23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Try it. I am in zone 6 near Cape Cod and I am still harvesting sweet lettucce by cutting back old plants of black seeded simpson and Paris Island Cos. I must admit that my table is supplemented by area farm stand lettuce as well. In your area, I would suggest planting some new lettuce in a cold frame for fall/winter harvest. Sometimes Jack Frost beats you in the game but it is a lot of fun playing.
Good Luck
Yes, I definitely have cut bitter lettuce to the roots (just cut off, no need to dig up and replant) and gotten sweet lettuce growing from the old plant. Especially now that the weather is cooling down, this could work very nicely. Watering well reduces the bitter factor, too.
GW has a FL Gardening board, btw...it seems to be well used.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/flgard/
Here is a link that might be useful: GW FL Gardening Forum
To me, some edamame actually tastes better when ripe. I try to pick at the first sign of pods yellowing, or when the first leaves in the row begin to yellow... particularly if the variety has seeds with colors other than green, since later harvest will bring out those colors.
But if they get riper than that, then as long as the pods are not yet brown, they are still usable. The beans from the yellow pods will not be as sweet, but you can use them like butterbean limas.
Garden huckleberry is a Solanum species,.
See this page -- has an image for garden huckleberry
http://www.tradewindsfruit.com/content/garden-huckleberry.htm
To my eye, the leaves are different
- garden huckleberry rounded or blunt at tips; lots more images if you do a web image search
- Leaves in image from OP are pointed.
As said earlier, don't eat until 100 percent certain.
Here is a link that might be useful: search for garden huckleberry
Yeah a frequent discussion over on the Growing Tomatoes forum here. More common with some varieties than others but basically it is caused by over watering/heavy rains during development.
Preventing splitting is one of the primary reasons for picking at color break and ripening indoors out of the sun and heavy water exposure.
Lots of discussions about it on that forum.
Dave
The holes look like those caused by tomato fruit worms/ corn earworms. They have bothered my tomatoes but not peppers. Both Spinosad and BT work well against these little monsters. Also go on daily egg patrols. The little eggs are laid near the small fruit on both sides of the leaves. To date, this year, I have kept them under control. Good luck to you.
Not sure what the coffee contributes to the mixture... I've used a similar formula for years, with just purified water (hard water tends to clog the sprayer). I also add rubbing alcohol to mine, it paralyses the bugs long enough for the soap solution to do its work. It works wonders on squash bugs, aphids, and ants, but you do need to cover the entire insect for it to work.
Soap solutions make great low-toxicity bug killers, but soap & oil can cause leaf burn on some vegetables. Using a potassium-based insecticidal soap (such as Safers) will reduce the likelihood of damage. If dish soap is used, you can rinse the leaves off after the bugs are dead, maybe 15 minutes after application.
So we are talking about cantaloupe rather than winter melons, muskmelons, bitter melons, watermelons, etc.
BIg difference. :)
This particular variety is a grey and has no netting.
From it's detailed description:
Neither early, high-yielding nor easy to tell when ripe, this true cantaloupe without netting ripens very slowly, a golden-tan color spreading from the blossom and becoming pebbly. Cut from the vine when the blossom end is soft and the color has changed halfway up the fruit, then allow to sit until you can no longer resist its alluring perfume. Some will split and must be consumed immediately and some will be duds. Overripe, though sometimes still good.
Dave
You can either put them right back in the ground or keep them in a cool dry place until you are ready to plant them. Either way will work. I always plant a mix of sizes, because after all you want the large ones for cooking, but you need the small ones to replant and keep your shallot bed producing big ones to cook with... :)
I have a community garden where I grow my potatoes and leaving them in the ground is not an option. I dug mine a couple of weeks ago and they were in milk crates until I could get them stored correctly. I thought the milk crate allowed for good air circulation. I was going to try the newspaper layering technique but before I could get that done, about 10 potatoes rotted out of about 100 lbs. Right now, I washed most of the potatoes and have them drying on a screen on saw horses in my garage. I am going to let them dry well for a couple of days and then go through them again to check for any with signs of rot. We will see how this works.
So what do you do with the potatoes that have been next to the rotten potatoes and have that nasty rotten potato liquid on them?
"So what do you do with the potatoes that have been next to the rotten potatoes and have that nasty rotten potato liquid on them?"
Wash them off and use first.