24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening


Indescriminate spraying is never a recommended course of action. Know what is causing the damage first, then spray for that particular pest/fungus/disease. Or if you know for certain that a fungus/disease is prevalent in your area you can start a preventative spraying program.
In the case of your cucumbers, I'd bet that it's cucumber beetles transmitting bacterial wilt to your plants. Nothing you can do about the wilt once your plants have it but you can control the beetles. A search here will pull up a lot of info on them.
Rodney

The drip rate is quite often. Faster than you might expect. I don't have a number but it is not a steady flow. A couple a second possibly.
The tape you purchased is rated at 40 gallons per hour per one hundred feet. Usual working pressure is 8-10 psi. If the pressure is higher it will put out more water. Max working pressure is 15 psi. At 10 psi each emitter will put out 0.30 gallon per hour. If the drip tape does not lay close to level the rate will vary.
I would suggest just getting a 10 psi regulator so you don't have to keep adjusting to get the flow right.
Here is a link that might be useful: Aqua-Traxx Drip Tape



And a third vote for completely normal in Red Russian.
I love this kale. If you leave a few plants to go to seed you will never need to sow it again. To get a new row I cut some old flower stems with the pods on and lay them along newly sown pea rows to keep the cats off the fresh earth. By the time the peas are finished and cut down (NOT pulled) there will be a row of Red Russian seedlings in their place using the nitrogen from the pea roots to get started in life. They just need thinning and there you go.


Gardenweb is good because of the people and they content they create. The layout, search engine, and relationship with the site owners is terrible IMO.
Some of the guys who like tropical fruits started their own forum due to lack or response to feedback from GW regarding this site. Waiting for the day that happens with vegetables :)

All right, I hate to do this but I do have a complaint (my previous comment wasn't meant as a complaint, it was a solution to an issue). My complaint is that entire threads are gone/missing. None of the other stuff that has been mentioned bothers me but the missing pages are frustrating. I was just reading a thread from 2002 on the Garden Experiments Forum about preventing fungus issues with corn meal. In that thread there were links to other GardenWeb discussions relevant to the topic and when I clicked those links it goes to a missing files page that says "Oops! Sorry, this page isn't available."
Rodney

Concur. With those varieties, the worst scenario is that the Silver Queen will cross pollinate with the Incredible and end up a bi-color. As lazy gardens stated field corn cross pollination will adversely affect sweet. Even worse are super sweets (SH2) which will have the consistency of rubber when cross pollinated with regular corn.

Technically, it probably is too late but if you have the right mindset that you probably won't get a lot of melons but want to experiment, I say go for it. If not, you could go for another crop that grows faster that you love just as much. I remember seeing a woman, on a garden show, who did plant her garden late because she had recently moved and she had a great garden. She lived in 5a or 5b. I believe she started right before July 1st. You never know, it might be a warmer fall. I planted a few things late last year because I had a similar situation as you did where an extra plot was abandoned. I got lots of zukes but the winter squashes just didn't make it in time. Still, it was a fun learning experience.

This is essentially a duplicate post. Dave gave a good answer on your other one.
Rodney
Here is a link that might be useful: is corn a thirsty plant?!?!


Dave: If the OP is on the coast, there's no problem with lettuce, except maybe a couple times a year when the famed Santa Anas come. And we "shouldn't" see any more until Late Sept/Oct. I say shouldn't because this year we got some in the Spring, which is a rarity.
Kevin



I grow trellised/tall plants in the same beds with shorter ones. I just make sure the trellised ones are not planted on the south side of the bed.
Forget the 3 sisters idea. It doesn't work for many reasons that are discussed in the many previous threads here about it.
But yes, IF you can plant so that the okra section of the bed doesn't shade the melon section - depends on how your bed lays in relationship to the sun position it could work.
You'd still have the different water and nutrient needs of the plants to contend with so separate them as much as possible.
Dave