24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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sandysgardens(Zone 4 (MN))

Rhubarb should not be picked the first year it's transplanted - not just new plants but any transplants. They need to use their energy establishing their root system in their new home, and it takes the first year to really get it going. So with plants planted this year, just let them be, keep moist. The leafs will die back end of summer/fall; Leave them be and next spring clean up the dead leafs and you'll be rewarded with new rhubarb growth.

Next year follow the rule of picking no more than 1/3 of the plant, as previously suggested. I typically quit picking at the end of June or 1st half of July. They will need the remainder of summer to store up energy for winter..

Cut off any flower stalks that appear. If left on, the rhubarb will get woody.

Rhubarb typically doesn't like real hot weather. My sister has tried it several times in zone 6/7 with no luck with it coming back or it dies before end of 1st summer. They like cool and moist....

I have a 12ft+ row of red 'Martha Washington' rhubarb that I've had for 28 years at this house and for 8 years at prior house. Just picked some this am for my co-worker. She's bringing in rhubarb crisp tomorrow:)

Sandy

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melikeeatplants

Been growing well for me in 9b. I don't know the type but it's a green variety...

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Glad to hear you've got your answer. The link to the previous thread is below.

Rodney

Here is a link that might be useful: What cocoon?

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bcskye

I have posted my above post on the previous thread. Thank you.

Madonna

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Tent caterpillars that are striped yellow and black? It doesn't sound like tent caterpillars. But presumably you've looked at photos. To answer the other part of your question, no they aren't all related. At least not any more than all birds are the same. Various caterpillars favor different foods and have different degrees of "pest-ness", and plenty turn into wonderful butterflies and moths. Your cottony coccons could maybe be the work of the cabbage moth, especially if the corn is handy to the brassicas. Or it could be one of the untold hundreds of small moths and butterflies that go unidentified by most since they don't get up to anything bad in the garden.

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bcskye

Found out that the unidentified cocoon in my previous post is from the gypsy moth. Got my Purdue Extension newsletter today which had a picture of it as well as the history of the gypsy moth. Seems that our state has been hit with infestations of them this year.
Madonna

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

They are just some kind of fungi. Or tiny mushrooms?

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mav72(10b)

Yea, that's them... They usually leave older plants alone but they're a pain when direct seeding, growing soft fruit near the ground, or growing plants with tender leaves...

Good to hear that your plants are healthy.... Your plants are probably just good habitat for them bugs...

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

You can use them as fresh garlic greens (gallions). Do not expect any bulbs this year

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changingitup(8 PDX)

I planted some bulbs Jan 2013, didn't see anything so dug them up, at least I thought I did. This spring 2014 they were the first thing to pop up. The greens are tall, the base is thick and everything looks healthy above the soil. A friend just told me to wait for a little bulb to form at the top of the stem and then I'd know if they were good/ready? I was surprised to see them and can't wait to see if they are edible. Plant and experiment!

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lat0403

Oh, I get it. Cover as in frost blanket. Okra goes from bloom to maturity in about 3 days here. That's why I have to pick okra every. single. day. Ideally, you'd leave the pod to dry on the plant but I've never really paid attention to that timetable. You really just need the pod to be there long enough to get really big and woody. That's about a week, maybe two. You can cut the stem and dry the pod off the plant if you have to. I wouldn't leave it on the plant if it was about to freeze, even covered.

It shouldn't be a problem though. Just bag the first bloom and save that one. 4 months is plenty of time.

Leslie

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planatus(6)

I would choose early pods for seed-saving purposes. The best seed will be produced by very vigorous, healthy plants rather than tired ones.

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ZachS. z5 Littleton, CO

As far as you critter damage goes, I wouldn't sweat. I had one that was rendered to a stick with only one or two little leaves after a hail storm last month, it has grown back to (almost) it's original size in just a week or two. As long as you have one good node left, it should recoup just fine!

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kathyb912_in (5a/5b, Central IN)

I've grown basil both in containers and in the ground, and have never had the issue you describe. It makes me curious if you've got something else growing on the deck. Do the two plants look the same? Photos would definitely help. Good luck with the transplanting. I think it will grow back just fine, despite those lousy critters!

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elisa_z5

I plant corn in early July in zone 5, for fall harvest. I would think that you'd do even better in your zone. I've also planted beans late like that for a fall crop. I would think that since you've got the number of days to harvest putting you well before frost, you'll be fine. Things will grow slower with the shorter days of late summer, though, so add some days to harvest time for your second crops.

You've made a good choice between beans and corn, with a nitrogen fixer preceeding a heavy feeder, and vice versa. But you probably knew that already :)

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annew21(7b NC)

I'm in North Carolina too (Triangle area) and I've had good luck with late plantings of beans. I have never had luck with corn because the cute little tree rates (also known as squirrels) always destroy them, so I can't give you any advice there.

The 65 days for the beans refers to when they start producing. They will continue to produce for some time. So I'm not sure you're going to be able to follow the beans with corn because it'll probably be too late in the season. Unless you rip the bean plants while they still have more to give.

-Anne

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I don't try for that last 3 inches of stem covering as I prefer to get fewer but larger potatoes rather than a slew of small ones.

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ZachS. z5 Littleton, CO

"Not everyone can go that deep in early spring...where rains are more frequent."

That is true. In some (rare) cases, our lack of water can be useful.

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

"All that has been added to the soil was a little peat and a ton of compost at the start of the season (our natural soil here is pretty much just clay). "

Sounds good to me.

Kevin

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yeah no problem there. I feared you might be hitting them heavy with Miracle Grow or something.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Did it actually go into the garden, into the area where the plants are growing? If so then, per their website FAQs, depending on the amount it will kill any broad leaf plants growing in the garden. Pulling and transplanting them won't save them. So all you can do is wait and see what dies and then replace it.

If it wasn't distributed into the garden itself, just around it then it shouldn't pose any problems that I know of. Had it been a liquid rather than a granular it would be a very different story.

Dave

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Dave2945

I can make you feel better. I mistakenly grabbed a bag of weed and feed fertilized at HD, thinking it was regular fertilizer. Then I used it to side dress everything in my vegetable garden. Luckily, most of the established plants weren't too affected, but I'm still seeing some impact to the peppers and onions. Just yesterday, I was looking at the types of herbicides in weed and feed and learned that residual effects are fairly short term for these herbicide types. I also re-learned that weed and feed fertilizers are a really poor product for many reasons and that Canada has banned them completely.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

No common ants don't attack plants but they will harvest/eat dying or rotting organic matter like dying leaves of lettuce laying on the ground. So if the lettuce is dying something else is causing it and the ants are just enjoying the buffet.

Wilted and cut off at the base sounds like cutworms.

Dave

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2ajsmama

Thanks Dave - I worry about cutworms with peppers and tomatoes, didn't realize they chopped lettuce too. What's the remedy (can't really fit a collar over these heads now)?

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glib(5.5)

In the end I did not have that many, and also in the last few years I have been eating far more root vegetables than in the past. I ate them all in a month, so I can vouch for one month in refrigerator type conditions (my garage, in a plastic tote, close to 100% humidity and below 40F).

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Slimy_Okra(2b)

Great, thanks! I should be able to finish them off in a month and I have four fridges :).

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Maxim1122

I understand my problem now. They're definitely stressed, I will start new peppers from seed right on the ground (hopefully my cat won't damage the seeds by waalking on them). And yes I have mulched quite a bit of organic compost as a fertilizer at the beginning of the season.

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fmart322(Z6SNJ)

Try chicken poop. It works for me.

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ediej1209(5 N Central OH)

OK, so counting days on the calendar, that puts it August 11 for 78 days. So that helps me to plan a little better. I don't have to put in for the exact dates off right now but I do have to let my boss know about when - so it will be sometime the 2nd week of August. I know what we have planted is probably not a big deal for most people - 4 30' rows, but for us old folks who move slower these days and working 12 hours a day by the time I add in my drive time, there is not enough time between when I get home and have to go to bed to do anything. Thus I will need a day or so to get it all picked and processed. Then I might need a vacation from my vacation to get rested up!!! :^)
Thanks all for your help.
Edie

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

Sweet corn can take either longer or shorter time than listed DTM. April plantings may take a week longer and June plantings can take a week less with really warm weather.

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