23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

I have a question:

It has been said that PM spores are air born. Does it mean that the are not in the soil from previous season. If it is brought by the wind, where do they come from?

About milk/water spray:
I have used it in the past and will use it again. Some people add baking soda to it to: HOW MUCH BS do you add to be on the safe side and not to kill your plants? What the baking soda do ?

Seysonn: PM needs live tissue to survive, so I imagine it comes from plants that carry the spores but don't exactly exhibit symptoms. Trees, shrubs, bushes, I imagine.

Regarding Baking soda--- I've used it in the past but like most remedies, it isn't really effective if symptoms are already present. Never used it with milk though. I'm using Potassium bicarbonate now. it seems to do a much better job...available at wine shops and beer brew shops(got to shop around though). As with other home remedies( sodium and potassium bicarbonates, milk, etc), the idea is to change the ph of the foliage to a level that is unfavorable for the spores to thrive.

Kevin

I was told hat you needed to have 3 to 4 at a time for the cross polliation

Not true. Whoever or whatever told you that doesn't know gardening. And eggplant are self-pollinating anyway.

what other veggies need to be in a group and not ust a single plants??

Just as Rodney said above - none need to be but some will benefit from having more than one planted nearby. Of course there aren't very many vegetables where you would normally plant only one.

Dave

PS: and yes minnie it is quite aggravating. Especially when it is preached like gospel by some disreputable sources.

Either it is misinformation or lack of information. Plants group of nightshade family are self pollinating which includes eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, TOMATILLOES. I have heard a lot of people saying that you need more than one tomatillo plant to get fruits from them. I have experimented it not just once but twice, and am convinced that tomatillo is just like tomato and peppers and eggplants, self pollinating. In both cases I gardened in locations that there was no home gardens nearby, not much bee activities either. Last year my tomatillo plant burst into lanterns in late August while it was blooming since late May. Like the guy in I Love Lucy show used to say " Wa' happen ?".. hehe

At my house the north side is the spot that gets the most sun due to trees/buildings that shade the south side for most of the day. I grow plenty of vegetables with what I've got, which is fairly similar to you (sunlight hours-wise anyways). 6ish hours for 4 months (~120 days) I would imagine to be enough.

But like someone else said, the summer's heat may be a problem. Of course that's a pretty easy problem to handle by using the material used for row covers as a buffer and finding what cultivars are locally grown and proven in that environment. I've never been to Spain so I don't know what it's like, but I have been to Iraq and they grow plenty of vegetables in 120*F, so I know it can be done.

trained morello cherries, currants, strawberries, saladings, herbs

We've had the most bizarre weather here in No California this year!
2nd year of drought! Only about 2-3" when we are used to about 25" by this time and more to come!
We've been having lovely daytime weather (60-70) but had 2-3 weeks of freezing, as low as 19*! (remember, we're in California!)
I'm actually thinking of making a mini greenhouse to get things started early!
Everyone is starting on water saving. but we're on a well, which is doing fine!)
I'm chomping at the bit to start things going, but I'll have to wait a couple of weeks to get started! Nancy

I'm probably going to go ahead and just plan as normal no matter what long range forecasts call for. Start getting the tender plants out in the middle of May. The cold weather stuff will just have to go out in March/April when it seems about right. The weather varies so wildly here on the high plains that the only way many things survive is with the protection of tunnels or cold frames.

Just put up another tunnel last weekend. Mostly it's just helping thaw the ground out now. Surprisingly the lettuce I planted back in October is still alive in that area although quite small. I put a whole variety of seed in that bed it'll be interesting to see if some of it germinates.

I'm still eating spaghetti squash picked last September. Most of them are about 2.5-3.0 lbs. Three hill got me about 12-14 squashes. I just cooked one, and got 1.5 lbs of squash out of it. I'm not generally a fan of winter squash, but I do eat the spaghetti variety.

I have to say that I think the idea that spaghetti squash can replace pasta doesn't make much sense to me. I tried it with tomato sauce, and it just didn't work. I just eat it as a side dish - no sauces, but maybe herbs/seasonings. In spite of the fact that it kind of looks like spaghetti, it's still a winter squash, and tastes like it.

I agree with jonfrum that spaghetti squash tastes like winter squash when ripe. If you want it to taste more like spaghetti, pick and use it before it is ripe (after it reaches full size but before the skin hardens).

It will still flake out in somewhat noodle-like strands (not as long as when ripe) when steamed, but will have a much less pronounced flavor more like summer squash. Great with spaghetti sauce at that stage. Over-grown but unripe trombocino squash can also be used this way.

For the most part fruiting crops will not produce heavily or even normally, most likely. However, did you take into account that trellised crops can get very tall and perhaps catch more sun than will be at ground level?

Thats a good point pnbrown. I think I would get a bit more sun for the fruting crops if I added a few vertical feet.

Thanks tripleione, I have Dark Lolla Rossa on my list. :-) Also Skyphos.

Thanks for pointing me to Wild Garden Seeds, mauirose, I'll check it out.

Skyphos was also listed among varieties that handle cold temps well. There are so many varieties on the market that one needs to try them to determine which characteristics they porefer. I like romaine ( over leaf, reg. or oakleaf) types but there are some people who dispise them. Also the bibb types are a little more crisp and can hold better in your frig than many leaf types.

Of the red leaf varieties Cherokee is attractive and handles summer heat well. The Red Incised in Johnny's Salanova Foundation blend is also one to try. For Romaine types Annapolis and Outredgeous are about as dark as a red can get. I also have liked Cimmaron, Red Cash, Rubane and Spock. You just need to try them all.

For the digital camera, you'd most likely need a micro usb to USB cable. Chances are you would have gotten one with the camera, but maybe you lost it or it's in your house somewhere or it was a camera that didn't come with one. If you don't have one of those, they are only a few dollars. You could use photobucket if you have an account, but if you don't have an easy way to put the pictures on your computer directly from the iPad/camera/phone, you could email yourself.

If you have a Mac computer, plug the iPad in and go to iPhoto.You can go here for details instructions for an iPad or iPhone or iPod touch. http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4083

If you email yourself your photos, or put them on the computer, you can simply attach the photo here, or post a link to the photobucket photo.

For importing photos from your Galaxy phone, you can read these instructions. http://www.samsung.com/us/support/supportOwnersHowToGuidePopup.do?howto_guide_seq=7053&prd_ia_cd=N0000005&map_seq=48202

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Android phones like the galaxy typically have a way to automatically upload them somewhere. Maybe Google plus or drop box. You can also link from one of those to here.

Most container growers fertilize on a regular basis throughout the growing season. Nutrients leach out of the container every time you water so the so-called "feeds for 3 months" ferts are actually good for only 1/2 that time at best.

By insisting on only mixing in a granular fertilizer up front they get a high N blast and then little to nothing the rest of the season. Thus your big plants with little to no fruit. Plus the plants are micronutrient deprived.

Otherwise there is no reason why peppers and eggplants require any different soil mix. They are all grown in the same soil in an in-ground garden and many container growers are quite successful with them using the exact same mix as in all their other containers.

Peppers do however require a very different level of nutrients and a different watering regimen than some other vegetables.

Assuming the manure added to your second mix has been well composted first as it should be then it shouldn't cause them any problems.

Dave

You're posting in the wrong forum......

I use a half-barrel 25-30 gallon to grow my eggplant..... Orlando and generally Black Beauty.....6' tall by season end

Osmocote is a brand....they make many different formulas.....visit a local Feed Store or search online......

Over on the CONTAINER forum some people reccomend Dynamite

I make my Pepper "511" with much less PEAT.....with heavy summer rains I want my mix to drain to keep the peppers happy

doug

Here is a link that might be useful: Container Forum

Both Territorial and Reimer have seeds for Beaver Dam.

Thanks Sunnibel! :-)

Seysonn,

True, even though several of my dogs are large. But for garden, non decorative purposes to me it makes sense to put up something that can do double duty as a dog barrier and vegetable support for all sorts of veggies, beans and others. I even thought of cattle panels because they are taller and strong, might even decide to use them.

One thing you may consider is lacing 6-8 feet stakes through your fence wire at 1 foot intervals. This will allow the beans to climb higher and the fence will support the poles. Lace them through the wire and into the ground a few inches. Connect the tops with a small diameter cord and then use twine to tie the cord to the top of the fence. Works great!

Well, I killed my jalapeno plant last year. Basically a newbie mistake & put it into shock. Before that, I was getting some great jalapenos.

My Tabasco & Poblano plants were gorgeous & growing & producing like champs.

My big Jim was a slow grower & then exploded with pellets but too late cuz I had to pick them early when they were small cuz winter was around the corner.

I'm trying to over winter my big jim, poblano, & Tabasco this year. Well see if they grow back!

ThatâÂÂs a LOT of peppers, Little Minnie! lol
I appreciate your notes on what youâÂÂve grown that you liked. Just in time for me to put my seed order in this week. I had Odessa Market on my list and had taken it off to make room for another, but itâÂÂs going back on.

IâÂÂm ordering from FEDCO and they didnâÂÂt have a number of the others. So far, IâÂÂm ordering, Carmen, Jimmy NardelloâÂÂs, Gilboa, and now Odessa Market. I donâÂÂt have the room for a lot more, maybe 10 plants.

I had a pretty good experience with my peppers last year. âÂÂGypsyâ grew well and produced more than the others. I had âÂÂRed BeautyâÂÂ, âÂÂOrange Blazeâ and âÂÂGolden California WonderâÂÂ. âÂÂRed Beautyâ and âÂÂOrange Blazeâ did well, but I would not say spectacular.

I wish we could use hot peppers, but theyâÂÂre not a frequent addition to meals here. Guacamole and Chili are about it. And we keep those mild.

Lori, if you have never worked with mushrooms before, I suggest starting with the plugs. To work with spores you need a sterile environment and patience. With plugs you can immediately start growing the mycelium in a suitable medium.

That said, if you get some big, mature portobellos and make spore prints in a sterile place, you have your spores. Mycologists who don't have clean rooms often work in an oven that's been hot enough to bake bread and allowed to cool unopened. Until the mycelium starts running, everything must be kept sterile or you get green mold instead of mushroom mycelium.

Planatus -

Thanks so much for the info and advice. I was under the impression that a successful inoculation could occur if the spores were added directly from the syringe into the substrate. Please forgive my ignorance.

Any recommendations for substrate? Also, are the plugs specifically for growing in logs or stumps, or can they also be used indoors with a substrate?

Thanks again. ;)

Start them early enough to grow without 24/7. They will not be growing in 24/7 when they are in the real world.

I took cuttings from the garden for the past two falls and rooted then in water for a few days, then stuck them in the greenhouse for the winter. They grew LONG and leggy, lost their leaves, etc. But when spring was near, it was a simple matter of cutting the stems into about 8 inch lengths, root in water for about a week, and they were ready for the garden. Tons of them..... I had a fine crop of sweetpotatoes, growing as ground cover under the tomatoes. Think I will move them this year to the orchard through the wood chips.... I better put some in the raised beds as well, as I want a good crop again. They are wonderful!!!