOM LINE SOLUTION (imo)
re pot them with soil less potting mix into a bigger pot.

Hope all this is worth couple of pennies. But I am not asking for anything. hehe

    Bookmark   March 23, 2014 at 10:39PM
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pnbrown

No, they don't usually (right away) but it can happen. If some contaminated sand got mixed into the container mix, for example, or if the containers sit without any added fertility for a long while they will eventually invade.

Fertility and crop rotation is what stops predatory nematodes, and both of those are hard to maintain long-term in containers.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2014 at 7:24AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Sorry but the fact that your plants are having issues does not mean the soil in your bed is contaminated. First because the most common tomato diseases are airborne and second because the loose description of the symptoms you describe can have many different causes besides disease - nutrient deficiency being the most common.

Granted there are seed-borne diseases and a couple of soil borne diseases too but they are more rare and tend to be very regional.

So before you can determine if there is anything wrong with the soil itself you fist have to discover exactly what the problems with the plants are.

Photos posted on the Tomato forum here would help but a local consult with your county extension service or at least one of their Master Gardeners would be more beneficial.

Dave

    Bookmark   March 23, 2014 at 4:33PM
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GinsengCan I grow ginseng in a shade house?
Posted by zzackey(8b GA) February 16, 2014
36 Comments
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Deeby

My grandmother said that the plant had five leaves that were spread apart, like spreading apart your fingers and thumb.
My impression is that she meant a plant that was low to the ground.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 3:09PM
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bggrows(6a/6b)

My Dad gathered ginseng after he retired and he was able to walk the woods in south central Kentucky in what we called the knob land. I went with him once. He knew where all the patches were and the land owners didn't seem to mind. He would only go when he knew the berries were ripe.The red stands out in the woods on the 6" to 10" plants and he could spot them from a distance.
He would only dig large roots when the plant had more than 4 leaves and never a young plant.. He would also scatter the seed. A mature root looks like a human figure, head, arms and legs. Thus, five fingers. He said it took many years for a 5 prong root to grow.
He sold his but only made a few dollars as the roots have to be very dry and takes a lot to make a few ounces. He just enjoyed being in the woods.
He did try to grow some from root and seed but they never did anything. The best I remember, they grew on the north hillside in dense shade.

    Bookmark   March 23, 2014 at 3:58PM
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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

Unless you're growing from real seeds instead of tubers, your potatoes will "grow true." Potatoes grown from tubers are actually clones of the mother plant. So, they will have exactly the same set of genes as the plant they came from.

    Bookmark   March 23, 2014 at 11:29AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

You won't be growing "seed" or saving seed. You'll be planting potatoes and growing more potatoes from those you planted.

Your primary problem will be figuring out how to save/store/prevent rotting so the potatoes you harvest this year can be planted the following year.

Fingerlings are small to begin with so they decline more rapidly than big potatoes do. And with their sugar to carbohydrate ratio they don't store for long.

Dave

    Bookmark   March 23, 2014 at 12:35PM
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cdlongjr

I did you demin water in the testing
& used this kit:Mosser Lee Soil Master Soil Testing Kit. I'll check w/ the county and see what I need to do to get the soil tested.
Thanks

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 7:43AM
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alan haigh

Most vegetables are pretty adaptable to a range of pH, certainly anything between 6 and 7 will be fine for most of what you grow but it is nice to have the confidence of knowledge and your cooperative extension will do a quick pH test for a modest fee. If your results are similar you can be more confidant of your own measurements in the future.

I use a Cornell kit that allows me to come within a decimal point or two of what the best lab will verify which is all that is needed for practical purposes.

Your cooperative extension will also provide at least a source for testing your soil at a lab that will write a "prescription" for home vegetable production which will clarify the balance of nutrients you should be adding.

I believe it is impossible that your soil does not have measurable amounts of N, P and K or no plants could survive in it. I've had literally hundreds of different soils tested and while any of these nutrients may be at low levels, they are always there.

    Bookmark   March 23, 2014 at 7:02AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Your plants are what are called "leggy". Search that term and find all sorts of info. The stems are too weak to support the heads and it is caused by far too little light as others have said.

Many of the other plants in your photo are also far too leggy. They just aren't as obvious. Window light is never enough. Even greenhouses use supplemental lighting this time of year.

Check out the Growing from Seed forum here for all kinds of info.

Dave

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 2:56PM
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andrew_rva

Great information, thanks everyone!

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 5:05PM
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ltilton

These days, the calendar method is becoming less reliable. We're running 10 degrees below normal this month.

I'm particularly concerned with brassicas, the possibility of failure due to unseasonably cold conditions at setting out.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 10:23AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

particularly concerned with brassicas, the possibility of failure due to unseasonably cold conditions at setting out.

They are a difficult balancing act - out soon enough to beat the heat but not so soon the cold gets them. But the threat to them is more air temps than soil temps. So the best solution is out early as possible but under row cover for protection.

Dave

PS: I agree - the calendar is the least reliable timing method.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 3:03PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Duplicate bump.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 2:56PM
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lucillle

What is normal size depends on the type of peppers you grew.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 11:23AM
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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Got a pic of the plant? Those "appear" to be a variety of a Thai variety or similar. Which, if so, would be about the correct size. Also look similar to a Serrano.. which, if so, would appear to be undersized a tad.

Kevin

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 12:37PM
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Army wormis this an army worm by any chance?
Posted by DragonFlyTx March 20, 2014
2 Comments
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planatus(6)

My army worms are mostly black, but species vary. Please say if you found this creature on a certain plant, what it was doing, and if there are more of them. There is never only one armyworm.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 8:00AM
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socks

Where did you find it?

Soldier fly larva?

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 10:48AM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

bart, If the plants are of some size, then they need to be broken in more slowly. With my setup they can be out all day from the get-go when the weather is suitable....you don't shade newly germinated seedlings that are garden sown!

This post was edited by wayne_5 on Thu, Mar 20, 14 at 21:42

    Bookmark   March 20, 2014 at 9:41PM
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booberry85(5)

I'm a working stiff too. When I start hardening off my plants, I set them outside on partly sunny or cloudy days and have them right next to the house. That way they only get a few hours of direct sunlight. I bring them in at night for the first week or two. I gradually (every couple of days) move them further away from the house so they get more sunlight.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 8:53AM
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glib(5.5)

In a commercial operation, yes. You be content with 1:2, or 20 lbs, over two or three flushes depending on strain. Anything above that and you can brag.

    Bookmark   March 20, 2014 at 11:28AM
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bobvisaa

Thanks again glib.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2014 at 1:54AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Just cut them apart with a sharp knife or scissors and plant them separately. Normally they recover fine from root ball division.

Dave

    Bookmark   March 20, 2014 at 6:28PM
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