23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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Tks for taking the time and posting your tags
Hidesert, great link, just what I needed
yukkuri, never thought about growing Favas, going to go give it a try, after I locate some seeds.
McKenzie. This is my second year planting garlic in Early Sept, had a huge harvest this year. First attempt at Bush Beans, must say they are growing at lighting speed, have not had any temps over 100 for several weeks now. looks like we will most diffently have a fall crop of bush beans.
This was my first experience and posting for this site, what a wealth of knowledge and information, glad I found it.
Cheers
Donald

I'm guessing the favas can be planted late fall in zone 8, and grow slowly through through the winter for an early spring crop.
John Jeavons & the biointensive folks are big on fava - reason being they are great compost crops. You get nitrogen fixation, and they also create a fair amount of root & stalk that adds biomass to your soil.

generally speaking, sweet potatoes like water. Slips will thrive for a long time in a gallon jug of water as long as they have warmth and sunlight.
They will like a thorough soaking every once in a while. But waterlogged soils, not good. Drip irrigation is good.
SP vines are quick to wilt, but quick to recover.

Sprouts are far more productive indoors. After much selection, I grow sunflower shoots in compost trays in a sunny window sill, and broccoli and fenugreek in jars (no medium). Shoots take two weeks, sprouts one week. My biggest problem is keeping the bag of compost in the garage unfrozen, since I use fresh compost for every new batch of shoots.
I doubt that root crops can be grown successfully indoors. You need more than one foot of soil. Root crops can be eaten through the winter, but they need to be in the root cellar, which in my case is totes full of moist sand in the garage. Carrots and parsnips dug up during a thaw are the best tasting root crops, better than anything you can grow indoors.

I tried posting on the growing under lights forum, but it's been kind of dead over there.
Well I didn't necessarily mean posting, just reading all the huge amount of info that is already there about gardening under lights.
But yes it is slow right now on that forum as it is out of season. It will pick up there after outdoor harvest time in mid to late October.
Dave


I have a community garden where I grow my potatoes and leaving them in the ground is not an option. I dug mine a couple of weeks ago and they were in milk crates until I could get them stored correctly. I thought the milk crate allowed for good air circulation. I was going to try the newspaper layering technique but before I could get that done, about 10 potatoes rotted out of about 100 lbs. Right now, I washed most of the potatoes and have them drying on a screen on saw horses in my garage. I am going to let them dry well for a couple of days and then go through them again to check for any with signs of rot. We will see how this works.
So what do you do with the potatoes that have been next to the rotten potatoes and have that nasty rotten potato liquid on them?


Try it. I am in zone 6 near Cape Cod and I am still harvesting sweet lettucce by cutting back old plants of black seeded simpson and Paris Island Cos. I must admit that my table is supplemented by area farm stand lettuce as well. In your area, I would suggest planting some new lettuce in a cold frame for fall/winter harvest. Sometimes Jack Frost beats you in the game but it is a lot of fun playing.
Good Luck

Yes, I definitely have cut bitter lettuce to the roots (just cut off, no need to dig up and replant) and gotten sweet lettuce growing from the old plant. Especially now that the weather is cooling down, this could work very nicely. Watering well reduces the bitter factor, too.

GW has a FL Gardening board, btw...it seems to be well used.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/flgard/
Here is a link that might be useful: GW FL Gardening Forum


To me, some edamame actually tastes better when ripe. I try to pick at the first sign of pods yellowing, or when the first leaves in the row begin to yellow... particularly if the variety has seeds with colors other than green, since later harvest will bring out those colors.
But if they get riper than that, then as long as the pods are not yet brown, they are still usable. The beans from the yellow pods will not be as sweet, but you can use them like butterbean limas.

Garden huckleberry is a Solanum species,.
See this page -- has an image for garden huckleberry
http://www.tradewindsfruit.com/content/garden-huckleberry.htm
To my eye, the leaves are different
- garden huckleberry rounded or blunt at tips; lots more images if you do a web image search
- Leaves in image from OP are pointed.
As said earlier, don't eat until 100 percent certain.
Here is a link that might be useful: search for garden huckleberry

Yeah a frequent discussion over on the Growing Tomatoes forum here. More common with some varieties than others but basically it is caused by over watering/heavy rains during development.
Preventing splitting is one of the primary reasons for picking at color break and ripening indoors out of the sun and heavy water exposure.
Lots of discussions about it on that forum.
Dave




Nope, its a cluster of eggs. And we don't have any lizards here. Someone on the Allium forum said it was probably onion maggot eggs.
Not eggs of onion maggot. Try again.