23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Whose trees are those? Would they allow you to lop the top off, just enough to get you more sun?
Sun from morning to 2 pm isn't TOO bad. You could plant a lot of veggies there except the hardcore sun lovers.
If you know the height of the tree, x
and the distance from a point in the veggie garden to the tree, y
Divide x/y and you'll get a fraction, z.
Go to google and type in "arctan z in degrees" and you'll get a number. This is the sun angle at which that point will start to get shade.
Then go to the link provided below and plug in your latitude, longitude, date, year and time of day. Look at the angle for different times in the afternoon. At the time the sun angle approaches and decreases below the number arrived at above is the time of day you will start to get shade.
The fact that you still get shade after 2-3 pm suggests that a near-full day of sun may be available only in the months of June and July and a maybe a bit of May and August. The current solar angle is approximately the same as it would be in early September.
Here is a link that might be useful: Solar angle
This post was edited by Slimy_Okra on Wed, Apr 9, 14 at 23:30
I had some similar issues when planning out where to put my raised beds. There's a fairly high tree line surrounding the entire yard making it hard to judge hours of direct sun. I downloaded a free android app called sun surveyor lite that acts as a 3D compass for the sun. You can choose any date of the year and estimate hours of light a location will receive. Might be something worth looking into.
Tony
Basically, no IME although like other fingerlings, a few small fingerlings may develop above the main crop.
But they are a late-mid season variety so if you plant in additional layers as the first layer grows you can get a good crop of them out of a container.
I did them in a deep plastic Rubbermaid bin (18 gal.) last year and once the first layer plants broke the soil I then layered in a second layer of the seed potatoes in between the sprouting ones and covered them all. All sprouted and grew well. I got almost 25 lbs. from 2 lbs. of seed potatoes
I could have done a 3rd layer too if I'd bought more of them. Great flavor!
Dave
PS: ever tried beneficial nematodes for wireworm control?
We moved this year so I haven't gotten too far with my garden (plus broke my leg, but I don't even want to go there). Anyway, I had a couple of the large bags that Miracle Grow soil comes in. 66 quarts I think. After I used most of the soil, I rolled them down to about the bottom six inches, poked a few holes in the bottom, and then planted four Yukon golds in each one. Just a bag of them I got from lowe's. They're just starting to come up. I think it'll be interesting to see how that works.
Yep, nights are far, far too cold for okra. Okra sulks if the soil is not warm because it is easily attacked by soil pathogens. Personally, I would yank the plant out, grow something else for now and reseed okra at the appropriate time, which is when nights warm into the high 60s at least.
Don't transplant okra - it really dislikes it. It's only recommended for growers with short summers.
Agree. If your night time temps are that low then there is no way your soil temps are warm enough for okra. Soil temps rather than air temps are vital to planting things at the right time.
Since your production from the one plant will be minimal anyway - if it survives - I'd pull it and plant something more appropriate to your current weather
Dave
Thanks everyone! It is a shame because I had ~20 heathy chard plants I grew from seed. They are all infested now.
I am growing everything in containers (mostly fabric pots).
Anyone have suggestions for how to put row covers over round pots?
What other plants are vulnerable to these pests? My lettuce and mustard have been left alone; however, I have some spinach and bok choy that just sprouted... They are too tiny for the pests to infest yet. I am also growing radishes and lots of other things from seeds that I recently planted.
I haven't had a garden for 8 years, and this is my first west coast garden (and my largest with the most variety). I am sure will encounter a lot of new pests and problems! So thanks so much for your help, I am sure I will need more :)
I am just so happy to be gardening again.
Thanks,
Robin
They attack all sorts of veggies, but usually the only damage is cosmetic.. the little "mines" that you'll see on leaves. Only thing I really ever noticeably see them attack in my garden is mainly cukes.
Like i said, just get another rather large pot, plant some alyssum, marigolds, maybe some cilantro, dill, parsley. Zinnias, even. And you'll be able to keep quite a few pests in check.
Kevin
Here is a link that might be useful: beneficial attractors
As Dave said, you need to get a soil test. And the PH meters aren't accurate. I have an expensive one and it will give me a reading of 7 but my soil tests at the lab give me a 6.
Another thought on the urea, I have saw bags of it at big box stores and it said "urea fertilizer derived from limestone". I'm not sure, but wouldn't that raise the PH? I was looking at them since my soil test said that I only need N, P is High, and K is a little high.
Not sure if anyone mentioned but its very important to not feed high Nitrogen to most (non-leafy) vegetables. Its OK to provide higher N in the first 2-3 weeks but switch to low N when flowering starts
Here is a link that might be useful: Why you need Low Nitrogen
It could be over-watered... so if thats the case will it turn the proper color when the soil dries out a bit?
That is the most common cause but while any new growth will be darker color the pale/yellow leaves usually die and fall off. Whether that particular plant will survive all depends on how much root damage has been done already.
Dave
I grow yard-long oriental beans along my fence and allow them to run up strings on the fence. They grow great and we eat them routinely. Transplant them without harming their roots. Pesticide and weed killer tends to evaperate over time; I would give it 6 months. To be safe you could create a raised garden and use garden soil you know has no pesticides/weed killer.
cheapheap,
The reason wet heat is better at killing spores than dry heat is probably due to the fact that the specific heat of water is greater than that of air. For example, if you put your hand in an oven that is at 250 degrees, it would not burn you right away, but if you stuck your hand in boiling water that is 250 degrees, it would burn you instantly. The boiling point of water is 212deg F.
Beeone made a good point about eating eggs for breakfast to be ok but how come composting it becomes harmful ? we are not eating the compost :) hehe
About the pressure -tempeature, wet and/or dry relationship.
What kills the bacteria is the temperature not pressure. Inside your car's tire there is twice as much pressure as in pressure cooker/canner but bacteria will/can live in it fine and produce spores too.
By pressurizing on heat we raise the boiling temperature of water ( aqueous medium). It does not matter wet or dry, solids or liquid parts. Given enough time temperature will be stabilized inside the vessel.
Depends on how long it will be until you can plant them. Normally they come with some sort of instructions such as keep dry and cool and out of direct sun until planting or some will say to wrap the roots in damp paper towlrs and store, etc. There were no instructions at all?? If not then I sure would contact the source and ask for instructions.
If all else fails you will need to plant each of them in potting mix - a 1 gallon container for each works well - and then transplant them ASAP.
Dave
I often have to store roots quite a while before planting. Asparagus roots are incredibly tough. I store mine in the crisper in the fridge until ready.