23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I don't have a lot of space for a garden so I want to use the space that I have efficiently. I get composted leaves from our transfer center in Fairfax, VA. It is beautiful compost, dark and loamy. I spread about a four inch layer over my garden in the late winter/very early spring. I then broadcast some granular ferts. ussually 10-10-10 or whatever I have on hand, over the compost. I then till the soil mixing it all up. After the next rain I till the soil again and prepare the beds for planting. We plant swiss chards, mustard greens, bush beans, yard-long beans, zucchini, egg plant, hot and sweet peppers, tomatoes and lettuce. I have also prepared a raised bed where I hope to have artichokes, if they survive the winter. Here is a picture of the chokes.
CentralCADad - just so you know the Growing from Seed forum here has all sorts of FAQs and info/tips/discussions on your questions.
You might be especially interested in all the discussions about the many problems with using peat pellets.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed forum
That is very impressive my next house I'll have to strive for something like that WOW.Thanks I normal use sun light and flos but behind our home a farmer that just changed over to apricot orchard gave me the light for free and next yr will be our biggest plant using transplants. We have an area that gets a little shade during the day and my hope is that maturing the plants more for that section and another area w/more shape types of flowers for shaded areas. We normally start seed directly into dirt but have used Pete pellets before we use our home garden to help w/Girl Scout troop (our 2 girls) and the others to learn many of life's lessons. We grow a lot of tomatoes and wild colored items like purple cauliflower,purple beans it keeps keep them interested in the long process of food production. I don't have the space so it's in the cold garage for them. With a heating pad and the hid light I thought would help keep the area a little warmer. The farmer said to keep the light close to the plants but watch for heat melting plastic domes feel the heats range w hand and adjust a little higher. You seem to have flos higher off the plants did I get bogus info? Were only growing around 60-70 plants and giving any extra startlings to the neighbors we have Paul Robeson tomatoes this yr.. Thanks for all the help I'll start late feb plant seeds every week there after under 12/12 light cycle and by march last frost long gone transplant them after hardening them off. And thank u I looked up Pete next next yr will change again. I tested soil yesterday and after adding organic matter some naturals frets and minerals I tested @7ph that should be good for multiple veggie varieties? Sorry so many questions we learned to flood the rows not allow the girls to directly spray the plants which they enjoy we had afew varieties wilt and some didn't recover.. Anyway thanks
Strangely it affected some plants but not others. The plant either had it, or didn't have it. Even plants of the same variety right next to each other, one had it, the other didn't. If it were apples, I would say they had russet at the top. It affected sweet peppers as well as hot. Thanks.
I agree with planatus. I have measured , the space between the top of hood and what you put on it, can get up to 92F. I cushion it a bit an put my germinating baggies on it. Another place is the top of a lamp shade, covered with a dish towel. With a fluorescent lamp it can get close to 90F up there. Again, you can control it by cushioning more. So far I have done about 10 test germination the way I mentioned. So no more heating mat for me.
I liked the taste of BCs Klondike Striped Blue Ribbon watermelon although it is kind of soft [not crispy]. I didn't do well with Moon and Stars. Granted, it was not in a best spot that year.
I prefer watermelons like Sangria, Raspa, Yellow Crimson, and Cooperstown [seedless]. I like Sugar Queen, Goddess, and Burpee Early Crenshaw for cantaloupes. All these are super delicious.
Would just go directly to Rupp's website. They're a great company and have been reliable ove r the years. Sometimes their minimal sized package is too big for me but often a pound of seeds from Rupp costs about the price of a packet from Burpee or Johnny's.
"I'm wondering if any of the varieties mentioned here are ones from which I can be successful saving seeds."
Reading back over this thread, I realize I drifted away from the original question in my last post. "Fortex" and "Emerite" are pole snap beans, not limas. I have, however, been able to save seed from both. "Fortex" is very slow to mature, and a bit of a challenge to get dry seed here.
Not sure of your location Creek-side, but I assume your climate is not much different that my East-central Wisconsin location. Chances are that unless foul weather prevents you from planting on time, you should be able to save seed from almost any commercially available edamame soybean. "Envy" and "Agate" (and "Cha Kura Kake", if you can find it) are early varieties; you are almost certain to get dry seed from them, even in less than perfect years. "Butterbean", "Shirofumi", and "Sayamusume" are later, and might be racing the frost for maturity some years... but I have saved seed from all of them successfully. The later varieties tend to have the largest seeds & heaviest yields.
Limas are more difficult (especially if direct seeded) for the reasons already given. Small-seeded bush varieties like "Henderson" and "Thorogreen" are the earliest, and probably the best bet to save seed from. Large-seeded bush varieties like "Fordhook 242" and "Burpee's Improved" are possible to save seed from (I have) but you might get very little - or none - in cool or wet years.
"Sieva" and "Carolina Red" are two of the earliest pole varieties, and the only two that are reliable here when direct seeded. If planted on time (June 1st for me) they should produce plenty of dry seed. Large-seeded pole limas are difficult to get seed from in our climate, at least on a reliable basis. However, most limas will (usually) give you a good crop - and at least some dry seed - if started early as transplants.
It's funny, when I was about 9 (MANY years ago) I planted an area of turnips, probably about 15' x 8'. Knew nothing about turnips, didn't even like them. Just had a packet of seeds from somewhere.
We had so many turnips that year. Didn't even harvest them all, just left them to rot.
This August's planting was 2 10' rows. We're hoping we'll get enough for a couple of meals from the ones still going.
August temps were in the high ninetys and hundreds, same with most of September. Even October was mostly 80s. We kept them watered, but no precipitation at all.
Guess we'll try again next year.
gary
There are also some tomato varieties that are grown specifically for storage, such as Long Keeper, Ruby Treasure, Winterkeeper, and Yellow Out Red. If you do a web search you will find directions for optimal storage conditions as well.
Peppers will store for a while in the fridge as well.
And then there are the veggies grown for storage in a cold cellar such as cabbage, potatoes, winter squash, sweet potatoes, etc.
Regarding the paper bag approach mentioned above... My comments are: 1) IME it works well. 2) I did not use a paper bag. Instead I individually wrapped each tomato in a piece of newspaper and put them in a single layer in a cardboard box. This approach made it easy to identify a tomato which spoiled and to then discard it before it contaminated the rest of the bunch.
I don't know where you're located but if you're anywhere in the North America, growth is going to be slow. Overwatering or fertilizing may be an issue though. For overwatering, that's easily fixed --- wait until you see the plant wilt before watering.
What are you using for ferts?
Is that particle board/plywood? The glues and chemicals used in processing can't be good for any soil.
Kevin
Thank you Donna for the info about ripening, and thank you for the list Farmerdill!! I'll have to order and try some of these this year.
Jay, your peppers are just lovely!
I think I'm putting Lilac and Tequila on the top of the list based on both of your recommendations.
Two possibilities come to mind. Black Rot or Souring. You can Google both for pics and info. I'd bet on Souring.
The way to decide between the two is the condition of the plants themselves. Black Rot also shows pronounced effects on the plants while Souring doesn't.
Personally, cooking/eating of the affected areas is NOT recommended and it should be removed before cooking so it doesn't affect the flavor of the rest of the potato.
Dave
Lol, Dave! I do my best to cut out the spots, but they sometimes seem to be forming under the surface where I can't see them, sometimes not until I've taken a bite. Or I miss a bit when cutting and don't notice. I'll search for those two when I have abit more time, thanks!