23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

Older watermelon leaves may age some, but if the plants keep almost all healthy leaves, all likely is well.

    Bookmark     June 26, 2014 at 5:00PM
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cenflagirl

What kind of camera did you take this shot with? Awesome closeness!

    Bookmark     Yesterday at 10:33AM
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RedSun (Zone 6, NJ)

dave_f1 SC, I took your "Maybe you can just eat your leftover tubers." as insulting. If I'm mistaken, I apologize and I can remove my post.

    Bookmark     Yesterday at 9:51AM
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RedSun (Zone 6, NJ)

I just planted my purple sweet potato today. This is the one I have been talking about:

The slip has almost no root. The boots are actually at the tuber. So I cut a small piece of the tuber and planted the whole thing. I just want to attach the roots if the slip has no roots.

Here is a regular slip:

Field planted:

The front (left) are the slips with full roots (two with attached tubers). Most of the back row (right) are the rootless slips I chopped off the main slips. The rootless slips were housed inside for about a week and have grown roots about 1/2" to 1" long.

Thx for the "help"....

    Bookmark     Yesterday at 9:59AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Sure. Once they begin to break down the all the soil residents quickly go to work on them. Or field mice, or voles, or maybe it was a message from the garden gnomes. :)

Dave

    Bookmark     May 21, 2015 at 3:04PM
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njitgrad

Last night I went to plant some more various garden beans (Burpee brand) and noticed that the soil in my beds was crawling with ants. Not your typical house ant but a bit lighter in color. So after planting my new beans I decided to apply DE to the entire area with my puffer applicator.

Still wondering why my Rocdors germinated just fine and not my 274s? The Rocdors were listed as being treated with Captan (don't know what that means) in the seed catalog meanwhile the 274s were untreated.

I just realized today that it may not have been the best idea to sow the new beans last night with the good amount of rain we may get between Sun and Tues.

    Bookmark     Yesterday at 5:26AM
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Peter (6b SE NY)

Thanks. Hopefully it gives me chokes! It's as vernalized as possible without freezing it... should be plenty for sure.

The 4th one didn't make it because I got lazy and stuck it in the ground without hardening off and it burned up.

    Bookmark     last Saturday at 1:55PM
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charlieboring

My 201`5 attempt at growing artichokes in Northern Virginia is underway. I have planted some imperials (from 2014 seeds that were germinated under lights inside) and some globes(from 2013 seeds germinated inside). I started out with 22 plants that germinated from 25 seeds. I now have 5 planted in my raised garden and six planted among my landscaping plants. Some died from overwatering. I vernalized them starting on March 1, so that should have been enough to get fruit. Here are pictures at various stages. The last was taken today.

2 Likes    Bookmark     Yesterday at 5:17AM
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FADiver (7B, eastern Virginia)

Maybe... But I just find that hard to believe... I just got soil test results that showed that all the nutrient levels were fine. And, the other cucurbits in the garden, including the large squash on the right are getting the same amount of water and are in the same soil and they're thriving. Add the spots on some of the leaves, and to me, it seemed like it must be disease. But, this morning suddenly the sick plant has begun to flower, so maybe it's not down for the count just yet.

    Bookmark     Yesterday at 4:23AM
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gumby_ct(CT it says Z5)

Having blossoms is like having babies and can weaken the plant further. Have you checked for insects on the backsides of the leaves?

    Bookmark     Yesterday at 4:59AM
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Nash Stanton

We had similar damage to our tomato plants and thought it was my herbicide spraying in the lawn at first. But upon closer look, there were copious amounts of aphids on the backside sucking away the plant. If you don't have any bugs on the leaves, then it must be herbicide drift.

Our plants 2 years ago looked extremely similar. The leaves were curled, deformed and shriveled but it wasn't herbicide. Look very very closely at the leaves.

    Bookmark     last Saturday at 11:06PM
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bcomplx(z6VA)

As Jean says, it could be either contaminated potting soil or compost, or herbicide drift. I'd set aside any amendments you used when potting up those guys, maybe plant some beans in the leftover soil and see if they crinkle up as they grow. If they grow fine, you can rule out aminopyralid or chlorpyrolid in the soil.

    Bookmark     Yesterday at 3:41AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yep. Patience. They will come when ready. They like to "make an entrance". :)

Dave

1 Like    Bookmark     last Saturday at 11:52AM
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ninecrow(England)

Cool Beans Guys

Thank You

:)

    Bookmark     Yesterday at 1:34AM
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grubby_AZ Tucson Z9

Just for funsies, here's powdery mildew for real. I let this run to see how far it would go. It goes far.If you get this much, it's too late to panic...

1 Like    Bookmark     last Saturday at 1:29PM
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Tabatha

O.O woah... That looks intense!

    Bookmark     last Saturday at 4:55PM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

It takes a while for lime to start raising the ph so it's often added in the fall that way by spring it's done its magic. You can add the lime now and scratch it in but it won't have any immediate effect.

Rodney

    Bookmark     last Saturday at 1:29PM
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farmerdill

Depends: If you add ground limestone (Calcium carbbonate) it does take time to react so you would not get immediate results. If you add slaked lime/hydrated lime ( Calcium Hydroxide) results will be very quick. Most vegetables do ok at pH 5.5 but there are a few like beets, limas etc that like pH 6.5 or more.

    Bookmark     last Saturday at 3:40PM
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Stu Zone 7a

Well, I think it is solved. Saw some nice pepper seedlings at the nursery that looked a whole lot better than mine after 3 weeks so decided to just pull them out. Sure enough, they came out easily and the peat pot had only a couple thin roots that made it out, everything else was balled up inside. So replaced them with new peppers, but decided to try and see if I could save these as well. Peeled off the peat pot from each- was surprisingly not that interwoven with roots- and replanted. Probably a lot for some pretty sick peppers to endure but will see what happens. Thanks for the suggestions!

    Bookmark     last Saturday at 2:07PM
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Peter (6b SE NY)

They are definitely not beyond recovery. Good luck!

    Bookmark     last Saturday at 2:15PM
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Peter (6b SE NY)

Leeks bolting means the leeks are no longer good... they become woody... or so I've read.

I ate an elephant garlic scape last night and it didn't really taste like much. I think I cut it too small.

    Bookmark     last Saturday at 5:23AM
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elisa_z5

The scape can be edible if it's *really* young. If it is already big it's probably woody, as Peter mentioned. Leeks make beautiful flowers that attract lots of bees, so I'd vote for letting it go to flower/seed. When it drops the seeds, it'll plant you loads of new leeks, so you won't have to start any indoors next winter -- just dig these up and plant deeply to get good white parts.

    Bookmark     last Saturday at 11:50AM Thanked by ilodato
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

And you don't even have to start it indoors. You can direct sow lettuce outside. Put a sheet of clear plastic or glass over the soil to warm it up for a earlier start. For those planters you could just sprinkle a small pinch of seed and and start getting cut and come again salad quite quickly.

    Bookmark     last Saturday at 1:25AM Thanked by met203
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met203(6)

Great suggestion. Thank you!

    Bookmark     last Saturday at 11:20AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Have you considered that the underlying cause of such an infestation is excessive use of nitrogen fertilizes of some type? Excess nitrogen attracts them in droves.

Never had such an infestation such as you describe as I only use very low dose N in small amounts. S o the water hose and just stripping them off with fingers works fine for me even with hundreds of plants. The lady bugs take care of the rest. Corn is the only crop I ever have any real issues with them because of all the high N feeding it requires. But both peppers and eggplants require minimal N.

I assume you know that Neem and Safer Soap can also kill ladybugs so could be reducing your natural controls?

Another effective way of controlling them is taped fingers (masking tape) rubbed up and down the stems lightly. Picks up hundreds at a time.

Then there is Surround, a kaolin clay dust used to control various sucking insects. Quite effective but messy to work with.

Otherwise about all you can do is bring out the big gun pesticides like malathion and permethrin which I never advocate doing. Do keep in mind that the majority of the damage done by aphids is appearance type and usually tolerated by the plants unless the infestation is quite severe.

You might use the search to pull up all the 100's of previous discussions about 'aphid control' on this forum for additional suggestions.

Dave

IPM Aphid Controls

1 Like    Bookmark     last Saturday at 10:14AM
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dave_f1 SC, USDA Zone 8a(7b)

ilodato, that may be true in general, but there's enormous amount of variation in potatoes. Flower color is dependent on the exact variety and it's pedigree.

1 Like    Bookmark     last Saturday at 7:36AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Given the varieties I routinely grow - Yukon, Russet Burbank, Red Norland, and Kennebec I find lavender flowers to be the most common. When they bloom, which they don't always do anyway.

Dave

2 Likes    Bookmark     last Saturday at 9:58AM
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