23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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lucillle

That's a good idea but I think most are coming to help with the work. I think some of them are her good friends but not gardeners.
But I will make a point of suggesting a plant trade party for next year. (Hopefully dear son will have proposed by then, this gf is a keeper).

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 5:10PM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

LOL Many moons ago, my BIL wanted to have a rugby club party at our 5 acre place (they were city folk)
We thought this would be a great opportunity for some strong young men to help us dig our garden area!
We put the keg at the far end of the garden area and a bunch of shovels at the gate with instructions to dig their way to the keg.
What we ended up with was a trompled down path from the gate to the keg!
Don't include beer, but food might be a better incentive ......or beer AFTER the garden is done! ;) Nancy

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 8:57PM
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carolync1(z8/9 CA inland)

If nighttime temperatures are the issue, put the tomatoes outdoors during the day, getting them gradually used to full sun. Bring them in at night. Keep transplanting into larger (but not TOO MUCH larger) containers with good drainage and well-aerated planting mix to help the plants concentrate on growing bigger rather than flowering and fruiting. One USDA extension in Texas recommends starting plants early and transplanting up to a gallon sized container before setting out because their hot weather sets in so fast in the spring.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 4:02PM
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annew21(7b NC)

Definitely agree with Dave about removing the blossoms. I always remove early blossoms after I have planted in the garden, until the plants have at least doubled (or more) in size. It definitely seems to improve production in the long run.

- Anne

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 8:54PM
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pnbrown

If rows are east west then of course more care must be taken to get tallest crops to the north and shortest south.

    Bookmark     April 15, 2014 at 12:44PM
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gardenper(8)

I grow 3 varieties of peppers that I like to eat, and about 3 varieties of basil also. So while you mentioned a general name of the plants you had, in case you were only growing one kind, now you can grow several kinds.

I also like mustard greens as well as feeding it to my birds for their greens to munch on.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 5:19PM
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howelbama(7 NJ)

You want your tallest plants (trellised or otherwise) on the northern side of your garden so they don't shade out anything.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 3:44PM
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gardenper(8)

Crop rotation was more of an idea for larger planting areas where it may not have been possible to replenish the nutrients there for the next season (or two), including not having enough compost to cover the entire growing area.

However, in backyard plots, you can do that with compost or other nutrient mixes for the small quantity of planting that you will do.

You can still use the idea of square foot gardening in your yard, so you can make more use of the growing space.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 4:59PM
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jonfrum(6)

Frost-damaged potato vines will grow back - no problem. I wouldn't bother starting them under lights - not much is gained.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 4:09PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree they will grow back unless the container and all of its contents got frozen, they recover. I had damage to exposed tops the past two nights in my potato fields, and we had hilled them under when the freeze was forecast, but expect full recovery.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 4:31PM
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andy32844

Yea it looks like the pictures I posted. Those are pictures I took last night. I just wanted to be sure before I haul it to the garden.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 1:14PM
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2ajsmama

Sorry! So many posters I didn't notice that the person who posted the pix was the OP. That looks really good, till it in or just spread it thick and plant right in it, the worms will take care of the rest.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 1:30PM
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bart1(6/7 Northern VA)

That's garlic you harvested last year, right?

Not sure when you harvest in San Francisco, but for me in VA, we harvest in June, so my bulbs have been sitting around for 10 months. Mine has been pushing out new "sprouts" for months. I just use the ones that are growing sprouts first and save the rest for later.

So to answer your question, what causes this is time. Garlic, onions, and potatoes will all start growing if you leave them long enough.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 9:27AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

OK. Now I get it. Those are last years galics ?
The one that has fully opened, probably was overdue when harvested OR just the sprouting pressure pushe the wraps open b'c there was not enough wrap on it to begin with. JMO

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 1:07PM
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Prachi(6b (NJ))

Ok Nevermind I found my answer. Funny that I can search garden web better when I search from google versus gardenwebs own search engine.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 11:43AM
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Flyster

It's mostly protein, fat and fibre with small amounts of phosphous, sodium and calcium.

    Bookmark     April 15, 2014 at 11:31AM
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djkj(9b)

I used fish emulsion and it works nicely as a foliar spray. I sometimes water with fish emulsion in a watering can . It smells really bad for some time and then its OK :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Foliar Spraying Plants

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 12:42AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I agree with Howelbama. Foliar feeding is bypassing the root system , where certain nutrients might not be readily available. It is also a quick fix. But if your soil has a correct pH and certain element are not in balance, foliar feeding can help. The Miracle Grow water soluble fertilizer in a feeder/sprayer does that in part. So people get lush flowers. Just be careful to use a light dose not to burn the plants. I have used epsom salt and peroxide in the past but not sure how effective it is.

    Bookmark     April 15, 2014 at 7:23PM
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djkj(9b)

I think there are some plants that it is effective on. For example, I see tomatoes flourishing when foliar feeding them. It may have to do with the fish or seaweed in the spray. The micro nutrients may be more readily absorbed via the stoma.

This post was edited by djkj on Wed, Apr 16, 14 at 0:39

    Bookmark     April 16, 2014 at 12:38AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Why not post this over on the Companion Planting forum here? That will get you the best feedback from those who follow that school of thought.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Companion Planting forum

    Bookmark     April 15, 2014 at 10:10PM
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prairiemoon2 z6 MA

Creativeguy, I was thinking the same thing about being able to turn your tomato support system into a greenhouse. :-)

Thanks Seysonn, yes, that is another way I could do it. Working on this with my son so I'll pass along all these suggestions and see what he wants to do. He does have a circular saw and some experience with wood, too.

    Bookmark     April 15, 2014 at 8:19PM
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mckenziek(9CA)

I would definitely level them. Water will have less tendency to run off that way.

--McKenzie

    Bookmark     April 15, 2014 at 9:16PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree that the Florida Gardening forum is the place to start. Not only can they advise you on what crops will work there but on the proper planting times - which are far different than for most of us in the rest of the US. Your gardening season will soon be over until fall so you have plenty of time for research. :) Good luck.

Dave

PS: even Central Florida gardeners have difficulty growing asparagus, sorry.

Also check out all these Gardening in SW Florida info sites.

Here is a link that might be useful: Florida Gardening forum

    Bookmark     April 15, 2014 at 9:31AM
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Holliflower

Thanks guys, truly appreciated!!!!

    Bookmark     April 15, 2014 at 8:33PM
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Slimy_Okra(2b)

No need to cover anything except the strawberries.

    Bookmark     April 15, 2014 at 6:23PM
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ltilton

You should really investigate those drains, even if it takes some digging.

I, too, have clay soil and poor drainage. The only place I have for gardening is in a lowlying area. I usually have some standing water after a rain event, but there are ways to cope.

Amending the soil really helps, but I think it's more important to look at the drainage pattern, the direction in which the water runs off, higher to lower. Dig trenches around the perimeter of the garden to direct it there, hopefully in the direction of the french drains.

Rather than raised beds, I do most of my planting in raised rows, so that the working paths between them also serve as trenches. When I plant crops like squash, I plant them in actual raised hills.

Doing this, I've successfully managed to grow crops like onions, that hate wet feet [always on the garden's high side].

    Bookmark     April 15, 2014 at 9:42AM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I agree with tilton.

Until you can make changes, make raised rows with drainage in the paths,

Perhaps the retaining wall is holding back water from seeping to lower ground.

    Bookmark     April 15, 2014 at 10:44AM
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