23,821 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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galinas(5B)

This is what I do in this case: Let's say I have a bed 5'X10''.
I plant my rows in parallel with 5' side. When I need to reach the middle of the bed, I take a 2''X2''X6' wood stud and lay it between rows on top of my 10' boards(like a bridge from one long side to anther). It is not enough to walk on it, but it is enough to put one foot there and get some support when leaning to the center of the bed. But it is only working with with short crop - like cabbages, carrots, beets and so on. With peppers and tomatoes I always make narrow beds to be able to reach the middle from pathway.

    Bookmark     April 8, 2014 at 12:00PM
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prairiemoon2 z6 MA

Thanks for sharing what works for you. That's another good idea. Lots of good ideas from everyone. Very resourceful.

    Bookmark     April 8, 2014 at 4:12PM
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terrybug

There's about 4 plants in the pot.
terry

    Bookmark     April 6, 2014 at 5:01PM
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wertach zone 7-B SC

I have never grown fennel, but it looks ready to me!

    Bookmark     April 8, 2014 at 1:18PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Drilling holes in a pipe does not mean it is a *drip* system.
Thus, 30-minute run time may be more than enough water rather than too little.

Good point Jean but the cuts in most drip tapes are much larger than the ones the OP described so from his description I figured the odds were more likely drip than spray.

At least with drip tape you can calculate gph. With this set-up, who knows.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 4, 2014 at 9:57AM
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gmanar(7 CLT-NC/ HZ 7)

Hi All,

Thanks so much for the valuable input.
Finally i decided to scrap the idea. I am going to pull out the pipes this weekend. ( i will use the pipes to for the mini green house i am planning to build this winter :) )
I think for 2 beds of 4X15 - it is easier to hand water them, also i have some cinder blocks along one edge with garlic - and blueberry bushes there ... so even if i automate just the beds i still have to hand water the rest. I thought long and hard about automating those as well - but i think the complications and the maintenance of the automated system just is not fit for the size of the garden i have.

I learnt a lot - and again thanks for all the help.

Regards
Gmanar.

    Bookmark     April 8, 2014 at 9:12AM
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canokie

Thank you both for the responses.

McKenzie, that was a good suggestion about the metal straps instead of the 4"x4" corner posts. I'll look into that.

My climate is pretty hot and dry in the summer so some shade is actually welcome. And yes the north fence gets a lot of sun, even in winter. I'm planning to adapt the beds with hog panels to create some type of cold frame so I can grow greens along the north fence in the cooler months. For the west fence, which gets the afternoon shade, I was thinking blueberries.... I still haven't given up on growing blueberries lol! My current garden is in the northwest corner so it gets some shade and in comparing notes with my neighbor, who has his garden on the opposite side of the yard, we notice that he grows the best melons and peppers and I have better luck with tomatoes, greens, etc. I was hoping by having beds all along the perimeter that it would give me options so I could try to plant different crop where they would do best (though I also want to rotate crops so that gets a bit more challenging!) I am originally from Canada where pretty much everything I learned about gardening had to go out the window and I had to learn to garden all over again in this new climate.

Seysonn, thank you for the good advice you provided also. Sounds like you have about the amount of gardening space I'm hoping to end up with, 200 square feet or so. (The perimeter beds would give me about 170 square feet, and adding the two 4'x8' beds would provide about another 100 square feet.) I would love to see a picture of your garden if you don't mind sharing.

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 11:39PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

You are welcome, canokie.

I am still making few more beds.
I will take a few pictures tomorrow. We have a relatively small backyard. So I have narrow walkways just wide enough to walk ( No lawnmower etc.)

    Bookmark     April 8, 2014 at 12:23AM
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prairiemoon2 z6 MA

Thanks tishtoshmn, I'd rather make our own then buy a kit, too.

Seysonn, I haven't figured out what I'm doing for supports or cold frame covers. It's not that I know something that pvc in the bed is going to be detrimental, I don't. I just have lived long enough to have thought a lot of things were safe, until 20 years later, when they figure out it's not. So instead of figuring out what is safe and what isn't,, I just try to stick with natural materials as much as possible.

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 9:56AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

PM,
You can make them from wood too. PVC is just so simple and economical.

For cold frame top, I have used, plexi glass, clear plastic and some corrugated clear plastic ( called tuff(something)) You can also use common window glass. Then it can break easily.. Plexi glass is the best option but it costs more.

BTW: I make the top of my cold frame flat (not bowed). I think both cold frame and the hoop covers are dandy. Once you have them you cannot live without them. They are the next best thing to greenhouse.

    Bookmark     April 8, 2014 at 12:10AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Spread it out thinly on a plastic tarp in the sun for a few days and they will leave. If unseasonable cold there right now spread another piece of clear plastic on top of it to generate more heat.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 5:15PM
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zzackey(8b GA)

Thank you!! It is 78 now. 70 tomorrow because of rain. I'll do that once the rain stops!

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 6:10PM
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wissle_in_PA

Do I need to wait till my seedlings have their second set of leaves before I set outside?

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 5:27PM
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wissle_in_PA

Do I need to wait till my seedlings have their second set of leaves before I set outside?

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 5:33PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I have always found legumes/beans to be very intolerant of N fertilizers of any kind. It is commonly recommended to avoid using N around them, even going so far as to plant them separately from nitrogen using crops to increase production. So that may be what "burned" his beans if indeed it was the cause of the problem. There are many other possible causes.

This of course assuming it was properly composted manure in the first place - 60-90 days before planting and 90-120 days prior to harvesting when used around consumables. If it wasn't well composted prior to application. then yes, it could easily cause problems for beans and anything else.

So if you spread it last fall and it has been composting for at least 60 days since then it should pose no problems for you now. But I still wouldn't use it around legumes.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 5:25PM
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hudson___wy(3)

I like the asparagus plants in a separate bed as well. The roots are not disturbed and it is easier to care for it's needs - IMO. This photo was taken when the plants were only one year old - we did not harvest the asparagus that year.

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 1:12AM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I have mine along edges of gardens.

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 12:34PM
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ltilton

If you see the little coiling tendrils, they are what the vine uses to support itself on a trellis. Cucumbers are straighter on a trellis, and not prone to problems from contact with the ground.

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 9:37AM
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horse727

Thanks Guys

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 10:33AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Sounds like you have a pretty good grouping along the hoses. Now if you can only figure out how to keep the water where you put it. :)

A rough comparison of volumes needed for various vegetables below but keep in mind the type and tilth of your soil will affect frequency and amounts will increase during periods of hot weather. Also most crops will require some extra water at critical development periods such as when tomatoes when setting fruit, broccoli and lettuce when developing heads, filling pods for peas, etc.

So check out the link below (scroll down) for some classification of heavy water needers like beans and onions and the lesser water needers like herbs. It also cover the ones that need consistently moist soil vs. those that prefer to dry out between watering.

Dave

PS: Farmer's Almanac has a basic chart too you might want to check out.

Here is a link that might be useful: Critical Water Periods for Vegetables

    Bookmark     April 4, 2014 at 9:46PM
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bart1(6/7 Northern VA)

Thanks Dave!

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 9:49AM
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CaraRose

Florence fennel?

Did it bolt last year? I've never heard of florence fennel not bolting at the end of a season.

    Bookmark     April 6, 2014 at 10:28PM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

duplicate thread with a 2nd image =
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0416590818918.html?1

Here is a link that might be useful: duplicate thread

    Bookmark     April 7, 2014 at 12:38AM
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

This question has been asked many times, so you are far from being alone. Just be cautious if those plants resprout as they are so likely to do. Then you can be affected the old fashioned way....by physical contact.

    Bookmark     April 6, 2014 at 11:04PM
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tsmaggie

rhizo_1 I am always on the lookout for these lovely plants. Have had bad experience with them before. When I get the chance, I plan to pull up as many roots as I can. Thanks for the advice.

    Bookmark     April 6, 2014 at 11:35PM
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terrybug

Zeedman, i found this one at the far right corner, it's the only one that fully open. And if u can see that branch made it way to my neighbor side. It's so hard keeping them on my side some have gone thru the fence.

Terry

    Bookmark     April 6, 2014 at 10:58PM
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terrybug

If I understand the way it growing, the flowers are coming on the sides of each branch. Can't wait to see how much fruit it will give me. Thanks to all who reply.

Terry

    Bookmark     April 6, 2014 at 11:02PM
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ltilton

Let it grow and feed it.

    Bookmark     April 6, 2014 at 3:20PM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

I know it's very exciting to see those little spears emerge, but you have to let them grow for a couple of years before harvesting!
Let them fern out , then cut them back, probably around Thanksgiving in your area.
Compost the area, maybe plant some stuff that you don't have to dig around (garlic, onions hmmmm) chives????
Then the next year you will be amazed by these thumb sized gus!
We have so much in our 4x8' bed, that we eat it 2x per week, give some to the neighbors and make soup! I haven't tried freezing yet!
Be patient! It will come! LOL Nancy

    Bookmark     April 6, 2014 at 9:59PM
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