23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
If you want to go an easy-peasy route, home depot sells fence panels that are all assembled and you have to do is come up with a way to put them up. Lots of different styles, but you will definitely pay a premium for them, cost of convenience and all.
My dogs dig voles that like the soil among the mature apple and pear trees, which makes a mess but is of certain benefit.
In the veg garden I use temporary chicken wire fences to keep dogs, cats and chickens off of sensitive beds.
One suggestion: Don't try to alter the current dog trails through your yard too much. Instead try to design around them, within reason.
I'd quit spraying the leaves with anything as coating the leaves only makes the problem worse.
It is one thing to spray plant leaves when the plant is outside exposed to the elements but indoors the spray coating only builds up and plugs the leaf pores.
And dish soap sprays unless carefully mixed and very weak can kill plants all on its own.
Instead just make up a diluted Neem and water mix in a bowl and gently wipe the underside of the leaves with a soft cloth dipped in it. That wipes off the mites at the same time.
But please understand that mites are very difficult to control/eliminate unless you use the chemical pesticides that are effective on them. So the plant may be a lost cause.
And yes, if you have other plants that are not yet infected, then I would toss this plant before the problem spreads.
Dave
Both varieties are currently only available wholesale to commercial growers (minimum order 1000 seeds). You can contact the distributors at the phone numbers on the link below.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Outstanding Seed distributors list
I had contacted and bought some other seeds from one of the growers dealers to whom they sell, they didn't have either pumpkins and that is where I saw the listed two types and just had to get some seeds for them......sadly the price I would have to pay for a thousand seeds from the growers would break my piggy bank and I couldn't buy seeds for the rest of my gardens......I was hoping there was another dealer who might sell the seeds in a smaller amount.....though I think your right, I should call the distributor and ask if there is one of their dealers to whom they sell which might have them available to a "small" grower, in a "smaller" amount....thanks again "digdirt"....
You can't separate plants grown in rock wool since they quickly incorporate the wool cube right into the roots and base of the plant. One reason why onions and other root crops aren't commonly considered a rock wool crop since you have to sacrifice part of the edible root to get rid of the wool cube..
Are clusters bad? If you plan to harvest and use them as scallions, yes. If you don't care if they look like bulbs of garlic or shallots and are willing to sacrifice the immature ones attached around the core, fine.
Dave
I saved rosemary seeds and basil and holy basil seeds last year. I'd love to trade with you. I am just learning how to save seeds. I want to grow mostly heirloom plants. I didn't have much luck on the seed exchange here. I got alot of seeds that didn't germinate.
Zackey, my wife grew holy basil for the first time this past year. I really liked the flavor. I wouldn't have thought any kind of basil would make a nice tea, but I thought the holy basil made an outstanding tea. I just saw in Southern Exposure's catalog that holy basil is supposed to be a different species from other basils (O. sanctum instead of O. basilicum.) I wonder if that means it won't cross with other basils. I also wonder what kind of isolation distance is necessary to prevent cross-pollination in basils that can cross-pollinate. Zackey, if you (or anyone else) wants to e-mail me directly, I'd be glad to hear about your interests, idea, recommendations, to explore potential for trades, etc.
Anne, thanks for the suggestion. I am familiar with CFSA. As one of the farms that gave a pre-conference farm tour my wife and I got free passes to the annual conference one year, and we certainly hear about other things that CFSA does. I haven't, however, seen/recognized much in the way of opportunities with CFSA to connect with other seed savers, especially not the kind of small-scale seed savers that would presumably be more open to non-commercial kinds of information sharing and cooperation, etc. I think they host an annual seed swap, and I used to think seed swaps would bring a bunch of seed savers together, but my impression now is that seed swaps (speaking generally here about seed swaps everywhere) mostly just involve leftover and surplus commercial seed.
It will draw critters if you just dump it on top. If your compost pile is large enough, you could dig a hole in it and bury the chowder. Or, you could dig a hole/trench in your garden bed and bury it there. I sure wouldn't waste it. None of my leftovers go in the garbage can or down the disposal.
It will not harm your compost; it will decompose and become a part of the pile. As it decomposes, there will be a little more stench caused by the gasses released by the milk and fish. I would bury it in the middle of the pile to help control the smell. If critters get to it, they may mess your pile up, but other than that, I see no reason not to compost it.
That's interesting that you don't get them on your iPad sunnibel. If you look at the bottom of this screen you will see 'Learn more about in-text links on this page here'.
What you see is certain words within posts in a different colour and if you are unfortunate enough to hover your cursor near them an ad fills the middle of the screen making it impossible to continue reading the post until you click the x to close it. Even then often clicking the x makes it continue and you have to click again elsewhere to really get rid of it. For example a post about garden 'clean' up will cause an ad about a floor polish to fill your screen. They have annoyed plenty of other people.
Here is a link that might be useful: In text ads.
One thing annoys me about this 'sticky':
1. That it is on every page of each forum, not just page one.
Actually two things annoy me about this 'sticky':
2. That it is essentially an advertisement, not relevant to the topic of each forum and certainly not an attempt to preserve some of the valuable information or sage wisdom that drops off beyond 'page 67' every day, or even to be helpful to newcomers.
Actually three things annoy me about this 'sticky':
3. That it is just a repeat of a link from the 'What's new' section an inch above it!
I grew shallots from bulb last year with good sucess however the bulbs are pricy. I am in Minnesota so fall planting I doubt will work. I want to try these from seed this year. I typically start onions from seed in late February and work them under grow lights till they are ready to go outside. I am wondering if shallots from seed work the same way. If I do start them from seed will they have multiple shallots per plant or only one the first season?
I agree to some extent with lazygardener.
But the subject matter is too broad. It depend on the duration of these classes ; How many sessions? Who are the participants?
So to me you have to start with a brief introduction about plant life and soil chemistry in simple language first. Then get into a more practical aspects, like starting seeds and caring for it.
You wouldn't want to overload the information. Nowadays most people have access to internet. You can encourage hem to do some NET study if they really are serious about gardening. To me gardening is similar to swimming. You cannot teach in a classroom how to swim.
JMO
I agree totally with lazygardens - you need to hook people immediately with something practical and hands on. Maybe a vegetable id blind tasting or something. If you start with the soil science half of them will not be back the next week.
Since the OP has not returned there's not much to go on. All ideas are speculation without more info.
You will find more information searching for "luffa", its common English name.
It's normal for the first blossoms to be male, and for them to drop off quickly. They are there to get the pollinators in the habit of coming to the plant.
Don't expect every flower to become a gourd. After the female flowers appear, many will fall off unpollinated.
Make sure the pollinating insects (bees) can reach the plant and keep the plants properly watered. Move them outside, or to larger pots, if they need more room.
I think you also have to notify the federal authorities. They'll declare your bed a toxic waste dump, and evacuate people from the area. Plan on having the bed excavated, sterilized, covered with concrete, and lined with barbed wire fencing. Feel free to design your garden on that basis. Silk flowers, perhaps? You may hear howls of laughter from at least the local cat.
Sorry, I couldn't resist ...
" But one of the one commenters on my previous post commented that cat manure contains Toxoplasmosis bacteria that can be transported through my food that I grow... Is it something I should worry about?"
Actually ... NO. in the USA, infected meat is far more likely to be a cause of infection than cat feces.
http://www.stanford.edu/class/humbio103/ParaSites2006/Toxoplasmosis/epidemiology.html
If you look at the timing of the infection, the cysts are infectious for only a short while ... " Oocysts sporulated within 2-3 days in all types of cat litters and occasionally remained viable for 14 days. " (depends on the conditions - when it's cold and dry survival times are highest)
Also, a cat with Toxoplasmosis only releases the cysts for a short while.
There's a difference between stratification and scarification. ivanbelenjr is doing scarification. The period in the fridge is stratification. But it seems odd to me to stratify the seeds of tropical plants. What's the reasoning behind that?
I had a great pepper that performed super well. It's called Lady Belle. It had all kinds of bug attacks and tons or rain. It never stopped producing. The only bad thing it got hot when it was baked as stuffed peppers. It got so heavy with peppers I had to stake it.
Lots of discussions about this over on the Growing Tomatoes forum here that you can read through. And how often you feed a plant depends on if it is in the ground or in a container.
But coffee grounds is hardly a well-balanced or even a good fertilizer. Whatever nutrients they might supply to the plant are minimal.
Dave