23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening


This is a duplicate post. Your original post is linked below.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Your original post



Though each state might have its regulations, but in general, for small scale operations there is no need to get a permit or license or register, unless it has something to do with public safety and health. Some state might require licensing just to make some revenues, just like licensing a street peddler.

How often will depend on what you use to feed them. Gus is a heavy feeder.
If you use only compost then 1-2" layered on top 3-4x a year. You can't really OVER-feed them with compost.
I use manured composted on my beds and feed them liberally in early spring before spears sprout, again once harvest in done, again mid-summer, and again in the fall as a mulch for the bed after the deaf ferns are removed.
But keep in mind that compost alone won't feed them unless you have a very active soil food web established in the bed. And even then it takes time for it to work. So a handful of watered in compost doesn't do anything for them now.
If you use a good well balanced granular fertilizer you can probably get by with 2x a year. Or you can use one of the many good organic liquid fertilizers once a month when you water the bed.
Dave

Agreed. It's very common to harvest lettuce and spinach by picking individual leaves instead of the entire plant. At that time, you could discard the outermost leaves, which are often getting pretty battered by then anyway.
If you harvest the whole plant, the oldest leaves will likely look even more unappetizing.




Nice to know everyone is trying to grow different varieties and the opinions about them. I have had great success growing Black Beauty. Yes they do need heavy fertilizing in the growing season. The results are worth it :) I have been using an organic fertilizer with lots of bacteria in it and it seems to provide good amount of soil activity (lots of worms!)

I just bought my house last june and was told the previous owners brought in the soil for this garden. The neighbors said he had a good garden every year. I have not done a soil test yet. I have increased the watering and the plants are looking a little better (except for litte black flies on the new growth on the bean plants I think they are thrips..) but nothing Is growing great. I have another jalapeno plant that I planted by the house and not In the garden that Is probably 2x as big as the one planted at the same time In the garden. It Is planted In a small bed that looks like It had regular soil mixed with gardening soil. I prepared the soil by turning it with a shovel as deep as I could get it and adding about half a bag of black kow brand composted manure and turned it in real well. This is not a raised bed garden. I have some tomato tone and some garden tone coming that I was going to use on my next days off. I am also thinking of doing a soil test.and then adding the tomato tone and garden tone. Any other ideas on what I should do?

Just to make you guys feel better...low of 0 F expected tonight! I've installed two layers of Agribon 19 plus six-mil poly for protection. The most sensitive among what I've already planted out includes beets and chard which don't really like anything below 25.

I've mostly got brassicas out, but one row of lettuce. I'll cover that. Got two flats of brassicas not yet put out, luckily.
The onions can fend for themselves. The potatoes are under straw.
The soil is supposed to be at 50 F four inches down, so the seeds may be OK. Can always reseed.

The question is : PEPPERS FERTILIZING.
I am also interested to know: ARE PEPPERS DIFFERENT FROM TOMATOES? how/ what/ why ?
This year is going to be my major pepper adventure. Probably mostly in containers, using 5-1-1 soil mix. I have dolomitic lime (with Ca and Mg.), plus CRF (MG Shake n Feed). These all go in the mix. WHAT NEXT ?
I have grown hot pepper with some degree of success in the past but not the sweet ones. I have given up on BELL types all together.

A lot of things cause flower/fruit drop, it's my experience that peppers are kind of touchy in that regard. Too hot, they drop flowers. Too cold, they drop flowers. Too wet or too dry? You guessed it, they drop their flowers. It's like goldilocks living in your garden, they like it to be just right! I wouldn't automatically assume it was the nitrogen. As Dave said, that will cause them to be big, beautiful, bushy plants, but will fail to develop very many flowers to begin with.
I too, have almost given up on bell peppers. I have tried containers and I never get any peppers. This year, they are going in the raised bed, if they don't work out, I'll be done with them for good.
I second the Vegetable Gardeners Bible. That is a great book. I have several on my bookshelf, but, find that many of them are, at best, good intentioned, at worst, downright misleading. Keep in mind,when reading books, that there is simply far too much info and even more variables to put into a single volume. They can be helpful places to start, but don't always take their word as gospel. Don't be afraid to experiment and fail ("negative results are still results", as I learned from the Big Bang Theory) and go against the grain. Really that goes for the advice given here too. What works in my garden may not work in yours, and vice versa.

I would suggest you at least check around with some of your friends to see who may have a van or truck that could help you out. Two people and a larger vehicle would make the job much easier. Also consider using a wheelbarrow when you get home with full containers and put the wheelbarrow up to the trunk and tip the full containers into it.




Field mice ARE voles. At least around these parts that is the common name for voles. :-)
Since they spend quite a bit of time underground, building networks of tunnels called "vole runs", they gnaw on tree and shrub roots to keep their teeth from growing too large, just like other rodents. They also find tasty morsels that we plant, like root vegetables, that give them the opportunity to gnaw and have a tasty meal.
Voles seem to be particularly fond of potatoes and sweet potatoes. They completely devastated my small crop of sweet potatoes a couple of years ago. Not one single sweet potato was untouched by the time they were done.
After that, I decided the root veggies will be grown in fabric pots, not the ground.
If you have small beds, you could use hardware cloth around your garden. Voles can't climb very high so you only need about 12 inches above ground and 6 inches below ground. Most voles only burrow about 6 inches or less below ground level, unless you have pine voles, in which case the hardware cloth should go down about 12 inches below the ground at the garden perimeter.
Of course, this could be both expensive and time-consuming if you have huge gardens. I grow all of my root vegetables in fabric pots or containers now. I hate those little spawns of satan.
Moles, on the other hand, disrupt your ground but they eat grubs and worms, not plant matter. They certainly could disrupt young plants as they push through the soil looking for food, but they don't eat plants and won't eat your almost fully grown root vegetables.
If it doesn't have eyes, it's a mole. If it looks like a mouse and has eyes, it's a vole. You can have both at the same time. I certainly do. I don't mind moles all that much and tend to leave them alone.
Voles are rodents; moles are NOT rodents.
Appearance-wise, voles are a bit different from a mice, but it's not immediately obvious. Voles have smaller ears and shorter tails. However, I don't care - they are still destructive little mice to me. They give me the creeps, like all rodents.
So 1/4 inch hardware cloth, installed like a fence, except you put about 6 inches of it under the ground and the rest above ground. Make sure it surrounds the entire perimeter of the area where you want to grow root veggies.
If you have pine voles (and they seem to be more common in the west and midwest) then go down a foot. The idea is to block them from getting in via underground tunneling. Like all rodents, they can "collapse" their bodies and get through small holes. Since they are small, 1/2 inch holes probably won't stop them, so use the 1/4 inch.
Best of luck.
Wow, I can't believe they can manage to get through 1/2 inch mesh. When I bought the rolls of hardware cloth, I was thinking 1/4 inch would be better for keeping out the critters, but later had second thoughts that it might impeded the roots of the vegetables I'm growing, like Asparagus that go pretty deep or keep the earthworms from moving into the bed from the subsoil. Does anyone have any idea if that could happen or not?
I'm not going to be able to put fencing all around the vegetable plot, so the alternative was to install it to the bottom of the raised bed frames.
We have not yet seen voles, but have spotted a mole in the garden. I've read that voles show up after moles and use the tunnels that they've dug. I realize the moles eat the earthworms and not the plants, but I work hard at creating soil that has a lot of earthworms in it and I don't really want them snacking on them and reducing their numbers. [g]
So, since we are just building new beds, I'd rather bite the bullet and do it now and not regret not doing it later.
Thanks Seysonn and Lionheart!