23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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albert_135(Sunset 2 or 3)

delete - I was attempting humor. Sorry.

This post was edited by albert_135 on Sat, Mar 15, 14 at 15:53

    Bookmark   March 15, 2014 at 3:06PM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

Don't blame the gnomes! It was the gremlins!
Take advantage of your bum foot and hire someone to prep your garden this year! Then all you have to do is water and pick! Nancy

    Bookmark   March 16, 2014 at 9:25PM
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veggievicki(7b)

Here the tradition is first full moon in Feb. But you need decent soil temps and it can't be so cold and wet that your seed taters rot before they sprout. It's cold and wet here and it's March!

    Bookmark   March 16, 2014 at 4:36PM
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farmerdill

tradition in Virginia is St Patricks Day. Pittsburg is cooler so probably the first of April

    Bookmark   March 16, 2014 at 7:42PM
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zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin

Don't know whether this thread has been closed or not... but since this thread no longer shows up on search results, I am bumping it to keep it from dropping off the radar. Please use the new thread, Unusual/Odd Veggies, for posts on this topic.

    Bookmark   November 24, 2012 at 4:24AM
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zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin

Almost lost this thread, it no longer came up in search results... but I had saved it in my clippings. Bumping to keep it in the active archive. Again, please do not post on this thread, but use the current "What's Your Favorite Unusual Vegetable" thread.

    Bookmark   March 16, 2014 at 5:59PM
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2ajsmama

Kale is starting, spinach just a few since seeding on Tuesday (too warm at 67 degrees? About to move everything to basement). Lettuce germinated in 3 days and it's crowded - I tried for 5 seeds per cell since seed was packed for 2012, I bought it end of year to use 2013. But some cells have a dozen seedlings in them!

When to thin (1-2" like outside)? Can these be separated and when? Starting peppers today.

    Bookmark   March 15, 2014 at 3:01PM
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veggievicki(7b)

Call me crazy but I thin that little tiny stuff with a cuticle scissor. Just snip the ones you don't want. I figure the sooner I get the extras out the better the others will do.

    Bookmark   March 16, 2014 at 4:46PM
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srj19(4)

Fungus gnats could have been my issue in the past with the plant I brought to the office that had been outdoors. I've not really had issues with seed starting and bugs before now but since I was starting seeds in the office I didn't want this to be the first time.

So I have a related question, when you guys start peppers or tomatoes at how many days or at what stage of their growth do you move them to pots? I think in the past I've kept them in the tray weeks too long.

    Bookmark   March 16, 2014 at 3:17AM
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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

I don't do my peppers/toms in trays... I use the paper towel/baggy method(peppers) or straight into containers from the get go. But, generally you would want to do it right away so you can get them under lights right away.

Kevin

    Bookmark   March 16, 2014 at 4:02PM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

Last year I tried spigariello for the third time (it's never done very well for me), and sowed it in mid April right next to Gailan. The Gailan was so much more vigorous and the taste was so similar that I'll never bother with spigariello again.

    Bookmark   March 16, 2014 at 6:38AM
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glib(5.5)

I would plant tillage radishes right away, and forget about them until 2015. The twins will be demanding.

    Bookmark   February 22, 2014 at 4:52PM
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basilno(4)

Thanks for all the suggestions. I decided to go with red clover, ? with oats as a nurse crop? (that would suppress weeds better?)

How soon can we plant it? (there's currently 2 feet of snow on the ground, so it won't be very soon but can it be planted once the ground thaws in April? or does it need to wait until after the last frost (traditionally Memorial Day around here)?

Thanks!

    Bookmark   March 15, 2014 at 9:23PM
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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

What Dave said. Another thing though. Whether you use water, insecticidal soap, neem oil, or something else; you have to stay diligent. Instead of the recommended weekly treatments on the bottle for heavy infestations, try every 3-4 days for the 1st couple weeks until you can bring down the populations. Aphids reproduce at very rapid rates, so really attacking them is key, IMO. You could also release some ladybugs or lacewing larvae to clean up the guys. If you do, no pesticides.

Good luck

Kevin

    Bookmark   March 14, 2014 at 10:48PM
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glib(5.5)

Ladybugs are really a good control if you have them. They go to bed around Oct. 15 here, and all of a sudden pristine brassica plants get populated with these.

    Bookmark   March 15, 2014 at 7:04PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

According to my Duke's Handbook of Medicinal Plants of Latin America it is classed as a medicinal plant only, not for regular consumption. It has potential cardiac, hypoglycemic, and respiratory side-effects that could be potentially hazardous if not used correctly. It is usually used as a tea or a decoction.

Dave

    Bookmark   March 15, 2014 at 4:43PM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

The leaves that are yellowing are the cotyledons, it is normal for them to die and fall off once the plant has true leaves.

    Bookmark   March 15, 2014 at 4:11PM
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zzackey(8b GA)

You can put down cardboard between the rows with a mulch on top of the cardboard. Please don't spray the garden with a weed killer. We use old grass clippings as mulch. What few weeds we get pull very easily.

    Bookmark   March 15, 2014 at 2:38PM
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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Most tarps let through way too much light Cardboard seems to be the unanimous choice. You might also try black plastic or even clear. With clear you want to make sure the area is thoroughly watered, tuck it in real well, and do it in the middle of summer --- you lose a season, but it solarizes the soil and kills anything a foot down. Don't worry about the worms and microorganisms.. they'll come back.

Also, to keep weeds down to a minimum, after planting your garden, mulch heavily. The few weeds that may come will be poorly anchored and can be pulled with a slight tug.

kevin

    Bookmark   March 15, 2014 at 3:39PM
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wertach zone 7-B SC

I don't know, but if you try posting this on the harvest forum. You will probably get the answer there!

    Bookmark   March 15, 2014 at 11:58AM
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defrost49

jean001, thanks for posting about day length sensitivity. I read it someplace but don't remember where (pre-internet days I think) but since I started planting spinach as soon as possible in the spring here in NH, I've gotten a good crop. I direct seed. I think the easiest way to get early spinach would be to direct seed in the fall and let it overwinter. That worked perfect for me one year even when we had little snow cover. This is our second winter with a high tunnel and last year we had too much spinach in winter so I didn't direct seed in the outside garden.

    Bookmark   March 15, 2014 at 7:56AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I direct seeded some about two weeks ago and they are emerging. The weather here at the PNW, has been in the range of low 30s to low/mid 50s., with lots of rain, clouds. This tells me that you should germinate Spinach in cool temperatures. You don't need a heating mat, You don't need too much warmth. Probably an unheated garage would've been just fine.

    Bookmark   March 15, 2014 at 8:46AM
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pnbrown

In fact all legumes benefit from support, it's just that the bush varieties don't sprawl as much as a pole will. Pods that stay in contact with the ground suffer damage very quickly, regardless.

    Bookmark   March 12, 2014 at 7:51AM
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lexusnexus(7a)

It's been awhile since I've grown green beans but varieties of bush beans I know of will grow all of their beans in a short period of time. For these you will need to grow more than one row/group to get a continuous crop. Whereas pole beans will not produce as many beans at a time but have a longer production time. My recollection is that bush beans were better for me. But, as I said long production bush beans were not available at the time.

Dan

    Bookmark   March 14, 2014 at 6:44PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Nice. A fair amount of work if one has lots of plants to label but and using thicker aluminum would not only be free, recycle aluminum cans, but the tags last for multiple seasons and no wire needed.

Dave

PS: You could have just added this to your previous post on this. That keeps all the info together for all to see. No need for a new thread.

Here is a link that might be useful: Your previous post on this issue

    Bookmark   March 11, 2014 at 2:16PM
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northshore3

Dave thank you the tip on adding it to my similar post I'm rather new at posting and sharing ideas using the computer. I started making tags for my orchard [grafting] and morphed it into the garden.I see your point on construction time, it would indeed be faster and easier to use an different method , mini blinds and industrial sharpies [thank you xxxxx] for that information. I never knew industrial sharpies existed and combined with minnie blinds --fast and permanent and nonreflective -- my new method,as soon as my alum. markers get lost.
However- have already tried alum cans and dicarded them as they do not emboss as deeply and therefor are harder to read as" pie pan aluminum" and it is somewhat more difficult to cut out of the can as opposed to a flat pan.

    Bookmark   March 14, 2014 at 11:25AM
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