23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
If your plants aren't showing any signs of being root-bound, I wouldn't bother to repot them (yet.)
The "bolting" on broccolli is the part you eat, but it will flower quicker and taste stronger when thing start to heat up. If you have an early variety, they might do okay.
Cauliflower depends on the variety as well, but you are probably too late to get mild tasting heads. And later varieties (e.g. self blanching) will probably just wait until fall to head.
Cabbage and its flavor probably won't be affected much. But the leaves will be tougher. Later varieties (e.g. flat dutch) may also wait until fall to head.
Hope this helps with your decisions. -Terry
The potato spud itself sends up several eyes, and when the eye reaches soil emergence, the eye starts producing leaves, and the plant starts growing roots. Most potatoes will grow multiple eyes. Some gardeners like to have 2 or 3 good, growing eyes on each peiece of seed potato that they cut up. Some gardeners prefer to halve them, and smaller scale gardeners will plant the whole potato.
On the roots, under the newly growing potato plant is where the potatoes grow (literally next to the parent piece of seed potato), and if you hill around the plant, and cover up most of the growth (leaving half the plant still uncovered) the newly covered stem will send out new roots, and produce potatoes in the soil that you hilled.
You can also take a potato plant and add a tire around the base, then fill with dirt, and grow potatoes upwards as high as you stack tires filled with dirt. The problem is, the higher you go, the smaller all of the potatoes get because of the length of the growing season. But it's still interesting that a potato plant can grow 5 feet tall or more and produce spuds all along the 5 feet of buried growth.
My great grandfather was SUCH a tightwad, he would pick the eyes out of the potatoes before supper in the spring, and plant just the picked out eyes. Most of them didn't grow, but every time he got a potato plant to grow from just the eye he felt like he was being the thriftiest guy alive. Old skinflint.
Rodney: By that that reasoning, a lowland virgin forest would have infinite leaves on the forest floor. That doesn't happen. If anything, it turns into a muck pit (which, when drained, makes the best garden soil.
"Sphagnum and the peat formed from it do not decay readily because of the phenolic compounds embedded in the moss's cell walls."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sphagnum
Here is a link that might be useful: Celeryville, OH
Sorry for the double post. Can't see how to delete it completely.
Here is a link that might be useful: Celeryville, OH
This post was edited by terry_neoh on Wed, Apr 23, 14 at 21:40
They are treated in the fields with various treatments - see link below. Supplemental treatment may be applied in storeage. But the inhibitors don't prevent sprouting, just slow it so yes, stored potatoes will usually sprout - eventually.
There are many discussions here about using store-bought poatoes as seed potatoes in the home garden. The forum search will pull them up for you. It is a fairly common practice.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Potato sprout inhibitors
I put in a raised bed (12") over Bermuda without digging it up or killing it and that stuff has no problem coming up in the raised bed, especially along the inside edges. Next time I'll certainly kill it first and use the cardboard method described above.
Good luck.
I put in a raised bed (12") over Bermuda without digging it up or killing it and that stuff has no problem coming up in the raised bed, especially along the inside edges. Next time I'll certainly kill it first and use the cardboard method described above.
Good luck.
I plant mine about a foot deep but leave the trench open and only cover the crowns with a few inches of soil. Then I fill it in gradually keeping the growing tips always above the soil level so the young plants can keep photosynthesizing. The following year they'll come up right through that soil on their own.
-Mark
The requirements are sounding like they are driving you to get one of those store-bought containers. At least the fencing or chicken wire would be a reasonable building material for some, but that seems to be disallowed.
Buy a trash can for about $20 or less. The 32-gallons are around this price range but are much smaller than 64 cf.
But for a really free option, use the free pallets. Many or most are already 4x4 so you don't even have to worry much about measurements. Make a lid of some sort to fill in that first requirement but I think such a large bin isn't really good to have a lid.
Why not go over to the Composting forum here as they have FAQS about all the various types of containers you can buy and build already posted. Plus unlimited discussions about the advantages and disadvantages of many of them.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Soil & Composting Forum
Non of our local organic nurseries (We have MANY in Sonoma Co!) have frost sensitive veges out more than a week or so before our last day of frost date (April 15th) and even then they usually have a sign that there is still a possibility of frost and to protect your plants and look at the weather reports for a few weeks.
The big box stores had them out mid March! Buy em, plant em, come back and buy em again when they freeze! Nancy
I concur with the others about not using the big box stores as a timing for when to plant stuff. Lowe's already has tomato and pepper seedlings for sale here. In Michigan. We're still at least 3-4 weeks away from the time tomatoes can be planted (even then we have to look out for an occasional frost/low temp). And it's more like 6-8 weeks for peppers. It's still getting down to the 30's at night and it's only 40*F here as I'm writing this.
As for the original question about the Farmer's almanac, I never used it.
Rodney
This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Wed, Apr 23, 14 at 11:03
traps baited with peanut butter work pretty good for mice. for voles, find their tunnel entrance holes. set mouse traps at the entrance but tie them down with wire or drill a hole in them & anchor them with a large nail. with the squirrels I live trap them or get out my air rifle. last year I carefully harvested the buckeyes from my bottle brush buckeyes . every one that I planted the squirrels got. I just dispatched one ten minutes ago digging up bulbs.
I just germinated a tray of various beans tonight. I set all if the beans out to soak this morning, so they soaked for about 12 hours. After I put them in the tray I set the tray on a seed heating mat. This is my first time trying this method. I'll be sure to let you know how it goes.
Slugs eat the ferric (iron) phosphate (Sluggo, Correys, etc.) and die from within the "stomach." It doesn't kill them by them crawling over it. It has low to no toxicity. It's not a "poison," unlike the other kinds of slug killers.
The following website has answers to all your questions about it. I find these pellets to be the easiest and safest way to deal with slugs.
Here is a link that might be useful: iron phosphate info
I saw a BCS when I bought the Honda, but it was just tiller (I think you could order implements for it.
They were about the same price, but the Honda has 2 forwward speeds (which about doubles the price.) I got it half off, though, since I lived in TN at the time and after 4 years of drought, the dealer has been sitting on it a long time.
I've kept this tiller so long because I don't want to put out the bucks for a new 2 speeder, and I won't have it any other way.
No, it's not pineapple weed, nor is it parsley. There are a stack of wild members of the carrot family and I think this is one. It's not one I know from here.
Leave it if it's a wild carrot. One of the beneficial insect attracting plants.
Kevin