23,822 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Melon in container ? It could be challenging, I think.
Besides a good volume of soil, it has to be deep as well.
Then there is the question of vines. How do you manage it in a limited space ? Trellis, stake? cage?. UNLESS it is bush type.

    Bookmark     March 26, 2014 at 8:05PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I guess I should specify that I am growing vertically in a limited space. So, I was planning to prune the laterals off of the cucumbers all the way up and then let laterals grow across and train it to go back down.

It is your choice of course but while I don't think it is dumb to ask and I don't know the source of the information you have been given, I should point out and most gardeners grow their cukes vertically on some sort of trellis - myself included - rather than just let them run across the ground and develop rot.

But pruning the lateral vines sure isn't a common practice. They are naturally great climbers if left alone. It would weaken the primary vines, encourage vine breakage, stresses the plant, eliminate much of the pollination required by eliminating so much of the productive bloom area, reduce photosynthesis for the plant's energy, and reduces production.

Good luck with all your efforts.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 26, 2014 at 8:41PM
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Prachi(6b (NJ))

Thanks seysonn... good to know... I am so excited I may pat it lightly anyway (I really thought the plant was a goner). 2 fruits already how cool!

    Bookmark     March 26, 2014 at 8:20PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Yeah, 2 fruits already, prachi.
I sowed the seeds on 12/15/13, over 3 months ago. I fished the seeds from an store bought eggplant and wanted to see if they are viable. Luckily it is a dwarf plant.

    Bookmark     March 26, 2014 at 8:28PM
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ltilton

I start brassicas inside with the plan of settng them out the first of April, then turning the space over to the warm-season crops.

In theory, I'd do the same with lettuce, but the results are not as good.

I've seen people with lettuce flourishing in indoor setups, but it's not as easy as brassicas, in my own experience.

    Bookmark     March 25, 2014 at 10:56AM
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veggievicki(7b)

I never had success with lettuce and broccoli until I bought a light. I think a four foot one at lowe's is maybe ten bucks. It was worth it. And set it right over the seedlings. Having said that, I have gotten to where I don't find it that useful for lettuce, starting outside under plastic works pretty well. Broccoli is worthwhile for me because I have trouble with it getting too hot before I can get a decent crop. I start it right after Christmas so it's pretty good sized by the time it goes in the garden.

    Bookmark     March 25, 2014 at 7:45PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Most so called "cool crops" are tolerant of shade :
--ONIONS, CHIVES, LEEKS, PARSLEY, CILANTRO, CHARDS, LETTUCE ..., SAGE, OREGANO, TARRAGON

    Bookmark     March 25, 2014 at 4:25PM
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HotHabaneroLady(7a Central MD)

I would add spinach, mint and mustard greens to the list of good shade crops, especially if you have hot summers. If you can have dappled sun, especially if it's only lightly dappled, then you might find more options would work well.

    Bookmark     March 25, 2014 at 7:40PM
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ltilton

Nice map! I've bookmarked it.

    Bookmark     March 25, 2014 at 11:00AM
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DragonFlyTx

Thanks! Very helpful. I booked marked it as well.

    Bookmark     March 25, 2014 at 6:57PM
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Natures_Nature(5 OH)

Galinas,

You are in zone 10, i dont want to hear it! Haha! 15 f outside is our high on some days! Try -10 out!

    Bookmark     March 24, 2014 at 5:53PM
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galinas(5B)

Hm) thank you for pointing me on the zone issue - I am actually in zone 5B)

    Bookmark     March 25, 2014 at 11:35AM
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lucillle

Haask since you seem to be well read on the subject, what is your opinion about the allopathic qualities of other types of oak trees?

    Bookmark     March 25, 2014 at 9:41AM
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haask

I live on an acre with about 25 red and white oak trees (and many other species). In my situation, I have very little choice as to where I place the garden. The closest point of the garden is around 20 feet south of the Red Oak. The Oak is so tall, that the garden is in full sun all day long.

My opinion on the Red Oak is that it is seems much less potent than a black walnut. The garden can be managed, by simply keeping the roots away from the vegetable plants.

That's basically my experience. I have no other experience with any other types of oaks. From my research, I'm not sure if I even remember any other oak being an issue.

    Bookmark     March 25, 2014 at 10:51AM
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Yes, I figured I was being generous with 2-3 feet spacing. Of course, that corresponds to a root ball diameter of 1-1.5 feet. I've heard that, at least grown from seed, tomatoes have a pretty stout tap-root, which is what I think I'm seeing in your picture.

    Bookmark     March 24, 2014 at 10:21PM
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CaraRose

Seysonn, just curious, do you plant yours deeply? It looks like the original rootball on the bottom and the new roots that filled in from the stem after planting towards the top.

If that's the case, your photo is also a great example of why you should plant them deep to get all those roots. :)

    Bookmark     March 24, 2014 at 11:57PM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

NoNoNo! #1 gophers will chew right through CW if not squeeze through! #2Voles will just saunter through like it was a hallway to the vege palace! #3 They will rot out in a couple of years. Do you want to dig out ALL of that dirt just to do it all again?
Do it right the first time and use hardware (or gopher) cloth! It is worth the extra $! Our origional 4 beds have not failed in13 and 10 years. We had a shovel go through accidentally in one bed, but were able to dig down and repair the tear in the wire.
All those tiny rhodents can squeeze themselves down to about the size of a fat thumb.Sorry I was so adament! LOL I hate gophers! LOL Nancy

    Bookmark     March 24, 2014 at 9:15PM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

NoNoNo! #1 gophers will chew right through CW if not squeeze through! #2Voles will just saunter through like it was a hallway to the vege palace! #3 They will rot out in a couple of years. Do you want to dig out ALL of that dirt just to do it all again?
Do it right the first time and use hardware (or gopher) cloth! It is worth the extra $! Our origional 4 beds have not failed in13 and 10 years. We had a shovel go through accidentally in one bed, but were able to dig down and repair the tear in the wire.
All those tiny rhodents can squeeze themselves down to about the size of a fat thumb.Sorry I was so adament! LOL I hate gophers! LOL Nancy

    Bookmark     March 24, 2014 at 9:16PM
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Natures_Nature(5 OH)

"they like stop developing, and sit there for 2-3 weeks with almost no visible development, some of them got a very small true leave, that doesn't grow. After that they start to get dry from the border of the leaves and finally just dry out."

I had an aphid infestation last year and it did just that. The sprouts with cotyledon leaves just sat there for weeks, kind of deformed looking, with very small leaves. I finally examined the little month old sprouts, they had dozens of small aphids tapping the stem for nutrients. If not, Perhaps damp off?

    Bookmark     March 24, 2014 at 5:50PM
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galinas(5B)

Thank you both! I think the word "suffocated" will be exact word! I remembered what i did different last two years. I red in Vegetable garden guide online that cabbages like very firm soil. So I thought it is applicable to the seedlings as well. So I compacted the mix in the pot a little, before I planted the seeds. And I didn't do this first year, as I didn't know the fact the cabbage likes firm soil). So sometimes, no knowledge is better, when you follow the common sense. Fortunately, the spring is so slow this year, I can plant them again and will not be too late to plant them out when they ready.

    Bookmark     March 24, 2014 at 7:02PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

In a couple hours since I've posted, both of the smaller plants are back to normal. Like nothing happened.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Very interesting. This outright rules out any root problem. IMO any root problem is no/cannot be reversible.

Wilting like what I see in the picture, can be due to TWO things:

___ extreme thirst'
___ extreme heat/sun

In both above cases, plant will perk up after watering and after the source of heat/sun has gone.

You say you water them every other day. But is it possible that you forgot watering for much longer than that ? OR maybe it is not just enough.

It happens to me all the time. Just a week ago some of my tomato seedlings were wilting to the point of dying: THE CAUSE: thirst. After watering, they perked up but the lower leaves did not recover.

Sure, soil less medium is better but I have grown all kinds of things in pots filled with garden soil.
The problem with compaction and root bounding is that the pot cannot hold enough moisture for a long time (maybe not for one day), in the dog days of summer. Probably you have summer like weather in Florida right now ?

THE BOTTOM LINE SOLUTION (imo)
re pot them with soil less potting mix into a bigger pot.

Hope all this is worth couple of pennies. But I am not asking for anything. hehe

    Bookmark     March 23, 2014 at 10:39PM
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pnbrown

No, they don't usually (right away) but it can happen. If some contaminated sand got mixed into the container mix, for example, or if the containers sit without any added fertility for a long while they will eventually invade.

Fertility and crop rotation is what stops predatory nematodes, and both of those are hard to maintain long-term in containers.

    Bookmark     March 24, 2014 at 7:24AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Sorry but the fact that your plants are having issues does not mean the soil in your bed is contaminated. First because the most common tomato diseases are airborne and second because the loose description of the symptoms you describe can have many different causes besides disease - nutrient deficiency being the most common.

Granted there are seed-borne diseases and a couple of soil borne diseases too but they are more rare and tend to be very regional.

So before you can determine if there is anything wrong with the soil itself you fist have to discover exactly what the problems with the plants are.

Photos posted on the Tomato forum here would help but a local consult with your county extension service or at least one of their Master Gardeners would be more beneficial.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 23, 2014 at 4:33PM
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GinsengCan I grow ginseng in a shade house?
Posted by zzackey(8b GA) February 16, 2014
36 Comments
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Deeby

My grandmother said that the plant had five leaves that were spread apart, like spreading apart your fingers and thumb.
My impression is that she meant a plant that was low to the ground.

    Bookmark     March 21, 2014 at 3:09PM
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bggrows(6a/6b)

My Dad gathered ginseng after he retired and he was able to walk the woods in south central Kentucky in what we called the knob land. I went with him once. He knew where all the patches were and the land owners didn't seem to mind. He would only go when he knew the berries were ripe.The red stands out in the woods on the 6" to 10" plants and he could spot them from a distance.
He would only dig large roots when the plant had more than 4 leaves and never a young plant.. He would also scatter the seed. A mature root looks like a human figure, head, arms and legs. Thus, five fingers. He said it took many years for a 5 prong root to grow.
He sold his but only made a few dollars as the roots have to be very dry and takes a lot to make a few ounces. He just enjoyed being in the woods.
He did try to grow some from root and seed but they never did anything. The best I remember, they grew on the north hillside in dense shade.

    Bookmark     March 23, 2014 at 3:58PM
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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

Unless you're growing from real seeds instead of tubers, your potatoes will "grow true." Potatoes grown from tubers are actually clones of the mother plant. So, they will have exactly the same set of genes as the plant they came from.

    Bookmark     March 23, 2014 at 11:29AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

You won't be growing "seed" or saving seed. You'll be planting potatoes and growing more potatoes from those you planted.

Your primary problem will be figuring out how to save/store/prevent rotting so the potatoes you harvest this year can be planted the following year.

Fingerlings are small to begin with so they decline more rapidly than big potatoes do. And with their sugar to carbohydrate ratio they don't store for long.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 23, 2014 at 12:35PM
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cdlongjr

I did you demin water in the testing
& used this kit:Mosser Lee Soil Master Soil Testing Kit. I'll check w/ the county and see what I need to do to get the soil tested.
Thanks

    Bookmark     March 21, 2014 at 7:43AM
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alan haigh

Most vegetables are pretty adaptable to a range of pH, certainly anything between 6 and 7 will be fine for most of what you grow but it is nice to have the confidence of knowledge and your cooperative extension will do a quick pH test for a modest fee. If your results are similar you can be more confidant of your own measurements in the future.

I use a Cornell kit that allows me to come within a decimal point or two of what the best lab will verify which is all that is needed for practical purposes.

Your cooperative extension will also provide at least a source for testing your soil at a lab that will write a "prescription" for home vegetable production which will clarify the balance of nutrients you should be adding.

I believe it is impossible that your soil does not have measurable amounts of N, P and K or no plants could survive in it. I've had literally hundreds of different soils tested and while any of these nutrients may be at low levels, they are always there.

    Bookmark     March 23, 2014 at 7:02AM
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