23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

I agree about too much water, but am not sure they need high nitrogen fertilizer. Too much Nitrogen now will just put on rampant top growth and it's really too late for another fruit set anyway. I'd recommend some well balanced fish emulsion on a light dosage (I prefer organic fertilizer). And let the soil dry out just a little between each watering.
Go ahead and pick the peppers that are fully orange, that's what you are going for. All peppers ripen from green to red/yellow/orange sooner or later. Thats when they are the sweetest and the best to eat. Once you pick some peppers the plants will likely grow a bit more.
As far as the ones that are rotting, you can cut them off and eat any salvageable pepper from them. It's common to lose some peppers from blossom end rot.
Good luck,
-Mark



Has anyone used the scarecrow sprinklers against squirrels? I can see frightening a deer, raccoon, possum, or cat with one. But squirrels are pretty resilient to water. In their tree-top nests, they get rained on all the time. So I have to wonder if they'd just laugh off a scarecrow sprinkler. Bath time!

I'm not sure, but in the linked article it sounds like they are talking about "flower sprouts", the somewhat new veg that Johnnys seed company is pushing.
The only reason why you would cut the tops off regular brussels sprouts is to promote even sizing of the sprouts for full stem harvest.
Of course, you can eat some leaves if you want but I personally think kale is much tastier....
-Mark

No, Mark, I assure you they talking about Brussels Sprouts. They are so ubiquitous here that you only need to say 'sprouts' and everyone knows you mean Brussels Sprouts. The tops are cut off after the sprouts have been harvested. As I said, they are sold as a separate green vegetable in their own right here in the UK. There is no tradition here of cutting off the tops to promote growth, only to harvest them as greens.
Until you have tried sprout tops I would not dismiss them. We eat them a lot in winter - they are tender and delicious, not tough like the lower leaves, which we do not eat. If you Google 'Sprout tops' you will get a lot of hits for recipes.
Here is a link that might be useful: More on sprout tops

we leave all roots in especially legumes, it all adds and all helps.
len
Here is a link that might be useful: lens garden page

Well like I said, I haven't tried using tulle. I was just giving a suggestion based on old posts.
disappointed in row covers/will netting work for cabbage moths?
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0422501923825.html
French Tulle Netting
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0505305828412.html
Help me kill the Flea Beetles eating my Eggplants!
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0620524021153.html
The last two links say that using tulle keeps out flea beetles.
Rodney




In the southern zones , You have to plant them real early. Like in GA, I use to plant them 4 to 6 weeks before last frost and would dig them sometimes in july. That would like 110 days or so. Then you can also do a fall planting, Like late July.


IME damage such as in your picture is more likely to be squash bugs rather than SVB. SVB damage kills the vine itself. Squash bug damage is more leaf oriented than vine oriented.
But it is easy enough to determine with close examination.
Dave






Just a quick follow-up report. A month ago I took the tulle netting off to see what would happen. Today I just harvested two normal-looking, full-sized butternut squashes that got started after the tulle came off. So I think the lesson here is that for this particular variety at least, if you allow normal fertilization, you'll get normal fruit. If you don't, the plant will go parthenocarpahtic, and try its best to do something, fruit-wise.
I have not yet cut open the new squash, but I suspect they'll be full of seeds.
OK, here's closure. We ate the normally pollinated squash (actually a week ago, but I just got around to this post today), and the squash were PERFECTLY normal butternuts. Large size, and full of seeds. See photo.
So the same butternut squash plants that will go parthenocarpathic, if you keep the pollinators off (small size, no seeds), are quite happy to produce normally (large zie, lots of seeds) if you let the pollinators back in.
Pretty neat. Let that be a lesson to those using row covers, without pollinating manually.