23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I can't see the raster (butt) at all, certainly not well enough to count the hairs on it.
See these diagrams - How to ID grubs of Japanese beetles & more by pattern on raster
Agree. Mint is far too aggressive for growing in anything but its own pot - unless you want it to take over the entire 2x8 foot bed. If not a pot then plant it somewhere that you won't mind when it takes it all over.
Too much for sage+thyme+rosemary? Not at all. A bed that size could easily hold many more herb plants unless you are wanting to plant tons of each.
The other issue here is that mint likes much different conditions than the other three. It like more moist, while the other three require very well drained soil. Give it it's own pot--it just doesn't play well with others.
Now, the remaining bed would be ok for the other three. You can try a hardy Arp rosemary that might survive your winter, otherwise you may have to consider it an annual. (Suzy we can just be jealous of the size your rosey can get when it is a perennial). The other two can get large, but 2' square is reasonable for them if you deliberately keep them spreading too far in a couple years when they get that size. Could even keep the thyme smaller and also look at adding some chives, winter savory, tarragon, or sorrel for perennial herbs.
It looks like sun and/or wind damage to me. Depending on where you purchased them, you never know if the plants have been properly hardened off. Action however should be the same as Giving suggested. Remove and discard damaged leaves. If you get more damage on a sunny day, erect some type of shade or move pots to protect them from the hottest time of day until plants adapt.
Thank you, after reading giving comment I quickly ran outside and cut off the damaged leaves. I fear it is sunburned as well. I bought them from Home Depot (Bonnie plants).i will move them tomorrow to a part shade area during the hot times. It shouldn't be very hot tomorrow with temps going up to only 74. I checked my tomato plants as well and they are not as burned but I can see that they were a little scorched as well.
in my prior post I should have said that they died before they reached the size in your photo. They didn't get any bigger than they are in my photo before slowly dying. A local greenhouse owner thinks it is damping off (based on my description of problem) but appears to be a leaf problem rather than stem problem to me. Has anyone seen damping off look like this?
<it there any point in trying to give it a boost and get some spears this season>
Sure. Do you normally not feed it in the spring before emergence? I strongly recommend it. A good 2-3" layer of manured compost well-watered in works great. But I wouldn't use Triple Phosphate. Way too heavy Phos IMO unless you know for a fact that your soil is extremely low in P, which would be unusual.
If you don't want to or can't use the manured compost then go with something more balanced and with some N. The N is far more likely to be low in early spring's cool soil than P is. I'd use a heavy feeding of fish emulsion, worm tea, or some strong compost tea rather than the Super Phos.
Do you have any indications of the organic matter content of the soil or of how good the soil micro-herd is?
Dave
I have a soil test, but it is a few years old and had no glaring deficiencies. I did a side dressing of the Garden Tone as well as compost manure (fall and spring on the compost), but I was concerned that maybe it was not enough and there must be some deficiency to still be getting thin spears this many years in.
I've got fish emulsion as well, so I will just start pampering the bed and see if that helps, thanks!
Hard to say, but I can offer some tips. (My answer would be to certainly build some of the beds now to spread out the labor and have an earlier start.)
I use a sunlight calculator (mine was made by Luster Leaf)--it really helps to grapple with areas that get shade from tree/house shadows, etc.
Many people will swear that smothering them is enough, but with really vigorous weeds, I dig them and put down cardboard before filling raised beds. It's just too risky to me to do all that work and have weeds in a raised bed!
good luck, and congrats--it's so great to be able to garden your own land!
Not in my opinion. It is about to flower so if you post again then we can help further. Or you could repost on the Name That Plant Forum where someone might recognise it. (Not saying that people on here won't but NTP is dedicated to identification.) Name That Plant
Im in zone 7b central Arkansas.
I only want to grow them for fun.
I definitely will not be digging a big hole in my backyard for it.
I already planted them yesterday, so we will see how they do.
Also, many plants dont really have a problem growing in clay soil
"The plant itself looks ok but every week the plant had 2 or 3 leafs that turn yellow and then brown."
I'd like to have such stable cukes. As long as they're growing much more than dying, there should be no reason to fret.
I let my Kale grow all summer long, and grow it does. By the time October rolls around, my kale stalks are usually 3 feet tall from clipping the bottom leaves all season. I grow, blue curled scotch, redbor and lacinto varieties. They taste great all summer long. I'm in zone 6b in se Pa, so we don't have much difference in weather. As for the spinach, it is still fine. Lows are still in the 50's at night. My spinach is usually spent and out of the garden around June 1st, about the same time the first pea harvest comes in.
No need to scrap them. Just plant your beans and things around them - plenty of bare space there - and let them keep growing. Interplanting is the most efficient use of space. Still plenty of harvest time available for them before the beans get big enough to start producing. My lettuces and spinach are still going strong and will for another 3 weeks or so and my soil is still too cool for planting beans.
Dave
Yea I did as well as I could with my schedule. They had been outside in small pots for about two weeks in a screened in porch so the sun was probably brighter outside of it. But yea they aren't getting worse for sure and I'm spraying fungicide every two weeks this year. Cause last year I didn't and all five of my tomatoes got infected but luckily I cut all the affected areas and sprayed fungicide on the rest and everything was fine so I'm trying to prevent any illness early in the season mainly because my second round of tomatoes are already putting out their first true sets of leaves so I'm trying to keep that spot disease free :)
Yeah, you don't "earth up" sweet potatoes. You just stick them in the ground like would root some ivy or other type of vine. I use 6 inch slips and root the bottom half. It's funny because this is the third sweet potato question on here within the last week or so. Tis the season. You should be able to get around 1 lb of harvest per gallon. So basically a 25 gallon container will give you around 25 lbs of sweet potato goodness. I am sure there is a maximum depth you can achieve in growth. A garbage can may be too deep. You could be better off using a half barrel.
Check the soil temperature. If you have raised bed it could be just fine for planting - like 50F. If so - you can plant it, but keep handy buckets, tabs, big jars - anything you can cover them with for the night, if temperature predicted to drop. If you have lager glass jars, you can even cover them during the day, if day is not warm enough. Just remember, if you keep them under glass for few days, when you take the cover off, shade them for day or two, otherwise UV will burn them. Or you can take them in and out until it is warmer.
What I meant when I said maybe it was a "northern thing" was, well, maybe soil temps are low enough there that seeds wouldn't sprout? That's never an issue down here. But then transplanting plants into that same soil wouldn't be that smart either. I am equally struck by the fact that someone would be selling such plants well before they belong in the ground. Yes, they'll probably survive, but in terms of level-of-effort, buying a pack of seeds would be a lot easier, and the cost per plant would be far lower.
If you've been unsuccessful with planting bean seeds, you may need to take a hard look at what you've been doing. You plant them and "nothing happens"? Aack. Perhaps you planted them far too early? If conditions are decent, and soil as well, bean seedlings are almost indestructable and, as Dave says, you could practically grow them on concrete. Beans carry enough nutrient in their large seeds to make big, strong seedlings.