24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Bloomin_Onion(2/3)

Hi, could be a number of things from sun scald of the leaves perhaps to vitamin deficiency... that soil looks pretty dry... I can't really say. Have you fertilized? Do you water consistently? Ants like my bean plants too, as well as my sunflowers. Don't ask me why... no aphids from what I can see.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
elisa_z5

They don't look like they're dying -- and your harvest may not be affected by these leaf issues. I've had deer eat all the leaves off my bean plants, and they still sprouted new leaves and produced beans just fine. I do see a wilted leaf in the right of your squash photo -- is that another squash plant? Now THAT one looks like it's in trouble (hopefully it's just a weed you've pulled and let lie!)

Wait -- I just looked closer. Is that squash in a pot or in the ground? If it's in a pot, it may be stressed from not enough space (if that is a pot, it looks too small for the plant.)

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bart1(6/7 Northern VA)

Thanks folks!

How cured is cured? When the tops are completely dry?

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mav72(10b)

Yep completely dried leaves and dried layered bulb skins on the outside..

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Aaron_Wisconsin_(5)

I had similar issues with radish. I learned they need a lot water and cool temperature to grow well.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Where are you located? What garden zone? Please do include that info in the box provided.

It is far too late, soil is too warm in most of the country for radishes now. With heat and warm soil all you get is tops with little to no root development.

Dave

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Just because a pot is self-watering from below doesn't mean you can also water it from above and just let the water drain into the bottom of the pot. Put a couple inches of new mix in the bottom of the pot packing it into the wicking chambers in the pot, wet it well, set the root ball of the plant on it and pack fresh potting mix in all around it, water it well, firm down the new mix and add more if needed. Add more water from the top until it drains out of the drain hole provided. Then set the plant out of the direct sun for a day or so until it recovers from transplanting.

Mulch the top of the soil well and from now on just keep the bottom resivoir filled with water as needed.

Dave

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

hnycrk- NOW we're talkin! So, I get photobucket on my phone and also gardenweb onto the phone as an app? I think if I can get the basic idea down I can go to BB and they have a Samsung guy there all the time. We're also going to take an I-pad class, so I can do it from my new I-pad mini.
Getting closer

rhizo-the one that still (or again) lives with us knows the basics (texting, facebook, photos etc). The other one I don't see much and is always busy when she's around!

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
hnycrk(8a)

Yes there is a photo bucket app, don't know if there's a gardenweb app. I view the gardenweb forum on my phones Internet browser. Once you have your pictures on photobucket you can upload them here..

Example, just took this with my phone.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

Well, I'm on the West coast, so I can garden pretty much all year long.
But for fall/winter I like chard and kale. Both are very hardy.
Spinach seems to take so much to get a meal, I stick to the chard. It keeps coming back!
Lettuces, radish, snow peas.... once planted, asparagus is an early spring thing (the start of garden season!)
I don't go for peas, cause you have to plant SO many for just a couple of meals! Brussel sprouts grew great the first year, til I went out in the garden with my glasses ON and found that they were so infested with aphids they were beyond just spraying them down! (I wear my glasses in the garden now! LOL)
You mentioned forgetting about the broc, cauliflower and single harvest veges. IMHO, I usually grow some just to have them, but don't count on them for my winter veges. Just from time to time. If you're together enough (which I am NOT!) to plant a few seeds each week to space out the timing....MAYBE, but ,as you said you only have a small area to plant in!
You might want to just concentrate on things you can can/preserve/freeze with your small area, or think about getting some more space in a community garden to expand. I have over an acre, but my garden consists of 4 4x8s, 2 3x6s, 2 3x3sin ground raised beds, and a couple of new raised up 3x8x1s.
Contact your county extension office (or go online) to find a planting guide! You can also check out the Harvest forum to get some ideas on what to do with your veges!
Personally, I use a FOODSAVER which is a vaccum sealer system!
And I go on! Nancy

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
msmorningsong(SW FL 10A)

Straight from the pages of 'Rodales Garden Answers' book....

Broccoli: Fresh eating: 5 to 10 plants per person
(One plant can produce 2lbs. of main heads & sideshoots)

Brussels Sprouts: For fresh eating, plant 5 to 10 plants per person

Cauliflower: Grow 5 plants per person, twice that for winter preservation.

Collards: Grow 3 to 5 plants per person

Kale: 2 to 5 plants per person.

Mustard Greens: Not listed

Spinach: 10 plants per person per planting.

Turnips: A few feet of row per person per planting.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rodales garden Answers Book @ Amazon

This post was edited by MsMorningSong on Sat, Jul 12, 14 at 10:31

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
planterjeff(7b Grant Park Atlanta)

wertach, it seems you and I have some things in common!

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
wertach zone 7-B SC

I'm glad that I'm not the only one!

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
gmatx zone 6

You might try shading the row where you plant your beets by laying a 1"x4" board down on it for a few days after you plant. Be sure you check daily and when you begin to see signs of the seeds germinating, remove the board. That should help the soil to be slightly cooler and will help keep it moist to aid germination.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Cobarchie

Thanks for the info and the advice with the beets. I figured I'd just give it a shot and see what happens; it's just nice to know if it would be a complete waste of time before I tried it.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sandpapertongue(7a VA)

Definitely not chard. Might be pokeweed.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
farmerdill

Poke weed

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jim_1 Central Illinois(5b)

My experience with Peter Rabbit is that there is a bite, not a nibble. It also appears to be less tender than what my Peter Rabbit would prefer.

Peter has nibbled on my green beans, topped two dill plants, topped one of my okra and, of course the peas and lettuce. Nothing as dense as a cuke.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Kay17jan

I have a fenced yard, and rabbit and squirrels are the only ones I have seen here...

All my tomato plants are eaten that is what bothers me more, and this is the only thing I have to show, since the tomatoes and it's leaves are all gone and vanished!!

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Without seeing the plant can't say for sure but when mine do it I just cut off the cracked part and the rest regrows fine.

Dave

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
lkzz(7b)

If the split isn't due to the Squash Vine Borer (which you could pull out of the stalk with tweezers or inject the stalk with BT) - you can bury the split area with dirt.

Here is a link that might be useful: Squash Vine Borer in Zucchini Stalk

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
SwampGarden

Hey thanks and I read some follow up discussions on this topic, too.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jim_1 Central Illinois(5b)

Root crops are better than other crops. I have harvested carrots in December and January (nicely mulched after the first freeze).

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
planatus(6)

Yesterday I planted a handful of potatoes I'd had greening up since May, waiting for midsummer space to open up. I use the little reds for this because they are such willing producers under all kinds of conditions. In rainy years late blight will melt down the fall potatoes, which is a substantial risk in my area so I keep the planting small.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
elisa_z5

Thanks for the ideas on late plantings.
I just dug up a row of early red potatoes, only to find that the voles had eaten lots of them. They had also produced leafing green seed potatoes on their stems (maybe in response to the vole damage?) They are 60 day potatoes, so I'm excited about planting a bed of them again now. Good way to (hopefully) get my money's worth from the expensive early seed potatoes!

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

It's normal.

Rodney

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
elisa_z5

Normally, the flower rotting is normal--it serves its purpose to pollinate the fruit and then rots and falls off.
If the fruit is rotting when the squash is still small, then as Peter says, it's because the fruit didn't get pollinated so it is dying.
What you have to do is, in the morning when the flower opens on the female (the fruit) pollinate it with pollen from an open male flower.

If you're getting rot when the squash is bigger, then I don't know what is going on.

    Bookmark    
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

It might be blossom end rot. How big is the squash when it starts molding/rotting?

Rodney

    Bookmark