23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Just a quick follow-up report. A month ago I took the tulle netting off to see what would happen. Today I just harvested two normal-looking, full-sized butternut squashes that got started after the tulle came off. So I think the lesson here is that for this particular variety at least, if you allow normal fertilization, you'll get normal fruit. If you don't, the plant will go parthenocarpahtic, and try its best to do something, fruit-wise.

I have not yet cut open the new squash, but I suspect they'll be full of seeds.

    Bookmark   August 18, 2013 at 10:50AM
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

OK, here's closure. We ate the normally pollinated squash (actually a week ago, but I just got around to this post today), and the squash were PERFECTLY normal butternuts. Large size, and full of seeds. See photo.

So the same butternut squash plants that will go parthenocarpathic, if you keep the pollinators off (small size, no seeds), are quite happy to produce normally (large zie, lots of seeds) if you let the pollinators back in.

Pretty neat. Let that be a lesson to those using row covers, without pollinating manually.

    Bookmark   September 9, 2013 at 8:34PM
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Mark(Oregon, Zone 8)

I agree about too much water, but am not sure they need high nitrogen fertilizer. Too much Nitrogen now will just put on rampant top growth and it's really too late for another fruit set anyway. I'd recommend some well balanced fish emulsion on a light dosage (I prefer organic fertilizer). And let the soil dry out just a little between each watering.

Go ahead and pick the peppers that are fully orange, that's what you are going for. All peppers ripen from green to red/yellow/orange sooner or later. Thats when they are the sweetest and the best to eat. Once you pick some peppers the plants will likely grow a bit more.

As far as the ones that are rotting, you can cut them off and eat any salvageable pepper from them. It's common to lose some peppers from blossom end rot.

Good luck,
-Mark

    Bookmark   September 9, 2013 at 11:11AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

About picking, agree with Mark. The yellow ones are not going to get any bigger. So there no point keeping thenm on the bush., Unless you except and want then to turn red !

    Bookmark   September 9, 2013 at 7:30PM
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Mark(Oregon, Zone 8)

Pritavit is sold by Osborne seed co., and probably others too. It's an F1 hybrid so I can't save seeds unfortunately.

    Bookmark   September 9, 2013 at 1:14AM
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zzackey(8b GA)

Thanks! I'll check them out.

    Bookmark   September 9, 2013 at 4:10PM
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captaininsano

I will try the hot pepper approach what dilution would work best.

    Bookmark   September 9, 2013 at 2:33PM
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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Has anyone used the scarecrow sprinklers against squirrels? I can see frightening a deer, raccoon, possum, or cat with one. But squirrels are pretty resilient to water. In their tree-top nests, they get rained on all the time. So I have to wonder if they'd just laugh off a scarecrow sprinkler. Bath time!

    Bookmark   September 9, 2013 at 2:39PM
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Mark(Oregon, Zone 8)

I'm not sure, but in the linked article it sounds like they are talking about "flower sprouts", the somewhat new veg that Johnnys seed company is pushing.

The only reason why you would cut the tops off regular brussels sprouts is to promote even sizing of the sprouts for full stem harvest.

Of course, you can eat some leaves if you want but I personally think kale is much tastier....

-Mark

    Bookmark   September 9, 2013 at 10:57AM
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florauk(8/9)

No, Mark, I assure you they talking about Brussels Sprouts. They are so ubiquitous here that you only need to say 'sprouts' and everyone knows you mean Brussels Sprouts. The tops are cut off after the sprouts have been harvested. As I said, they are sold as a separate green vegetable in their own right here in the UK. There is no tradition here of cutting off the tops to promote growth, only to harvest them as greens.

Until you have tried sprout tops I would not dismiss them. We eat them a lot in winter - they are tender and delicious, not tough like the lower leaves, which we do not eat. If you Google 'Sprout tops' you will get a lot of hits for recipes.

Here is a link that might be useful: More on sprout tops

    Bookmark   September 9, 2013 at 2:02PM
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gardenlen(s/e qld aust)

we leave all roots in especially legumes, it all adds and all helps.

len

Here is a link that might be useful: lens garden page

    Bookmark   September 8, 2013 at 4:02PM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I chop up all the residue...tops and bottoms and mix them into the soil a bit along with any amendments....and perhaps plant a cover crop if growing time permits. Things are really nice by spring planting time.

    Bookmark   September 8, 2013 at 10:24PM
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yukkuri_kame(Sunset 19 / USDA 9)

same plant

    Bookmark   September 8, 2013 at 3:33AM
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yukkuri_kame(Sunset 19 / USDA 9)

last photo

    Bookmark   September 8, 2013 at 3:34AM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Well like I said, I haven't tried using tulle. I was just giving a suggestion based on old posts.

disappointed in row covers/will netting work for cabbage moths?
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0422501923825.html

French Tulle Netting
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0505305828412.html

Help me kill the Flea Beetles eating my Eggplants!
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0620524021153.html

The last two links say that using tulle keeps out flea beetles.

Rodney

    Bookmark   September 7, 2013 at 8:48AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

French or Nylon tulle comes in many shades of color and tightness.Tighter ones can keep all insects out, even mosquitoes. So you wouldn't want to cover cucurbita with it because you need pollinators.

    Bookmark   September 8, 2013 at 2:08AM
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Tex_86

Thank you guys so much! I can deal with ugly potatoes! :)

    Bookmark   September 7, 2013 at 11:39AM
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nc_crn

Next season try (or tell the dudes planting to try) scab resistant varieties...especially if lowering the pH isn't an option.

It won't 100% wipe out the issue, but it helps moderately to greatly lessen scab depending upon variety selection.

    Bookmark   September 7, 2013 at 6:25PM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

It's probably due to inconsistent watering or too much rain. Lots of veggies/fruits can have this problem.

Rodney

    Bookmark   September 7, 2013 at 12:16PM
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Dommt(Montana)

We have had a dry summer, but I do have a sprinkler system that waters daily for 10 minutes or so. I just picked about a dozen this am and only 1 was cracked. We'll see.

    Bookmark   September 7, 2013 at 12:43PM
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ltilton

You use those same planters for lots of crops, don't you?

Did you make them yourself?

    Bookmark   September 6, 2013 at 2:06PM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

I've used them for potatoes, beans, peas, and cukes. They came with the house. Just cleaned them up a bit and painted them. They're pretty old and made of pressure treated wood. Very heavy, not sure I'd recommend them.

    Bookmark   September 7, 2013 at 9:35AM
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jrslick (North Central Kansas, Zone 5B)

Tokyo Bekana?

    Bookmark   September 6, 2013 at 11:23PM
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ceth_k(11)

@ jrslick : That is absolutely right! I eat this veggie all my life and still don't know it has a japanese name. Thank you very much jrslick!

    Bookmark   September 7, 2013 at 8:32AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

In the southern zones , You have to plant them real early. Like in GA, I use to plant them 4 to 6 weeks before last frost and would dig them sometimes in july. That would like 110 days or so. Then you can also do a fall planting, Like late July.

    Bookmark   September 6, 2013 at 9:52PM
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ltilton

Climate is a limitation, fersure. But then, it presents a challenge!

    Bookmark   September 6, 2013 at 10:00PM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

It probably is SVB. To really be sure, you need to look closely at the vine for holes and frass.

Rodney

    Bookmark   September 6, 2013 at 6:43PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

IME damage such as in your picture is more likely to be squash bugs rather than SVB. SVB damage kills the vine itself. Squash bug damage is more leaf oriented than vine oriented.

But it is easy enough to determine with close examination.

Dave

    Bookmark   September 6, 2013 at 6:52PM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

And for another example, yews are deadly poisonous to us in all their parts. Deer love em.

    Bookmark   September 6, 2013 at 6:50AM
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albert_135(Sunset 2 or 3)

My wife puts hot peppers and garlic on everything she feeds me. Is she trying to poison the dear [sic] ? ed - 5/4/14

This post was edited by albert_135 on Thu, May 8, 14 at 17:47

    Bookmark   September 6, 2013 at 6:03PM
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